A rigid deck inflatable boat is not just a balloon, but a complex engineering structure where each element carries its own load, and pumping errors can cause floor deformation, uneven straining of the fabric, and even tearing the seams at the wrong time, and the right sequence of actions is the key to long-term service of your boat and safety on the water.
Many beginners make the same mistake: pump everything to the point in an arbitrary order, ignoring the physical properties of polyvinyl chloride. Air pressure. The temperature of the water inside the cylinders is directly dependent on the temperature of the environment, and this factor must be taken into account when preparing for the water, so if you pump a boat on the shore in the heat, it can become like a stone on the water or, conversely, lose shape when cooled.
In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of working with floatboatYou'll learn why it's important to keep the sequence, how to use the pressure gauge, and what the hidden risks are when you ignore the manufacturer's instructions.
Preparation of the seat and check of the completeness
Before you can plug in the pump, you have to get the site right, the surface has to be flat, clear of sharp objects, knots, rocks and construction debris, even a small pebble or a sharp root can damage. bottom Or cylinders in the process of laying out and pumping, which will lead to expensive repairs.
Spread the boat so that the valves are easily accessible, and the boat itself lies flat, without creases and skews. If you use the boat for the first time or after long storage, be sure to check the equipment: availability floor-coveringThe sling for mounting, the condition of the valves and the integrity of the seams, the absence of even one element can disrupt the geometry of the structure.
⚠️ Warning: Never lay the boat out on asphalt or concrete in hot weather. Heated surfaces can damage the bottom of the cylinders and impair the tightness of the adhesive seams.
Make sure you have all the tools you need: a pump (manual or electric), a pressure gauge, a valve key (if designed) and a repair kit just in case. Check in advance if the pump is working and the valve covers are tightly closed. This will save you from unpleasant surprises on the shore of the reservoir.
Always bring a small repair kit with a piece of PVC fabric and glue with you for a fishing or walk, and you can get a puncture even in water, and the ability to quickly fix the hole will save your trip.
Procedure for pumping cylinders and inflatable floor
There's a very strict algorithm to follow when you fill a boat with air, and the first thing you do is you pump the side cylinders, not to the full pressure, but to about 60-70% of the normal pressure, so that the structure is in its original shape, but it's flexible enough to fit the rest of the components.
Now, if you have an inflatable floor (BBB), you have to pump it up to the working state, and if you have a detachable floorboard bottom boat, that's skipped, and we move on to the hard sheets. bottom It requires special attention to the uniformity of the pressure to avoid swelling in the middle.
After the side cylinders and bottom are first pumped (if any), a rigid flooring is installed, and only after the floor is fully assembled and fixed can the cylinders be pressurized to work pressure, and if this sequence is broken, the plywood or aluminum sheets will simply not fall into place or damage the fabric.
- 🚣 First we pump side cylinders to 60-70% of the volume.
- 🛶 Inflate the quill or inflatable floor (depending on the design).
- 🏗️ We will set the scorching (short) floor.
- 💨 We bring all compartments to working pressure according to the instructions.
Work with flooring (floorboards)
Installing a hard floor is the most time-consuming step in assembling a keel boat. plywood or aluminum should be connected with special profiles or locks until the final straightening of the boat. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps between the sheets and the locks are snapped to the end.
When laying the floor, you need to carefully straighten the cylinder fabric so that the folds do not fall under them. If you feel strong resistance, do not use force - perhaps the cylinders are not sufficiently pumped or, conversely, over-pumped. The optimal condition for laying the floor is when the boat is already in shape, but still malleable.
After the floor is laid, you need to walk along the entire length, pressing the edges against the sides, which will help to straighten the internal partitions and prepare the structure for the final pumping, pay special attention to the bow and aft parts, where geometry can be complex.
☑️ Floor inspection
Optimal pressure and operation with a pressure gauge
The key parameter of proper operation is work pressureFor most PVC boats, it ranges from 0.2 to 0.25 kgf/cm2 (about 200-250 mbar or 3-4 psi). Exceeding this value is dangerous: the fabric can not withstand tension, especially in the sun when the air inside expands.
The pressure gauge is mandatory because it is a highly unreliable and subjective method to determine the pressure to the touch, and different pump models and different tissue elasticity can create a false sense of stiffness. Digital pressure gauge Or a mechanical sensor built into the pump will give an accurate understanding of the condition of the boat.
It's a law of physics that when you get hot, the pressure inside the closed volume goes up, and if you pump the boat in the shade at 20°C, and then you put it out in the sun at 35°C, the pressure inside can go up by 10 to 15 percent, which is critical for the strength of the seams.
| Type of element | Recommended pressure (kgf/cm2) | Recommended pressure (PSI) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side cylinders | 0.20 - 0.25 | 2.9 - 3.6 | Main carrier |
| inflatable floor (NDB) | 0.20 - 0.25 | 2.9 - 3.6 | It requires an even distribution. |
| keel | 0.15 - 0.20 | 2.1 - 2.9 | Maybe a little softer than the sides. |
| Inflatable seats | 0.10 - 0.15 | 1.4 - 2.1 | For landing comfort |
Never exceed the maximum pressure specified in the boat's passport. It is better to lose a little (0.18-0.20 kgf/cm2) than to pump, especially in hot weather.
Final pumping and seal check
In the final stage, when the floor is installed, all compartments are finished to working pressure. Start with the cylinders, then proceed to the keel and inflatable floor. The pressure must be uniform across all compartments to ensure proper geometry and driving performance.
Once you've reached your target, make sure you check the leakiness. It's hard to hear, so use a soap solution. Apply it to the valves and the seams: the appearance of bubbles will indicate the leakage site. Even microscopic etching of air will eventually lead to a loss of stiffness.
Note the valves. Some models have a pressure-emitting mechanism. Make sure that this mechanism is not activated incorrectly and the valve caps are twisted to the point (but without fanaticism to avoid breaking the thread).
⚠️ Warning: If you hear a characteristic crackling or clicking of fabric when pressed on board, it is a sign of overvoltage.
Features of operation at different temperatures
The temperature changes the pumping process, and in winter, when temperatures are low, PVC becomes less elastic, and the risk of tissue damage increases, and in summer, on the contrary, the material becomes mild, but the pressure inside rises, and you have to adapt your actions to the environment.
If you're preparing a boat for winter fishing, keep it warm until the last moment, pump it with icy air from the street, but control the pressure more carefully, and when you're in the heat, the pressure will rise dramatically, so you can keep a little less pressure in the cold than in the summer.
In the summer heat, the opposite rule is true: pump the boat in the shade, preferably early in the morning or in the evening, and if you leave the pumped boat in the sun even for 20-30 minutes, the pressure inside can grow so that the valve will start to blow air on its own, or, in the worst case, the seam will break.
Why does the boat go up in the cold?
When the temperature drops, the air molecules contract and the pressure drops, and at the same time, the PVC material loses its elasticity, so in winter, the boat may seem deflated even at normal pressure, but you need to pump it carefully so as not to damage the cold tissue.
Frequent errors and security measures
One of the most common mistakes is to use powerful car compressors without pressure control. Such pumps quickly overheat and can deliver air under too high pressure, instantly damaging the boat. Use compressors only with built-in compressors. shutdown Or the regulator.
Also, the valves are often ignored, and the mud, sand, or sand that gets under the rubber valve pad keeps it from closing tightly, and the boat will slowly poison the air, and you'll only notice it on the water when it becomes sluggish and uncontrollable. Always blow the valves before you twist the lid.
Don't forget to be safe on the water. Even a perfectly pumped boat is an inflatable product. Avoid contact with sharp objects, snags and ice. Proper pumping minimizes risks, but doesn't make the boat armored.
- 🚫 Do not use open flames near a pumped boat.
- 🚫 Do not leave the boat in direct sunlight unattended.
- 🚫 Do not exceed the load capacity, even if the boat is pumped perfectly.
- 🚫 Do not keep the boat in a pumped state for a long time at home.
Can I pump a boat with a car compressor?
Yes, but with caution. Car compressors often develop high pressures designed for tires. Be sure to follow the process and use a pressure gauge. It is best to use special boat pumps with low pressure and high air volume (high performance in liters per minute), or compressors with a stop-pressure function.
Why does the boat lose pressure on cold water?
It's a physical law. When you go out into cold water, especially from a warm car or room, the air inside the cylinders cools and contracts. The pressure drops. So experienced boaters always bring a pump with them, so that on the water, 15-20 minutes after descent, pump the cylinders to the desired state.
What pressure is critical for PVC?
Pressures above 0.3-0.35 kgf/cm2 (about 5 PSI) are critical for most domestic boats, and under this strain, the fabric is at the limit of strength, and the seams are under tremendous stress. In the sun, internal pressure can spontaneously rise to these values if the boat has been pumped "up to the point" in the shade.