Operating a outboard motor in an aggressive aquatic environment, whether fresh lake or salt sea, inevitably leads to the accumulation of pollution on the outer surface of the unit. Salt, silt, fuel residues, oils and biological fouling not only spoil the aesthetic appearance of the equipment, but are also catalysts for destructive chemical reactions. Regular cleaning outer-shell The open bottom is not just a matter of neatness of the owner, but a critical maintenance procedure.
Ignoring the need to wash the outboard motor can lead to the fact that the salt plaque will begin to corrode the paint coating, opening direct access to corrosion to metal alloys. In the long term, this threatens to lose the tightness of the units, jamming of the movable suspension elements and a significant decrease in the market value of the device when sold.
There are many myths that it's enough to just dip the motor in water to clean the house, or use household products to wash dishes. aluminumThe slabs that make most of the lower units and anti-cavitation plates are extremely sensitive to alkaline environments, and plastic fairings can become clouded by aggressive solvents. Understanding the chemical composition of contaminants and the properties of materials is the first step to proper care of machinery.
Types of pollution and choice of cleaning agent
Before you start the active phase of washing, you need to accurately identify the type of contamination, because there is no universal remedy for everything in nature. salt-plateIt's a compound that is formed by evaporating water and crystallizing salts on the surface of the metal, and it requires low-acid compounds or specialized salt neutralizers that dissolve the crystals without damaging the protective aluminum oxide layer.
The second common problem is oily films and residues of fuel and lubricants that get onto the engine as a result of work or careless refueling, and it makes no sense to use water under pressure without pretreatment. degrimier These products emulsify the oil, allowing it to be washed away with water without rubbing the greasy film all over the surface of the casing.
⚠️ Note: It is strictly forbidden to use chlorine-containing products (for example, ordinary "White") to wash aluminum parts of the engine. Chlorine causes point corrosion and pitting, which is almost impossible to eliminate without a complete replacement of the unit.
The third type of pollution is biological fouling (algae, seashells) and copper oxides (green coating), characteristic of motors that are long in the water, and more aggressive acids are used to combat them, such as phosphoric acids or special lower unit cleaners.
Preparation for washing and safety measures
The cleaning process begins long before you pick up a hose or sponge. The first and most important step is to complete the cleaning process. fuel-system decompression The introduction of cleaning chemicals into a carburetor or injection ramp through an air intake can lead to costly repairs and unstable engine operation in the future.
The motor should be mounted upright, preferably on a wash rack or just on the trunk of the boat, to allow the free flow of dirty water. If you plan to use a high-pressure washer, make sure that all drainage holes in the lower unit are open and not clogged with dirt. This will allow water to flow freely from the inner cavities, preventing moisture from accumulating inside the casing.
Personal safety when working with chemicals is also a priority. Many professional cleaners operate on the basis of acids or strong alkalis, so the use of the drug is a priority. gloves And you have to have glasses, and if you get a concentrated product on your skin, it can cause a chemical burn, and some solvents can cause airway irritation.
☑️ Preparation for washing
Technology washing: step-by-step instructions
The process should begin with a pre-rinse with a large amount of fresh water, which is necessary to remove sand, silt and large particles of dirt, which, when mechanically rubbed with a sponge, can leave deep scratches on the paint coating, water should be supplied at a moderate pressure, so as not to damage the seals and glands.
After the main dirt is washed off, the cleaning agent chosen is applied. If you use a spray cleaner, spray it evenly over the surface, paying special attention to hard-to-reach places, fasteners and the area around the lower unit. Let the chemistry work for the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 5-10 minutes), but do not allow it to dry on the surface, as this can leave hard-to-removal divorces.
For mechanical cleaning, use soft brushes with synthetic bristles or sponges with abrasiveness not higher than the Super Fine class. Hard metal brushes are strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and contribute to further corrosion. anticavitational And the propeller, where the pollution accumulates most intensely.
⚠️ Warning: Never direct the jet of high pressure washers directly at electrical connectors, sensors and output points of the gearshift rod. High pressure can push water through micro gaps, causing a short circuit or water to enter the gearbox.
The final step is to thoroughly rinse with a large volume of clean water, wash away all residues of chemistry and emulsified dirt, and then wipe the motor dry with a soft flannel cloth or microfiber to prevent waterspots, especially if the water in your area is hard.
Can I wash the engine with Kercher?
You can use a high-pressure washer, but with great care: the pressure should not exceed 100-110 bar, and the jet should be directed at an angle, not perpendicular to the surface. It is strictly forbidden to bring the nozzle closer than 30-40 cm to the seals and electrical contacts. It is better to use the "foam washer" mode or a wide fan sprayer to minimize the risk of damage. "
Comparison of household and professional chemistry
There are many products on the market, and the choice between household chemicals and specialized marine cleaners is often a challenge for owners. Household products such as car shampoos or glass washing products can be effective at removing light dust and dirt, but they are powerless against serious oxides and ingrained salt.
Professional chemistry designed specifically for marinIt contains corrosion inhibitors and components adapted to work with sea alloys of aluminum and stainless steel. Yamalube, Quicksilver or Star briteThey offer products that not only clean, but also create a protective film.
| Type of instrument | Effectiveness against salt | Safety for plastics | Protective effect | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Car shampoo | Low. | High. | Missing. | Low. |
| Acetic acid (diluted) | Medium | Medium | Missing. | Low. |
| lower unit special cleaner | High. | High (when flushed) | Medium. | Medium |
| WD-40 Specialist Marine | Medium | High. | Highly | High. |
The use of specialized tools is often more cost-effective in the long run, requiring less processing costs and providing protection that prevents the need for expensive remediation in the future. concentrated Professional chemistry allows you to prepare a large amount of detergent solution from one bottle.
Control of oxidation and galvanic corrosion
One of the most insidious problems for outboard motors is galvanic corrosion, which occurs when dissimilar metals come into contact in the electrolyte (water). Even after thorough washing, microscopic salt residues in the metal pores can trigger this process. zinc protectors (anodes) set up on lower unit.
If you notice a white powder coating around the fasteners or at the junction of aluminum parts, it's a signal that oxidation is starting, and in such cases, just washing off with water is not enough, and you need to mechanically clean these places to shine, and then treat them with special rust converters or protective lubricants for the underwater parts of the motor.
It is also important to check the condition of the lower unit for chipped paint. Any scratch that reaches the metal must be immediately painted with the appropriate enamel or treated. zinc-containingIgnoring small defects leads to rapid growth of corrosion sites under the paint layer.
After each wash and before storage, lubricate all movable hinges, cables and shafts with special lubricants labeled "Marine" or "Waterproof." Conventional lithium lubricants are quickly washed out with water. "
Finishing and conservation
Once the motor is washed and dried, the finishing stage is one that many owners miss, and plastic casings are ideal for UV filter polishes, which not only return the plastic parts to a deep black color and shine, but also protect the material from the damaging effects of ultraviolet light, preventing microcracks.
Metal parts, especially those that do not come into contact with water (e.g., fastening brackets, the outer surface of the lower unit above the waterline), are recommended to be treated with protective wax or preservative spray, which will create a hydrophobic layer that repels water and dirt, which will greatly facilitate the next time washing.
⚠️ Note: Do not use silicone spray lubricants in areas where subsequent painting or decals stickers are expected. Silicone creates a greasy film that is extremely difficult to remove and the paint will not fall on such a surface.
For long-term storage, for example, in the winter, after washing and drying, the engine is recommended to be treated with a spray preservative for external surfaces, which will protect the equipment from moisture in the room and temperature changes. It is critically important before conservation to make sure that the engine is completely cooled and all internal cavities are dry.
Regular washing with fresh water after each release on salt water prolongs the life of the motor by 2-3 times compared to the rare general cleanings by aggressive chemistry.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I wash the motor?
Ideally, rinse the engine with fresh water after each run, especially if you have been swimming in salt water, and it is recommended to carry out a general wash with chemistry at the end of each season or every 50 hours, depending on the intensity of operation.
Can vinegar be used to remove scale?
Yes, a weak solution of table vinegar (mixed with water in a ratio of 1:3) effectively removes salt deposits, but after treatment with vinegar, the surface must be thoroughly washed with plenty of water to neutralize the acid.
How do you clean the butter from Dadwood?
To remove oil stains, it is best to use special degrimers (degrimers) or kerosene. Apply the product on the rags and gently wipe the contaminated area, after which rinse the area with water with soap solution.
Is pressure washer dangerous for the oils?
Yes, a straight jet under high pressure can damage the edges of the coils and drive water inside the gearbox. The sink should be carried out with a fan nozzle from a distance of at least 40-50 cm, avoiding direct contact with the seals of the rod and screw.
How to remove oxidation (green plaque) from aluminum?
Green plaque is copper oxides, and there are acid cleaners for lower units to remove it, and when they're applied, they become matte, so you might need to polish with a metal paste to restore the shine.