The approach of cold weather poses an inevitable question for every boater: how to keep the engine in perfect condition until the next navigation. Incorrect or hasty preservation of the outboard motor can lead to serious financial losses as early as spring. Corrosion, frozen fuel, oxidation of contacts are only a few of the problems that equipment owners face after hibernation.
Well, it takes time and understanding the chemistry inside the unit, and you don't just have to wash away the dirt, you also have to create a protective environment for all the components. Two-stroke and four-stroke The engines have their own nuances, which are unacceptable to ignore. In this article, we will examine each stage in detail, so that your engine can be used in a different way. Yamaha, Tohatsu or Honda It started the first time after winter.
The conservation process is a set of measures to protect the metal, rubber seals and fuel system, and mistakes at any stage can be fatal, such as the gasoline left in the float chamber will turn into a resin that will completely clog the carburettor's jellyplates.
Primary washing and external inspection of the unit
The first step is always to thoroughly clean the outside of the engine of salt deposits, dirt and algae, salt is a powerful catalyst for corrosion, and if left unchecked, it will erode the metal all winter, even in a dry garage. Use fresh water at moderate pressure, trying not to damage the stickers and paint coatings of the lower unit.
Look closely at the state of the dreadwut for chipped paint. Any scratch to the metal is a future rust spot. If you find such defects, they need to be degreased and painted with a special anti-corrosion spray or engine paint. anodes They also require inspection: if they are used more than half, their replacement is mandatory before storage.
⚠️ Attention: Never use high-pressure sinks (kerkerkers) to wash daydvut and especially electrical units. A powerful jet can push the glands through, driving water inside the gearbox or under the ignition system cover, resulting in expensive repairs.
After washing, let the engine dry completely. Moisture should not remain anywhere, especially in hard-to-reach places where the casings are attached. Wipe all surfaces with soft rags. Pay special attention to the area around the deidwoot, where water and dirt often accumulate.
Check the state of the diewut and propeller. The presence of bullies or dents may indicate hidden problems with the diewut tube. Make sure that all mount bolts are tightened and the lower unit has no backlashes. Mercury and Suzuki often have specific points of inspection specified in the manual, they should not be neglected.
Fuel system: drainage or stabilization?
Fuel is a top priority, because it is the main cause of problems with starting in the spring. Modern gasoline with environmental additives tends to decompose and lose its properties after 3-4 months. When the light fractions evaporate, there is a thick resinous mass that is dead-bogged carburetor or fuel injectors.
There are two basic approaches to conserving the fuel system: the first is to drain the fuel completely from the tank, the hoses and the carburetor. fuel stabilizerThe method of storing the mixture for up to a year depends on your preferences and the type of motor, but both require strict adherence to the technology.
If you choose the drain method, you have to start the engine after emptying the tank and let it produce the remaining gasoline in the system. This is critical for carburetor engines. The engine has to generate all the gasoline from the float chamber until it dies. For injection systems, the procedure can be different and require a pump to relieve pressure.
When you use a stabilizer, you add it to a full tank, mix it and let the motor run for 5-10 minutes, so that the additive-rich mixture passes through the system, and this creates a protective film on the inner surfaces. Leave a full tank without a stabilizer for the winter is categorically impossible - condensate falling on the walls of a half-empty tank, mixes with fuel and causes corrosion.
Engine and gearbox lubrication system
Replacing the oil in the gearbox is a mandatory procedure before wintering. During operation, water can enter the gearbox oil through microscopic damage to the ossels. When it freezes, water expands and can tear the gearbox body or squeeze out the ossels. So the old oil is drained and the new oil is poured just before storage.
For four-stroke engines, engine oil replacement is also mandatory. Waste oil contains combustion products and acid compounds that can erode the insides of the engine during the winter. Pour the old oil while the engine is warm to remove the maximum amount of suspension. Pour the fresh oil to the desired level.
| Service node | Action. | Frequency | Importance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reductor oil | Replacement | Every winter / 100 motor hours | Critically. |
| Motor oil (4T) | Replacement | Every winter / 100 motor hours | High. |
| Fuel filter | Replacement/Cleaning | As of today | High. |
| Ignition plugs | Cleaning/Replacement | Every winter. | Medium |
Two-stroke engines with a separate oil tank (injection) require pumping of the system, you need to make sure that the oil supply hoses are free of air traffic jams, and the tank itself is filled with quality oil for winter storage. TC-W3 or synthetic analogues must be fresh, so as not to lose lubricating properties.
Check the condition of the oil filter (if you have one in your model). On many modern four-strokes, the filter changes once a season or every season. The dirty filter will create resistance to the oil current, which, when started cold in the spring, can lead to oil starvation and bullying in the cylinder.
Processing of candles and cylinder group
Ignition plugs are an indicator of the health of your engine. You need to twist them out and carefully inspect them before you can preserve them. The color of the charcoal tells you a lot: black dry soda indicates a rich mixture, white or melted electrode indicates overheating or poor mixture, and red or brown plaque indicates the proper operation of the engine.
After inspecting and cleaning (or replacing) the candles, you need to mothball the cylinder. To do this, 5-10 ml of special preservative oil or ordinary engine oil is injected into the candle hole of each cylinder. Then you need to slowly turn the crankshaft several times (pulling the starter cord or scrolling the starter) so that the oil is distributed along the walls of the cylinder and piston rings.
When you twist the candles back after you canned, don't tighten them to the end. Leave them slightly unturned to eliminate the risk of hydraulic shock if condensation accidentally hits the cylinder, and to create a buffer zone of pressure.
It's important not to confuse this with a normal replacement, but the goal here is to create an oil fog inside the engine. hydro-od This is a terrible phenomenon that can happen if the cylinder is left with liquid (gasoline or water) and when you try to start the piston will rest in an incompressible environment, so after injection of oil and scrolling the candle it is better to twist not to the end or leave open if the motor is stored in a warm room, but for garage storage it is safer to twist them completely, having previously made sure that the piston is in the upper dead point.
If your engine is equipped with a system of oil injection into cylinders (automatic lubrication 2T), make sure that the system is filled with oil. Some masters recommend after the cylinders are preserved with oil also treat the outer parts of the engine WD-40 or similar "vedeshka" to displace moisture from the electrical connectors.
Protection against corrosion and electrician
The electrical part of the outboard motor is not so much afraid of water as of the oxidation of contacts due to temperature and humidity changes. Once the motor is dry, it is recommended to treat all electrical connectors, ignition coils and the stator with a moisture dispenser spray, which will create a thin protective film to prevent the contact oxidation.
Pay special attention to lower unit. If it has chips, it should be painted over. lower unit metal is in constant contact with aggressive environments, and even in the garage, the salt residue can continue its destructive work. Use anti-corrosion sprays for external treatment. Yamalube and Quicksilver They are very good at protecting the lower unit.
☑️ Final pre-storage check
Don't forget the propeller. It needs to be removed, cleaned of winding fishing lines or algae, lubricated with solidol or lithium lubrication shaft and propeller. This will prevent the propeller from sticking to the shaft, which often happens after winter. Also check the condition of the screw coil - if there is a backlash or leak, repair is better not to postpone.
Rules of storage and transportation
Keep the outboard motor strictly upright. Inclination or lying position can lead to leakage of oil from the gearbox or crankcase of the engine, as well as deformation of the lower unit. If the motor is on the boat, make sure that the transom withstands weight and does not deform under load during the winter.
The ideal storage area is a dry, ventilated room with a constant temperature. Sharp temperature changes contribute to the formation of condensation inside the nodes. If the motor is stored outside under an awning, be sure to cover it with a breathable cover to avoid the greenhouse effect that will accelerate corrosion and destroy rubber elements.
⚠️ Attention: Don't put a thick plastic film on the engine, and it's bound to create condensation underneath, which will negate all your conservation efforts, use special breathing covers, or leave gaps for ventilation.
If you store the engine in an unheated garage where severe frosts are possible, it is recommended to remove the battery (if any) and put it into the heat, periodically recharged. The engine itself can be covered with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but only if ventilation is provided.
Do I need to take the engine off the boat for the winter?
Removing the motor from the boat for the winter is recommended for several reasons: First, it reduces the load on the PVC or aluminum boat transom, which can deform under the weight of the motor and snow. Second, the motor is more easily maintained in an upright position on the rack or in a drawer and protected from rodents who often chew on wires in search of heat. If you can not remove the motor, make sure that the boat is on a flat surface, and the motor is securely fixed and closed from dust and moisture.>
Frequent errors in conservation
Many owners make common mistakes that make them less than they can, and the most common is laziness about fuel, leaving the tank full without a stabilizer, or empty (where condensation will fall out), is a direct route to fuel system repair, and remember that modern gasoline doesn't last long.
Another mistake is ignoring the gearbox, the water in the gearbox freezes and expands, even a small amount of moisture can split the body or squeeze out the osteoils, always change the oil in the gearbox before winter, even if it is still "normal" on the motor clock.
Also often forgotten about lower unit. The salt and dirt left over do their job. A motor that hasn't been washed or smeared from the outside can become covered in a layer of rust by spring that will be difficult to remove without damaging the paint.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Should I start the engine in winter during storage?
It's not recommended to run the engine in the garage or outside in the winter without a cooling system. Dry work, even for a minute, can lead to overheating and bullying. If you want to stretch the engine, you'd better put it in a warm room the day before you start, let it warm up and then start it, providing water flow, but for a canned engine, this is not necessary.
Can the motor be kept in a horizontal position?
Storage in a horizontal position is undesirable. This can lead to leakage of oil from the crankcase (in 4T engines) or gearbox, as well as deformation of the lower unit. If there is no other way out, the motor should be placed on a special side (usually right, if you look from the back), before draining all liquids, but it is better to avoid this position.
How long does the canned motor last?
With proper use of fuel stabilizers and high-quality cylinder preservation, the engine can be stored for 12 months or more without starting problems, but if you used conventional gasoline without additives, the safe storage period is reduced to 3-4 months.
Should I take lower unit off the boat?
You don't have to remove the lower unit completely for storage, you just have to remove the propeller, change the oil, and wash the knot, you only need to disassemble the whole thing for repair, but you need to remove the motor from the boat for proper storage and maintenance of the transom.