The inflatable boat is not just a means of transportation by water, but often a full-fledged platform for fishing or recreation, where every detail must work faultlessly. One of the most important pieces of equipment that many owners miss when buying a basic equipment is the fact that the boat is a very expensive and expensive. anchorThe lack of a regular anchoring position causes fishermen to tie the rope to the liner cable or hold it with their hand, which poses a risk of losing gear or even tipping the vessel over in a sharp jerk.
Installing an additional shell bolt is a simple procedure, but it requires accuracy and understanding of the materials with which you work. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)The slurry, which is used to make the cylinders, has excellent elasticity, but requires a specific approach to gluing. Incorrectly selected glue or violation of surface preparation technology can lead to the fact that after a season the slug will come off along with a piece of fabric, leaving a hole in the balloon.
In this article, we will look at all the steps of the process, from choosing the right place to the final seal check, you will learn why you can not save on adhesive composition and how to turn a regular nut bolt into a reliable node that can withstand the weight of the anchor and the load when drifting. Proper installation will provide you with peace of mind while fishing on the current or wind.
Selection of installation site and necessary materials
The first thing to decide on before we start is the location, and the classic and safest place is the bow of the boat, which is right in the center at the junction of the cylinder and the bottom (the bottom of the beam), and this is where the load is distributed most evenly, and the anchor shaft will not rub against the side when sampled, and shifting the mounting point laterally can lead to a dangerous roll of the vessel in high winds.
You'll need a minimum set of tools and materials to work with, and the quality of the material that directly affects the outcome, and you shouldn't use cheap products that are designed for household shoe or plastic repairs, because they won't be able to withstand constant contact with water and UV light, and the basic element is the rump bolt itself, which is usually a metal brace on a threaded hairpin.
- 🔩 Rom-bolt. stainless steel or brass (carving size usually M8 or M10).
- 🧴 Two-component polyurethane glue for PVC (e.g., Kleyberg, Texakoll or specialized formulations).
- 📏 Solvent (acetone or white spirit) for degreasing surfaces.
- ✂️ Piece of PVC fabric for the manufacture of reinforcing "Pit" (diameter 10-12 cm).
- 🔧 Toolkit: scissors, brush, roller, marker, sandpaper.
⚠️ Attention: It is strongly recommended not to use conventional bolts without a wide pressing washer or a "fungus" on the back. Point pressure of metal on a sun-heated balloon can lead to tissue rupture or microcracks.
Surface preparation and enhancement opening
The success of the whole operation depends on 90 percent of the surface preparation quality. PVC fabric has a protective layer and possible factory dust that prevents the glue from entering the material structure. The installation site needs to be thoroughly washed with soap, dried and degreased with solvent. If you skip this step, the glue seam will only stay on the surface, not fused with the material.
Then you have to make a reinforcement pad, or "peep-up." To do this, you cut out a circle of about 10 to 12 centimeters in diameter from the residues of PVC fabric (preferably the same density as the boat cylinders) from the residues, and you make a neat bolt-carving hole in the center of the circle, and you can slightly melt the edges with a lighter so that the threads don't flin, but you have to do this carefully, without deforming the circle.
The surface of the balloon at the installation site and the back of the cut circle must be cleaned with fine sandpaper, which will create microroughness that increases the area of the clutch. Clean only the inner, matte side of the PVC fabric, the glossy outer layer cannot be touched. After cleaning, the dust is removed again and the surface is degreased again.
If you don't have any traces of native tissue from the boat, use a piece from an old but whole inflatable boat or buy a cut from a specialty store. It's important that the density of the tissue matches or is higher than the density of the cylinders.
Technology of gluing: step-by-step instructions
The gluing process requires compliance with the temperature regime and time intervals specified by the glue manufacturer. Most polyurethane formulations operate at temperatures from +15 ° C to +25 ° C. Cold glue does not penetrate the structure well, and in the heat it catches too quickly, without giving time for correction.
☑️ Checklist before gluing
We put the first thin layer of glue on both of the surfaces we stick together, the cleaned circle on the boat and the back of the "pig." We wait for the time specified in the instructions (usually 10-20 minutes) to "stick" when the glue stops sticking to the fingers, but still retains stickiness. Then we apply the second layer and wait again.
We combine the parts and we press it hard, pushing the air bubbles from the center to the edges. To evenly distribute the pressure, it is convenient to use a hard roller or screwdriver handle wrapped in cloth. Once the pin is glued, you need to let it dry for at least 12 to 24 hours before drilling the hole. Only after complete polymerization of the glue can you make a through hole and install the frack itself.
| Phase | Action. | Drying time | Importance |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Degreasing | 5-10 minutes | Critically. |
| 2 | First layer of glue | 15-20 minutes | High. |
| 3 | Second layer of glue | 10-15 minutes | High. |
| 4 | Final polymerization | 24 hours. | Critically. |
Installation of the shell bolt and sealing
When the glue is completely dry, you can start a mechanical installation, where in the center of the glued "peep" carefully drills or cuts a hole with a diameter corresponding to the thread of the bolt, and it is important not to make the hole too large, otherwise the leakage will be broken, and too small can break the thread when screwed.
On the inside of the balloon (if there is access), or just under the head of the bolt, a wide metal washer is necessarily installed outside. Between the puck and the fabric, you can put a thin rubber gasket for additional sealing. The bolt is inserted into the hole, and on the back side (inside the boat) a nut with a return washer is wound up.
What if there is no access to the balloon?
In some boat models, access to the inside of the cylinder through the valves is not possible, in which case a fry bolt design with a wide "hat" or "fungus" is used, which presses the fabric from the outside, and the use of a rubber gasket between the metal and PVC is mandatory.
To provide additional protection against moisture, the bolt thread and exit site can be smeared with silicone sealant for aquariums or marinas, which will prevent water from entering between the layers of fabric and metal, which is especially important for long-term use in salt water. The nut should be tightened moderately so as not to overwhelm the fabric, but also to leave no backlash.
Operational nuances and safety
Once the bolt is installed, you don't have to put it to the limit, let it sit for at least a couple of days in a pumped state to make sure there's no deformation, and remember that the inflatable boat has limited payload and stability.
The use of anchor on a PVC boat requires a special approach. Anchor falla The end of the rope should be attached to the rift through a burst insert (thin line or thread) or simply held with the hand/under the foot. This is necessary in case the anchor is caught by the drift: when the boat is jerking, it should be able to free itself, rather than overturn or get punctured.
⚠️ Warning: Never wind an anchor rope around your arm! with a sharp jerk of the anchor or the movement of the boat, this can lead to serious injury to the limb or pulling the person into the water.
Check the condition of the attachment site regularly. Metal and PVC have different coefficients of thermal expansion; in the sun, the metal heats up more strongly and can locally overheat the fabric; periodic examination will help to identify the first signs of adhesive detachment or metal corrosion.
Frequent errors in installation
Many beginners make the typical mistakes that negate all efforts, the most common being rushing, trying to load the crum an hour after gluing ensures that the part is removed at the first serious load, and the glue must gain full strength, otherwise the joint will work like scotch.
Another mistake is to use the wrong glue: cyanoacrylate-based adhesives or plastic solvents make PVC brittle. Over time, the glue site forms a "glass" zone that cracks on the bend. Use only specialized two-component PVC formulations.
- ❌ No "pitch": glue the squirrel directly onto the cylinder without reinforcing lining.
- ❌ Bad degreasing: The remaining fat will not allow the glue to penetrate the structure.
- ❌ Too tight a puff.: may damage the cylinder fabric at the opening site.
- ❌ Ignoring the weather: gluing in a cold or wet room.
The main rule of installation is not to save on drying time and glue quality, reliability of the unit is more important than speed of work.
Can I use epoxy resin to glue the squirrel?
No, epoxy resin is not elastic and is not designed to glue flexible PVC materials. When pumping the boat and deforming the balloon, the epoxy will simply crack and peel off, leaving the damaged area of tissue.
What diameter of a bolt is optimal for a boat 3 meters long?
For boats up to 3.5 meters long and up to 400 kg load capacity, a loose bolt with M8 thread is usually sufficient. For larger vessels (3.6 m and above), it is better to use the M10, since the load on the anchor assembly increases significantly.
Do I need to shoot poop for the winter?
You don't have to remove the rum if it's made of quality stainless steel. However, if the boat is kept deflated in a cold room, the metal can oxidize. It's better to lubricate the thread with graphite lubrication or to preserve it so that you don't have to cut the rusted nut in the spring.