Transporting an inflatable vessel is a process that requires as much attention as navigation itself, as errors at this stage often result in critical damage to expensive property. PVC The trailer is a source of increased danger on the road, posing a threat not only to the owner, but also to other road users, wind, oncoming trucks and irregularities of the road can turn a poorly fixed vessel into an unguided sail that can shift or break off the platform.

There is a persistent misconception that it is enough to just throw a pair of belts across the cylinders and tighten them harder, but this saving of time and money is fraught with serious consequences. The materials from which modern inflatable vessels are made, although they are highly tensile, are extremely sensitive to point friction and excessive local pressure. fixation It involves the uniform distribution of loads throughout the contact area and the use of specialized accessories that prevent tissue damage.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the nuances of loading and mounting, drawing on the experience of professional water-engineers and the technical requirements of manufacturers. You will learn why you can not use conventional household ropes, how to protect the sides from abrasion and what the tying scheme is the only true for a safe long-distance trip.

Choosing the right trailer and preparing the platform

The first and fundamental step is to assess the conformity of the trailer device to the type of your boat, as there are no universal solutions. PVC Hard or inflatable floor (HBB) trailers are most commonly used, where the vessel rests on long long longitudinal rugged bars, with roller models being the alternative, but they are less preferred for the soft shell of the inflatable side due to the risk of shaking the fabric between the rollers.

Before each loading, you need to visually inspect the bed surface for foreign objects, sticking out nails, chips or dirt. Even a small pebble that falls under the bottom, when vibrating while moving, works as an abrasive that can wipe the protective layer. PVC A perfectly clean surface is a basic requirement, the neglect of which negates all further efforts to sling properly.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the carpeting of the padmen itself: if the pile is knocked down, rubbed to holes or soaked in oil, it must be replaced. Slippery or damaged surface does not provide the necessary adhesion, which increases the risk of sliding the vessel under sharp braking. Owners of old trailers are recommended to renew the coating with special marine mats that are resistant to water and ultraviet.

โš ๏ธ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to carry an inflatable vessel on a metal bed without protective carpeting or rubber linings, as this is guaranteed to damage the bottom.

Properly stowing the boat on the bed

The laying process begins with the correct positioning of the vessel relative to the trailer's symmetry axis, which is critical for structural stability. Boat. It should be placed strictly in the center so that the weight distribution is even on both sides, which is especially important when cornering, shifting the center of gravity to the side can lead to dangerous rolling of the trailer and even overturning at high speed.

When the inflatable board is lowered onto the pad, it is important to ensure that the joints and joints of cylinders do not fall exactly on the edges of the bars. The optimal option is when the sides slightly hang over the edges of the bed or lean on them with a wide flat part, rather than a rope. This prevents the formation of cracks and excessive pressure on vulnerable areas of the structure. fly-boat.

If you use a trailer with adjustable pauper height, adjust it so that the boat's keel does not sag between the bars, but also is not unnecessarily bent up. Excessive deflection of the bottom creates stress in the materials, which, when vibrating, can lead to stratification of the seams. The correct geometry of stowage ensures the entire bottom surface naturally fits to the supports.

๐Ÿ“Š What is your PVC boat bottom type?
Plywood slut
inflatable floor (NDB)
Aluminum floor
Hard plastic

Basic rules of fixation with belts and slings

For secure attachment PVC Only specialized straps with a ratchet or friction mechanism, equipped with soft linings, should be used. Conventional straps with metal hooks without protection can damage the fabric when jerking, so all points of contact of the metal with the sides should be isolated. The length of the belts is selected so that the tension angle relative to the vertical is no more than 45 degrees, which ensures optimal downforce.

The mounting circuit usually includes transom belts that are thrown through cylinders, and longitudinal belts that hold the nose and stern. The transom belts should not twist, because the twisted belt works worse and creates points of increased pressure. When tightening the forklift, it is important to observe the measure: the belt should be tightly stretched, but should not crash into the cylinder, deforming its round section.

Special attention is paid to protecting the beltโ€™s contact points with the sides: use special soft treads or place pieces of dense fabric under the straps, which prevents the upper layer of PVC from abrading during vibration, which inevitably occurs when driving along the road, regularly check the condition of the belts themselves for cracks, scuffs and corrosion of metal elements of the mechanism.

โ˜‘๏ธ Pre-departure checks

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Protection from wind and road factors

The inflatable boat on the trailer has a huge sailing speed, and even in moderate winds, it is subject to significant forces that want to lift or turn the vessel around. To compensate for these loads, a longitudinal lock system is used, where the nose is attached to the front end of the trailer and the stern is attached to the rear crossroad, which prevents the boat from moving along the axis of movement when the car is sharply braking or accelerating.

When driving on a high-speed highway, the oncoming airflows from heavy vehicles create powerful turbulent swirls. These airstrikes can become critical for poorly secured cargo, so additional side belts are a must for long journeys. They prevent cylinders from shifting sideways when the wind gusts.

Also worth considering is the dust and dirt that comes up off the road: at high speeds, small pebbles act like a sandblaster. If you have a long journey on gravel roads, it makes sense to cover the boat with a protective awning or a transport case that will also reduce wind load. However, remember that the cover itself must be securely fixed, otherwise it will turn into a sail.

The effect of speed on aerodynamics

At speeds above 90 km/h, the aerodynamic drag increases exponentially and the forces acting on the load can exceed the calculated values of the fasteners several times, which is why it is recommended to transport inflatable boats not to exceed the speed of 80-90 km/h.

Typical errors in fastening and their consequences

One of the most common mistakes is to use poor-quality or old straps that stretch as you move, and the owner can tighten them "to the point" in the parking lot, but after 50 kilometers, the material of the straps will stretch out, and the straps will be stretched. fixation It's going to weaken. It's going to backlash, friction, and eventual untying of the knot, or hook jumping off.

Another common mistake is to attach the belts directly to inflatable handles or plastic accessories, which are not designed to withstand the loads that occur when braking a multi-ton trailer, and can come off with a piece of fabric, and you can only fasten them by throwing them through cylinders or using special eyelets in the construction of the trailer, designed for slinging.

Some owners neglect to check the stretch after the first kilometers of the journey, believing that if the belt was tightened with a ratchet, it will not go anywhere. However, vibration and initial shrinkage of the material require a mandatory re-lift 10-15 minutes after the start of the movement, ignoring this rule is a direct road to an emergency situation on the side of the road.

Mounting element Recommended material Replacement frequency Signs of wear and tear
Flying belts Low-stretched polyester Every 3-5 years Folding, fading, filament tearing
Carpet bed covering Marinated carpet As it wears off The appearance of holes, loss of pile, rigidity
Protective linings Tight rubber or felt Every season. Thinning, loss of elasticity
Metal hooks Galvanized steel When corrosion occurs Rust, spring deformation
๐Ÿ’ก

Use contrasting color belts in relation to the color of the boat โ€“ this will help visually control their position and tension during movement, without coming close to the trailer.

Specifics of fastening boats with engine and equipment

If you plan to transport a boat with the installed outboardThe motor creates a significant lever of pressure on the transom, so it needs to be fixed with a separate safety cable or belt, pressing the deadwell against the transmolor or removing it completely. Leaving the motor in a transport position without additional fixation is dangerous even on short trips.

The PVC boat trawler experiences enormous loads when transporting with a heavy engine, so it is often recommended to use a special transom press or completely remove the engine. The weight of the engine, which accounts only for the soft transom of the inflatable boat when shaking, can lead to deformation of cylinders in the aft part and violation of the tightness of the seams.

Internal equipment such as anchor boxes, seats and fuel tanks must also be securely fixed inside the cockpit. In a sharp maneuver, loose objects turn into projectiles that can penetrate the sideboard from the inside. All removable elements are better removed and transported separately in the trunk of the car.

โš ๏ธ Attention: Never attach the motor safety cable to the car bumper โ€“ it should be fixed exclusively on the trailer frame or the transom of the boat to avoid rupture when jerking.

๐Ÿ’ก

Removing the outboard motor before transportation is not just a recommendation, but a necessity to preserve the integrity of the transom of the inflatable boat and safety on the road.

Seasonal storage and conservation on the trailer

Although long-term parking of the inflatable boat on the trailer is not recommended, in some cases owners are forced to leave the boat in assembled condition for the whole season, in which case it is critical to reduce the pressure in the cylinders to a minimum working level to compensate for temperature changes that can lead to rupture of the seams in the sun.

If you leave a boat on a trailer, you have to cover it with a quality, breathable awning that protects you from UV, rainfall and bird droppings. Direct sunlight destroys the PVC structure faster than operation, making the material brittle and dull in one or two seasons. Regularly check the condition of the awning mounts so that the wind does not break the protection and starts to rub the sides.

For long-term storage, it is recommended to periodically, once a month, check the tension of the belts and the presence of moisture under the tent. Stagnant water between the bottom of the boat and the lodging can cause mold and unpleasant odor, and also accelerate the rotting of wooden paiola elements, if they are in the design.

Effects of ultraviolet light on PVC

Under UV radiation, the polymer chain of PVC breaks down, the material loses plasticizers, becomes rigid and cracks, and the protection of the awning reduces this process by 80-90%.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I transport a PVC boat inflated condition in winter?

Transporting an inflated boat in winter is possible, but requires extreme caution. In the cold, PVC material becomes rigid and brittle, so any impact or strong tension of the belts can lead to cracks. The pressure in the cylinders in the cold drops, but when applied to heat increases sharply, so you can not immediately bring the boat into the heated room after the trip.

How many belts do you need for a reliable fastening?

The minimum number required is three transom belts: one in the bow, one in the middle (above the cockpit) and one in the aft. However, for complete safety and compliance with the rules for the carriage of large goods, it is recommended to use a minimum of 4-5 belts plus mandatory longitudinal fixation of the nose and stern.

What if the belt starts to hang out on the way?

Stop immediately in a safe place and pull up. A dangling belt can catch on the trailer wheel or other protruding parts, causing it to rupture and lose load. Be in the habit of checking the load after every 50-70 km journey.

Do I have to put the boat down before transportation?

The boat is not required to be fully descented if it is properly secured on a padded trailer. However, the pressure in the cylinders must be slightly lower than the working one (10-15%) to compensate for the heat from the sun and friction. A fully deflated boat takes up less space, but it takes longer to load and assemble on the water.

How to protect belts from rubbing on sharp corners?

Use special plastic or rubber tread corners that are worn on the belt at the point of contact with the sharp edge, you can also use pieces of dense canvas fabric or car mats, placing them under the strap in places of friction.