Long-term downtime is a major challenge for any power unit, whether it is a car, a generator or an outboard motor. Trying to start the engine dry after months of inactivity often results in critical damage, such as a pivot of liners or bullies in cylinders, which is why the question of how to start the engine correctly after a long downtime requires not just turning the key, but careful preparation.
In the process of conservation, lubrication may have flowed into the nodes of friction, and condensation or paraffin deposits may have formed in the fuel system. Ignoring these factors turns the first run into a lottery with expensive prizes in the form of overhauls. In this article, we will discuss an algorithm of actions that will minimize wear and safely bring the equipment out of hibernation.
Analysis of engine condition before start-up
Before trying to spin the starter, you need to conduct visual and tactile diagnosis. External examination It reveals clear leaks of technical fluids that may have been formed due to the drying of rubber seals during idle time. Pay attention to the state of the pipes and hoses: rubber blubbers and cracks over time, losing its tightness.
Special attention should be paid to the lubrication system. If the motor was standing outside or in an unheated room, the oil could thicken or get saturated with moisture. In outboard motors, this is critical, because water could get into the crankcase through the gums. Checking the level and quality of the oil is the first step that should not be missed.
⚠️ Attention: If the oil level on the probe is much higher than normal and it has a milky shade, it is strictly forbidden to start the engine! This is a sign of antifreeze or water entering the crankcase, which will lead to a hydraulic shock when working.
Also, consider the air filter, because during the downtime, the filter element could have been filled with rodents that left nests behind, or simply accumulated moisture, and a clogged airtight filter would keep the engine from breathing, which would make the mixture over-enriched and inability to start.
Inspection and preparation of the fuel system
The fuel tends to spoil. The ethanol can dissipate in 3-6 months, forming an aggressive sediment that clogs the jelly of the carburetor or injector injector injectors. The diesel fuel paraffinizes in winter to become a gel. drainage A mandatory procedure before starting the engine.
If you can't drain the fuel completely, you need to at least add fresh, high-octane liquid and special stabilizing additives. Yamaha or MercuryIt is often required to blow the system with compressed air to remove lacquer deposits from the channels.
- 🛢️ Pour all old gasoline or diesel out of the tank and replace the fuel filters.
- 💧 Check the fuel lines for cracks and hardening.
- 🧪 Add an additive to the tank to remove moisture and clean the injector/carburetor.
- 🔍 Check the water bottle (if any) for water and sediment.
Before starting, it makes sense to turn on the ignition several times (without turning the starter) so that the gas pump raises the pressure in the system, which will ensure normal mixture formation on the first attempt.
Restoration of the lubrication and cooling system
The main problem with long downtime is the lack of oil film on rubbing parts. The first time the metal is in contact with the metal until the pump pumps the oil. To avoid bullies, experienced mechanics recommend pre-draining the engine with oil. To do this, twist the candles or nozzles and inject a little oil into the cylinders with a syringe, and then several times turn the crankshaft with a starter. sparkless.
The cooling system also requires testing. Antifreeze may lose its anti-corrosion properties or evaporate, leaving the channels dry. In outboard motors, be sure to check the presence of water in the pump - the rubber impeller during prolonged dry idleness deforms and can crumble at the first start.
How to check the oil pump without starting?
Remove the oil pressure sensor and scroll the engine with a starter. If oil comes out of the hole, the pump is running. If it's not, maybe the oil receiver is clogged or the pump is malfunctioning.
Don't forget to check the coolant level in the expansion tank. If the system was sealed, the level should not fall much. However, if you see traces of rust or oil film on the surface of the antifreeze, the system should be flushed.
Diagnostics of electrics and battery
The battery is the first replacement after winter. Even a new battery loses charge when it is down, and a deeply discharged lead-acid current source can sulfate and become unusable. Before putting the terminal in place, oxides must be cleaned and the battery itself charged with low-power current.
Checking electrical circuits involves examining wires for rodent damage. Mice often chew wires, especially those that contain soybean in the braid, and it's also worth checking the sensor connectors - oxidized contacts can give false readings to the ECU, which will cause the engine to run unstable or go into emergency mode.
| Parameter | Norma. | Critical significance | Action. |
|---|---|---|---|
| ABC voltage | 12.6 - 12.9 B | Less than 10.5 V | Charging or replacement |
| Electrolyte density | 1.27 g/cm3 | Less than 1.20 g/cm3 | Charging. |
| Oil level | Between Min and Max | Below Min | Additive to normal |
| Tyre pressure. | Manually | Low. | Pumping |
If the dashboard after the ignition lights up extra error lamps, do not ignore them. computer diagnostics before starting will help to identify faulty sensors that can interfere with the correct operation of the engine.
☑️ Checklist before first launch
Technology of the first start of the engine
When all the checks are passed, you can move to the most critical moment: if the engine is carburetor, you may need to pump the fuel manually (press the pear or the pump lever). For injection motors, it is enough to turn on the ignition for a few seconds and turn off, repeating the procedure 2-3 times to create pressure.
When starting, don't keep the starter on for longer than 10-15 seconds. If the engine doesn't catch, let the starter cool for a minute. After a successful start, don't gas sharply - let the oil disperse around the system at idle speed. Control the oil pressure lamp: it should go out in 3-5 seconds.
⚠️ Attention: If after starting you hear a knock, metal clang or saw smoke from under the hood - immediately turn off the engine! Continuation of work will lead to fatal consequences.
The engine should warm up smoothly. Don't put the load on it right away. Let the engine go to operating temperature, check for leaks and noises, and then you can check the cooling fan.
When you first start, keep a fire extinguisher and rags on hand. A spark in the starter or a burst of hot gases can ignite the remnants of oil or gasoline.
breaking in and access to operating modes
After a successful start and initial warm-up, it is recommended to make a short trip or put the load on the engine (for generators and outboard motors), this will help to finally warm up the knots and burn off the scorch. However, it is still worth avoiding high turns in the first 30-50 kilometers (or motor hours).
During the break-in process after downtime, carefully monitor engine temperature and oil pressure. Sharp temperature spikes can indicate problems with the thermostat or pump. For outboard motors, it is important to make sure that the control stream of water is stable, which indicates that the water pump is working normally.
If all parameters are normal, you can go to normal operation, but the first full maintenance cycle (oil and filter replacement) after a long downtime is better to reduce, replacing the oil after 50-100 hours or kilometers to remove the products of initial wear.
The most important step is the first 5 minutes of operation, which is when 80% of engine wear occurs after downtime, if the proper preparation is not done.
Can I start the engine in winter without changing oil?
It's not recommended, because old oil loses its properties, it contains wear products and acid compounds, and running it is equivalent to running the engine without lubrication, which will cause the liners and the piston group to fail quickly.
How long does the engine have to last to be considered “after downtime”?
The critical period is considered to be simple for more than 3 months, during which time the fuel begins to decompose and the oil starts to drain from rubbing surfaces. For equipment that costs more than six months, complete preservation or, conversely, a special procedure for reconstitution is required.
What if the engine does not start after all the tests?
If there is a spark and a fuel flow to the cylinders, if there is a spark and the gasoline is coming in, there may be a mishap of the timing phase (a belt jumped) or a compression problem (a valve clamped) Diagnosing of the mechanical part.