Many owners of inflatable vessels sooner or later think about improving the comfort of management, especially if the length of the craft exceeds 3.5 meters. remote-control For a outboard motor, it's not just a fashion homage, it's a real opportunity to improve the ergonomics and safety of fishing or cruising. Unlike the rotary control, which requires constant physical contact with the vomit, the cockpit allows you to move freely, which is especially true when fishing with trolling or in conditions of high excitement.
It is important to understand that installing the DR on an inflatable boat has its own specific nuances that distinguish this process from mounting on rigid boats. The transom flexibility, limited space and mounting features require careful selection of components and adherence to the technology of laying the cables. The key moment Here is the right choice of the type of control system that will be compatible with your model of the engine and the design of the vessel.
In this article, we will discuss all aspects of modernization, from the selection of suitable equipment to the intricacies of its installation. You will learn how to avoid common errors that can lead to breakage of the gearbox or damage to the transom.
Advantages and features of remote control systems
The main advantage of transition to remote-control It's about increasing maneuverability and control of the vessel, and when you're free, you can control the motor, you can hold a spinning wheel, you can adjust your navigation course, and this is especially important in emergency situations, where the reaction needs to be instantaneous and the physical effort on the tiller can be delayed.
Modern power systems are divided into mechanical and hydraulic, although for small and medium power (up to 50-60 hp), mechanical cable actuators are most often used. They are reliable, easy to maintain and much cheaper than hydraulics. The mechanical drive transmits the force from the harunduk (control machine) to the engine through special special devices. steering-lineThey are of high quality and fit the length of your boat.
⚠️ Caution: Using cheap cables from unknown manufacturers can lead to their stretching or breaking at the most inopportune moment, which can lead to loss of control of the boat.
Another important aspect is the ability to install the engine emergency stop (kill switch button). In the case of rompel control, the cord is often attached to clothing, which can be uncomfortable when a sharp jerk is made. In the DU system, this element is integrated into the harunduk, ensuring reliable fixation and quick reaction. In addition, the presence of a separate gas lever allows for more smooth adjustment of the speeds, which saves fuel and reduces the load on the engine.
Criteria for the selection of equipment for inflatable boats
When choosing a kit for your PVC boat, the first thing to consider is compatibility with the make and model of your engine. Yamaha, Tohatsu, Suzuki or MercuryThere are no universal solutions for everyone, so the kit should be tailored strictly to your equipment.
The length of the cables is the second critical parameter. For inflatable boats, standard cable lengths (usually 3 meters or 10 feet) are often not enough, especially if the knob is planned to be installed on board rather than on the transom. In such cases, you need to order elongated versions, but it is worth remembering that the longer the cable, the more effort is required to change gears and add gas.
The material also plays a role. The shell of the runduk must be made of corrosion-resistant materials that are resistant to salt water and ultrafi. Aluminum alloys with anodized coating or high-quality plastic are the best choice. Cheap steel structures quickly rust, even if they are painted.
Below is a comparative table of popular types of control systems available in the market:
| Type of system | Compatibility (L. S.) | Difficulty of installation | Price. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mechanical (budget) | up to 40 hp | Low. | Low. |
| Mechanical (standard) | up to 60-70 hp. | Medium | Medium |
| Mechanical (reinforced) | up to 115 hp | High. | High. |
| hydraulic | 70 hp and above | Very high. | Very high. |
Preparation of PVC boat for installation of DU
The workplace must be carefully prepared before installation begins. Unlike aluminum boats, the PVC boat's transcoat has a soft coating and flexibility that requires a special approach to drilling and mounting the knots. First, determine the exact location of the control machine itself (munk), most often mounted on the starboard side, closer to the cockpit, to ensure easy access and visibility.
You will need to remove the motor from the transom and disassemble the existing ramper. Be careful when disconnecting the gas/neutral cables if they are present (some electric-start motors may already have them installed). Check the transom for damage. If you plan to attach the rams directly to the transom (for example, the bracket for cables), make sure that the thickness of the transom allows you to do this without risking damage to the inflatable tubes.
Use soft rubber or felt pads under all metal brackets attached to the transom to avoid rubbing PVC fabric when the motor vibrates.
Prepare the tool you need: a drill with a set of drills (including first drills for large holes), a set of keys, screwdrivers, sealant for marine applications and tape. Think ahead of time for the route of laying the cables. They should not have sharp inflections (bending radius at least 15-20 cm), otherwise the inner shirt of the cable will quickly be worn and the control will become tight.
Step-by-step instructions for installation of the system
The installation process begins with the installation of the control machine itself. Drill holes in the selected location of the side or paiola (if the design allows) and fasten the knob with bolts using counternuts and washers. Make sure that the mount is rigid and has no backlashes. Next, you need to install a bracket for the passage of the cables to the transom. Many motors already have standard holes for connecting the DRs, closed with plugs.
The next step is to lay the cables. Stretching the cables from the rundock to the motor, avoiding places where they can be clamped or rubbed. On PVC boats, the cables often have to be laid along the side, fixing them with special clips or clamps so that they do not hang under your feet. In places where you pass through the holes in the transom, be sure to use rubber seals (grommets).
☑️ Checklist for DU editing
Connecting to the motor requires care. Remove the engine casing and find the gear shift levers and the throttle levers, which usually requires removing the lock pins or unscrewing the locking screws on the standard levers. Set the cable tips on the motor levers, keeping the direction of rotation in mind. It is important that the throttle opens when the handle moves forward, and the switching is done clearly.
After the mechanical connection, you need to adjust the system. The adjustment is that when the neutral hand is in position, the motor is also neutral, and when the lever is fully forward, the valve opens completely (WOT - Wide Open Throttle).
Adjustment and adjustment of control cables
Proper adjustment is the key to long-term system service and safety. Tie-tieing If the cable is twisted, the lever will run tight, and there will be excessive friction inside the shirt, which will cause rapid wear, and if the cable sags, you lose part of the lever's stroke, and the engine will not come out at full speed or turn on the gear until the end.
Pay special attention to synchronizing the gas lever and gear shifts. In mechanical systems, the gear shift first (neutral-forward), and only then, as the lever moves further, the throttle begins to open. This moment must be clearly adjusted. If the gas is added before the gear is turned on, this can lead to a sharp jerk of the boat and even break the gears of the gearbox.
⚠️ Warning: Never leave the system unchecked on land. Be sure to check the switching of all modes (front-neutral-back) on the running engine several times before launching, making sure that the boat is securely fixed.
To fine-tune the gear, use a marker and mark the motor levers at extreme positions, which will help you visually monitor whether the cable is moving enough, and in some cases, you may need to trim the outer shirt of the cable or adjust the length of the inner vein with threaded tips.
Service and typical problems
The remote control system installed on the PVC boat is aggressively exposed to the environment. Salt water, dust, sand and constant vibration do their job. Regular maintenance will prolong the life of the equipment. After each outing, especially in salt water, it is recommended to spray the outer parts of the runduk and the exit points of the cables with fresh water and a special grease spray.
One of the typical problems is that the water leaks into the shirt of the cable, which leads to corrosion of the inner vein and freezing of the controls in the winter, and to avoid this, when you install it, direct the cuts of the shirt downwards so that the water flows away from the inside, and there are special caps and lubricants that prevent moisture from entering.
What to do if the cable is jammed on the water?
If the lever is stuck in the forward position, don't try to pull it by force. Try to gently switch to neutral. If you can't, use the emergency stop button to silence the engine. Then slowly, with the oars or the electric motor, return to shore for repairs.
Periodically check the tightening of all bolt joints. The PVC engine vibration is transmitted to the entire hull, and the fastener may weaken. Pay special attention to the places where the brackets are attached to the transom. Luft in the control system is unacceptable, because it reduces the accuracy of the boat's control.
Safety and operating rules
Water safety is priority number one. Installing a remote control system changes your control habits, so you need to get used to the new form factor in quiet water. Make sure the emergency stopper cord is always strapped to the life jacket. In a DU system, this cord is pulled from the rundock, instantly turning off the engine if the skipper falls overboard.
It's important to remember the loads on the transom. Installing a heavy hazelnut and extra elements on board can shift the center of gravity. Spread the weight of passengers and gear evenly. Don't overload one side, which is especially critical for narrow PVC boats.
Regularly checking the integrity of the cables and lubricating the knots is the only way to avoid losing control at full speed.
Observing these simple rules will allow you to enjoy comfortable fishing and cruising without worrying about technical nuances. Remote control is an investment in comfort that pays off with the first fishing, when your hands are free and maneuvers are performed with a single movement of the brush.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install a two-stroke engine with a capacity of 15 hp?
Technically, it's possible, but it's often not economically feasible, because a quality set of DRs can cost 50-70% of the cost of the engine itself, and these are usually powered by electric pumps or left manually, because the vomit is minimal.
Do I need to change the fuel hoses when installing the DP?
No, the fuel hose system itself doesn't require replacing the fuel hose unless you're changing the position of the tank. However, if you're removing the pump, make sure that the fuel line is sealed and the hose is not twisted when the engine is in new position.
How often should the control cables be lubricated?
It is recommended to carry out preventive lubrication through special oils (if they are provided by the design of the cable) or by injecting lubricant into the shirt at least once a season, as well as after prolonged downtime or contact with salt water.
Does the engine guarantee affect the engine?
The installation of certified equipment alone should not affect the warranty, however, if the engine breaks during installation or due to improper adjustment (for example, a shaft or gear failure due to desynchronization), the service center may refuse warranty repairs, citing a violation of operating conditions.