Inflatable watercraft are rarely operated without the need for minor repairs or upgrades. Carrier handles Polyvinyl chloride fabric boats often fail, break off or simply interfere with the installation of new equipment. Owners face a dilemma: how to remove an old element while preserving the integrity of an expensive cylinder. PVC fabric or the destruction of the protective layer, which will require serious vulcanization.

There are several effective methods that allow carefully separate the handle from the side The choice of the specific method depends on the type of adhesive used in the factory assembly or previous repairs, as well as on the equipment available. In this article, we will discuss in detail the mechanical and thermal dismantling options so that you can choose the best one for your situation.

Before you start, it's important to understand the structure of the connection. The handle is attached to the cylinder with a special device. adhesivePVC, which creates a strong bond between the layers of polyurethane or PVC. Heating. Or dissolving that layer is the only way to succeed, and simply trying to tear it off by force will cause a piece of cylinder tissue to come off with the handle, turning a small cosmetic defect into a serious leakproofness problem.

Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools

Well, the good dismantling of the fittings requires careful preparation. You can't start kneeling in a garage in poor light. You need a flat, hard surface on which the boat will be fixed. Inflate the cylinders to working pressure or a little less so that the fabric is straightened but not pulled. This will provide access to the edges. fastener pens.

The basic toolkit includes a temperature-adjusted building hair dryer, a stationery knife with a stock of sharp blades, a spatula (preferably plastic or wooden so as not to scratch the fabric) and rags. You may also need gloves to protect your hands from burns or chemicals. If you plan to use chemicals, ensure good quality. ventilation premises.

โš ๏ธ Warning: Using an open fire (gas burners, lighters) to heat glue is strictly prohibited! PVC Or melt synthetic fabric, making the boat unusable.

Pay special attention to the cleanliness of the surface. Before starting work, remove sand, dirt and residues of old glue from the area around the handle. Dust can get under the knife when you cut and scratch the material of the balloon. Use isopropyl alcohol or special PVC cleaners for degreasing, but do not use acetone or gasoline, as they can change the structure of the plastic.

โ˜‘๏ธ Preparations for dismantling

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Thermal method: the use of a construction hair dryer

The most common and safe way to remove handles is to heat the adhesive layer. Thermoactive adhesivesThe stainless dryers used in boats are softened at temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Celsius, and you're going to need a building hair dryer that can produce a steady flow of hot air, and you're not going to use hair dryers because they don't give you the right temperature.

The heating process takes patience. Point the hair dryer nozzle to the edge of the handle and evenly warm the area of 2-3 square centimeters. Keep the hair dryer at a distance of 3-5 cm from the surface, constantly moving it so as not to overheat one point. Once the glue becomes soft and sticky, gently tuck the edge of the handle. plastic-spate Or the blunt side of the knife.

Don't try to rip the handle off with jerks. Move slowly, warming the next piece of tissue under the part that's already peeled off. If you feel strong resistance, then the glue is cool, stop pulling and warm up the contact area again. reinforcement fabric, which is critical for the subsequent installation of new fittings.

  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Heat the glue gradually by controlling the temperature with your hand (without touching the hot metal).
  • โœ‚๏ธ Use a thin metal spatula to tweak the edges only after softening the glue.
  • ๐ŸŒฌ๏ธ Direct the airflow at an angle so that it falls under the edge of the handle, rather than blowing from above.
  • ๐Ÿงค Work in tight gloves so as not to burn your fingers on heated plastic.
๐Ÿ’ก

If the handle is unstick with difficulty, try swaying it slightly from side to side with a spatula, helping hot air penetrate deeper into the glue seam.

Mechanical method of cutting the glue layer

In cases where heat treatment is not possible or the glue does not respond to heating (for example, when using certain types of glue). slushThis method is more risky and requires a firm hand and excellent vision, the essence of which is to carefully cut the layer of glue with a blade parallel to the surface of the balloon.

Take a sharp stationery knife and place its blade almost flat relative to the fabric. The movements should be short, progressive, with minimal effort. Your task is to shave the adhesive layer without touching the fabric of the balloon. Often manufacturers use a colored layer of glue, which visually helps control the depth of the cut.

Once the bulk of the handle is removed, the balloon will have a thick layer of frozen glue, which must also be removed, and you can combine the methods of cutting the bulk mechanically first, and the residues will be removed. polymerized You can heat it up with a hair dryer and roll your finger or wipe it with a rag, and it's important not to overdo it or thin the fabric of the balloon.

โš ๏ธ Attention: With mechanical removal, there is a high risk of cutting through the tissue. If you feel that the blade is too easy and the depth of the cut increases, stop immediately. balloon.

The effectiveness of this method depends on the sharpness of the tool: a blunted blade will not cut, but tear the material, leaving the burrs. Change the blades in the stationery knife every 5-10 minutes of active work or at the first sign of resistance.

๐Ÿ“Š What do you think is the most risky way to remove glue?
Thermal (dryer)
Mechanical (knife)
Chemical (solvent)
Combined

Chemical removal and special solvents

The chemical method involves the use of special solvents that soften the structure of the glue. ethylcellulose or special flushes, which can be found in auto stores or specialized stores for PVC. For adhesives based on neoprene or polychloroprene suitable solvents type 646, acetone (with caution) or gasoline "Kalosha".

The technology is simple: wet the rags with a lot of solvent and put a handle and a balloon at the junction, and you can put plastic on the junction to slow the evaporation, and after 15 to 20 minutes, the glue should swell and lose its adhesion, and then you can try to remove the pen with a spatula.

But chemistry has its drawbacks: Aggressive agents can damage the protective lacquer coating of tissue, make it matte or sticky, and it's difficult to completely remove the chemical from the pores of the tissue, which can negatively affect the adhesion of a new handle in the future. Residual solvent It will worsen the bonding of the new layer of glue.

Type of glue Recommended solvent Exposition time Risk for PVC
Polyurethane (2 comp.) Special flush, Ethylacetate 20-30 minutes Medium.
Polychloroprene Gasoline "Kalosha," Toluen 10-15 minutes Low.
Silicone sealant White Spirit, Anti-Silicon 5-10 minutes Low.
epoxy Not amenable (heating only >200ยฐC) - Highly
What to do if the solvent left stains?

If you have left a stain on the tissue after using the chemistry, try washing it with warm water with soft soap, and then drying it thoroughly. In some cases, treatment with a weak solution of alcohol helps, but first check the reaction on an inconspicuous area.

Surface cleaning after dismantling

Once the handle is removed, you will have a surface that needs to be prepared for new use, and the glue residues must be removed completely, and you can use a combination of heating and mechanical friction again, heat the glue residue with a hair dryer and roll it into the coils with a finger (in a glove) or a hard brush.

Finishing involves grinding. Use fine-grained sandpaper (240-400 grain) or an abrasive sponge. Walk around the former sticker in a light circular motion, which removes the oxidized layer of glue and creates the microroughness needed for better adhesion the next time you stick it.

The final step is degreasing. Rub the area with a rag moistened in the isopropyl Don't use tap water, because it can contain salts and chlorine, which will impair the quality of the gluing, and the surface should be perfectly clean, dry and matte.

  • ๐Ÿงผ Degreasing is carried out in movements from the center to the edges, so as not to smear the dirt.
  • ๐ŸŒก๏ธ Allow the surfaces to dry and cool completely before applying the new glue.
  • ๐Ÿ‘€ Visually inspect the fabric for microcracks or thinnings after cleaning.
๐Ÿ’ก

The quality of surface preparation after removing the old handle determines 90% of the success of installing a new fitting.

Typical errors and precautions

Many boat owners make mistakes trying to speed things up, and the most common is using a right angle knife, which is guaranteed to cause cuts, and the other is overheating of the fabric, and PVC starts to melt and deform at temperatures above 120-140 degrees, and if the fabric becomes sticky or changes color, you've overdrived your hair dryer.

Also, don't ignore safety, solvents and heated glue are toxic, work in a respirator and a ventilated room, get hot glue on your skin causes severe burns, so having a hot glue on your skin causes severe burns. gloves I'll be sure.

If the handle has been glued to a superglue (cyanacrylate), the situation becomes complicated: these adhesives form a rigid, glassy crust, which is dangerous to heat because of the acrid vapor, and it is risky to cut, in which case it is better to gently sand the top layer of the adhesive without reaching the fabric, and the residue is gently dissolved with a special flush for cyanacrylates.

โš ๏ธ Warning: Never use a razor blade without a depth limiter on inflated cylinders. Any sudden movement or pressure surge in the boat can lead to injury.

Can I use a safety razor blade?

Yes, it's a great tool for the final cleanup of the thin layer of glue, because it's very sharp and thin, but it needs to be done with extreme care, almost parallel to the surface, and only on deflated or slightly inflated cylinders.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions

What is better to heat glue: hair dryer or construction?

Hair dryer gives a maximum temperature of 60-70 degrees, which is not enough to soften most boat adhesives. A building hair dryer gives out 300 to 600 degrees, allowing the adhesive seam to be quickly heated.

Will there be a trace on the fabric after the pen is removed?

With careful operation and the right technology, there will be no trace cleaning, and it is possible to easily change the shade of the fabric (fading) under the handle, if the boat was long in operation, since this area was protected from ultraviolet light.

Can I put a new pen on immediately after removing the old one?

No, it's important to clean, degrease and dry the surface, and it's also recommended that the boat be laid out for a few hours so that the fabric takes its natural shape after being pulled down.

What to do if a piece of fabric is removed when removing the handle?

Don't panic. This area needs to be cleaned, degreased, and patched with the same material (PVC) to go over the entire edges, so once the patch has been vulcanized, you can glue a new pen onto it.

What glue to use to stick a new pen?

It is best to use two-component polyurethane adhesive (e.g. Kleyberg, Wurth, Teknipol or specialized adhesives for PVC boats) which ensures the best strength and elasticity of the seam.