How to put a PVC boat without a transponder in a bag

The navigation season is over, and every inflatable boat owner is faced with the question of conservation. Many beginners mistakenly believe that the process of folding a boat without a transom is much easier than models with a rigid glued peyol, but there are some nuances. Incorrect stowage can lead to the formation of deep rims on the surface of the boat. PVC materialAnd they will be in the spring, and they will be in the spring.

Unlike heavy models, where the main challenge is to dismantle the floor, the main enemy is the air and moisture left inside the folds of fabric. If you just roll the sides and shove them into a case, after a few months of storage you can detect an unpleasant smell of mold or, worse, microcracks on the folds. Competent packaging is not just a way to save space in the garage, it is a good way to save space in the garage. durability your property.

In this article, we will discuss in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to compactly and safely pack the boat. We will consider surface preparation, features of working with an inflatable keel and how to fix elements so that you do not expect unpleasant surprises when you build the next one.

Preparation of the boat for packaging: washing and drying

The first and most critical step is to thoroughly clean the case of dirt, silt and river debris, and even the microscopic grains of sand left between the layers of folded fabric will work like an abrasive, slowly but surely rubbing it. polyvinyl chlorideFirst rinse the boat with hose water, removing the main contaminants, and then wipe with a wet sponge using a mild soapy solution.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, solvents or gasoline to clean PVC. These substances destroy the structure of the material and make it brittle, which will lead to a rapid failure of the product.

After wet cleaning, there is a drying phase that is often ignored in a hurry, and the boat must be left straightened outdoors until the moisture is completely evaporated. keel And the internal surfaces where water might have leaked, and if you fold a wet product, you're at a much higher risk of developing fungus inside the tissue layers.

Make sure not only the outer sides are completely dry, but also the inside of the cockpit. In transpranean-free models, water often stagnates in the aft jar or in the depressions near the sides. Use soft rags to remove water residues in hard-to-reach areas. Only after the material is completely dry to the touch, you can proceed to the next step.

Dismantling of removable elements and fittings

Boats without transverses tend to be simpler in design, but that doesn't mean that there are no removable parts. Before you start twisting, you need to dismantle all the attachments: seats (banks), rod holders, anchor rings and safety levers, these elements can damage the fabric when you tightly stack or create stress points.

Special attention is required cock-pieceIf the boat has a removable inflatable keel, it needs to be ejected and disconnected. In some models, the keel is part of the design, but in most budget options it is removable. Carefully unfasten the belts, trying not to pull sharply on the valves.

• 🪑 Remove the hard or inflatable seats and stow them separately, wrapping them in a soft cloth so that metal corners do not scratch the sides.
• ⚓ Disconnect the anchor tiles and safety leer if they are passed through special eyelets so as not to damage the fittings when compressed.
• 🛡️ Remove the protective linings (treads) from the bottom if they are removable, and clean them from the sand separately.

All the small parts, such as belts, buckles and valve keys, are best folded in a separate bag. pressure-valve (Type A or B) can be a big problem next time you pump the boat, so put this bag inside the bag, but not at the bottom, so it doesn't get lost in the folds of fabric.

Air deflation and removal techniques

The process of removing air from cylinders requires care, and you don't have to try to squeeze all the air out with your knee or body weight, because that puts excessive pressure on the seams and can cause them to diverge. Open all the valves and let the air come out naturally. To speed up the process, you can slightly press the balloon with your hand, moving from nose to stern.

In models without a hard floor is often used bottom (Air Deck) or an inflatable keel, which should be blown away last, and when blowing away, it's important to make sure that the keel doesn't twist, forming rigid harnesses that will be difficult to straighten out, and spread the pressure evenly throughout the length of the element.

What if the valve is stuck?

If the air is not coming out, maybe there's dirt or salt in the valve. Try gently pressing the center stem with your finger or blunt object. If that doesn't work, you can slightly lubricate the valve edges with silicone grease, but never with oil or WD-40.

After the main blow, walk through the cylinders with your hands, driving the air residue to the valves, and this is an important point: the less air remains inside, the more compact the convolution will be. Complete vacuuming of cylinders by twisting to a characteristic crack of fabric is prohibitedThis is because it breaks the structure of the reinforcement.

Addition algorithm: from sides to keel

There are several ways to fold a boat, but the most effective way for a transom-free model is to turn the sides in sequence inside the cockpit. Put the boat on a flat, clean surface with the outside up. Spread out all the folds and make sure the bottom is flat.

Start with the bow. Wrap the starboard side inside the cockpit, align it along the center axis. Then repeat the action with the left side, superimposing it over the right side. Try to keep the edges of the fabric flat, without large clogs and air bubbles. If the boat is long, this process is more convenient for two people.

Then start rolling. Start rolling the boat from nose to stern (or vice versa, depending on the design of the keel). Roll tightly but without fanaticism, periodically pressing the roll to get air out. When you reach the stern, tuck the remnants of fabric so that the valves are inside or on top, but do not rest against the walls of the bag.

Packaging in a bag-case and storage

The resulting bundle should be carefully placed in the transport bag. Do not push the boat forcefully if it does not enter, it is better to overload it again, removing the excess air pockets. zip the bag zipper, leaving a small gap if the PVC material is still "breathing" and changes volume depending on temperature.

The packed boat should be stored in a dry, cool place protected from direct sunlight. Ultraviolet is the main enemy of polyvinyl chloride, causing its degradation and the appearance of microcracks. The optimal storage temperature is from -15 ° C to +40 ° C, although it is better to avoid extreme values.

Parameter	Recommended value	Critical significance
Storage humidity	Dry room	Raw basement, garage with condensate
Temperature.	From -10°C to +30°C	Below -20°C or above +50°C (in the sun)
Situation	Horizontally or vertically	Hanged by the valves
Neighborhood	Separate from chemicals	Next to fuel, oils, acids

Don't put heavy objects on your boat bag that can create local pressure points. If you keep the boat in your garage, make sure it doesn't come into contact with sharp corners of shelves or tools. Periodically, once a season, it's recommended to take out the boat, lay out and check the condition of the material.

Typical errors and their consequences

One of the most common mistakes is to pack a wet or dirty boat in a hurry, and owners think that everything will dry out in the winter, but in the enclosed space of the bag, the moisture does not evaporate, but absorbs into the fabric, causing the threads of the reinforcement frame to rot, and in the spring, such a boat can lose a significant part of its strength.

Another mistake is keeping the boat close to the heater, because high temperatures can cause seams to deform and change the geometry of the cylinders, and it is also dangerous to store PVC products near ozone sources (for example, working electric motors), because ozone actively destroys polymers.

⚠️ Warning: Never keep the boat assembled but pumped in a warm room, and as the temperature rises, the pressure inside the cylinders will rise, which can cause seams to rupture or deform.

Avoid storing the boat in places accessible to rodents. Mice and rats often mistake soft PVC for food or build nests out of it, chewing holes in cylinders. If the garage is not protected, use metal containers or special scarepers.

Can I keep a PVC boat in the cold?

Yes, boats made of high-quality PVC (for example, PVC-1100 g/m2) can withstand frosts up to -30°C and below, but it is absolutely impossible to fold or deploy the boat at subzero temperatures, this is guaranteed to lead to crevices and cracks. All manipulations must be carried out in a warm room.

How often should I pump the boat during storage?

If you keep the boat disassembled, you don't have to pump it up. If the boat is in the garage in a assembled state (which is not recommended for long-term storage), check the pressure once a month. In winter, the pressure drops due to temperature changes, and the cylinders can deflate slightly, but that's okay.

How to lubricate valves before storage?

For lubrication of valves and sealing rings, it is best to use a special silicone lubricant that is not aggressive to rubber and PVC. In extreme cases, you can use technical petroleum petroleum petroleum. It is strictly forbidden to use vegetable oils, solidol or lithol, since they destroy the structure of the polymer.

What if the boat was still wet?

At the first opportunity (for example, on warm winter days or early spring), the boat must be taken out, completely inflated and dried in a straightened form. If there is a smell of mold, wash the insides with a weak solution of vinegar or a special PVC cleaning agent, then thoroughly rinse and dry.

Do I need to remove the valves for the winter?

Removing the valves completely is not recommended unless you plan to clean or change them, it can interfere with the tightness of the landing, it is better to simply leave them open (in the open position) to allow ventilation of the internal space of the cylinders at temperature changes.