It's a mistake to think that the boat ends when you get it ashore, precisely because of how well it's done. conservation If you're fishing or cruising, it depends on the life of your vessel in future seasons, and if you dry it or if you're not properly assembled, it can cause mold, aluminum floorboards to oxidize, and even microcracks in PVC folds.
Many newcomers make the critical mistake of trying to roll a wet vessel "as it happens" just to get into the bag. polyvinyl chlorideIn this article, we will discuss a detailed algorithm of actions that will allow you to keep the sealed and appearance of your boat for many years to come.
The packaging process takes time and patience, especially if you're doing it for the first time, but once you've developed the right habit, you'll spend no more than 15-20 minutes on it, which will more than pay off with no problems repairing punctures or replacing the bottom in the future.
Primary preparation and drying of the shell
Before you think about folding your cylinders, you have to clean the hull of the contaminants. Sand, silt, algae and fish mucus are abrasives that, when you roll the boats, act like sandpaper, wiping the protective layer of the material. PVC fresh water, using a soft sponge, and let it dry.
Pay special attention to the bottom, if you have one. NDMA (low pressure inflatable floor), make sure there is no moisture between the layers, and if you use plywood or aluminum floorboards, you have to remove them and dry them separately, and the wet metal is guaranteed to be covered in oxides when closed, which then rust stains on the fabric.
⚠️ Warning: Never pack a damp boat in a sealed case for long-term storage. The condensation inside the bag will create the perfect environment for fungus to develop, which will destroy the adhesive seams.
Drying the vessel is best in the shade. Direct sunlight, especially when combined with residual humidity, can negatively affect the structure of the polymer. If you are on a body of water and time is tight, at least wipe the main knots with dry rags before loading.
Dismantling of attachments and floorboards
The right disassembly sequence is key to fast and accurate stacking. First of all, remove all removable elements: seats (banks), suspended slingboards, rod holders and anchor rings, these parts have sharp angles that can damage cylinders when folded.
Then you have to take the paioles out, and if you have separate aluminum plates on the bottom, you have to separate them, and you have to do that, and you usually push them out of locks or you just move them out of the lock, and you just fold them in a separate case, or you can put them in a pile of gently, and you can put them in a soft cloth to avoid scratching.
Plywood sheets require even more care, and they can't be thrown or placed on the edge, because the layered plywood can be decomposed of moisture, and once the bottom is extracted, the boat becomes "sluggish," which makes it much easier to blow and fold.
Technology of proper deflating of cylinders
Many users make the mistake of opening the valve completely and letting the air flow out of its own way. It's long and inefficient. It's better to put the bulk of the air in front of you by pressing your knee or palm on the balloon, and then open it. valve for the final removal of the residues.
It's important to understand the physics of the process: when you cool down, the air shrinks. If you blow the boat in the hot sun and blow it out in the cool of the evening, a vacuum can form inside that will suck the valve petal in, making it difficult to pump it, so always leave the valves open for a few minutes after deflation to equalize the pressure.
To speed up the process, you can use special air pumping bags or reverse compressors, if they are designed, but the most reliable method is mechanically extruding air from the stern to the nose, sequentially passing through all cylinders.
Use a piece of smooth plywood or a wide spatula to squeeze air out of hard-to-reach areas of cylinders so as not to damage the fabric with sharp objects or fingers with rings.
Converting: methods and algorithm of actions
There are two main ways of stacking: rolling and folding with an envelope. NDMA And with hard keels, because it creates fewer clamps, folding is better suited for models with removable hard bottoms, where it's important to compactly place paioles inside.
When rolling, start with the nose or the stern (it doesn't matter), tightly pressing the turns together. Try to keep the diameter of the roll uniform. Avoid sharp inflections at the same point every time - this leads to cracks in the folds. Change the fold line periodically when you repack.
If you use the folding method, first turn the side cylinders inside, then fold the boat in half or three times along, and then turn across. The resulting envelope usually contains paddles, a pump and other accessories.
☑️ Convolution algorithm
Packaging of accessories and components
A well-packed boat is not only a rolled-up hull; it also contains oars, a pump, a remix and often an anchor; heavy objects such as an anchor or a battery should never lie on top of PVC; they should be packed in separate hard cases or placed in special pockets of bags if designed.
Oars are best disassembled into parts. Aluminum oars with plastic blades should be wiped dry so that water does not get into the joints of the sections, where it can freeze in winter and break the metal.
The pump is another important element. Mechanical foot pumps (dual pumps) must be dried inside. To do this, make a few idle swings in the air before packaging. The pump hose is better disconnected and laid with a ring, without overbending it at right angles.
| Element of the boat | Packaging method | Risks of error | Recommended seat |
|---|---|---|---|
| hull (PVC) | Roll-up wrapper | Cracks on the folds, mold. | Down the bag |
| Paiola (Aluminum) | A stack in a case | Scratches, oxidation | Inside the cylinders or above. |
| Banks (Seaters) | Separately. | Tissue piercing sharp angle | Side by side of the roll. |
| Pump | In a separate compartment. | Damage to the valve | Upper pocket |
Seasonal storage and conservation
If you're putting the boat away for the winter, the rules get even stricter, and after the final drying and packaging, it's recommended that the valves be slightly opened to allow air to circulate inside the cylinders.
The storage space should be dry, ventilated and protected from direct sunlight. The optimal temperature is room, but storage in an unheated garage is allowed, unless the temperature drops below -10 ° C. At lower temperatures. plasticizer In PVC, they can crystallize, making the material brittle.
⚠️ Warning: Do not place a packed boat near heating appliances or open flames. High temperatures can cause material deformation and disruption of seam geometry.
Check the condition of the package every 2-3 months. If you notice condensation inside the bag, the boat should be removed and dried again, and it is also recommended to periodically (once a season) completely inflate the boat, check the pressure and lubricate the valves with silicone lubrication to maintain their elasticity.
How do you reanimate PVC cavities?
If the boat has white cavities (striped marks), you can try to eliminate them. To do this, the site of the rig is carefully warmed up with a building hairdryer (not higher than 60-70 degrees) or use a special spray reagent for PVC. After heating, the damaged area is smoothed with a wooden bar wrapped in cloth and allowed to cool under load. However, deep structural damage to the material cannot be repaired in this way.
Following these simple but important rules will allow you to enjoy safe fishing and water walks for many years to come. quality boat It is an investment that pays off only with proper care.
The main secret of the boat’s durability is not the material it is made of, but the thorough drying before packaging and the absence of heavy items pressing on the cylinders during storage.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you keep the boat in a fully assembled (inflated) state?
Yes, it is possible and even useful to keep the boat inflated periodically to check the leakage and let the material "steal". However, for long-term storage (more than a month), this is not recommended because of the risk of pressure drops when the temperature changes, which can lead to rupture of the seams.
How to lubricate valves before storage?
It is best to use silicone lubricant or a special composition for PVC. Do not use petroleum products (gasoline, kerosene, ordinary machine oil), as they can destroy rubber seals and the valve material itself.
What to do if the boat is still wet?
If you pack a wet boat, you should remove it, inflate it, and dry it as soon as you can (same day or the next), and if you leave it in this state for a week, you'll have a 99% chance of mold and bad smell.
Do I need to lubricate the paioles before laying?
Aluminum floorboards should be wiped with a dry cloth, and if they have any traces of corrosion, you can treat them with anticores, but let them dry completely before contact with the fabric, and the plywood can be treated with olive oil or varnish if it starts to swish around the edges.