Inflatable vessels always run the risk of damage to the hull, especially the lower part, and contact with sharp stones, shells, snags or simply rough sand on the shore inevitably leads to abrasion of the fabric and the appearance of microcracks. boat-bed It is becoming the preventive measure that allows you to significantly extend the life of the swimming means and maintain its tightness for many years.
Owners often underestimate the importance of additional protection, relying on the factory density of the material, but practice shows that a standard layer of 900-1100 g / m2 is not enough for rigid use. Quality armor not only protects from punctures, but also adds rigidity to the vessel, improving driving specifications.
In this article, we will take a closer look at all aspects of bottom protection, from the choice of materials to the final drying so you can do the job professionally at home. polyurethane tape It can be better than classic PVC, and how to properly prepare the glue to achieve a monolithic bond. Ignoring the nuances of technology can negate all efforts, so attention to detail is critical here.
Why you need a booking: analysis of wear
The main reason why it is required boat-armourAnd even if you don't pull a boat ashore every time, the small abrasive particles that fall between the bottom and the ground act like sandpaper, and over time, the top layer of the shield becomes thinner, opening the way for water to the reinforcement scaffold, which leads to stratification and loss of strength.
Protection is especially relevant for those who often walk in shallow water or moor near unequipped shores. The most wear is the nose and the area under the sleigh. This is where the pressure and friction concentration is maximum, and the extra lining allows you to take the impact on yourself, while maintaining the integrity of the main cylinder.
In addition to mechanical protection, the extra layer improves hydrodynamics by smoothing out the small bumps and folds that form during assembly, which is especially important for high-speed models, where every gram of resistance affects fuel consumption and speed. reservation Makes the bottom smoother and resistant to cuts.
And thermal protection is also important. A dark layer of armor glued to a light cloth can create a thermos effect, protecting the air inside the cylinders from overheating in the sun, although it is important not to overdo it with thickness to avoid upsetting the balance of buoyancy.
Selection of material for bottom protection
Market for materials boat-protection pvt The traditional solution is to use strips of the same fabric that the boat itself is made of, usually PVC with a density of 900-1100 g/m2, which ensures a perfect match between temperature expansion and elasticity.
However, specialized polyurethane (PU) tapes and composite materials are gaining popularity, and they are more durable and often have a textured surface that improves soil adhesion when pulled out. Polyurethane linings It is more difficult to glue due to chemical inertia, but the result is worth it.
When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to its thickness. Too thick armor will make the boat heavy and stiff, which will make it difficult to pack into a bag. The optimal is the thickness of the additional layer within 1.5-3 mm. Also worth considering the color: light colors heat less, but get dirty faster, dark ones are more practical in terms of dirt, but hotter in the sun.
To reinforce critical areas, such as the bilge and zygomatic parts, often use a combined approach, such as the main area is covered with a thin tape, and the most vulnerable areas are reinforced by additional overlaps of denser material. integrated approach It guarantees maximum reliability.
Before buying armor material, be sure to check its compatibility with glue. Some polyurethane tapes require special surface activators, without which the glue simply will not catch.
Necessary tools and preparation of glue
Quality. PVC 80 percent depends on surface preparation and the right adhesive composition, you need a specialty polyurethane adhesive specifically for PVC materials, and you can't use universal adhesives or "moments" because they don't provide a flexible seam and can break down tissue.
Besides glue, you'll need a degreasing agent. It's best to use acetone or a special degreasing agent for PVC. Alcohol or gasoline "Kalosha" can leave a greasy film or not clean the surface well enough, which will lead to flaking of the armor in the future. Also prepare a brush (preferably a hard flute), roller and hair dryer.
The process of preparing the glue requires care. If you use a two-component composition, strictly follow the proportions specified by the manufacturer. Single-component adhesives often require the addition of a hardener (usually 5-10% of the volume) to improve the heat resistance of the seam. The mixture must be carefully mixed and allowed to stand.
It's important to remember the lifespan of the glue. Once you mix the components, you have a limited time (usually 4 to 8 hours) during which the glue retains its properties, so it doesn't make sense to cook a large portion of the glue in the backup. The consistency of glue It should be so that it is easily applied with a brush, but does not drain from vertical surfaces.
☑️ Preparation for gluing
Application technology: step-by-step instructions
The process boat-guard It requires cleanliness, dryness and a certain temperature in the room, the optimal temperature range is 15 to 25 degrees Celsius, and humidity also plays a role: in wet weather, the glue may polymerize improperly, bubbles or cloudy spots.
First, you need to mark the installation site and degrease the surface. Apply the first layer of glue on both glued surfaces (boat bottom and the inside of the armor) and let it dry until it sticks (usually 15-20 minutes), then apply a second layer, which is also dried, but to a state where the glue stops sticking to the fingers, but retains stickiness.
The key is to activate the adhesive with a temperature: heat the glued surfaces with a building hair dryer to 50-60 degrees. Be careful: overheating PVC above 80 degrees can cause tissue to deform. After heating, carefully connect the surfaces from the center or one of the edges, and carefully roll with a roller, expelling air.
Pay special attention to the edges of the linings. They must be tightly pressed and not be jagged, otherwise the water will flow under the armor, causing stratification. If you glue large areas, use the "envelope" method or glue in parts to avoid grabbing the glue ahead of time. Ride-up This is a process that cannot be ignored, the strength of the seam depends on the strength of the pressing force.
What to do if bubbles form?
If the bubble is small and it's inside the armor field, you can try to puncture it with a thin needle and roll it around. If the bubble is at the edge, it's better to peel the edge off carefully, warm it up with a hair dryer and re-glue it. Large bubbles under the center of the large lining are almost impossible to remove without opening, so it's better to glue the entire sheet.
Comparison of materials for booking
To make it easier for you to choose, we have compiled a comparative table of the main materials used to protect the bottom, each with its own application and price range.
| Materials | Wear resistance | Difficulty of sticker | Weight. | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PVC fabric (900 g/m2) | Medium | Low. | Medium. | Low. |
| PVC fabric (1100 g/m2) | High. | Low. | Highly | Medium |
| Polyurethane (PU) | Very high. | High. | Low. | High. |
| Rubber tape | High. | Medium | Highly | Medium |
As you can see from the table, PVC It remains the most affordable and easy to work option, ideal for self-repair in the garage. Polyurethane Professionals and owners of expensive boats are choosing to sacrifice ease of installation for durability, and rubber bands are becoming a thing of the past, giving way to more modern composites.
The color of the material is also important to consider when choosing: grey armor is less noticeable on gray boats, but can stand out on green or sand boats; white overhead elements look aesthetically pleasing but quickly lose their appearance; dark blue or black options are the most practical in terms of masking dirt.
For a self-made first attempt at booking, it is better to choose PVC fabric of the same density as the boat itself - this minimizes the risk of errors when gluing due to the difference in the expansion coefficients of materials.
Armored bottom care
After successful completion of the work, boat-bookingIt is important to properly care for the updated bottom, although the material has become stronger, it still requires careful treatment, regularly wash the bottom with clean water after each foray, especially if the boat was used in salt water or water with a high content of silt.
Keep the boat with pasted armor should be spread out or in a free roller, avoiding sharp rims at the junction of the main material and the lining. Sharp inflections can lead to cracks in the adhesive layer. Temperature conditions Storage is also important: Do not leave the boat in the cold or in the scorching sun unnecessarily.
Periodically, at least once a season, check the condition of the edges of the linings. If you notice that somewhere the armor has begun to move, immediately make local repairs. You just need to warm the edges with a hairdryer and press the load hard. Timely elimination of minor defects will prevent water from entering the layer of protection.
Don't use aggressive chemistry or hard brushes to clean the bottom. Abrasive particles can scratch even the strongest polyurethane. The best remedy is a soft sponge and warm soapy water. These simple rules will allow your boat to last for decades.
Can I put the armor on a wet boat?
Absolutely not. Even minimal surface humidity or high humidity (fog, rain) will cause the glue to not get caught, but to form a whitish coating, and work is possible only in a dry, ventilated room.
How long does the glue dry after the armor sticker?
The polyurethane glue takes 24 to 72 hours to fully polymerize, depending on temperature and humidity, and although the boat can be touched in a day, it is recommended that the boat be fully loaded and launched no earlier than three days after completion.
Do I need to clean the surface with sandpaper?
It is not recommended to clean the PVC fabric with sandpaper itself, because it will damage the protective lacquer layer, it is enough to degrease thoroughly, you can only smoke if you glue the armor on an existing old layer of glue or on a cleaned repair site.
Can I put the reservation in the winter in an unheated garage?
No, temperatures below 15 degrees are critical for the chemical reaction of the adhesive. The adhesive simply does not activate or will dry for weeks without gaining strength. If the garage is unheated, use a heat gun to warm the room and the boat itself for a few hours before work begins.
Does armor affect the speed of the boat?
With the right application and use of thin materials (up to 2 mm), the impact on speed is minimal and almost invisible. However, if you stick too thick a layer of rubber or make a lot of folds, the hydrodynamics will deteriorate and the boat will become harder to operate.
⚠️ Attention: When working with glue and degreasing, be sure to use a respirator and gloves. solvent vapors are toxic, and getting glue on the skin can cause a severe chemical burn or allergic reaction. Only work in a well-ventilated room.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use open fire or open-spiral heating appliances near the glue site. The glue and degreasing fumes ignite and can cause an explosion or fire.