Operating an inflatable vessel in real-world conditions often becomes a test of strength. When you go out on the water, you can never be sure that you will find only clean water. Snags, sharp shells, roots sticking out of the water, rocky banks and random debris are all real threats to the water. cylinders And especially for the bottom of your boat.
A puncture on the water is not just a nuisance, it is a risk to the life of the crew and the loss of expensive property, which is why the installation of additional protection, which in the environment of water engines is called "armor" or "cail", becomes a priority for any owner. PVC boatsThis element of tuning allows you to feel confident even in the most difficult waters.
In this article, we will discuss in detail what protection is made of, how to choose the best option for your budget and operating conditions, and also consider the nuances of self-assembly. bottom-up It extends the life of the boat several times.
Why do you need armor on the boat and what it protects from?
The main function of booking is to take on a mechanical force, so when you dock on an unequipped shore or drag a boat through shallow water, it's the outer layer that takes the hit. woven-cord balloon, which over time leads to the stratification of the material and loss of leakage.
And the armor also acts as a damper when it hits underwater obstacles at speed, and floating islands or sunken logs can cause fatal damage, but a layer of durable material extinguishes the impact energy, distributing it over a larger area, and this is especially true for boats used for fishing from the sea. throw Inaccessible places.
⚠️ Attention: Even the thickest armor doesn't make the boat completely invulnerable. Avoid speeding through areas with sharp stones or metal debris, as kinetic energy can penetrate any reasonable layer of protection.
It's important to understand that protection is not just from the bottom, but also from the side of berths, tree branches or other boats, and that's why owners often book comprehensive reservations, covering the most vulnerable areas: the bow, the water contact spot and the trench.
Booking materials: PVC, aluminum or rubber?
The choice of material is the first and most important step, and there are several major options on the market, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. PVC increased density (usually 700-900 g / m2).
This material is chemically identical to the material of the boat itself, which provides perfect adhesion when glued together, is elastic, does not rust and is easily repaired in the field, but PVC has a strength limit: a sharp stone at high speed can cut through it.
A more exotic but effective option is aluminum-ribbon Metal provides protection against the most serious mechanical damage, but here lies the danger: metal is heavier than water and harder than fabric, and if you don't fit the edges of aluminum, you can wipe the very fabric of the boat.
Comparison of material density
The density of the boat fabric is usually 750-850 g/m2. PVC armor should be at least 900 g/m2, preferably 1100 g/m2 for maximum efficiency. Aluminum is lighter, but requires perfect edge processing.
Rubber linings are a classic from the days of inflatable boats. They're cheap and simple, but modern glue doesn't hold PVC rubber well, so it's considered outdated and less reliable than using it. reinforced.
Structural features: stringer, zygomatic ribbon and heel
Armor is not always a single sheet. Often, protection is made up of several elements, each covering a particular vulnerable area, and we'll look at the basic structural elements that you might encounter when ordering or making protection.
A boulder ribbon (or simply a "cheekbone") is a strip of material pasted along the transition from side to bottom, which takes the maximum load when hitting the wave and rubbing against the ground, and it is the cheekbone that often suffers first when dragging a boat on the sand.
Stringers are longitudinal linings that run all the way down the bottom, and they create a kind of "rail" that takes the main hit, and between the stringers, the fabric of the boat remains unprotected, but the boat becomes lighter than with a solid booking, and better managed.
- 🛡️ All armor. - covers the entire bottom, maximum protection, but a large weight.
- 🛡️ Tape protection Protects only contact lines, easier and cheaper.
- 🛡️ Nasal lining - strengthens only the forehead, where punctures most often occur.
- 🛡️ Tranza protection - protects the back from impacts when pulling ashore.
The optimal solution for most anglers is a combination of solid protection in the bow and stringers in the stern, which balances weight and protection.
Instructions for installing protection yourself
If you choose not to order a solution, but to make your own armor, you need to be carefully prepared. PVC gluing requires cleanliness, the right temperature and quality materials. Mistakes are unacceptable, because it will be difficult to redo.
The first thing you need to do is to degrease the surface of the boat and the inside of the armor plate, and you need to use acetone or a special degreasing agent, and the surface has to be completely dry and clean, otherwise the glue will not penetrate the structure of the material.
Then you put the first layer of glue on, let it dry to a sticky state (usually 15-20 minutes, depending on the brand of glue), and then you put the second layer on, and the parts come together, and you drive out all the air bubbles by rolling the roller from the center to the edges.
☑️ Checklist before gluing
Pay special attention to the edges of the armor plate, they should be carefully grated and preferably smeared with a sealant or an additional layer of glue to prevent water from flowing under the armor. mold And the adhesive suture breaks down.
The effect of armor on driving and weight specifications
The installation of protection inevitably leads to an increase in the weight of the vessel. The weight of the additional layer of PVC can be from 2 to 5 kg depending on the area of coverage. For inflatable boats, which often have to be carried by hand, this is a significant parameter.
Besides weight, the fluid dynamics also change, the smooth bottom has better slip, the glued elements, especially if they have steps or uneven edges, create additional resistance to water, which can lead to a slight decrease in maximum speed and increase fuel consumption.
| Type of protection | Weight gain (kg) | Impact on speed | Difficulty of installation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Continuous (PVC 900) | +3.5 ... +4.5 | Decrease of 2-4 km/h | High. |
| Stringer (tapes) | +1.0 ... +1.5 | Decrease of 0-1 km/h | Medium |
| Nasal lining | +0.5 ... +0.8 | No change. | Low. |
| Aluminum tape | +0.3 ... +0.5 | No change. | Medium |
But the loss of speed is often offset by psychological comfort: you can go low-gas where you would have to shut down the engine and drag the boat by hand without armour, and for many fishermen, this tradeoff is the only true one.
Armored bottom care and repair
An armored boat requires the same care as a regular boat, but with some nuances: After every fishing, you need to thoroughly wash away the sand and dirt, especially from under the edges of the armor plates, and if the sand stays there, it will work as an abrasive, rubbing the fabric when blown-up.
Keep a boat with a sticker of armor is better in straightened condition or rolled up in large rollers. Sharp inflections in the places of the glued elements can lead to the formation of cracks in the adhesive seam. In winter, it is desirable to periodically straighten the vessel.
⚠️ Attention: Never use an open flame or a building hair dryer at maximum power to straighten the folds in armored areas. Local overheating can layer the multilayered PVC structure.
In case of damage to the armor itself (the appearance of a through hole), repair is carried out by the standard method: patching of the same material. The main thing is to ensure that the damage is covered by at least 3-5 cm from all sides.
Use transparent PVC for the top layer repairs on colored boats to maintain an aesthetic look, or take the material tone with the main fabric.
Should I order the factory armor or do it myself?
The factory armor installed by the boat manufacturer is usually of high quality: it uses industrial cutting, rollers for rolling and often two-component adhesives that are stronger than one-component home.
Self-manufactured products can save up to 50 percent of the cost and customized protection, but the risk is not high enough to make them unpatched areas, air bubbles or "tongues" of the material can cause the armor to come off the water, creating sailing or catching a snag.
If you don't have PVC experience and special tools (Teflon roller, temperature-adjusted hair dryer, clamping rollers), it's better to entrust this work to professionals or buy a boat already with protection installed.
How long does the PVC glue dry when mounting armor?
The drying time depends on temperature and humidity. At 20°C and normal humidity, the first layer dries for 15-20 minutes, the second one for 5-10 minutes, the complete polymerization of the seam takes 24 to 72 hours, during which time the boat cannot be inflated and operated.
Can I put armor on an already assembled inflated boat?
Absolutely not. Welding is done only on deflated, flat areas, and inflating the boat during or immediately after gluing will cause the glue seam to rupture due to stretching of the fabric.
Does the armor affect the manufacturer’s warranty?
If you glue the armor yourself and make a mistake (for example, overheating the fabric with a hairdryer), the warranty is canceled.
Do I need to book a boat for large reservoirs?
At greater depths, the risk of encountering snags is less, but the risk of running into floating debris or sharp objects is higher due to the speed of travel.