Remote control system (DU) installation is one of the most popular types of tuning for small outboard motors, which were originally completed only with a tiller. gas-reverse It greatly enhances the comfort of steering a vessel, especially when crossing long distances or fishing in windy weather, and instead of pulling the starter cord and spinning the gas handle, you get a full-fledged steering wheel and levers located in a convenient cockpit location.
The modernization process requires not only the mechanical installation of cables, but also the competent connection of the electrical part, since modern motors are often equipped with an emergency engine stop system and oil pressure sensors. wire-wiring They can cause the power unit to work in an unstable way, or even the electronic control unit to fail, so it's important to follow the factory patterns and use quality materials.
In this article, we will take a look at all the steps of refitting, from kit selection to final setup and check the tightness of the connections, you will learn what tools you will need to work and how to avoid the typical mistakes of beginners, so that your boat becomes safer and more comfortable to operate.
Selection of equipment and preparation of tools
The first step is to find a compatible remote control kit. For most popular 2- to 20-hp motor models, there are universal sets that include a control unit (machine), throttle and gear control cables, and a wire harness. It is important to pay attention to the length of the cables, which is selected individually depending on the dimensions of your boat and the location of the remote. Standard dimensions vary from 3 to 6 meters, but for larger boats, longer options may be required.
In addition to the main kit, you will need additional supplies to ensure the durability of the system. Sea wiring It should be resistant to salt water, ultraviolet light and temperature changes. Do not use conventional car wiring, as its insulation will quickly become unusable in an aggressive aqueous environment. It will also require shrink tubes, silicone sealant, screeds and tin-coated terminals for reliable fixation of contacts.
You need a standard set of tools to do the job: you need wrenches, screwdrivers, borcotores, a stripper to clean wires and a multimeter to check chains, and you need to pay special attention to a tool to cut plastic and metal, as you may need to carefully drill holes in the transom or on the side of a boat to lay the cables.
- 🛠️ A set of wrenches and heads for dismantling the casings.
- ✂️ Pieces and a knife to clean the wire insulation.
- 🔌 A soldering iron and solder to create reliable connections.
- 📏 Roulette and marker for mounting places.
Mechanical installation of control cables
Installation begins with the installation of the reverse gas control unit itself in the selected location on board, most often it is attached to a special bracket or directly on board, if the design of the boat allows. The main requirement is to ensure the free flow of the lever and protection from splashes. Once the body is fixed, you can start laying the cables that transmit mechanical force from the levers to the engine.
The cables must be laid along the shortest path, but with important safety rules. The radius of bending the cable should not be less than the minimum permissible value specified in the instructions (usually at least 30 cm), otherwise the cable can jam or break. Use plastic clamps to fix the cable along the side, avoiding places where it can rub against metal or sharp corners.
⚠️ Attention! When laying cables, avoid high-temperature areas, such as near an exhaust manifold or high-voltage electrical wires, and overheating the cable can cause it to deform and jam the mechanism.
The cables are connected to the engine through special levers on the Daydwund. First, the gearshift cable is installed, then the throttle cable is installed. The cable length is adjusted by rotating the threaded tips. You need to achieve a position that in the neutral position of the gas-reverse lever, the engine is idle (or worked on idles), and the gear shifting is clearly, without lashes and japs.
☑️ Checking the rope mechanics
Scheme of connection of the electrical part
The electrical circuitry for connecting the distance is critical because it controls the ignition system and the engine emergency stop. Most outboard motors use a mass-closing system to stop the engine, which means that when you pull checks or move the lever to the stop position, the ignition circuit closes on the engine body, interrupting spark formation.
A standard SD wire harness usually contains several basic color markings that must be combined with the corresponding motor terminals: the red wire most often goes to the terminal of the emergency stop (kill switch), black - to the mass, and yellow or gray can be responsible for the indicator of oil pressure or battery charging, if such a function is provided by the design.
To connect, use the soldering method followed by thermal shrinkage. The wire twists in vibration and humidity quickly oxidize and lose contact, which can lead to spontaneous motor stop on water. All connections must be carefully sealed.
| Color of wire (DU Block) | Function | Where to plug in on the motor | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red (Red) | Emergency stop | The Kill Switch/Stop Tram | Closes the mass. |
| Black (Black) | Total mass | Engine body / Minus AKB | Grounding the system |
| Yellow (Yellow) | Oil sensor. | Oil pressure sensor | Optionally. |
| Blue (Blue) | Charge indicator | Rectifier (Rectifier) | For four-stroke engines |
Sensor connectivity nuances
If your motor is not equipped with an oil pressure sensor, the corresponding wire (usually yellow) must be isolated and left free. Connecting it to the mass can cause a constant alarm on the control unit indicator.
Sealing of compounds and protection against moisture
Water and salt are the main enemies of any electronics on the boat. Even a brief ingress of moisture inside the connecting pad can cause corrosion of contacts and system failure. So the issue of sealing should be given maximum attention. All the places of entry of wires into the body of the control unit and into the engine should be treated with silicone sealant.
Use specialised preservative sprays for electrical contacts after installation is complete, create a thin protective film that repels water and prevents oxidation, and regularly check the condition of sealing gums on the control unit, especially after winter storage.
For added protection, you can use corrugated tubes with an internal sticky tape, which, when heated, fits tightly around the wire harness, creating a completely waterproof channel, and this is especially true for areas that pass under the floorboard or in the boat's hold, where water can accumulate.
Use dielectric lubrication inside the connectors before connecting them, which displaces air and moisture, providing stable contact even when immersed in water.
Adjustment and configuration of the system
After the mechanical installation and electrical connections are complete, you need to carefully adjust the system. Start by checking the gear lever. When you move the lever from the neutral forward or backward, you should hear a clear click, and Daydwund should turn to the appropriate position. If the switch is too tight or delayed, you need to twist the adjustment nuts on the tip of the cable.
Then the throttle is adjusted. It is important to set the cable so that when the lever is fully opened, the valve opens 100%, and when it returns to neutral, it closes completely, ensuring stable idling speeds. Incorrect setting can lead to the motor not developing full power or will stall at idle.
Be sure to check the emergency stop system. When pulling safety checks or moving the lever to the stop position, the engine should immediately stop. If this does not happen, check the reliability of the red wire contact with the mass and the integrity of the circuit.
- 🔧 Check the tension of the cable: it should not sag or be pulled.
- ⚙️ Make sure the lever returns to neutral with a characteristic click.
- 🛑 Test the emergency stop only on land or on a tether, with caution.
- 🌊 Grease all movable joints with water resistant lubrication.
Frequent errors in installation and their elimination
One of the most common mistakes is to ignore the direction of the cables. If the cables are steeply curved or cross at a sharp angle, their life is significantly reduced. The inner braid can damage, which will lead to a rupture of the mechanism at the most inopportune time. Always follow the recommended bend radius.
Another common problem is poor electrical circuit contact, where poor-quality twists instead of soldering or plugs cause the control signal to be lost, the engine may not start or die at high speeds due to vibrations that disrupt the contact at the twisting site. Always use soldering or crimping terminals.
⚠️ Attention! Never leave the ends of the cables open without protective caps. Getting sand and dirt inside the cable braid will quickly disable the mechanism, turning smooth control into jerky and tight.
Don't forget to protect the control unit itself. If you have installed it in a place that is spatter-proof or rain-proof, be sure to use a protective cover or casing. Getting water inside the control unit mechanism can cause springs and levers to corrosion, requiring expensive repairs or replacement of the unit.
High-quality sealing and proper laying of cables without sharp bends is the key to a long and trouble-free operation of the remote control system.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can you set the distance to a two-stroke motor without a battery?
Yes, you can. The mechanical part (gas and reverse cables) will work regardless of whether there's a battery. However, if the motor requires electricity to spark (electronic ignition), you still need the battery to start and run the engine. If you have a motor with magdino and contact interrupters, it can work without battery, but the reverse lever will function mechanically.
How often should remote control cables be lubricated?
It is recommended to lubricate the cables at least once a season, preferably before navigation, to do this, partially pull the cable from the braid, clean the old lubricant and dirt, and apply a new water-resistant lubricant, which will ensure smooth running and protect against corrosion.
What if the reverse lever starts to run too tight?
First, check if the cable channels are clogged with dirt or sand. If there are no mechanical obstacles, the cable may be too tight or damaged by the inner braid. Try loosening the adjustment nut. If the problem is not solved, the cable is better replaced, since it can be dangerous to jam it on water.
Are universal distance sets compatible with engines of different brands?
Most of the universal kits are suitable for Tohatsu, Mercury, Yamaha, Honda and their Chinese counterparts. However, the mounting points and length of the threaded tips may differ. Before buying, it is recommended to check the kit manufacturer's compatibility table or measure the length of the cables on your particular motor.