Installation timber It's one of the most effective solutions for protecting your boat's inflatable side from mechanical damage, and it takes the impact of mooring to concrete piers, touching rocks in shallow water, and rubbing against wooden flooring, and without good quality edging, the risk of damaging the balloon when pulling it ashore increases dramatically.
The installation process requires not only the correct materials, but also strict adherence to surface preparation technology. Polyvinyl chlorideThe slurry, which is used to make the boats, has a specific structure that requires a special approach to adhesion, and errors in degreasing or applying glue can lead to detachment of the timber at the most inopportune time.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the entire cycle of work: from the choice of two-component glue to the final test of the seam. work-spaceWhy not rush to dry and how to ensure the tightness of the connection, which will last for many years.
Selection of materials: glue, timber and tools
The first step in any quality repair or tuning is to select compatible components. PVC fabrics (polyvinyl chloride) are not suitable universal adhesives based on water or cyanacrylate compounds ("superglues"). They create a rigid, brittle compound that breaks down when the cylinder deforms.
The best choice is polyurethane adhesive with hardener, which, after polymerization, retains elasticity, withstanding the compression-expansion cycles of the material as temperature and pressure change. Two-component glue provides chemical fusion of surfaces, turning the beam and the side into a monolith.
- 🧪 Polyurethane glue The basis for reliable fixation, often sold in sets with hardener.
- 🛡️ Layer-bar - a profile of soft rubber or PVC, usually 20-30 mm wide, with or without a cord cavity.
- 🧪 Solvent acetone or a special degreasing agent for preparing the surface of the tissue.
- 🖌️ Brush and spatula - for applying glue and smoothing the profile.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use glues containing toluene in high concentrations if you plan to operate the boat at low temperatures - the seam can become brittle in the cold.
You'll need it too. hairdryer To activate the adhesive layer (if hot gluing technology is used) or simply to accelerate drying, as well as the downcast roller, the quality of the pressing directly affects the strength of the final joint.
When buying glue, pay attention to its color after drying - for light boats it is better to take transparent compositions to avoid yellow spots.
Preparation of the surface - the key to durability
The pre-production phase is often underestimated as a secondary stage, but it is the one that determines 80% of the success of the entire operation: the surface of the balloon must be absolutely clean, dry and matte. Any contamination, dust or factory lubrication will create a barrier that prevents the glue from entering the structure. tissue.
Start by thoroughly washing the installation site. Use warm water with a mild detergent to remove dirt and salt deposits. After drying, you need to mechanically clean the installation site. Use small sandpaper (grain 180-240) or a special abrasive sponge.
☑️ Preparation for gluing
Not only should the side be cleaned, but the inner surface of the timber should be cleaned, the movements should be light so as not to damage the reinforcing layer of the fabric, but sufficient to create roughness.
If more than 30-40 minutes have passed after treatment, the procedure must be repeated, since dust and condensate settles on the surface again.
Technology of applying glue and gluing
The gluing process requires precision and time intervals specified by the adhesive manufacturer. Usually, the technology involves the application of two layers. The first layer is applied thinly and rubbed into the surface, saturating the surface. poreIt must dry completely, often to the point of not sticking to the finger.
The second layer is applied more abundantly, and that's when you're often activated by heating, and if you use a glue that requires thermal activation, it's heated with a hair dryer to 50-60 degrees Celsius, which makes the adhesive layer sticky and ready to join.
Why is it important to withstand drying time?
If you glue the surfaces too early, the solvent will not have time to evaporate, forming bubbles, if you hold them, the glue will lose its stickiness, and the adhesion will be weak.
When you connect the beam to the board, it's important to avoid air. Sticking starts from the middle or from the nose, gradually smoothing the profile to the edges. Use a hard roller or dense fabric to press the beam with effort, squeezing out excess glue.
And if you use a whole bar, you're going to carefully cut the ends and stick them together, or with a little overlap, which is then grinded, and the quality of this piece is critical, because it's the ends that most often start to peel off first.
| Parameter | Cold gluing | Hot gluing |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature. | Room (+15..+25°C) | Heating to 50-60°C |
| Time to dry | Longer (up to 24 hours) | Hurry up (3-5 hours) |
| Strength of the seam | High. | Maximum |
| Equipment | Not required | It needs a hair dryer. |
Features of working with different types of profiles
The main bars come in many designs, the most common ones being profiles with a cavity inside (where you can skip the safety liner) and solid rubber bands. Cavity profile It is more difficult to install, as it requires accurate alignment of edges, but more functional.
When working with a soft rubber profile, it is important not to stretch it excessively when sticking. The rubber has a shape memory and will try to shrink over time, which will cause the edges to detach.
If you are placing a bar on a high-pressure inflatable keel (HDP) boat, make sure the profile does not overlap the valves or mounting points of the stringers. These areas often make technological breaks or use narrower inserts.
For boats from Hypalon (rarely, but it is) the technology may differ and require special primers, for a standard PVC awning or board of a sufficient quality polyurethane adhesive.
Removal of defects and typical errors
Even skilled craftsmen sometimes have problems, and one of the most common is the appearance of air bubbles under the bar, and if you notice a bubble right away, you can try to squeeze it out to the edge, and if the glue is already grasped, the bubble is neatly punctured with a thin needle, a syringe is inserted with a little glue or activator, and pressed hard.
A common mistake is not enough degreasing, in which case the bar is released whole layers, and the fabric remains a layer of glue, which can be removed mechanically (rolling fingers) or using special washes, but it is a time-consuming process.
⚠️ Warning: Never try to glue the bar to a wet or cold cloth (below +10 C.) Condensate, protruding when heated, will destroy the adhesive seam instantly.
Another defect is the "step" at the junction, and to avoid abrupt transition, the edges of the bar are negated by cutting them off with a sharp knife at an angle, creating a smooth profile, which also reduces the risk of catching a bar when driving on a boat.
The quality of gluing directly depends on the purity of the surface and the exact observance of the aging time of the glue before joining the parts.
Post-installation care and operation
Once the work is done, the boat needs to be given time to fully polymerize the adhesive, and although the stickiness goes away after a few hours, the seams gain final strength after 24 to 72 hours, during which time it is not recommended to inflate the cylinders to maximum pressure or launch the boat into the water.
The beam takes the brunt of the load when it's in operation, and you have to check it regularly, especially after seasons of active fishing or stony rivers, and it's normal to have small bullies on the outside of the beam, and that's his job.
To clean the timber from dirt and mud, use soft sponges. Aggressive chemicals can overdry the rubber, making it brittle. Once a season, it is useful to treat the rubber parts with special air conditioners to protect against the tyres. ultraviolet and drying out.
Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to forget about the problems with the board for many years, while maintaining the tightness and appearance of your boat.
Can I put a sleeve on a boat that has already been assembled and inflated?
Technically, it's possible, but it's very inconvenient and risky, because the boat has to be securely fixed to prevent any movement during gluing, and it's also difficult to access the bottom of the side, and it's better to work on deflated but straightened cylinders.
How to replace a special glue for PVC in an emergency?
No full-fledged analogue. In extreme cases, you can use adhesives like "Moment" for rubber, but their durability on water under load will be low, it is a temporary solution that requires reworking at the earliest opportunity.
Do I need to remove the old bar before the new one is labeled?
Yes, if the old bar is damaged or unstuck, you can't stick the new one over the old one, it has to be flat, the old layer is carefully cut off, the glue is removed, and the surface is completely re-prepared.
How to keep a boat with a glued timber?
The boat should be stored in a dry, cool place, in a cover, it is advisable not to leave it in a highly compressed state for a long time, so that there are no cracks at the site of the beam bend, the optimal - hang or put on a flat shelf.