Installation of the system remote-control DTS is one of the most significant steps in modernizing a swimming vehicle, turning chaotic jigs behind a rumpell into comfortable and accurate driving. Many owners of PVC boats or small boats put up with inconveniences for years, not realizing that switching to a romple gas or a full-fledged console with levers can be implemented with their hands without resorting to expensive services. A properly mounted system not only increases comfort, but also significantly improves safety of operation, allowing the operator to always maintain a stable position and visibility.
In the process of modernization, it is critical to take into account the compatibility of components, since modern electronically The control systems are very different from the old mechanical ones. gas If you're running a 15 hp engine or higher, you're going to have to put your harnesses in, adjust your position sensors, and calibrate your servos. Mistakes in the design phase of tracing cables or electrical circuits can cause the engine to run in a way that's unstable or even damaged, so you have to be very engineering-oriented.
Before you start purchasing equipment, you need to clearly define your current system type and desired outcome. There are several basic connection schemes, each with its own installation and maintenance requirements. In this article, we will take a detailed look at all the steps from the selection of components to the final test break-in so that you can get the job done professionally and safely.
Selection of control system type and compatible components
The first and most important step is to determine the type of system that will suit your needs. boat-engineThe market offers two main ways of development: mechanical systems with cables (Cable Control) and fully electronic systems (Digital Throttle and Shift - DTS). Yamaha C2 or Mercury C2They rely on the physical movement of the lever, which transmits force through the cables to the carburetor or throttle valve, and they are reliable, easy to diagnose, but require careful lubrication and corrosion protection, especially in salt water.
The electronic systems that are being used on today's Yamaha, Tohatsu and Suzuki engines use electrical signals to control the throttle and gear shifts. There are no gas cables, and the control levers only send commands to the engine. ECU It's incredibly smooth, it's easy to integrate with cartplotters and autopilots, but it requires the proper wiring and often the purchase of expensive original kits, and it's important to understand that switching from mechanics to electronics on older motor models may not be cost-effective.
When choosing components, pay attention to the length of the cables, if you are staying on the mechanics. Standard lengths range from 10 feet (3 meters) to 22 feet (6.7 meters) or more. Incorrect choice of length will either lead to the inability to fully open the throttle, or to the formation of hinges and clamps inside the cockpit, which is unacceptable. It is also worth checking the type of attachment of the control unit itself (board, transpool or console), since there are almost no universal solutions.
⚠️ Warning: Never mix components from different manufacturers without a deep understanding of their design. Teleflex leverage Yamaha without adapters can lead to jamming of the throttle in the open position, which poses a direct safety threat.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
A high-quality remote control installation is not possible without the right tool; you will need not only a standard set of screwdrivers and wrenches, but also specialized equipment for working with electricity and metal. Particular attention should be paid to tools for laying cables, since in the limited space of the boat often have to act “to the touch”.
Electrical connections require a high-quality soldering iron, shrink tubes and crimping mites for terminals. The use of simple insulation in marine conditions is strictly prohibited - moisture and salt fog will quickly destroy the contact, leading to system failure. Also prepare a multimeter to check the integrity of the chains and voltage, which will be critical at the diagnostic stage.
The list of necessary equipment and consumables should be formed in advance, so as not to interrupt the work process:
- 🛠️ Toolkit: rattles, set of heads, pliers, cutters, set of screwdrivers (cross and slats).
- ⚡ Electricity: soldering iron, solder, flux, thermal shrinkage, crimping terminals, insulation (quality, sea), multimeter.
- 🔩 Fastening: stainless bolts, nuts, washers, clamps for fixing cables and wires, silicone sealant.
- 📏 Markup: roulette, metal marker, level, wire-drive (probe).
Workplace preparation also includes ensuring good lighting and ventilation, especially if the boat is in a garage or in a closed parking lot. Make sure the boat's battery is fully charged, as the setup of electronic systems may require multiple ignition and pumping of the system.
Use silicone spray lubricant to treat rubber seals when cables pass through bulkheads – this will prevent them from drying out and cracking over time.
Dismantling the old system and preparing the transcen
The upgrade process begins with the dismantling of existing equipment, and if a humming wheel is installed on the motor, it must be carefully removed, first disconnecting all electrical connectors going to the emergency stop sensor and the ignition coil. Be careful with the wires: old insulation often becomes fragile and can burst at the slightest bending, so it is better to immediately replace areas with signs of failure.
When removing the old control unit (if any) or the tiller gas, carefully examine the trunk of the boat. Often under the old fasteners you find hidden pockets of corrosion or damage to the material of the board. If you move from the rummel to the remote lever, you will need to drill new holes. metal-drill with cobalt coating and be sure to use a centered drill to avoid displacement of the hole.
After drilling the holes, the edge needs to be thoroughly cleaned of burrs and treated with anti-corrosion compounds. For metal boats, this can be zinc-containing soil, for fiberglass boats, epoxy resin. Installation of a new control unit requires sealing the entry points of the fasteners. Use a quality marine sealant, applying it not only to the base of the lever, but also to the bolts before puffling.
| Type of boat | Recommended sealant | Polymerization time | Features of training |
|---|---|---|---|
| aluminum | Polyurethane (e.g. Sikaflex 291i) | 24 hours. | Acetone degreasing, metal stripping |
| Fiberglass | Epoxy or polyurethane | 12:24 hours. | Removal of gelcoat at the point of contact, grinding |
| PVC (inflatable) | Specialized PVC adhesive | 48 hours. | Use of transition plates, accuracy |
| Tree. | Thicol or polyurethane | 24-48 hours | Antiseptic treatment, double sealing |
Once the control lever body is installed, check the smoothness of the lever. The mechanism should not have backlashes, but should not jam. If you install a neutral system (return to zero), make sure that the spring mechanism works clearly and the lever always returns to the center position when released.
Installation of control cables and laying of trails
The most time-consuming part of the job, which requires patience and accuracy, is the basic rule of remote control cables installation: the bend radius should not be less than the minimum permissible radius specified by the manufacturer (usually at least 20-25 cm).
Use the flexible wire (conductor) method to lay the wire from the lever to the motor, choosing a route that excludes contact with moving parts, sharp edges and heat sources. The cables must be securely fixed by the clamps every 30-40 cm to prevent vibration and rubbing against the boat hull.
☑️ Checking the cables
When you connect the cables to the motor, you need to fine-tune the length of the outer shell, and most modern motors have the ability to adjust the cable directly on the motor bracket. Adjustment It is made in such a way that the throttle is completely closed at the idling position, and when the lever is fully operated, it opens 100%. Insufficient opening of the valve will not allow the motor to develop full power, and excess can lead to damage to the mechanism.
Pay special attention to the gearshift cable. It has to have a small backlash at the extreme positions to ensure that the gears of the gears of the gears are fully engaged. If the gear is pulled, the gearshift mechanism may not fully engage, which will lead to slippage and overheating of the clutch. If the stroke is too large, you risk not turning on the gear at all.
⚠️ Warning: When laying cables through bulkheads or holes in the sides, be sure to use rubber seals (sleeves), and getting water inside the boat through these holes is one of the most common causes of flooding and corrosion of structural elements.
Connecting the electrical part and setting up the DTS
If you choose to use an electronic control system or a motor with an electric starter and a tachometer, you need to have a smart electric connection. DTS There can be as many as a dozen wires, and it's very easy to mix them up. Always use the color labels and circuits provided by the engine manufacturer.
All connections must be soldered and insulated by a shrink tube with adhesive layer. Sea twists are a temporary solution that quickly oxidizes. To protect against moisture, it is recommended to additionally treat the joints with a contact spray that displaces water. Pay special attention to the emergency stop wire - it must be connected directly to the ignition system and have a minimum number of connections.
The main contacts connection scheme (example for Yamaha):Red (+12V) -> Battery through fuse
Black (GND) -> Engine mass
Blue (Tach) -> Tachometer
Yellow/Red -> Emergency stop
Once all the wires are physically connected, you need to calibrate the system. Electronic throttles often require a "training" procedure for extreme positions, usually by turning on the ignition, putting the lever to its extreme position and holding it for a few seconds before the beep. The exact sequence of actions for your motor model can be found in the service manual.
How to check the integrity of the wire harness?
To test the harness, use the multimeter in vertebrae mode. Unplug the connectors at both ends. alternately connect the probes to contacts of the same color. If resistance is close to zero, the wire is intact. If resistance is infinitely high, the cliff. Also check for no mass circuit (boat or engine body).
Diagnosis, testing and frequent errors
The final step is to test the system in a comprehensive manner. Before you start the engine, make sure that the control lever is in the neutral position. Turn on the ignition and check the indicators on the dashboard. Try to smoothly move the lever forward: you should hear the characteristic click of the transmission and see the opening of the throttle valve (visually or by changing the position sensor readings if you have access to diagnostics).
When testing on the water (required on moorings or in safe waters), pay attention to the delay in the reaction of the motor. In electronic systems, the minimum delay is permissible, but it should not exceed a fraction of a second. If the motor reacts with jerks or stalls when abrupt addition of gas, it may be necessary to recalibrate the throttle position sensor (TPS).
The most common errors made during installation:
- ❌ Insufficient sealing of holes in the transom, leading to the intake of water.
- ❌ Tension of the cables, because of which the lever does not return to the neutral on its own.
- ❌ Use of insufficient cross-section wires, causing a voltage drop at the starter.
- ❌ Ignoring the need to lubricate the hinge joints of the cables.
Regular maintenance of the installed system will prolong its life, at least once a season, you need to remove the caps from the cable joints and update the lubrication, as well as check the tightening of all electrical contacts. Visual inspection of the cables for damage to the outer shell is also mandatory.
The main secret of the long-term operation of the control system is the correct initial setting of the tension of the cables and high-quality sealing of all entry points into the boat hull.
Questions and Answers (FAQ)
Can I install the electronic control on the old motor?
Theoretically possible, but economically impractical: It would require replacing the control unit, the harnesses, perhaps the ECU itself, the motor and the dashboard, the cost of the kit and the work often exceeds the cost of the motor itself, and it would be easier and more reliable to install a high-quality mechanical rompel gas with cables.
How often do I need to change the control cables?
The life of the cables depends on the operating conditions: in salt water, their life is 3-5 years, in fresh water - up to 7-10 years; Replacement is required when jerks appear, obstruction or visible damage to the shell; Preventive replacement every 5 years is good practice.
Why does the control lever not return to neutral?
The reasons may be the weakening of the return spring inside the control unit, the pulling of the gearshift cable or the contamination of the mechanism with sand and dirt, you need to remove the casing, clean the mechanism and check the tension of the cable.
Do I need to lubricate the cables inside the shell?
Modern cables (like the Teleflex SSC) are Teflon coated and don't require lubrication inside the shell, it only collects dirt. Only external hinges and friction points are lubricated against the body. Old cables have sometimes been lubricated with graphite, but it's better to replace them.