White plaque on the body, screw or legs of an outboard motor is a problem that every second boater faces, and it not only spoils the appearance of the equipment, but can lead to the development of a new engine. metal-corrosionIt's a very important issue for motor owners who are in the process of driving. seawater Or hard freshwater, where salts and minerals settle on surfaces literally after each exit.

In this article, we will discuss 7 Working Ways to Clean Up From household products to occupational chemistry, and how to prevent future plaque, you'll learn what errors lead to accelerated sedimentation. brand (for example, Mercury, Yamaha, Quick Silver) recommended by manufacturers, and why some "folk" methods can harm your engine.

Spoiler: use of acetic acid in concentrations above 9% can destroy the anodic coatings and rubber seals after 3-4 treatmentsBut everything in order.

Why there is a white coating: 3 main reasons

Before we clean it, it's important to understand the nature of the sediments. White plaque isn't always the same thing. It can consist of:

  • 🧂 Calcium salts and magnesium - typical "lime" plaque formed by the evaporation of hard fresh water (for example, in lakes or rivers with a high content of minerals).
  • 🌊 sea salt Sodium chloride, which crystallizes after seawater has dried, is particularly aggressive for aluminum parts.
  • ⚡ Electrochemical corrosion products Metal oxides that occur when different alloys (e.g. aluminum and steel) come into contact in salt water.

Manufacturers of motors, such as Honda Marine or SuzukiIn the instructions for use, it is expressly stated: 90% of cases of intensive raid are associated with non-compliance with the rules of washing after getting on the waterFor example, if you don't rinse your engine with fresh water after a sea fishing trip, the salt begins to crystallize after 2-3 hours.

Another factor. monstrousIf you leave the engine wet for the winter, the minerals in the water will react with the metal, forming hard-to-remove deposits.

  • 🔧 Water pump and its impeller
  • 🌀 Spin rotor blades
  • 🔗 Connecting studs and anode plates
📊 Where do you use the motor more often?
In fresh water (river, lake)
In seawater
In a salt lake (for example, Baskunchak)
Alternately in different types of water bodies

What is dangerous white plaque: consequences for the engine

Many owners treat plaque as a cosmetic problem, but that's a mistake.

Type of damage Reason. Effects of consequences
Corrosion of aluminum parts Salt and minerals destroy the protective oxide layer The appearance of “point” corrosion, thinning of the metal, the risk of cracks
Clogging of water channels Deposition narrows the lumen in the cooling system Overheating of the engine, power reduction, the risk of jamming
Wear of the propeller The raid disrupts the balancing of the blades Vibrations, drop in efficiency, accelerated wear of bearings
Damage to the anodes Salt accelerates electrochemical reactions Premature destruction of anodes, corrosion of the body

Especially critical for motors with water-coolingFor example, in engines. Mercury 15-30 hp The water pump is located at the bottom of the leg, and if the impeller gets clogged with sediment, the fluid is stopped circulating. motor-off (Some models have a thermal sensor at +90°C.)

⚠️ Attention: If the attack appeared inside the exhaust tract (for example, on the Yamaha F25Removal of the gaskets requires disassembly of the engine, self-cleaning without experience can damage the gaskets or sensors.

7 Ways to Clean outboard motors from White Raid

The choice of method depends on the degree of contamination, material parts and available tools, and we have arranged the methods from the most gentle to aggressive (and potentially dangerous if used incorrectly).

1. Freshwater flushing (prevention and light pollution)

It's not so much cleaning as raid-warningAfter each release,

Rinse the engine with fresh water within 30 minutes after |

Use a weak pressure (not higher than 2 bar) so as not to damage the anodes |

Direct the jet into water-hole cleaning channels |

Dry the motor in air or compressed air (especially electrical contacts)

Use it for convenience. specialty (for example, Flushing Attachment from Mercury) which connect to the garden hose and supply water directly to the cooling system.

Vinegar solution (for lime plaque)

Suitable for aluminum and steel It's a recipe, but it's a little bit of a precaution.

  • 🍶 Mix 1 part table cider vinegar (9%) s 3 parts water.
  • 🧽 Apply the solution with a sponge or sprayer on contaminated areas.
  • ⏳ Leave for 15-20 minutes (no longer!).
  • 🚿 Wash it with water and dry it.
⚠️ Attention: Vinegar is eating away zinc anodes And then you have to check the integrity of the anodes, and if they're loose, replace them.

Citric acid (for persistent deposits)

More aggressive, but effective, way of doing things.

  1. Prepare the solution: 50 g citric acid per 1 liter of warm water.
  2. Load removable parts (screw, anodes) in solution for 30-40 minutes.
  3. For non-removable parts, use a brush or sprayer.
  4. Wash thoroughly with water and apply a protective coating (for example, CRC Marine Grease).

Citric acid is better than vinegar because it doesn't smell bad and it's less aggressive to aluminum. Do not use it for motors with magnesium anodes. - it will accelerate their destruction.

4. Special cleaners (for professional cleaning)

Manufacturers of outboard motors recommend using branded funds:

  • 🧴 Mercury Quickleen It removes salt, plaque and oil pollution, and it's suitable for all types of motors.
  • 🧴 Yamaha Ring Free Cleans the cooling system and prevents corrosion.
  • 🧴 Star brite Salt Off spray for the rapid removal of sea salt.

The advantage of these products is that they do not damage the anodes and seals, and also contain corrosion inhibitors. Quickleen It can even be used for cleaning. waterway without the risk of scoring them.

💡

Before using professional cleaners, check their compatibility with the material of your motor. For example, hydrochloric acid products are strictly prohibited for aluminum parts.

5. Mechanical cleaning (for a thick layer of plaque)

If the deposits are not amenable to chemistry, you will have to use them. soft-skinned:

  • 🧽 Plastic scrapers - for screws and housings (do not scratch metal).
  • 🧼 Copper sponge - for persistent stains on aluminum.
  • 🔧 Nylon brushes - for cleaning the water intake grids.

Never use it. sandpaper They break the protective layer of the metal, accelerating corrosion. Suzuki DF9.9) paste polishing is permissible GOIBut only after the complete removal of the attack.

6. Electrolytic cleaning (for advanced cases)

The method is for experienced users.

  • 🔋 Direct current source (charger at 12V).
  • ⚡ Stainless steel anode (you can use an old spoon).
  • 🧪 Soda solution (1 tbsp. spoon per 1 liter of water).

Scheme:

  1. Submerge the anode and the contaminated part in the solution (without touching each other).
  2. Connect the "+" to the anode, the "-" to the detail.
  3. Turn on the current for 10-15 minutes. The plaque will start to peel off.
⚠️ Attention: This method is suitable only for metalwork Never use it on the whole engine, you're at risk of short circuit.

7. Sandblasting (extreme case)

Used for removal perennial It requires special equipment and skills, suitable for:

  • 🛠️ Restore the appearance of old engines.
  • 🔧 Cleaning of paddle shafts and large aluminum parts.

After the sandblasting, be sure to apply cover (for example, Alodine aluminum Zinc Chromate Primer Without protection, the refined metal will start to rust in a few days.

💡

For motors with antifriction coatings (e.g., Tohatsu MFS) sandblasting is prohibited, as it breaks down a special layer which reduces friction.

What not to do when cleaning the engine

Some "advice" from the Internet can do more harm than good.

  • 🚫 Household detergents (for example, Domestos or Cillit) - they contain chlorine, which destroys aluminum and rubber.
  • 🚫 Coca-Cola or Pepsi Despite the myths, orthophosphoric acid in their composition is too weak for plaque, but strong enough to damage the paint coating.
  • 🚫 Heating parts with a soldering lamp This leads to deformation of aluminum and destruction of seals.
  • 🚫 Use of gasoline or kerosene They dissolve the lubricant in bearings and oils.

You also shouldn’t clean the engine. high-pressure (e.g. apparatus) KärcherA water jet at a pressure of 100+ bar may:

  • 💦 Wash the grease from the water pump bearings.
  • 💦 Damage anodes and anticorrosion coatings.
  • 💦 Drive water into electrical connectors (on electronically controlled motors, for example) Honda BF20D).

How to prevent the appearance of plaque: 5 rules of prevention

The best way to fight this is to keep it out of the way.

  1. Rinse the engine after each exit. Even if you’ve been in fresh water, it contains minerals that crystallize over time.
  2. Use protective sprays. After washing, apply the type of products CRC 6-56 or WD-40 Specialist Marine They create a film that repels water and salt.
  3. Watch for the anodes. Change them every 50 to 100 hours or when you wear them visually. Weared anodes accelerate corrosion.
  4. Keep the engine right. In the off-season, remove the propeller, clean it and lubricate it. Store the motor in a dry, ventilated room, away from batteries and heaters.
  5. Check the water pump. If it's not working properly, the engine overheats, and the air strikes faster. Mercury 9.9 and similar models of the pump can be checked by running the motor on idle - the stream of water from the control hole should be smooth and strong.

For motors operated in sea water, it is recommended mount (for example, Saltwater Flush KitIt allows you to wash the engine with fresh water on the go without stopping.

What if the attack appeared inside the cooling system?

If the washing does not help, and the engine overheats, you will need to disassemble and clean the water channels with a special ruffle or chemistry (for example, Barnacle BusterOn some models (e.g., Yamaha F15) to do this, you need to remove the bottom casing. Without experience, it is better to contact the service - incorrect assembly can lead to leaks.

FAQ: Frequent questions about white plaque on motors

Can hydrochloric acid be used for cleaning?

Hydrochloric acid reacts aggressively with aluminum, causing it to cause a severe reaction. irreversibleIt's only suitable for cleaning. steely parts (for example, shafts), and then in diluted form (1:10 with water) and with subsequent neutralization with soda.

How to clean the plaque from plastic parts of the engine?

For plastics (e.g., casings) Tohatsu or control knobs) use soap-solution or specialized cleaners of the type Star brite Plastic CleanerAbrasives and acids will damage the surface, making it cloudy.

Why did the vinegar clean again a week later?

You probably haven't deleted it. metal-poreAfter vinegar treatment, wash the part. distilled And dry it with compressed air, and also check if there's any salt left on the surface of the crystals, which could be the center of a new raid.

Do I need to remove the screw for cleaning?

It is easier to clean the removable screw separately (for example, by soaking in citric acid), without risking damage to the engine seals. Parsun T2.6) use soft brushes and sprays.

How often should the engine be cleaned of the raid?

Depends on the operating conditions:

  • 🌊 Sea water: Cleaning after each exit + deep washing once a month.
  • 💧 Hard fresh water: Cleaning every 2-3 exits.
  • 🏞️ Soft fresh water: sufficient washing after operation and seasonal cleaning.