Transporting a outboard motor is always stressful for the owner, especially when it comes to the vehicle. two-strokeUnlike four-stroke engines, these engines require strict adherence to the angle of inclination, since their crankcase and lubrication system always remain a certain amount of fuel mixture. candle-spout, getting oil into the cylinders and even failure of the crankshaft glands.
The situation is aggravated by the fact that the dimensions of most outboard motors do not allow you to place them vertically in a standard sedan or hatchback. outboard motorIgnoring these nuances often ends up with expensive repairs or the inability to start the engine on a pond.
In this article we will discuss all aspects of safe transportation: from the correct preparation of equipment to the legal subtleties of interaction with GIMS inspectors. You will learn how to minimize risks and deliver the unit to the water in perfect condition, saving its life.
Technical features of two-stroke engines during transportation
The main problem that two-stroke motorists face is the design of the crank mechanism, where the lubrication of the knots is done with oil added directly to the gasoline, when transported in a horizontal position or at the wrong angle. fuel-mix It can drain into the crankcase, creating excessive pressure or, conversely, draining important nodes, which leads to the fact that the first start of the engine can "sneeze", smoke or die.
In addition, two-stroke engines often have a simpler sealing system than four-stroke engines. Prolonged exposure to the side or upside position creates a risk of extruding the osteoils. shaft: if it is old or worn, the oil that has got inside can leak into the gearbox, mix with the transmission lubricant and disrupt the gears.
β οΈ Warning: Never carry an open-pipe engine. Even short-term air-locking can cause air to suction through the oil seals and fuel system to malfunction.
There is a perception that short-term side-carrying is not scary, and this is partly true of modern models with high-quality seals, but it is not worth the risk. It is better to spend 15 minutes preparing than to spend hours calcining candles or disassembling a carburetor. Tightness Systems are a key factor in success.
The myth of the βworking situationβ
Many people think that if the motor worked, the oil spread out and you can tilt it, and in fact, in two-strokes, the oil always tends to drain to the bottom point because of gravity, whether the motor worked or not.
Preparation of the engine for the trip: a step-by-step algorithm
There are a number of mandatory procedures that need to be done before you load the unit into the car. fuel-flowLeaving gasoline in the float chamber of the carburetor during prolonged parking or shaking on the road is strictly prohibited, which is fraught not only with a fire hazard situation, but also with coking of jelly-cutters.
After the fuel is drained, you have to disconnect the fuel hose from the engine connection. Let the residue of gasoline drain into the prepared container. If you use a remote tank, it's also better to unfasten it and transport it separately, securely fixed so that it does not roll around the cabin. fuel-pump It's empty and not under pressure.
- π Close the fuel crane on the engine to the position "Closed" or remove the hose completely.
- π§ Unscrew the drain screw on the gearbox (if you plan to store for a long time) or simply check the oil level.
- π Remove the battery if the motor has an electric starter and isolate the terminals.
- π§Ό Wipe the outer surface of the engine from traces of oil and gasoline, so as not to soil the cabin.
Pay special attention to the cooling system. After use, the water jacket is left in the water jacket. If you plan to transport in the winter, water. necessarily You have to blow it or drain it, or it will break the cylinder block when it freezes, and in summer it's less critical, but the presence of water inside can cause corrosion.
βοΈ Checklist for engine preparation
Accommodation options in a passenger car
There are several ways to place an outboard motor in a car, and the choice depends on the type of body and engine dimensions. verticalizationIf you have a station wagon, a minivan or an SUV with a high ceiling, try to hold the engine standing up, you can use special mounts or just securely lock it with hook straps in the trunk.
If you can't get vertical, you have to put the motor down, and here's the rule: you have to keep the engine on the side where it's on. exhaust They go up, or strictly on a lower unit (foot) if the design permits. Never put the motor on the cylinder head or on the ignition system (magneto), which can damage high-voltage wires and the coil.
To protect the interior, use a thick plastic film or a special case. Even after the fuel drain, there may be fumes or drops of oil inside, and put old blankets or foam for an outboard motor to extinguish vibrations and impacts on metal parts of the body while driving.
| Body type | Recommended provision | Risks. |
|---|---|---|
| sedan | Only on the side (with respect to the angle) | High risk of contamination of the cabin, difficult to fix |
| hatchback | On the side or at a 45Β° angle | Lack of space, risk of damage to the back shelf |
| Universal | Vertically or on the side | Minimum risks with proper fixation |
| Off-roader | Vertical (perfect) | Virtually absent |
Rules of fixation and protection of the salon
Safety depends not only on the position of the motor, but also on the quality of its attachment. In the case of a sharp braking or accident, an unfixed load weighing 30-50 kg turns into a projectile that can cause serious injuries to passengers. Use regular seat belts, if size allows, or special ones. tie-belt with a snoring mechanism.
Interior protection is a separate topic. Two-stroke engines always sweat with oil. Even if the body is dry, there may be residues of mixture inside the exhaust system and lower unit. Use multi-layer protection: first dense fabric or cardboard, then polyethylene. Make sure that polyethylene does not slide across the interior skin.
If the motor has a long lower unit leg, take care to protect the screw. It should not be against plastic or body metal. It is best to remove the screw (if you have skills and tools) or securely close it with a soft material. anticavitational I didn't scratch the skin.
β οΈ Warning: Don't use thin ropes or tape to lock the motor; they can burst or stretch under load; only strong belts with reliable mounting units.
Use old car mats as a motor lining, they have an anti-slip coating and absorb oil leaks perfectly, protecting the trunk skin.
Legal aspects and requirements of GIMS
The legality of carrying an outboard motor in a car is often controversial, and according to the GIMS rules, the transportation of an internal combustion engine in the cabin or trunk of a personal car is a matter of law. freeHowever, inspectors may pay attention to the smell of gasoline or open containers of fuel.
It is strictly forbidden to carry gasoline in plastic canisters from under water or in glass containers, the fuel must be in specialized metal or certified plastic canisters labeled "Penzine", the smell of fuel vapor in the cabin can be a reason for inspection and fine for violation of fire safety regulations.
If you are stopped, be calm. The engine is property and you have the right to transport it. The main thing is the absence of open fire, smoking in the car and the presence of properly closed containers with fuel. Motor documents (check, PCM) are desirable to have with you, although they are rarely required.
The law does not prohibit the driving of the engine in the car, but requires compliance with the rules of transportation of dangerous goods (fuel) and fire safety.
Actions after arrival in the water body
Once you get the motor to the water, don't rush it right away. Let the engine stand upright for at least 10 to 15 minutes. This is to get the oil that gets into the cylinders and the crankcase when you're transporting it back to the bottom of the crankcase. If you start the motor right away, you can get the oil back to the bottom of the crankcase. hydrostroke Or a lot of smoke.
Check the spark plug. If it's wet with oil, wipe it and burn it on fire or replace it with a dry one. Blow the cylinder by pulling the starter (or starter cord) several times when the candle is turned out, which will remove the excess fuel mixture from the combustion chamber.
Put the fuel hose on, pump the pear until resistance occurs, make sure there is no air suction, and then you can start the engine, and if the engine is not running smoothly for the first few minutes, that's normal, it has to produce the residues of the mixture that got there during the transport.
What if the engine does not start after transportation?
First, check the candle. If it's filled with oil, it needs to be cleaned or replaced. Also, make sure the fuel system has gasoline and the tap is open. If the engine has been lying on its side for a long time, maybe oil has hit the carburetor that has disrupted the mix -- try blowing the system out or letting the engine stand up vertically longer.
Can I drive the motor in a trailer?
Yes, it's the best option. In a trailer, you can put the motor vertically on a transom board, like a boat, and that completely eliminates the risks of oil leakage and problems with starting, and the main thing is to securely secure the boat and the engine with belts so that they do not get blown away by the wind or on turns.
Do I need to drain oil from the gearbox during transportation?
No, the gearbox oil doesn't need to be drained, it's in a closed loop below water level (dadewood) and it's sealed, it only drains when it's replaced or repaired, and if the gearboxes work properly, it's safe to transport in any position.
Compliance with these simple but important rules will keep the outboard motor in working order for many years. two-stroke Sensitive to carelessness, but grateful for the proper care, safe road and smooth water!