Meeting a strong current for the owner of an inflatable vessel is always a moment of truth, where the theory is tested by practice, and comfortable fishing can instantly turn into a fight for the safety of property. anchor The only way to ensure the stability of a light inflatable boat in an environment where the flow of water has significant kinetic energy, unlike heavy metal boats, is not just a whim. PVC-boat They have a low weight and high sailing, which makes them extremely vulnerable to lateral demolition and turning the side to the wave.
The main purpose of such a staging is to fix the vessel strictly along the current (nose or stern to wave), completely eliminating the risk of getting a blow to the side, which for inflatable tubes often ends with a puncture against driftwoods or stones. ploughing It allows you to fish comfortably, not to twitch constantly on the nose or on the stern, and sleep well, not afraid that the boat will rip off and take you into the open water. Let's take a look at the technical details, the equipment and the step-by-step algorithm of actions that will save you from trouble.
Selection of anchoring device for PVC boats In a current where the load on the anchor cable increases many times, the usual light cats may be useless if the bottom is slippery clay or grassy bottom. In order to safely hold a vessel weighing up to 400 kg with crew and equipment for an average force, the total weight of the anchors is at least 10-12 kg, distributed equally or with a preponderance towards the bow.
⚠️ Attention: Never use as anchoring cargo on a strong current stones tied to a rope, they are rounded and slide off the uneven bottom when jerking, which can lead to instant demolition of the boat.
The optimal solution for flow is considered to be anchor type. denforth or Halla.They're very hookable, but they require more storage space, and foldable boats are a more versatile and popular option for inflatable boats. cat anchor It is important that the legs of such anchors have gins or additional spines that provide a reliable grip on the bottom.
Particular attention should be paid anchor-ropeThe chain in an inflatable boat is not advisable because of the risk of cylinder damage and excess weight, the best choice is a wicker polypropylene cord or a specialized phalanx that does not absorb water, does not rot and has minimal extensibility, the diameter of the cord should be selected so that it can withstand triple the load of the weight of the vessel, but it is comfortable to lie in the hand.
Before the beginning of active actions, you need to conduct thorough preparation, because in strong water there will be almost no time to correct errors. anchor-royme (Rings for fastening), which must be installed on transom or bow reinforcements, if your boat is not equipped with a stern fracking, its installation is mandatory before attempting to anchor with two anchors.
The second stage is to prepare the anchors themselves. folding-anchor The cables must be unwrapped and placed in separate containers (anchor tanks or just on the bottom of the boat) so that they do not get confused when choosing. A tangled cable on the flow is a direct route to loss of anchor or damage to the engine screw.
☑️ Checking before anchoring
The third thing is to assess the environment, to visually determine the direction of the main current and the presence of local vortices, and to make sure that downstream there are no dams, whirlpools or other obstacles that the boat can take down in the event of a cliff, and only after all the points are completed can you start maneuvering.
There are two basic anchoring schemes: the fan (scattering) and the corridor. For fishing on the flow, especially if you plan to catch at a particular point (on the jet or behind an obstacle), the most effective scheme is the scheme. squanderIt allows you to rigidly lock the boat in a given position, eliminating lateral displacement.
The essence of the method is that first anchor from the nose against the current. After the bow of the boat has turned and risen with the flow, you need to carefully, working with oars or using short-term engine switches (if depth and safety permits), move upstream or sideways to lower the second anchor from the stern.
It is important to understand the physics of the process: if the current is very strong, the boat can begin to turn immediately after the first anchor is set, in which case the second anchor is better to start in advance, being above the parking point, and poison its phala as the boat is demolished down. It is critical not to confuse the sequence: first, always anchored on the side where the boat is carried by the current (usually the nose), and only then fixed stern.
The fan technique is often used to position correctly, and you anchor from your nose, then you shift perpendicular to the current (running with oars) by the length of the sagging of the stern and lower the second anchor, and then you pick the bow until the boat gets exactly between the two points of the hook, forming a triangle.
⚠️ Attention: When anchored with two anchors, it is strictly forbidden to sharply pull the cables or give full thrust with the engine if the anchor shaft is wound on the leg or thrown over the side, this can lead to serious injuries or overturning of the boat.
What to do if the current is too strong?
