The carbon deposits in the internal combustion engine are an inevitable operating satellite that over time becomes a serious problem for any car owner: solid carbon deposits are deposited on the pistons, combustion chamber walls, valves and, most critically, clog oil and compression rings, resulting in loss of power, increased oil and fuel consumption, and difficult start-up, especially in the cold season.
Fortunately, modern autochemistry allows you to solve this problem without major repairs and dismantling of the unit. Decoxing This is the name of the cleaning procedure, which is able to return the engine to factory parameters if it is done correctly and in a timely manner, and in this article we will discuss how to clean the engine from the swell from the inside without understanding what means actually work and how not to harm the engine in the pursuit of cleanliness.
Ignoring the problem can lead to rings becoming stale when they lose mobility and stop performing their function of removing heat and sealing the cylinder. The engine starts to "eat" oil in liters, and thick gray smoke pours out of the exhaust pipe. However, it is early to panic: in many cases, it is chemical cleaning carried out using the right technology that helps.
Causes of the formation of sodium and its effect on the resource of the motor
The main cause of solid deposits is the combustion of poor-quality fuel and engine oil. When hydrocarbons are not completely burned, they form a viscous substance that, under the influence of high temperatures, turns into coke, especially short trips when the engine does not have time to warm up to operating temperature, and low-speed operating modes.
Nagar acts as a thermal insulator, disrupting normal heat transfer in the combustion chamber, which leads to local overheating of the parts of the cylinder-piston group (CPG). Thermal load It grows, which can cause detonation and even burnout of the valves or the piston, and the narrowing of the channels for gas removal increases the risk of calyl ignition.
The effect of the deposits on the mechanical parts of the engine is also devastating: clogged rings lose elasticity and mobility, oil ceases to be efficiently removed from the cylinder walls, burns with the fuel and forms even more soda, a vicious circle occurs. The increase in gaps and bullies on the walls of cylinders is a direct consequence of working with coked rings.
⚠️ Attention: Using oil with expired shelf life or low alkaline properties accelerates the formation of lacquer deposits several times. Change the oil strictly according to the regulations, and in severe conditions of use - more often.
It's worth noting that some engine designs are more prone to gas injection, such as direct-injection engines or turbocharged units often require more frequent prevention. How to clean the engine from the inside without disassemblingTo extend the life of an expensive node.
Types of tools for decoding: comparison of effectiveness
The autochemical market offers many solutions, but they can all be divided into several major groups according to their operating principle and chemical composition, depending on the degree of contamination and engine condition, and not all drugs are equally effective against old coke.
The first group is solvent They're designed to be hard-cooked when the rings are already in place, and they're poured directly into the cylinders through candle holes for a long time, and they can soften even the fossilized scoop.
The second group is soft cleaners, which are added to motor oil 100 to 200 kilometers before it's replaced, and they work delicately, gradually washing the sediments and removing them through the lubrication system. The third group is cleaners added to the fuel, which mainly affect the valves and the combustion chamber, but do not help with the formation of the rings.
To achieve maximum results, a combination method is often used, first using a soft wash of oil, then performing a hard decogging of the cylinders, and after changing the oil, adding a cleaner to the fuel, which allows you to attack the charcoal from all sides.
| Type of instrument | Method of application | Effectiveness against rings | Time of exposure |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aggressive chemistry | In the cylinders. | High. | 1-24 hours. |
| Oil flushing | In the engine crankcase | Medium | 50-200 km of run |
| Fuel cleaner | In the gas tank. | Low. | On a full tank. |
| Dimexide (popular) | In the cylinders. | Tall (controversial) | 1-4 hours |
When choosing a drug, it is important to pay attention to compatibility with engine materials. Aggressive chemistry can damage rubber seals, glands and even pistons if you over-contain the composition. Always read the manufacturer's instructions before buying.
Preparatory stage: diagnosis and warming up
Before you put aggressive chemistry inside the engine, you need to make sure that the procedure is appropriate and prepare the unit. Blind decoking may not work if the problem is mechanical wear and tear, not pollution. diagnostics.
Measure the compression in all cylinders. If the difference between cylinders is large or the compression is critically low, this may indicate the occurrence of rings, and it is also worthwhile to perform an endoscopy of the cylinders, if there is such a possibility, to visually assess the condition of the coar on the pistons and walls.
The cleaning procedure starts with the engine warming up. The cold metal has other thermal gaps, and getting cold chemistry on the hot walls (or vice versa) can cause deformation. Warm up the engine to operating temperature so that the pistons expand and take up their working position.
☑️ Checklist before decoction
After heating up, the engine is jammed and the spark plugs (or nozzles, depending on the design) are twisted, which is necessary to access the combustion chamber. It is important to check the condition of the candles immediately after twisting them: the presence of a black oily coating confirms the problems with the CNG.
At this point, you can spin the starter several times to remove the oil residue from the cylinders, which will increase the efficiency of the decoxer, since he will contact directly with the loot, rather than swimming in an oil bath.
Hard decoding technology: step-by-step instructions
The most effective way, How to clean the engine from the inside without disassembling This is a method of pouring a special liquid directly into the cylinders, which allows you to dissolve the soda where it is most dangerous: on the rings and bottom of the piston, a process that requires care and safety.
First, through the syringe and tube, fill the recommended amount of the chemical manufacturer in each cylinder. Usually it is 30-50 ml per cylinder for inline engines. After filling, spin the candles back (you can old or special process) and leave the engine alone.
Exposure time varies from 1 hour to day, depending on the degree of contamination and type of product. Periodically, every 15-20 minutes, it is recommended to turn the crankshaft with the starter several times (pre-twisting the candles or turning off the coils) so that the liquid penetrates deeper into the joints of the rings.
⚠️ Attention: When rotating with a chemically-drenched starter, the ignition system must be turned off so that the decoxer's vapor does not ignite, and also make sure that the liquid does not get onto rubber parts under the hood.
After aging, the candles are twisted again, and now you have to remove the diluted dirt from the cylinders, and then you start again for a few seconds, after plugging the candle holes with a rag, to throw the remaining liquid and soak through the candle holes.
What to do if the liquid does not go away?
If the liquid in the cylinder does not leave after decoking or goes away very slowly, perhaps the rings are coked dead, in which case the procedure can be repeated by increasing the exposure time, or try the "rocking" method - frequent short scrolls with the starter.">If the liquid does not leave, perhaps the rings are coked dead. Repeat the procedure or increase the exposure time.
The final step is assembly and start. Roll in new candles, pour fresh engine oil (the old one can not be used, because it got the chemistry and washed away dirt). Start the engine: at first there will be strong white smoke and smell bad - this burns out the remnants of chemistry and soda.
Soft oiling and oil washing
If the mileage since the last oil change is small and symptoms are just beginning to show, you can use the soft-coking method, which is safer for osteoils and seals, since the concentration of active substances is lower.
The essence of the method is to add a special preparation to the engine oil 100-200 km before the scheduled replacement. The engine is operated as usual, but the chemistry gradually softens the deposits. It is important during this period not to give high loads and not to raise the speed above 3000-4000 rpm.
The advantage of this approach is that the softened soda is washed away by the flow of oil and is delayed by the filter, but there is a risk that if there is a lot of deposits, they can fall off in large pieces and clog the oil channels or the reduction valve.
So after a rinse, you have to replace the oil filter, and you also want to flush the engine with a cheap flush oil before you pour a new quality product, which ensures that the suspension of dirt is removed from the lubrication system.
Soft decoking is good as a preventive measure, and you can do it every 10,000 to 15,000 kilometers to keep the engine clean and prevent critical coking.
Folk methods: Dimexide and kerosene
On the Internet you can often find advice to use a pharmacy drug dimexide It's a mixture of kerosene and acetone, and these are really powerful solvents, and dimexide, for example, is as good at dissolving organics and charcoal as specialized chemistry, and it's much cheaper.
But traditional methods have serious disadvantages: Dimexide is aggressive against certain plastics and rubber, and also flushes graphite coating with a pistons (if any), Kerosene can damage valve ossels with prolonged contact, risking the engine resource for the sake of saving is a questionable strategy.
In addition, the ratios of kerosene and acetone mixing are often taken from the ceiling, which can lead to either a weak effect or damage to parts. Specialized decoxers are tested for compatibility with ICE materials, which is not the case with household chemicals.
If you are still trying to experiment, remember: Dimexide freezes at temperatures below +18°CSo you have to warm it up before you use it, and you have to keep the engine warm, and you have to wash it off with water or alcohol, because Dimexide is toxic and can cause burns.
Effects of the procedure and further operation
After successful decogging, you'll notice changes in the behavior of the car, the engine will work smoother, there will be no vibrations at idle speed, there will be better acceleration dynamics, and the oil consumption should decrease to normal values, if there was no mechanical wear.
During the first 500 kilometers after the procedure, it is advisable to avoid high loads, give the engine the opportunity to "get used to" new operating conditions, it is also recommended to check the level and condition of the oil again after 1000 km of run, since part of the coar could be washed out gradually.
To prevent the problem from returning quickly, rethink your driving style. Long-term driving at low speeds ("stretching") contributes to the formation of soot. Periodically, let the engine work at high speeds (for example, when overtaking on the track) to self-clean.
⚠️ Attention: If the oil consumption has not decreased after decogging or the compression has not increased, then the problem is mechanical wear (bullying, ring production).
Regular use of quality fuel and oil, and timely replacement of consumables is the best protection against scalding. Decoxing is a treatment measure, not a panacea, which allows you to postpone major repairs, but not a substitute for competent maintenance.
The only effective way to decoction is to have the rings in place because of the scorching, and if you wear it mechanically or damage the CNG, it's useless and needs repair.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I do the decoking on a hot engine?
Yes, it's even preferable. The heat gap of the piston in the hot engine is maximum, allowing the liquid to penetrate deeper under the rings. However, pouring cold chemistry into the hot block is not abruptly worth it - let it cool to 40-50 degrees or heat the product before pouring.
How many miles do I have to drive after cleaning before changing the oil?
If you've used an aggressive method of filling the cylinders, you need to change the oil immediately after the procedure, because it gets washed away dirt and residues of chemistry. With soft decoking, the oil is changed after a run of 100-200 km, which is used for the drug.
Will the engine be able to smoke blue smoke?
If the smoke is recent and the cause is the rings from the smog, the chances are good, but if the engine mileage is high and there is output in the cylinders, the decoxing may temporarily improve the situation, but it will not eliminate the problem completely.
Do I need to turn the engine after filling the decoxer?
Yes, periodic cranking of the crankshaft with the starter (for 10-15 seconds with interruptions) helps the liquid to penetrate into all hard-to-reach places and better soak the coke on the rings, but you need to do this carefully, observing safety measures.