Engine cleaning: cleaning from the swelling without disassembly

In the process of operating the car, especially when driving around the city often or at low speeds, the cylinders inevitably accumulate. garmentThese are solid deposits, made up of unburned residues of fuel, oil and oxidation products that settle on pistons, valves and rings, and over time, the layer of coar becomes so thick that it interferes with normal operation. piston-group, causing loss of power and increased fuel consumption.

Many car owners, noticing the first signs of problems with the engine, immediately prepare for major repairs. smear This procedure, known as decoking, can restore mobility to the stagnant rings and clean the combustion chamber if the problem has not reached a critical stage of physical destruction of parts.

The success of the operation depends on the correct choice of chemical and strict adherence to the technology. The efficiency of decoking with fully laid (broken) rings is close to zero, so the method is relevant precisely to eliminate the coking of mobile elements. In this article, we will discuss in detail how the process of sediment removal occurs, what tools really work and what to fear.

Causes of the formation of sodium and its effect on the operation of the engine

The main cause of dense carbon deposits is poor combustion of the fuel-air mixture. When the engine operates in modes other than optimal, such as idling or at sharp accelerations, some of the fuel does not have time to burn completely. The residues settle on hot surfaces, burn down and form a solid layer, which mechanics often call the "solid layer". cokeAlso, a significant contribution is made by motor oil entering the combustion chamber through worn-out glands or crankcase ventilation.

The most critical consequence is that the piston rings become less mobile, and they get stuck in their grooves and they don't fit tightly into the cylinder walls, and that causes gases to break through the crankcase, and oil to get into the combustion chamber more actively, burns and creates more soda. compression and engine trifle.

And also, the thick layer of sediment on the bottom of the piston reduces the volume of the combustion chamber, which increases the degree of compression and can cause detonation, which is spontaneous ignition of the mixture. rod It can also build up under the valves, preventing them from closing tightly, which leads to burnout of the edges and less leaky cylinders.

⚠️ Attention: If the engine starts to consume oil liters, and the compression in the cylinders is uneven (the difference is more than 1-2 atmospheres), chemical cleaning can only temporarily relieve symptoms, but will not solve the problem of mechanical wear.

The main methods of decoding: comparison and features

There are several ways to deal with the stain, which vary in terms of the impact on the engine and the complexity of the execution, and the simplest method is to add a detergent to the fuel, which works gently and long, cleaning mainly the inlet tract and the top of the piston, but is powerless against hard stain on the rings.

More aggressive and effective is pouring the decoxer directly into the cylinders through candle holes, which softens the deposits, turning them into a mush mass, which then burns out when the engine is running or is excreted with exhaust gases. piston-ring And the bottom of the cylinder.

The third option is soft oil extraction, which is a special compound added to the old oil, a limited number of kilometers traveled on it, and then the oil filter and lubricant are changed, which is good for cleaning oil channels and removing lacquer deposits, but it requires caution, because aggressive chemistry can damage the oil oil oils.

The choice of the specific method depends on the state of the engine and the time available. For preventive cleaning before changing the oil, a combination approach is often used, combining washing of the lubrication system and pouring into the cylinders. combustion-chamber and the lubrication system.

Preparation of the engine for the cleaning procedure

You can't do good decoking without proper preparation. The first and most important thing is that the engine has to be heated to operating temperature. The cold metal has a different expansion coefficient, and the chemistry will work worse. And the viscosity of the oil to the cold will prevent the composition from effectively penetrating the gaps of the rings.

You need to pre-prepared the tool, you need a candle key, a syringe with a tube, or a special tube for pumping liquid, a rag, and of course, yourself. scouterBuy a new set of candles and an oil filter in advance, as old candles after the procedure can fail or become covered with plaque, and the filter will get clogged with washed mud.

Safety is important. Solvent vapors are toxic and flammable, so it's best to do it outside or in a well-ventilated area, and it's also worth protecting the paintwork by covering the wings and hood with film, because aggressive chemicals can damage the paint if accidentally hit.

Step by step: cleaning through candle holes

This is considered the gold standard for removing the coke from the piston group, and once the engine is warmed up, you need to turn it off and unscrew all the spark plugs, which will allow you to visualize the condition of the cylinders and give you access to the liquid.

Then you need to place the pistons in approximately the middle position, and you need to turn the crankshaft so that all the pistons are in the center of the cylinders, which will ensure that the rings are in the zone of maximum concentration of soot and prevent the aggressive liquid from entering the valves or pallets in large volumes.

Using a syringe, pour 30-50 ml of decoxing liquid into each cylinder (the exact amount is specified in the instructions for the specific product). After pouring, twist the candles back (not to the end to create pressure when the vapors expand) or simply insert them into the holes. Leave the car for the time specified by the manufacturer of the product - usually from 1 to 12 hours.

After the time has passed, the candles must be twisted out and the residue of liquid and softened sludge pumped into the holes with a syringe. hydraulic impactAfter pumping, blow the cylinders with a starter (with the candles twisted and the ignition turned off) to remove the residue of vapor.

What to do if the liquid is completely absorbed?

If after the allotted time there is no liquid in the cylinders, it means that the coar is very strong and absorbed the entire composition, in which case the pouring procedure must be repeated again to ensure sufficient time for the exposure of the chemistry to the sediments.

The final step is assembly and start. Roll in the candles (preferably new ones), start the engine. It can run unevenly, it can smoke white or blue smoke — it's normal, burns out the stain and the residue of chemistry. Let the engine work 10-15 minutes at increased revs (about 2000-2500 rpm) to finally burn out the decay products.

Comparison of popular means for removing scalp

The autochemical market offers many products, but not all are equally effective: some are mild and require long-term use, others are powerful solvents that can damage rubber seals when overexposure is used, the choice of the product depends on the degree of contamination and material of the engine parts.

Below is a table comparing the specifications of the most popular decoding tools on the market:

Remedy.	Basis	Time of action	Aggressiveness
GZox	Petroleum products	3-5 hours	Medium
Shima (Japan)	Kerosene/solvents	12 hours.	High.
Greenol Reanimator	Alcohols/solvents	1-4 hours	High.
Edil Ultra Diegel	Petroleum products	12 hours.	Low.

When choosing, you should pay attention to the reviews about a particular engine. direct injection There are some things that can be very nuanced, some things that are too aggressive to rubber oil caps, which can cause them to smother and then burn out the oil.

Effects of the procedure and necessary service after cleaning

Once the engine is cleaned of the stainless gas, the engine oil and the oil filter must be replaced, and the old oil gets a lot of dissolved soda, dirt and the chemistry, which turns the grease into an abrasive mixture that can kill the crankshaft liners.

It is also recommended to replace the oil again after 100-200 km of run, especially if powerful washing compounds were used, this ensures that there are no active components left in the lubrication system that could erode new glands.

It's important to understand that once you clean, the compression may not grow instantly, sometimes it takes several hundred kilometers to get the rings to fall apart and get in the right position, and if the compression doesn't recover, the rings are likely to have mechanical damage or production, and the chemistry is already powerless.

⚠️ Attention: For the first 50 km after decoking, avoid sharp accelerations and high-load engine operation, let the parts adapt to new operating conditions and finally clean the friction surface.

Frequent questions and misconceptions about the scoop

Will the engine be able to clean up if the engine is already eating oil in liters?

If the oil consumption is caused by the rings being deposited due to the soot, the procedure can help to restore mobility to the rings and reduce the carbon footprint, however, if the rings are worn out physically (thinned, lost elasticity) or there is production in the cylinders, chemical cleaning will not work, in which cases mechanical repair is required.

Can I do the decoking on a diesel engine?

Yes, but the technology is a little different. Diesels are harder to get to the combustion chamber (often require nozzles or candles), and the soda is harder and more resinous. Often require more aggressive chemistry and longer exposure time. It is also important to carefully pump out the remaining fluid, since the diesel is more sensitive to hydraulic shock because of its high compression ratio.

Do I need to turn the engine after pouring the funds?

There is a technique where, after pouring the product, the engine is briefly scrolled with a starter with twisted candles to distribute the liquid. However, most modern instructions recommend static shutter speed. Dynamic scrolling can splash aggressive fluid over the walls where it is not needed, or damage the lubricating layer on the cylinder mirror.

To sum up, cleaning the engine without disassembling is an affordable and often effective way to extend the life of the engine: using quality products, following the technology and realistically assessing the condition of the unit, regular use of quality fuel additives and timely change of oil will delay the moment when serious decoking is required.