Many owners of low-power outboard motors face a classic dilemma: how to charge the battery during a short fishing trip, if the standard charging system works extremely poorly or is absent at all. Tohatsu 9.8 This is no exception, as basic versions often have limited electrical equipment designed only to run the ignition system and the fire coil, but the desire to connect a sonar, navigator or even a simple LED lighting pushes water engines to upgrade.
Staff magnetism These internal combustion engines often can't handle the loads of modern gadgets. Owners are forced to look for ways to increase the output power or completely replace the nodes of the generator. In this article, we will discuss in detail how the electrician "tohatsu", what are the upgrade options and how to properly connect external devices, not burn. straightener And don't stay in a boat with a dead battery in the middle of a pond.
Before you start mechanical interventions, you need to be clear about what you want to end up with. Simply replacing the coil with a "more powerful" one without changing the entire circuitry is a common mistake that can cause the entire ignition system to fail. flywheel and the stator plate.
Design features of the standard ignition system
Standard electric motor circuit Tohatsu 9.8 The magdino is built inside the flywheel, and there are powerful permanent magnets that, when rotated, create alternating current in the stator windings, and the main problem is that the regular fire coil often has a small number of turns or a specific configuration that does not allow energy to be removed without compromising spark formation.
It's important to understand the difference between single-phase and three-phase systems. Most motors up to 10 hp are initially equipped with a single-phase generator, which means that even if you install a more powerful coil, you won't get a stable voltage at high speeds without using high-quality power. stabilizerThe voltage surges in such systems can reach critical values.
⚠️ Warning: Never attempt to start the motor with the high-voltage wire disconnected or without loading the generator coil. In a battery-free (CDI) system, this can result in instantaneous failure of the coil's insulation due to a surge in EMF self-induction.
There is a common misconception that increasing the power of the motor automatically increases the efficiency of charging. Tohatsu It produces little or no useful current, which is why many people are switching to external generator coils that are installed on vacant stator seats.
Why does the spark drop when installing a powerful generator?
When you attach an extra load (generator coil) to the general magnetic system, part of the magnetic flux is "stealed" to charge. If the magnets in the flywheel are weak or the gap between them and the coil is too large, the energy per spark may not be enough, especially when idling.
Options for modernization: coils and rectifiers
The most popular way to solve the problem is to install an additional generator coil. The market offers many options, but the most proven are solutions from Russian manufacturers adapted to the seats of Japanese engines, such coils are often called “12B generator coils” or “reinforced coils”.
But one coil is not enough. To convert alternating current to direct current and stabilize the voltage, you need to do it. regulatorWithout it, the voltage will go from 0 to 40-50 volts depending on the speed, which is guaranteed to kill your battery or connected electronics. Modern diode bridges with built-in stabilization are a must-have tuning element.
- 🔋 Generator coil - the main element that converts the mechanical energy of the shaft rotation into electric.
- ⚡ Regulator-Rectifier - a device that converts alternating current into constant and limiting voltage at the level of 13.5-14.5V.
- 🔌 Switching pad Often requires replacement of the staff with a more spacious one if many wires are added.
- 🛡️ Safety lock A critical protection element that is often forgotten to be installed between the generator and the battery.
When choosing components, pay attention to the current load. To charge a small battery and power the sonar, a system that issues 3-5 Amps is enough. If you plan to install an electric anchor or a powerful audio system, a regular magdino of 9.8 hp will not be enough, and you will have to look towards installing a separate benzogenerator or replacing the engine with a model with a factory three-phase generator.
Tools and installation preparation
The process of upgrading an electrician requires precision and a set of tools: you should not start working on the knee near the water, you should better prepare the engine in advance in a garage or workshop. Pay special attention to the purity of contacts, because sea salt and moisture are the main enemies of electricians.
You'll need a special detacher to dismantle the flywheel, and you can't knock the flywheel out with a hammer, because it'll destroy the crankshaft seat or deform the shaft, and you'll need a dynamometer key to tighten the flywheel nut properly, because the timing of the tightening is critical.
☑️ Tools for replacing the generator
Before starting work, it is recommended to treat all threaded connections with penetrating lubricant, especially if the motor was operated in salt water, this will make it easier to unscrew the sour bolts of the fan cover and the flywheel itself, and also stock up with a quality contact spray for processing the connectors after assembly.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the coil
The first step is always to remove the casing and fan cover. Be careful with the plastic fixtures, they become brittle on the old engines. Once you get access to the flywheel, unscrew the central nut. Here you need a renter: screw it into the carving on the shaft and rest it in the shaft itself, start twisting the stud of the removable until the flywheel jumps off the cone.
Once the flywheel is removed, you can access the stator plate. The standard fire coil is usually secured by two screws. Carefully unfurl or unplug the wires after you have taken a picture of the connection circuit. Install a new, more powerful generator coil, making sure it doesn't hit the flywheel when you're spinning. The clearance between the magnets and the coil should be minimal, but without contact.
⚠️ Attention: When installing the flywheel back, make sure the veneer (kei) is perfectly flat in the groove. The skewed veneer will cause the flywheel to beat, coils to break and the engine to wedge at full speed.
The most important step is to connect the rectifier, and the circuit is usually simple: two wires from the generator coil go to the rectifier input (AC), and from the exit (DC) - plus the battery (through the fuse) and minus the mass, the wiring is better placed immediately in corrugated and securely secured with clamps, so that the vibration does not rub the insulation.
Grease the crankshaft cone and flywheel interior with a thin layer of graphite lubricant or lithole before installation. This will prevent parts from boiling and make it easier (next dismantling).
Connection scheme and equipment configuration
Proper switching is key to long life of equipment. Below is a basic table of colors of wires, which is often found on motors. Tohatsu and compatible generators, but always check the instructions for a specific rectifier.
| Type of wire | Color (standard) | Where to plug in | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Generator output 1 | White/Yellow | AC rectifier entry | Alternating current |
| Generator output 2 | White/Green | AC rectifier entry | Alternating current |
| Exit plus (+) | Red. | Plus the battery (through the fuse) | Charging. |
| Exit minus (-) | Black/Brown | Mass (motor body) | Grounding |
Once the circuit is assembled, you need to do a first multimeter test, and if you don't plug the battery, start the motor and measure the voltage at the outlet of the rectifier, it should be about 12-13 volts at idle speeds, and if you go up, it should not exceed 14.5-15 volts. voltage-regulator faulty or incorrectly connected.
To connect consumers, use a separate socket or a water-protected socket. It is not recommended to hang everything on the battery terminals, as constant access to them can lead to oxidation. The ideal solution is to install a small switchboard with switchgear and individual fuses for each device.
The main criterion for correct installation is a stable voltage of 13.8-14.2V at any speed and no drawdowns when the load is turned on.
Failure diagnosis and maintenance
Even the most reliable system sometimes fails. If the charge is gone, the first thing you do is check the safety lock. This is trivial, but 50 percent of the time, the problem is the burnt-out fuse, and then you call the generator windings for a break or a short circuit.
The resistance of the generator windings is usually in the range of 0.1 - 0.5 Ohms (depending on the model of the coil). If the multimeter shows infinity - a cliff, if zero - short circuit. Also check the "breakdown" on the body: one probe per wire, another on the metal of the coil. The device should not show anything.
Regular maintenance includes:
- 🧼 Clearing contacts from oxides and salt with a spray-cleaner.
- 🔩 Puff test. stator screws and wire attachments (vibration weakens them).
- 👀 Visual examination insulation for rubbing against the body.
- 🌡️ Controlling heating After a long period of time (it should not be hot).
If the motor starts to turn or stop after installing the generator, it is possible that the new coil puts too much strain on the ignition system, in this case, you should try to increase the gap between the coil and the flywheel magnets by 0.1-0.2 mm or return to a less powerful model of the generator.
Can a Lithium (LiFePO4) battery be charged with a regular generator?
Technically, you can, but only through a quality DC-DC charger: lead-acid batteries are more tolerant to voltage fluctuations than lithium. Directly connecting lithium to a motor rectifier without smart charging can cause the battery's BMS (protection charge) to fail or catch fire.
Why is the straightener warming up?
Heating is normal when a diode bridge is running, especially when it is under load, but if you can't touch the body, it means either the current load is exceeded or the weight is not in good contact (minus). The rectifier must be firmly screwed to the metal part of the motor to remove heat.
Which battery is better for a boat?
For low-power outboard motors, AGM batteries are best suited, they are better at handling vibration and depth discharge than conventional starter (WET) and do not require maintenance. GELs are good, but they are afraid of recharging, which often happens when the regulator malfunctions.
Do I need to take off the battery for the winter?
Even if the motor is kept warm, it is better to keep the battery on the charger in storage mode, and you can not leave it connected to the motor, since the ignition system consumes a small current even when it is turned off (parasitic current), which will lead to a deep discharge in the winter.
Does the installation of the generator affect the guarantee?
Interfering with the electrical circuit and installing non-original components will usually void the warranty on the electrical equipment of the motor. If the motor is new, weigh the risks: it may be easier to buy an external portable battery to power the appliances than to fit into the design.