There comes a time when the navigation ends, and the owner of the water equipment faces a critical question of how to keep the engine safe during the cold. two-stroke It can turn expensive equipment into scrap metal by next season, and aggressive environments, fuel and moisture residues, all do their job if you don't take timely protective measures.
Many beginners mistakenly believe that it is enough to simply drain gasoline and remove the unit into the garage, but the chemical processes inside the carburetor and crank chamber continue even when the state is turned off. Corrosion And resinous deposits can jam the piston group or destroy the membranes of the carburetor in a few months of downtime, which is why competent preparation for winter storage is not just a recommendation, but a mandatory technical requirement for the extension of your life. Outboard.
In this article, we will discuss in detail each stage of preparation, from washing the cooling system to choosing the optimal place for storage. fuel-mixture It's dangerous for the engine, how to properly treat the internal cavities from rust, and what mistakes owners often make when preserving equipment, and following these rules ensures that your engine starts the first time in the spring.
Primary washing and visual inspection of the unit
The first and most obvious step is to thoroughly clean the outer surfaces of the motor from dirt, salt deposits and algae. If you have operated a boat at sea or in salt water, freshwater rinsing becomes a critical procedure, since salt is the main catalyst. electrochemical corrosionIt is best to wash the engine on special stands or in a barrel of water, avoiding hitting a strong jet directly into the electric connectors and air filter.
During washing, you should carefully inspect lower unit for chipped paint and deep scratches that can become foci of rust. Any damage to the paint coating should be immediately painted with anti-corrosion primer or special paint for the use of rust. outboard motorsAlso check the condition of the lower unit bearing and glands: if traces of oil in the water or backlash of the paddle shaft are noticeable, it is better to replace the seals before frost.
☑️ Checklist of the initial examination
Pay special attention to the system of fastening the motor to the transom, as vibrations during the season could weaken the bolts or damage rubber dampers. Visual control It also includes checking the fuel hoses for cracks and loss of elasticity, which is especially important for equipment that has been operated under direct sunlight.
Fuel system: drain, wash and stabilization
The most vulnerable part of any gasoline engine in long-term downtime is the fuel system, where the residues of gasoline begin to oxidize and decay into fractions. Modern ethanol fuel is especially aggressive: it is hygroscopic, which means it actively absorbs moisture from the air, which leads to the stratification of the mixture and precipitation. carburetorAnd the resinous deposits can stick the valve needle firmly, making starting the engine impossible.
⚠️ Warning: Never leave gasoline in the carburetor float chamber for the winter, as the light fractions evaporate and the heavy ones turn into a sticky substance that will require complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning of the carburetor.
To properly conserve, you need to extract all the gasoline from the float chamber, allowing the engine to work on the residue of fuel until it stops completely. If this is not possible, the carburetor should be carefully empty through the drainage hole, which is on many models. Yamaha or TohatsuAfter the fuel is drained, it is recommended to blow the fuel lines and the carburetor with compressed air to remove any residue of liquid from hard-to-reach channels.
In case you plan to store a full tank motor (which is sometimes recommended to prevent condensation), be sure to add a special fuel to the engine. stabilizerIt's a chemical additive that prevents gasoline from oxidizing and keeps it going for 12 to 24 months. Mixing proportions are usually listed on the stabilizer package, and it's important to add it to fresh gasoline, and then let the engine run for a few minutes to get the mixture into all the components of the system.
Effects of ethanol on rubber seals
Gasoline containing ethanol can cause swelling and destruction of some rubber used in old fuel hoses and carburetor diaphragms. When switching to fuel with an alcohol content of above 10%, it is recommended to replace all rubber fuel system elements with compatible analogues.
Conservation of the cylinder-piston group and lubrication
The inner surfaces of the cylinders and crankshaft bearings in two-stroke engines are lubricated with oil dissolved in gasoline, so when they are down, they are left unprotected. If you just leave the engine dry, moisture from the air inevitably condenses on metal surfaces, causing spot corrosion, which on the first start will turn into abrasive, destroying the metal surfaces. piston-ringTo avoid this, you have to create a protective oil film on all the rubbing parts.
The CNG conservation procedure begins with the spark plugs being twisted, and then about 10-15 ml of special preservation oil or conventional two-stroke oil is injected into each cylinder. Some experts recommend using aerosol lubricants with a high content of anti-corrosion additives that better envelop the walls. After injection, you need to turn the crankshaft with a starter several times (by previously turning off the ignition or placing candles in place to create compression), so that the oil is evenly distributed throughout the surface.
| Type of lubricant | Method of application | Effectiveness of protection | Difficulty in removal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Motor 2T oil | Syringe through candle hole | Medium | Burns at launch |
| Preservation spray | Spraying into cylinder | High. | Requires flushing |
| Graphite lubrication | Deposition on the shaft | Very high. | Difficult cleaning |
| WD-40 (regular) | Spraying | Low (not for CPG) | Easy. |
Be sure to also lubricate the gas cable and the humming device if it has a mechanical connection, as frozen grease can cause the throttle to jam in the open position. For lower unit shaft bearings and other components not washed with fuel mixture, use specialized lithium or graphite lubricants that are resistant to water washing. It is critical not to use conventional car oils to preserve two-stroke engines, as they may not burn completely on the first run and coke candles.
Use a transparent silicone hose worn over the candle hole to accurately inject oil directly into the cylinder without splashing around.
Protecting lower unit and Reductor from Corrosion
The bottom of the engine, which is submerged in water, is subjected to the most aggressive environmental effects, including biological fouling and chemical destruction of metals. Before storage, you need to carefully clean the lower unit of algae and shells, which can destroy the corrosion coating during the winter. Particular attention should be paid to the state of anode protection: if the zinc or aluminum anode is used up by more than 50%, it must be replaced with a new one.
The gearbox of the two-stroke motor also requires attention, although it is sealed. Check the oil level in the gearbox: if it has a milky shade, then the sealing of the oslugs is broken and water gets inside. This oil must be replaced before frosts come, otherwise when water freezes, it will expand and may damage the body or gears. To replace, unscrew the bottom drain screw, drain the workout, wash the gearbox and pour fresh water. transmission oil up to the level of the upper hole.
After oil change and cleaning, it is recommended to treat the outer surfaces of the lower unit with an anti-corrosion spray or silicone lubricant. This will create an additional water-repellent layer that will prevent the metal from contacting moist air in the storage room. Remember to lubricate the motor pivot hinges and the tilt mechanism, as moisture entering these knots can lead to acidification and the inability to change the angle of in the spring.
⚠️ Warning: When changing the oil in the gearbox, always start pouring from the bottom hole to displace the air and avoid the formation of voids that will lead to oil starvation of the gears.
Selection of storage location and motor position
The correct positioning of the motor during the wintering period directly affects the safety of its components and assemblies. The ideal option is to store in a vertical position that simulates water work, as this ensures a natural outflow of condensate and prevents deformation of rubber elements. However, if space is limited, it is allowed to store in a horizontal position, but only on a special padlock or stand that excludes pressure on the lower unit and carburetor.
The temperature of the room also plays an important role: sudden temperature changes contribute to the formation of condensation inside the engine. The optimal is a dry, ventilated room with a temperature of -10 to +20 degrees Celsius. It is not recommended to wrap the engine with a dense plastic film, as this creates a greenhouse effect and contributes to the development of corrosion; it is better to use special breathable covers or fabric capes.
If the motor is stored on a boat, be sure to raise the lower unit to the top position to avoid contact with ice crumb, which can damage the propeller blades and anti-cavitation plate. If stored separately from the boat, install the motor on a special rack or transport wheels so that the lower unit does not touch the floor. This will also protect the screw from accidental impacts and make it easier to move the unit if necessary.
The vertical position of the motor is the only correct option to minimize the risk of deformation of the omentums and the formation of stagnant zones for condensation.
Preparation for the first launch after wintering
Starting a canned engine in spring requires as much care as conservation itself, as you need to remove all the protective compounds and check the systems before getting on the water. First of all, unscrew the spark plugs and check their condition: if they are filled with oil or have soda, they need to be cleaned or replaced with new ones. Scroll the engine with a starter several times without candles to throw excess conservation oil from the cylinders.
Pour fresh fuel mixture of the correct quality and proportion, the appropriate instructions for your OutboardDon't use fuel that's been in the can all winter, even with stabilizers, because the octane number may have changed. After assembling all the units and connecting the fuel system, try starting the engine and letting it warm up at idle speeds, monitoring the presence of exhaust gases and stability of operation.
Be sure to check the cooling system immediately after starting: the water jet should run steadily and with good pressure. If the water does not go or is jerking, immediately turn off the engine to avoid overheating and jamming the piston group. In the first minutes of operation, listen to the sound of the engine: any foreign knocks or noises may indicate lubrication problems or foreign objects.
What to do if the engine smokes after starting?
Plenty of white smoke in the first minutes of operation after wintering is normal, as the remnants of the preservation oil burn out. If the smoke does not stop after 5-10 minutes of operation, check the quality of the fuel mixture and the condition of the piston rings.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to drain the oil completely from the gearbox before winter?
No, the gearbox oil doesn't need to be completely drained if it's clean and has no signs of water getting in, just check the level and the sealability of the ossels, and the only thing you need to do is to replace it completely when you find an emulsion.
Can a two-stroke engine be stored at sub-zero temperature?
Yes, two-stroke engines are great at handling negative temperatures if they're properly preserved, and the key is that there's no moisture inside the cylinders and there's a protective oil film on the parts.
How often should I start the engine during winter storage?
Starting the engine in winter is not recommended unnecessarily, and each run causes the oil layer to burn and a new condensate to form, and if the engine is properly preserved, it will stand quietly until spring without a single start.
What is the danger of storing a motor with a full tank of gasoline?
Storage with a full tank is dangerous only if the fuel stabilizer is not added and the tank is not leakproof, otherwise fuel stratification, precipitation and corrosion of the tank walls from the inside due to condensation may occur.