Fishing on a river with strong currents is not only trophies, but also a constant challenge for a boater, requiring impeccable mastery of anchoring skills. When the flow of water carries the boat and the fish refuses to peck in a moving boat, the only way out is to rigidly fix the position with two anchors, which allows you to turn the boat nose or stern against the current, ensuring the stability and safety of the crew even when the wind is amplified.
The use of a double anchor, often called a "brascoriaku" setting, dramatically changes the dynamics of the vessel on the water. Unlike a single anchor, which allows the boat to prowl the arc, two multidirectional loads create a rigid tension system. It's important to understandThe incorrect organization of anchor ropes (lines) can lead to their overhang or, worse, to the loss of control boat at a critical moment.
In this article, we will take a look at the layout, equipment choices, and nuances that are not covered in simple instructions. You will learn how to prepare anchorages in advance so as not to deal with tangled ropes in the midst of a storm or in a strong current. Water safety begins with proper training, and double anchoring is one of the key skills for any serious angler.
Selection of equipment: anchors and ropes for flow
Before we talk about the schemes, we need to figure out the hardware itself. For the flow, ordinary store cat anchors are often useless, because they are designed for soil with good engagement, rather than keeping the boat on the stream. anchor Denforth or anchor HallThe weight of the anchor should be selected with a margin: for PVC boats 3.5-4 meters long in the middle current, the minimum weight of each anchor should not be less than 4-5 kg.
Special attention should be paid to anchor rope, which is impractical because of its weight, which will bend the boat and create extra sail, and the best choice would be a synthetic cord made of polyamide or polyester with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Polypropylene It is better not to use, as it is hard in the cold and quickly rubbed against the side. The length of each rope should be at least two depths at the fishing site, but it is optimal to have a reserve of 15-20 meters for maneuvers.
⚠️ Warning: Never tie the anchor rope directly to the PVC dice on the boat's PVC cylinder. In a sharp jerk or strong current, a thin metal can cut through the balloon or be torn with "meat." Use only anchor rings or special load-distributing stretchers.
To control tension and rapid return of anchors, it is convenient to use special devices - anchor-off Or simple carbines with vertebrae, which allows you to quickly change the configuration without choosing the entire rope, and it is also useful to have separate bags or bags for storing anchors on board, so that sand and silt do not soil equipment and clothing.
Scheme "Vraskoryak": classic staging across the flow
The most common and effective way to fish in the river is to position the boat across the current, with the bow and stern anchored, where the boat has minimal resistance to water, and the fishing rods that are hung from the sides are in a stable position, and to implement this scheme, you first have to be a nose against the current and give the bow anchor, putting the rope until the boat is stretched along the stream.
After fixing the nose anchor, slowly passing back or working with the engine at low speeds, you need to move downstream and give the aft anchor. Key point It should be such that when both ropes are stretched, the boat is in the middle, and the angles of separation of the ropes from the bottom are sharp. If the distance is too small, the boat will rock very hard; if it is too large, it will shift to the side when the wind gusts.
- 🎣 Armor the anchor so that the tension line of the ropes passes through diametrically opposite points of the side for maximum stability.
- 🌊 Consider the change in water level: if a high tide or discharge of water from a hydroelectric power station is expected, leave a sufficient reserve of rope length.
- ⚓ Use bright buoys or floats at the end of anchor ropes if there is a risk of hooking up to the snags at the bottom.
If you're properly squeezing, the boat doesn't really scour side to side, but you have to remember that when you're in a strong side wind, the boat can start turning around, and you have to pull one of the ropes or put the weight on the side opposite to the wind. Security requires constant monitoring of the condition of the ropes, especially if there is a large transport on the river that creates a wave.
☑️ Pre-staging check
The production of "Razbezku": features and application
The runaway (or fan) scheme is used less frequently and in specific conditions, such as when you need to lock the boat on a very strong current where the single anchor breaks, in which case both anchors are pulled from the nose, but at different angles, creating a triangle effect that keeps the boat's nose strictly against the flow, preventing it from prowling, but the stern in this case remains free and can dangle from side to side, which is not always convenient for fishing.
There is also the option of both anchors being off the stern, but for fishing it is practically not used because of the danger of flooding the wave into the boat. The main advantage of the two-head anchor scheme is the ability to quickly remove the boat from anchors simply by choosing one of the ropes. Safety techniques in such a setting requires the presence of a reliable vertebrae on each rope so that the twisting of the ropes does not lead to their break.
When you use a runaway circuit, it's important to correctly calculate the length of the ropes. If one rope is much longer than the other, the entire load will fall on the short one, and the second anchor will become useless ballast. The ideal situation is when both ropes are pulled evenly. anchor-clutch Or simple locking nodes fixed on ducks.
⚠️ Warning: When placing two anchors from the nose, never wind the ropes on the arm or leg. If a boat jerks sharply or if the anchor is chosen by the current, you can get severe limb injury or be thrown overboard.
Table: Comparison of anchoring schemes
For clarity, we'll give you a comparative description of the main methods so you can choose the best option for your particular fishing conditions, and the choice depends not only on the strength of the current, but also on the size of the boat and the experience of the crew.
| Parameter | One anchor (Nose) | Two anchors (Wraskoryaku) | Two anchors (Run from the nose) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resistance to flow | Medium ( yaw) | High (hard fixation) | Very tall (nose fixed) |
| Resistance to wind | Low (unwrapping) | Medium (depending on angles) | High. |
| Difficulty staging | Low. | Medium (requires motor/fun) | High (need accuracy) |
| Risk of rope overhang | Missing. | Medium (under the boat) | Tall (to the nose) |
| Recommended application | Weak current, parking. | Fishing, mid-current | Strong current, overnight. |
What to do if the anchors are caught on the snag?
If you're sampling an anchor with a dead hook, don't try to pull as hard as you can with your motor, which can damage a transom or turn the boat over. Try to get right over the hook and pick the rope vertically. If it doesn't work, use a thrust load or a special anchor hook that slides off when you're thrusting in the opposite direction. In extreme cases, you'll have to dive or cut the rope, leaving the buoy on the surface.
Algorithm of actions: step-by-step instructions
The process of anchoring requires a well-established sequence of actions, and the chaos on deck as the boat is flowing can lead to trouble, so everything must be done in advance. Algorithm It should be automatic, especially if you are fishing alone.
First, prepare both anchors: check the free passage of the ropes, make sure they are not tangled. Take a position upstream from the intended fishing site. Give the first (nose) anchor and eject the rope as you move backwards or back on the motor. When the boat stretches outstream, fix the bowstroke. Then, without choosing the anchor, slowly surrender even more back, while preparing the second anchor for recoil.
- 🛶 Give the second anchor (stern) and slowly pull the boat towards it, choosing a bow rope until the boat gets across the current.
- 🔗 Lock the ropes on ducks or in tensioners, leaving a small sag for cushioning jerks.
- 👀 Visually check the angles of tension: the ropes should diverge from the boat in a fan up and downstream.
If you use motor For maneuvering, keep an eye on battery power, because it can take time to control the current when you set it up. In windy weather, the algorithm gets complicated: the wind can blow the stern, preventing the correct installation, in which case it is advisable to first anchor on the leeward side, so that it serves as a guide.
Use colored markers or tape on anchor ropes (e.g. blue for the nose, red for the stern) to help you instantly understand in the dark or under stress what kind of rope you are holding in your hands.
Typical errors and security measures
Even experienced water-engineers sometimes make mistakes that can cost equipment or health on the flow. The most common mistake is not enough rope length. In deep places with fast current, a short rope creates a vertical angle of separation, which helps to pull the anchor out of the ground. Rule. It says: the length of the rope should be at least 3-4 times greater depth.
The second mistake is to tie the rope to the structural elements of the boat, not designed for loads on the tear. pens, liner racks or plastic rims can not withstand the jerk of a full boat with a crew and trophies. Always use reinforced rings welded into a metal profile or securely sewn to PVC stringers boats. Strength The anchor is a guarantee that the anchor will not fly away with a piece of the board.
⚠️ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to choose an anchor by winding a rope on the engine or propeller, this is guaranteed to break the lower unit or cut the veneer. The anchor is selected only by hands or using a special anchor winch / jack.
Also worth mentioning is the risk of "crossover." If you're standing on the current and the boats that are making the wave pass, the boat can start to spin. If the ropes cross under the bottom, the boat can flip or damage the cylinders/hull. If you're worried, it's better to take one anchor and go to a single anchor or drift.
The basic principle of safety in the current is that it is better to lose anchor by cutting the rope than to lose a boat or a life trying to save cheap equipment in a critical situation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What weight anchor is needed for a PVC boat 3.5 meters on the current?
For a boat with a length of 3.5 meters with a full load (fisher + equipment) on the middle current, it is recommended to use two anchors weighing 3.5-4 kg each. If the current is strong or the bottom is clay, the weight is better to increase to 5 kg. The main thing is not so much the weight as the shape of the anchor (ability to burrow) and the length of the rope.
Can I use one anchor and motor to hold my position?
Technically, it's possible, but it's inefficient and dangerous. It's going to run on wear, it's going to run on fuel or battery power, it's going to make noise that scares the fish away, and if it fails, it's going to turn the boat instantly across the current, which can tip over, and the two anchors are a passive and reliable system.
What to do if the anchor rope rubbed against a shell or stone?
Regularly inspect the lower part of the rope (about 1-2 meters from the anchor). If you notice damage to the pile or cuts, this section should be cut off, and the anchor assembly should be tied higher. You can not use the damaged rope on a strong current - it can burst at the moment of maximum tension.
Do you need a vertebra between the anchor and the rope?
Yes, the vertebra is highly desirable, and when you're choosing an anchor or navigating a boat, the rope can twist to form a "ram's horn," which reduces strength and interferes with styling, and a high-quality stainless steel vertebra will prevent the synthetic cable from twisting.