Every owner of an inflatable vessel sooner or later faces the need to modernize the standard equipment, and often the first victim of an upgrade becomes a standard seat. PVC-boatThe silk that comes with budget models is usually made of thin plywood or light alloy, which does not always meet the requirements of comfort and safety of avid anglers. Instability of construction, the risk of slipping in choppy conditions and the lack of ergonomics are the main reasons why many decide to make or purchase a new interior element.
The choice of material and design is not in a hurry, because the reliability of this unit directly depends on your safety on the water. pew Not only does it sit comfortably during the long wait for cool, but it also serves as an important element of body rigidity, especially on inflatable tubes. In this article, we will examine in detail all aspects of creating the perfect seat, from the choice between wood and composite to the nuances of the installation of the retainers.
Whether it's worth spending time making it yourself or buying a finished product in a store? The answer depends on your tool skills and the end result requirements. Homemade construction often beats factory counterparts for strength and adaptation to the specific needs of the owner, allowing you to integrate gear boxes or mounting under the sonar.
Requirements for construction and materials of manufacture
The first thing to consider when designing or buying is the weight of the structure, and the excess weight will have a negative impact on the load capacity and driving performance of the vessel, especially if you have a low-power engine installed. balance-sheet Between weight and reliability is a key choice: the material must be resistant to constant moisture, ultraviolet light and temperature changes.
The most popular material is traditionally marine plywood, which combines affordability and high mechanical strength. composite Or fiberglass, which is almost water-free and rotting, and aluminum profiles are also used, especially in collapsible structures where modularity and minimal weight are important.
⚠️ Note: The use of conventional construction plywood is strictly prohibited, as it will quickly dissipate and lose bearing capacity even with short-term contact with water.
The design should provide a reliable attachment to the sides, avoiding spontaneous displacement or falling overboard when rolling. Modern solutions often include not only the seat, but also functional elements such as hazelnuts or gear mounts. It is important that the ends of the product are carefully processed and do not have sharp edges that can damage. PVC fabric cylinders.
Comparison of materials: plywood, aluminum and composite
Material choice determines not only the life of a product, but also the complexity of its manufacture at home. FFS marine plywood is the gold standard because of its availability and the ability to process conventional carpentry tools, it is easy to paint, glue and drill, making it ideal for self-creation, although it requires quality finish protection.
Aluminum alloys like duraluminum offer a completely different level of performance: they are not afraid of water, corrosion (if there is an oxide film or anodizing) and mechanical shocks. However, working with metal requires a special tool for cutting and drilling, as well as the skills to connect parts, since simple welding can disrupt the structure of the alloy.
- 🌲 Sea plywood: High strength, easy to handle, requires regular care and coating with varnish or enamel.
- ⚓ Aluminum: Absolute moisture resistance, minimum weight, high price, complexity in home processing.
- 🛡️ Composite materials: Maximum durability, does not require maintenance, high cost, difficult to repair.
Composite materials and fiberglass represent the pinnacle of the evolution of materials for aquatic engineering, which allow for complex shapes, integrate cavities and are not susceptible to rotting, but making such a can yourself will require molds, resin, fiberglass and polymer skills, making this option more suitable for experienced craftsmen.
When comparing, you can't forget the tactile sensations and thermal conductivity, because metal in the sun can get very hot and cool in the cold, creating discomfort, while wood and composites retain a more neutral temperature, which is an important ergonomic factor if you plan to spend a lot of time on the water without special clothes.
Drawings and sizing calculations for different types of boats
The geometry of the seat depends on the width of the cockpit and the type of inflatable tubes of your boat. The standard width of an inflatable boat varies from 90 to 140 cm, so there is no universal size. Before starting work, you need to accurately measure the internal distance between the sides at the installation site, given that the cylinders can change their shape slightly when pumped.
The optimum width of the landing part itself is usually 25-30 cm, which provides sufficient comfort without excessive weight gain. The length should be such that the ends fall on cylinders or special stops with a margin of 2-3 cm on each side for reliability. The height of the installation also plays a role: too low a landing is uncomfortable for rowing, and too high reduces the stability of the center of gravity.
Formula for calculating the length of the stops
Stub length = (Boat width inside - Seat width) / 2 + 2 cm of reserve. This will ensure a symmetrical installation and reliable hook overboard.
To create a reliable design, it is recommended to use proven drawings, adapting them to their size. It is important to provide rounding of corners and edges to minimize the risk of tissue damage. If you make a composite can, you need to calculate the overhang of elements or the system of connections.
| Boat type (width) | Board length (mm) | Seat width (mm) | Material thickness (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90-100 cm | 860-880 | 240-260 | 12-15 |
| 110-120 cm | 1060-1080 | 260-280 | 15-18 |
| 130-140 cm | 1260-1280 | 280-300 | 18-21 |
| 150+cm | 1460+ | 300-320 | 21-24 |
When calculating, be sure to consider the thickness of the material, as it affects the final weight and dimensions. For wide boats (>130 cm), one board may not be enough to ensure stiffness, and additional ribs or the use of a thicker material will be required.
Step by step instructions: making a can of plywood
The fabrication process begins with the marking of a sheet of marine plywood according to previously taken standards. Use a coalbed and a pencil to apply clear cutting lines to avoid distortion. Cutting is best done with an electric jigsaw with a clean cutting file or a circular saw, which will ensure smooth edges without chipping.
After cutting the workpiece, you need to carefully treat all the ends and surfaces. Grinding begins with coarse-grained sandpaper and ends with zero to achieve smoothness. Pay special attention to the corners: they must be rounded with a radius of at least 5 mm, so as not to damage the surface. PVC material - A bottle by accident.
☑️ Tools for work
The protective coating is applied in several layers, with each subsequent layer being laid only after the previous one has completely dried out. You can use a yacht lacquer that creates a strong transparent film, or special enamels for wood. Plywood ends, as the most vulnerable place, are recommended to soak with oliph or special soil more thoroughly than planes.
The final step is to install fasteners, if they are designed, which can be metal corners cut into the end, or just belt-fixing holes, and the finished product must dry for at least 24 hours before first using it on water, so that the coating is fully polymerized.
⚠️ Note: Do not use water-based paints for plywood processing, as they do not provide sufficient waterproofing and are quickly washed away.
Modernization: installation of stops and fasteners
Just putting the board on cylinders is a temporary and unsafe solution, especially when driving for an outboard motor or in high winds. For reliable fixation, various types of stops are used that cling to the side and prevent the bank from slipping. The simplest option is wooden bars attached to the bottom of the board with glue and screws.
A more advanced solution is to use metal hooks or stainless steel corners that are embedded in the end of the board or attached to the bottom, providing a rigid hook. It is important that the metal elements are not sharp edges and are securely secured, as their loss can lead to a passenger falling overboard.
- 🔨 Wooden stops: Cheap, easy to do yourself, require regular glue checks.
- ⚙️ Metal brackets: High reliability, durability, more difficult to install, require accurate fit.
- 🎣 Combined variant: Wooden base with metallic linings to strengthen contact points.
When installing mounts, it is important to observe symmetry: if one stop is hooked stronger than the other, the board will skew, which will create discomfort and can damage the balloon. inflatable floor boats (BND) often use a system of belts or slings running under the bottom, which eliminates contact of rigid elements with the bottom of the boat.
For soft contact with the sides, use pieces of car camera or tight rubber glued to the inside of the stops, which will protect the fabric from rubbing.
Care, storage and security measures
Even the best quality can requires regular maintenance to maintain its properties. After every fishing or walk, the structure must be dried, especially if it is made of wood. Wet plywood left in a closed case is the ideal environment for the development of mold and fungus, which will quickly destroy the material.
Periodically check the condition of fasteners and paintwork. The appearance of chips or scratches is a signal for immediate repair, as moisture will penetrate into the structure of the material. Metal parts should be inspected for corrosion, even if they are made of stainless steel or aluminum.
It's better to keep the jar straightened or suspended to avoid deformation, if there's not enough space, you can put it on the edge, but without leaning on a thin edge, and winter storage should be done in a dry room at moderate temperatures, away from the heaters.
Regular drying and inspection of fasteners prolong the life of the bank 2-3 times and guarantee your safety on the water.
Safety is paramount: never use a seat with cracks or signs of rotting. There is no way to quickly replace a broken part on the water, and the consequences can be fatal. If you notice that the stops are cruising or the coating is swelling, repair immediately.
How often should I update the lacquer coating on a plywood can?
Depending on the intensity of use, the update is required every 1-2 seasons, and if you notice that the water has stopped rolling off the surface and began to soak up, forming dark spots, then it is time to remove the old layer and varnish again.
Can I use a PVC boat can on a metal boat?
Theoretically, if the dimensions are the same, but it is not advisable. PVC cans have specific stops for soft cylinders that may not be suitable for the hard side of a metal boat, and they are often lighter than metal is required.
How to replace marine plywood if it is not on sale?
A good alternative can be moisture-resistant plywood FC, treated with epoxy resin, or sheet plastic (PVC plastic) with a thickness of 10 mm. You can also use a furniture shield made of larch impregnated with oil.
Why is the seat on a puffed boat slipping?
This is due to the smooth surface of PVC and the lack of rigid fixation, solved by installing additional stops, using anti-slip mats or mounting the jar with belts to the rings on cylinders.