Operation of an inflatable vessel in difficult conditions requires not only durable material cylinders, but also additional means of protection. PVC boat armour It has become an indispensable accessory for those who often moor at concrete moorings, overcome shallow water with a shell or store a boat on a rocky shore, and ignoring this element of tooling can lead to mechanical damage to expensive PVC material and subsequent costly repairs.
The modern market offers many protection options that vary in the material of manufacture, method of fastening and degree of rigidity. Boat owners. Often faced with the dilemma of choosing a lightweight PVC tape or a more reliable composite material, understanding the physical and chemical properties of different types of armor will allow you to choose the best solution for your style of fishing or resting on the water.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the main types of protection, installation technologies and nuances of care. polymer It can be more effective than aluminum linings in certain situations, and how to properly prepare the surface before gluing, and a competent approach to the choice of accessories will prolong the life of your boat for long seasons.
Criteria for the choice of material for the protection of the bottom and sides
The first and most important parameter to choose is the material of the protective layer. PVC (polyvinyl chloride)It has excellent adhesion to the boat's core material, is elastic and does not create excess weight, but in extreme operating conditions, where there is a high risk of puncture with sharp objects, this may not be enough.
A more advanced solution is the use of composite materials, such as: PVC + PE (polyethylene) or Teflon-coated reinforced fabrics, which are highly wear-resistant and abrasion-resistant. Composite materials based on polyethylene have 3-4 times greater resistance to abrasive wear compared to conventional PVC. This makes them ideal for installation on the bottom of boats designed for planing over sandbanks.
Also worth considering is the thickness of the material. Standard armor has a thickness of 0.9 mm to 1.5 mm. Using too thick a layer on the sides can disrupt the geometry of the balloon during pumping, so moderation is important. For the bottom, on the contrary, the thicker the layer, the better protection from tar on the ground.
When choosing, also note the presence of surface texture: Smooth armor provides better sliding through the water, but can be slippery for passengers' feet. Riffled surface will improve grip, but will require more thorough cleaning of dirt after fishing.
Types of protection: from PVC tape to composites
The range of protective elements is large, and each type has its own application specifications, separation is not only in the material, but also in the form and location of installation, the right type of protection directly affects the performance and durability of the vessel.
The main types of protection available today to boaters:
- 🛡️ PVC tape - classic version, glued to the joints of cylinders and a timber, protecting against impacts on the piers.
- 🏗️ Composite armor - a multilayer material of high density, often used for complete gluing of the bottom ("carpets").
- ⚓ Aluminum linings rigid elements installed on the cheekbones or nose to protect against sharp stones.
- 🧱 Kevlar inserts - premium segment, providing maximum strength with minimal weight.
Special attention should be paid to the so-called soft armor, which is a special lining of foamed materials with a strong shell, which are often used to protect the sides from cuts with reeds or branches, they are not glued dead, but are fixed with Velcro or belts, which allows them to be removed for drying.
⚠️ Attention: Aluminum linings can not be used in places of constant bending of the balloon, since the metal can RUB the PVC fabric during deformation on the wave.
When choosing between different types, it is important to understand where the boat will be used most often. For quiet fishing on lakes with a gentle entrance to the water, a standard PVC tape is enough. For rafting on mountain rivers or frequent landings on unequipped shore, a comprehensive approach using composites is necessary.
Installation technology: preparation and gluing
The quality of the protection installation determines its effectiveness, even the most expensive material will unstuck in the season if the surface preparation technology is broken, the process requires accuracy, cleanliness and temperature control.
The first step is always degreasing. Use special solvents for PVC or regular acetone (with care not to damage the main material of the boat). The surface should be completely dry and clean. Dust, moisture or fat spots will reduce the adhesion of the adhesive to zero.
☑️ Preparation for the bonding of armor
The best way to apply the glue is to use a stiff bristles brush or a spatula, providing a uniform thin layer, and the glue is applied to both the adhesive surfaces, both on the armor itself and on the boat, and then wait until the time specified in the adhesive instructions (usually 10-20 minutes) until the stickiness disappears.
The surfaces are pressurized, and the ideal way to use a roller is to drive air bubbles from the center to the edges, and to activate the glue, it often requires heating with a building hair dryer to 60 to 80 degrees. Thermoactivation It significantly increases the strength of the connection, making it almost monolithic.
Complex shapes, like the bow or the curves of cylinders, require a special approach, where the armor often has to be heated and stretched to lie without folds, the folds will later become points of concentration of tension and can lead to detachment.
Protection of the timber and joints of cylinders
The pier is the protruding part of the structure that takes the brunt of the mooring, and this is where the scuffs and cuts are most common, and the installation of an extra ribbon on the pier is a mandatory procedure for any new boat.
The joints of cylinders (the joints of the cloth joints) are also vulnerable. Although modern seams are very good, the additional band of armor over the seam serves as a preventive measure, which prevents the stratification of the seam when a strong impact on a solid object.
When mounting protection on these areas, it is important to observe the overlap, the tape must cover the protected area with a margin of 2-3 centimeters on each side, this ensures reliable sealing of the edges and prevents water from entering the layer of armor.
| Protection zone | Recommended thickness | Type of material | Difficulty of installation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layer-bar | 1.2. - 1.5 mm | Tight PVC | Medium |
| Nose tip | 2.0 - 3.0 mm | Composite/Aluminum | High. |
| Bottom (carpets) | 1.5 - 2.5 mm | PVC + PE | High. |
| Jet joints of cylinders | 0.9. 1.2 mm | PVC | Low. |
Don't forget the corner elements. At the points where the hinge beam connects to the transom or the nose, special angle linings are often installed, and they prevent material from being bullied at maximum stress points.
Bottom reinforcement: carpets and stringers
The bottom of the PVC boat is the most aggressive, sand, seashells, snags and rocks all leave their mark, and special protective carpets or strips are used to protect this area, which are glued over the entire bottom area or only in places of contact with water when moving.
A popular solution is the installation stringer Stringers are longitudinal stiffness and protection along the zygomatic parts, not only conserving the material, but also improving hydrodynamics by directing the flow of water. Stringers are often made from a stiffer composite than the main armor.
When you paste the bottom, it's important to keep an eye out for air bubbles, and when you plane the water, the bubble can become a point of detachment, and a piece of armor can just come off, and roller roller roller roller quality is critical here.
Some boat models have removable protective carpets that are attached to luvers or Velcro straps, which is convenient because in winter or when stored in a garage, they can be removed, reducing the size and weight, but glued armor is more reliable against sand stuffed between the carpet and the bottom.
Care for armored areas and repairs
Having protection doesn't mean you can forget about the boat. Armor itself requires care. Mud, salt (if you walk on the sea) and fish scales can break down the adhesive layer over time. Regular freshwater washing is mandatory after each exit.
If you notice that the edge of the armor has started to recede, don't wait until half the sheet is unstuck. Prepare a small section, warm up with a hair dryer and roll with a roller. You can use remixes that come with a boat to repair small cuts on the armor itself.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use aggressive chemicals to clean your armor. Chlorine-containing products can make PVC brittle and cause microcracks.
Before winter storage, inspect all glued seams. If you find bloating, you need to cut through, dry them and re-glue them, and it is better to keep the boat in a straightened state or in a free roller, so that the places of the folds of armor do not form cavities.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put the armor on an already damaged section of the boat?
Yes, but first you need to seal the hole or cut, let the glue be fully polymerized (24 hours), and then stick a protective tape on top.
Does the armor affect the boat’s loading capacity?
Formally, the weight of the boat increases, which reduces the payload slightly, but in practice, the difference of 2-4 kg for an average boat is almost imperceptible and does not affect the safety of operation.
Which glue is best for installation?
It is best to use two-component polyurethane adhesives (e.g. Teknipol, Wurth) specially designed for PVC. They provide a seam that is not inferior in strength to the material itself.
Do I need to remove the reservation in winter?
No, glued armor is not necessary to remove and even harmful, as you can damage the main material of the boat when peeling.