The arrival of the first cold weather for the owner of water equipment always becomes a signal for the beginning of active preparation for the winter season. Leaving the engine outdoors or in a damp shed means deliberately exposing expensive equipment to the risk of corrosion and destruction of internal mechanisms. Garage, as a rule, provides more stable conditions, but even there there are nuances that require the attention of the owner.
Incorrect preservation often leads to the fact that in the spring, instead of the expected start of the season, a long and costly repair of the unit begins, the gasoline left in the carburetor turns into resins, and the water in the cooling system, when frozen, can break the cylinder block. literacy This is not just a recommendation, but a prerequisite for maintaining the efficiency of your equipment.
In this article, we will take a look at all the steps in preparing your engine for winter storage in a garage, what fluids to replace, how to properly treat metal surfaces, and why vertical positioning is critical for some models, and following these rules ensures that your engine starts the first time next season.
Primary washing and external inspection of equipment
The first and most important step before sending the engine to the garage is to thoroughly clean the dirt, salt and algae. metal-corrosion Even in a dry room, unless removed immediately after the last outing, wash the outside surfaces with fresh water, paying special attention to the cooling system and lower unit.
After washing, a detailed visual inspection of the case for paint chips and mechanical damage is required, and any scratch that reaches the metal will become a focus of rust that can spread under paintwork in a few months of parking. Zinc anodes They also require inspection: if they are used more than half, they should be replaced before the start of conservation.
⚠️ Warning: Never wash a hot engine with cold water. A sudden temperature difference can cause the thermostat to deform or microcrack in the cylinder head.
Pay special attention to electrical connections and candle wells. Water trapped in these areas can cause contact oxidation, which will lead to problems with starting in the spring, blow out hard-to-reach places with compressed air and wipe with rags soaked in a degreaser.
Fuel system conservation
The most common cause of problems with starting after winter is poor-quality fuel left in the system. Modern gasoline with environmental additives tends to delaminate and lose its properties after 2-3 months of storage, the residue of such fuel forms a sticky coating that clogs carburetor jelly or fuel injectors.
There are two main approaches to this problem, and the choice depends on the type of engine and personal preferences. The first option involves completely draining the fuel from the tank and generating its residue from the carburetor before the engine stops completely. The second option, which is often recommended by manufacturers for injection systems, is to add a special fuel source. fuel-stabilizer And fill the tank to the end to minimize the amount of air and prevent condensation.
If you choose a stabilizer method, be sure to let the engine run for a few minutes at idle speeds, so that the additive-rich mixture gets into all the fuel system channels and the carburetor, then shut down the fuel faucet and recycle the fuel until it stops.
- 🛢️ Use only fresh stabilizers with an unexpired shelf life, old chemicals may not be effective.
- 🧹 Be sure to disconnect the fuel hose and blow it if the tank is removed from the engine.
- 🚫 Do not store gasoline canisters inside a living room or in close proximity to an open fire.
- 🔧 For two-stroke engines, it is important to mix oil with gasoline in the right proportion even when preserved.
What happens if you don't drain the fuel?
The remaining gasoline in the carburetor will evaporate, leaving behind tar deposits, which will block the thinnest channels of jellyclera, which in the spring either will not start at all, or will work unstable, requiring expensive cleaning of the carburetor from a specialist.
Oil replacement and grease of knots
Waste engine oil contains combustion products, acid compounds and metal shavings. It is absolutely impossible to leave such an aggressive cocktail inside the engine for the whole winter, since acids will begin to corrode the inner surfaces of the parts. Oil replacement is a mandatory procedure that must be performed immediately after the last exit, while the engine is still warm and all suspensions are in Suspension.
The lower lower unit gearbox has a similar procedure, but it has its own peculiarities: When you drain old gearbox oil, carefully examine it for emulsion (blue color), the presence of water in the gearbox oil indicates that the oil is leaky, and such a motor can not be stored without repair, otherwise the water will freeze, break the body.
After the technical fluids are replaced, you need to lubricate all visible hinges and cables. Use special marine lubricants that are not washed away by water and are resistant to oxidation. Process the mounting points of the bumper, gear shifting mechanisms and gas cables. This will prevent the joints from souring and ensure smooth operation of the mechanisms in the spring.
☑️ Oil system inspection
Be sure to apply a thin layer of lubricant to electrical connectors and spark plugs before installing them (if you twist them to lubricate the cylinders). A special spray lubricant displaces moisture and creates a protective film to prevent contact oxidation in garage humidity.
Preservation of the piston cylinder group
The inner walls of cylinders and piston rings are susceptible to corrosion even without engine operation, especially if there are temperature changes in the room. Condensation formed inside cylinders can cause rust, which, when first started acting as an abrasive, quickly disables the engine. cylinder-preservation It's a critical phase.
To protect the internal cavities, it is recommended to twist the spark plugs and inject about 10-15 ml of special preservation oil or ordinary engine oil into each cylinder. After that, you need to slowly turn the crankshaft several times. This can be done by pulling the starter cord (pre-disabling the ignition so that there is no spark) or using an electric starter with short-term inclusions.
| Type of engine | Conservation method | Frequency of repetition | Materials required |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-stroke | Oil injection through candle hole | Once before wintering | Oil for 2T engines, syringe |
| Four-stroke | Oil injection and knee-shaft twist | Once before wintering | Motor oil, funnel. |
| Injection | Use of preservative spray | On the recommendation of the Manuel | Spray for cylinder preservation |
| Any type | Closure of the openings with rags | During the entire storage period | Pure rags, scotch. |
After distributing the oil to the cylinder walls, place the candles in place, but do not tighten them to the end, or close the candle holes with clean rags. This will prevent dust and moisture from entering the interior, but will allow the engine to "breathe", avoiding the formation of vacuum or excessive pressure when the temperature changes in the garage.
The main goal of cylinder conservation is to create an oil film on the cylinder mirror that completely blocks oxygen access to the metal and prevents corrosion during downtime.
The correct position and conditions in the garage
The right position of the engine for storage depends on its design and the type of lower unit. Most manufacturers recommend keeping the engine upright to allow free flow of condensate and oil from the exhaust system. However, if there is little space in the garage, some models allow storage in a horizontal position, but strictly on a certain side specified in the instructions.
The tilt of the motor forward (towards the screw) is strictly forbidden for long periods of parking, and in this position, the residue of water from the cooling system can flow into the cylinder block, and the oil from the crankcase can go into the combustion chamber. hydrostrike, which is fatal to the engine.
The garage environment is also important. The ideal option is a dry, heated room with a constant temperature. If the garage is not heated, you need to take care of ventilation to avoid dampness. The motor is best covered with a breathable cover that will protect against dust, but will not create a greenhouse effect that promotes moisture condensation.
- 🏠 Avoid storing the motor in close proximity to the walls of the garage, where condensation often acts.
- 🌡️ Dramatic temperature changes are more harmful than stable cold, so try to minimize the opening of the garage gates in winter.
- 🐀 Check the garage for rodents that can bite the insulation of the wires or nest in the engine casing.
⚠️ Warning: Never cover the engine with a thick plastic film without air, and condensate will inevitably form under the film, causing active corrosion of metal parts in a matter of weeks.
Preparation of the screw and daydvut
The bottom of the motor, which is underwater, requires special attention. The screw and the lower unit often have hidden damage that is not noticeable in the season. Take off the screw and inspect the lower unit for fishing lines or fishing nets. Even a thin line that gets on the omentum can wipe it during storage or at the next start.
Grease the screw and shaft with a special corrosion-resistant lubricant, which will prevent the screw from sticking to the shaft, which often happens after a long stay, and if the screw has chipped or damaged, it is better to eliminate them now while you have time, not before the trip.
Also check the state of the datawoot for deep scratches. If you have any, treat them with a rust converter and paint over. The metal should not remain (open) in the air for several months.
Lubricate the screw slime with graphite lubricant - it best protects against tidding and does not wash off with water, ensuring easy dismantling of the screw next season.
Frequent Questions about Winter Storage (FAQ)
Can I store the motor at low temperatures?
Yes, you can if you can preserve it properly, and the key is to make sure that there is no water left in the cooling system and gearbox that will expand and tear parts when it freezes, and motor oil should also not freeze, so use varieties that are appropriate for the climatic conditions of your region.
Should I start the engine in winter during storage?
No, you can't start the engine in the garage in the winter without a water cooling system, because it will overheat, if the engine is properly preserved, it doesn't require heating up during the winter, and if you run it too much, it will only create condensation inside the exhaust system.
How to know if water has got into the gearbox oil?
When you drain the oil, pay attention to its color and consistency, the pure oil is clear or slightly yellowish, if the oil is milky, it looks like an emulsion or mayonnaise, this is a sure sign of water entering, and this motor requires replacing the omentals before the next season.
Should I remove the battery from the engine?
Yes, the battery must be removed, fully charged and stored in a warm dry place, periodically (once a month) checking the level of charge and recharging it. Leave the battery on the motor or on the cold concrete floor of the garage can not — it will quickly fail.