The approaching end of navigation is not just an excuse to clean the garage, but a critical stage, on which your resource directly depends. boat-engineMany owners of water machinery make the fatal mistake of simply putting the equipment in a corner until spring, forgetting the need for conservation. Moisture, fuel residues and salt deposits can cause damage in a few months of rest that will require expensive repairs or complete replacement of the units.
Proper preparation for winter storage eliminates the risk of corrosion of internal channels, jamming of the piston group and the destruction of rubber seals. outboard motorsWhether it's a powerful two-stroke unit or a modern four-stroke, it requires a personalized approach, and ignoring basic conservation rules often leads to a long and painful resuscitation of the equipment in the spring instead of the joy of opening the season.
In this article, we will discuss a step-by-step algorithm that will protect your equipment from old age and rust. You will learn why you can not leave fuel in the tank, how to properly treat the external surfaces and in what position it is best to keep the engine in long winter months, following these recommendations is the key to ensuring that the engine starts from the first time after a long break.
Primary washing and external inspection of equipment
The first step before you put the motor in storage is to wash it thoroughly, and operating in salty or muddy river water creates a plaque that contains aggressive salts and abrasive particles, and if you leave that layer on the body, it will slowly but surely break down the paintwork and the metal underneath, especially in the chipping areas.
Use moderately pressed fresh water to flush the entire exterior of the unit, and pay special attention to the cooling system: let the engine run idle in a freshwater tank or connect a special nozzle to the water intake, which will help wash the residues of sand and silt from the water jacket, preventing traffic jams and corrosion inside the channels.
After the water treatments, you need to do a detailed visual inspection, look for cracks in the lower unit, the condition of the propeller and the presence of foreign objects wound on the shaft. Any damage you find is better fixed immediately before it worsens over the winter. corrosion.
Special cleaning agents can be used to remove persistent contaminants and oxides on aluminum surfaces, but avoid aggressive chemicals that can damage the plastic fairing elements. After washing, thoroughly wipe all surfaces with dry rags. Moisture should not remain anywhere, especially in the recesses and fastening holes.
Conservation of the fuel system and engine
The most critical stage of preparation is the fuel system, and modern gasoline has the ability to decompose over time, forming resinous sediment and releasing water, and if you leave the fuel in the carburetor or fuel lines for the winter, it is guaranteed to clog the jelly and break the membranes.
There are two main approaches to this, and the choice depends on your type of engine and personal preferences. The first option is a complete drain of fuel from the tank, the sediment filter and the carburetor. To do this, close the fuel crane, disconnect the hose and let the engine generate all the gasoline from the system until it stops completely. The second option involves the use of a fuel stabilizer, which is added to the tank before the last start.
⚠️ Warning: Never leave your engine to winter with a full tank of regular gasoline without adding a stabilizer. In 3-4 months, the fuel will lose its properties, and starting the engine in the spring will be extremely difficult.
If you choose a stabilizer method, add liquid to the gas tank according to the manufacturer's instructions, then start the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, so that the processed fuel gets into all the cavities of the carburetor and fuel ramp. After the procedure, close the faucet again and release the fuel residue from the hose so that it remains empty.
Special attention is required carburetorSome models have a drain hole to drain gasoline, and if you don't have one, and you're afraid of draining fuel through dry work (which can be harmful for some types of seals), you'd better dismantle the carburetor and blow it through with compressed air, and that's guaranteed to keep the system from producing a lacquer coating.
What is a fuel stabilizer and why is it needed?
Fuel stabilizer is a chemical additive that prevents gasoline from oxidizing during long-term storage. It binds water molecules, prevents fuel stratification and resins from forming. The use of a stabilizer is especially important for direct injection engines and complex electronics, where clogging nozzles can be very expensive.
Corrosion protection and surface treatment
Once the motor has been washed and dried, it is time for preventive chemical protection. Aluminum alloys, which are the most used in most diewoods and cylinder blocks, are prone to oxidation when exposed to moist air. To avoid whitish plaque and pitting corrosion, a protective layer must be applied.
Use specialized spray preservatives for outboard motors. They create a thin but strong film that repels water and blocks oxygen from accessing metal. Treat all visible metal surfaces, including fasteners, brackets and transmission elements. corrosion-free for mobile connections.
Pay special attention to the lower unit, which is the part of the motor that is most susceptible to aggressive environmental influences, and if there are chipped paint on the casing, they need to be cleaned, degreased and painted to prevent further spread of rust, and even a small pocket of corrosion during the winter can turn into a through hole.
| Type of surface type | Recommended remedy | Frequency of processing | Features of application |
|---|---|---|---|
| External casing (plastic/metal) | Car wax or polyrene | 1 time before storage | Apply on a dry surface, polish with a soft cloth |
| Metal assemblies (bolts, brackets) | Spray preservative with corrosion inhibitors | 1 time before storage | Spray it, dry it out. |
| Bearings and hinges | Lithium lubricant or graphite lubricant | If necessary, | Put in lubricants or apply manually |
| Spin-screw and shaft | Copper lubrication (Anti-seize) | When the screw is removed | Apply to the shaft before installing the screw |
Don't neglect to handle electrical contacts. A special contact spray displaces moisture and creates a protective layer, preventing the oxidation of terminals and connectors. This will save you from problems with ignition and sensors early next season.
Maintenance of the gearbox and propeller
The gearbox is a sealed knot, but water can still penetrate through the coils, especially if they are worn out. Before wintering, be sure to check the oil in the gearbox for the presence of an emulsion. If the oil has acquired a milky hue, then water has entered it, and the coils need urgent replacement.
Even if the oil is pure, many experts recommend replacing it before storage. Fresh oil does not contain wear products and acids that can aggressively affect gears and bearings during long downtime.
⚠️ Warning: If a large metal shaving or pieces of metal are found on a magnetic cork, this indicates serious wear of the gears or bearings, and operation of such a motor is prohibited until repair is carried out.
Remove the propeller and inspect the shaft for winding fishing line. Leaf left on the shaft can damage the obble at the next start or even during storage due to temperature expansions. Clean the shaft, lubricate it with a thin layer of consistency lubricant and install the screw back, or store the screw separately, pre-lubricating the shaft.
When removing the propeller, always use a persistent washer between the screw and the thrust bearing. This will prevent the propeller from biting and make it easier to remove in the future.
Check the status of the thrust bearing. If you notice a backlash or hear a knock as the screw sways, you may need to adjust or replace the transmission parts. Winter time is the perfect moment to fix such malfunctions, so as not to waste precious days of navigation for repairs.
Rules for storage of battery and electrical equipment
The battery is one of the most sensitive to storage conditions of the outboard motor components, especially if you have a battery. four-stroke Lead-acid batteries are prone to self-discharge, and if left discharged in the cold, the electrolyte can freeze, which will lead to the destruction of the plates and the housing.
Before sending the battery for storage, you must fully charge. Check the electrolyte level (if the battery is serviceable) and, if necessary, add distilled water. The battery terminals should be removed, cleaned of oxides with a metal brush and lubricated with technical jelly or special lubricant for terminals.
Store the battery in a dry room at a temperature of not less than 0 ° C and not higher than +20 ° C. The ideal option is to use an automatic charger with a desulphation and charge maintenance mode (storage mode), such a device will automatically recharge the battery with low currents, keeping it in perfect condition throughout the winter.
If there is no automatic charger, the battery must be recharged manually every 3-4 weeks. Do not allow a deep discharge, as each cycle of deep discharge irreversibly reduces the battery capacity. Remember that even the battery that is disconnected continues to slowly lose charge.
☑️ Checklist of battery preparation
Choice of location and position for wintering
Last but not least, the right storage space is the ideal option, which is a heated, dry room with good ventilation, but if that is not possible, you can also store the engine in an unheated garage or shed, subject to certain rules.
The main enemy of the engine when stored is condensate. The sudden temperature changes contribute to the formation of moisture inside the engine. So it is important to ensure that air circulates around the unit. Do not cover the engine tightly with plastic or tarpaulin that does not allow air to pass through. It is better to use special breathable covers or fabric capes.
As for the position of the engine, experts may disagree, but the safest is considered to be vertical (on lower unit) or horizontal on a special stand. If you keep the engine on a boat, try to keep it raised so that the lower unit is in the air, not in the water (if the boat is in water) or on the ground.
The optimal storage position is vertical, on a stand under the lower unit, so that water can flow freely from the lower unit and not freeze inside, tearing the case.
Avoid storing the engine in a position where the lower unit is pointed upwards if there is still water in it, which can lead to corrosion of the exhaust system, and it is also not recommended to store the engine in close proximity to heat sources such as furnaces or radiators, as this can cause deformation of plastic parts and drying of the gums.
Can I keep a outboard motor outside under a canopy?
Storing the motor outside, even under a canopy, is highly undesirable. Constant temperature changes, humidity, ultraviolet light and dust will significantly reduce the life of the equipment. If there is no other way out, use a sealed case and regularly check the condition of the engine, but be prepared for a more difficult start in the spring.
Do I need to take the engine off the boat for the winter?
Yes, it's highly recommended that you take the engine off, that you can do a complete lower unit audit, that you can protect the transom of the boat from deformation, and that you can have better storage conditions for the engine itself, and that you can also have a boat without a motor that takes up less space and is easier to transport.
How often should I check the engine during storage?
The optimal frequency of checks is once a month, during which time you need to inspect the engine for corrosion, check the battery level and make sure that there are no rodents who like to winter in warm engine casings.
What if the engine was not preserved?
If the engine stood in the winter without preparation, before starting you need to drain all liquids, wash the fuel system, replace the oil in the gearbox and engine, check the spark plugs and thoroughly dry all electrical contacts.
Compliance with all of these conservation rules may seem time-consuming, but it's an investment in the durability of your technique. boat-engine It's been in service for decades, with a job that's reliable and no unexpected expenses, and you don't have to be lazy about preparing, and the water will only respond with positive emotions.