Installing a sonar on an inflatable vessel is not just a technical procedure, but a key step in preparing for efficient fishing. PVC The softness of the sides and the transom dictates its own rules of the game, ignoring which can damage an expensive device or even puncture the balloon.
The main difficulty is that sounder It must be submerged in water at a certain angle, but it does not create excessive resistance. An improperly attached emitter will disrupt the flow of water at high speeds, giving false readings or completely losing the bottom signal. In addition, the vibration of the motor is transmitted to the entire body, which creates additional interference to the electronics.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the nuances of installation, from choosing the optimal location to sealing connections, you will learn how to protect the cable from rubbing and why. rigidity This is more important than a metal boat, and the right installation will ensure that the device will work in all conditions of operation.
Choosing the optimal location for installing the emitter
The first and most critical step is to determine the mounting point. In inflatable boats, space is limited, and the geometry of the bottom often prevents the sensor from being perfectly centered. You need to find a clean zone where the water flow will not swirl with the structural elements or the irregularities of the transomb. Most often, the bottom part is the optimal place. coatboardIf it's wide enough.
If the transom is narrow or complex, you have to find compromises. Some anglers try to fix the sensor right on the cylinder, but this is the worst option. Soft surface will not provide the necessary rigidity, and even minimal ripples will turn into a strong noise on the device screen. PVC.
The cable length should also be considered when choosing a location. Standard wires are often about 6 meters long, which may not be enough to display a boat on the bow if the screen is located there. boat-engineThe propeller must not create a bubble track that will block the ultrasound signal.
It's important to make sure that there are no air pockets at the selected point. Even a microscopic air bubble between the emitter and the water completely blocks the signal from passing. The surface should be smooth, without protrusions, bolt heads or cylinder joints. The ideal installation is when the sensor is in the bottom plane or slightly submerged relative to it.
Preparation of tools and materials for installation
Before drilling holes or sticking elements, you need to assemble a complete set of tools. Working with an inflatable boat requires accuracy, so the kit must include not only standard screwdrivers, but also specific materials for sealing.
You will need the following tools and consumables:
- 🔧 A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills of different diameters for careful passage through materials.
- 🧴 Special glue for PVC (single or two-component) and degreasing agent.
- 🔩 A set of stainless fittings (bolts, nuts, washers), resistant to corrosion in salt water.
- 📏 Roulette and marker for accurate marking of fastening points.
Special attention should be paid to the choice of glue. Epoxy resins are often used to fix elements on the tray board, but polyurethane adhesive is better suited to work with the material of the boat itself or protective linings. It retains elasticity after drying, which is critical for the drying out of the water. squirrel-stuffwhich are subject to deformation.
☑️ Checklist for installation
Also, don't forget to use the safety gear. When you're working with chemicals and power tools, keep your eyes and hands safe. If you're planning to solder the wires or install additional connectors, you'll need a soldering iron and shrink the heat, and all the connections need to be protected from moisture, because if you get water into the electronics, it'll break down.
Technology of installation on a hard transom
If you PVC It's equipped with a rigid squirrel board of moisture-resistant plywood or plastic, which makes it much easier to do, and it's a solid surface that allows you to get a stable signal and minimize the risk of damage to the body, but it has its own nuances about the thickness of the material and the need to keep it tight.
The process of installation is this: first, you put a place under the sensor, then the hole is drilled. It is important to use a drill with a limiter or control the depth so that you do not damage the opposite side of the transmolor or cylinder, if the board is removable. sealant or varnish to prevent moisture from entering the structure of the material.
The sensor is installed through a drilled hole using a special fastener, often with plastic nuts and rubber gaskets that cannot be ignored, they serve as a damper and sealer, the puff should be moderate: too weak will lead to a backlash, and excessive can split the plastic case of the sensor or deform the transom.
To improve reliability, many anglers use additional large diameter reinforcement washers on the back of the transom, which distributes the load from the vibration of the motor over a large area. If the transom is made of multi-layer plywood, it is also recommended that the end of the hole be soaked with moisture-repellent compound, since water can penetrate the layers of wood.
Softboard fastening of the sensor and alternative methods
It is common for a rigid transom to be absent or too narrow, and in such cases, you have to use a direct softboard attachment or a transitional structure, a riskier method that requires maximum attention to detail so as not to damage. balloon.
The basic principle here is to create a rigid site, the sensor can not be glued or screwed directly to PVC. First, a rigid plate of plastic or dural is glued to the balloon (in the area of the transom), the plate should be large enough to distribute the load, the glue is applied to the fat-free surface, after which it takes time for polymerization according to the manufacturer's instructions.
An alternative and often safer method is to use removable brackets, which are attached to transom stringer hoists or to special loops, and there are holder models that cover the balloon without requiring adhesive attachment, which allows you to remove the equipment at any time and not disturb the integrity of the boat.
With any softboard attachment method, it is critical to control the angle of inclination, which must be adjusted, because when you change the load of the boat (either one angler or full crew), the dip angle of the transom changes. If the sensor is too high, it will catch air; if it is too low, it will create parasitic resistance.
Cable laying and connection protection
Properly laying the cable is the key to the longevity of the entire system. In an inflatable boat, the wires are subjected to constant ultraviolet light, water and mechanical stress. Carelessly thrown cord can cause injury or loss of signal at the most inopportune time.
The cable should be laid along the side, fixing it with special clips or Velcro straps. You should not allow sagging loops into which the leg or tackle can catch. In places of inflection, especially at the entrance to the boat hull or to the screen, it is recommended to use a corrugated tube or spiral braid to protect against rubbing.
| Protection type | Where to apply | Benefits | Disadvantages |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |--- |
| Thermal shrink | Wire connections | Tightness, rigidity | Requires heating, disposable |
| Insulation (PVC) | Temporary fixation | Accessibility, elasticity | Sliding, sticking dirt |
| Corrugated | Sections along the side | Mechanical strength | Rigidity, volume |
| Silicone sealant | Entrance to connectors | Moisture resistance | Long dry, dirty |
Pay special attention to the connection points of the wires. If you build a cable or install a fast connector, use soldering, not twisting. twisted wires in vibration quickly oxidize and lose contact. The soldering site is isolated by a shrink tube with a glue layer, which, when heated, creates a monolithic waterproof connection.
The cable is better inserted into the cockpit of the boat through regular drain holes or through valves if the design allows. If you have to make a new passage, use special sealants. These are a rubber bushing with petals that tightly squeeze the cable and prevent water from entering the boat even when the unit is completely submerged.
Setup and testing of the system on water
Once the installation work is complete, there's a test phase, so you don't have to wait for the big water for the first test, you can do the initial check at home, in the bathroom or in the bucket, by putting the sensor in water and turning on the device, which will help you make sure that the electronics work before you go out to the pond.
On the water, testing is done in several stages. At first, the boat is stationary. The screen should show a clear line of the bottom. If you see "noise" bands or the signal is interrupted, check the angle of the sensor and the presence of air bubbles under the emitter. Sometimes it helps to lightly sway the boat to shake off the air.
Then you go on the move, start with a small engine speed, gradually increasing the speed, watch how the image behaves, if the signal is lost at speed, then the sensor is taking air or in the zone of turbulence, in which case you need to adjust its position by sinking or shifting it to the side.
Remember to check the device at different loads of the boat. The weight distribution of passengers affects the boat's trim, the position that is ideal for one person can become non-working for three, ideally you need to find a compromise position or be able to quickly adjust the angle of inclination.
Typical errors and security measures
Installing equipment on an inflatable vessel carries risks that you need to know about in advance. The most common mistake is using the wrong fasteners. Conventional black screws will rust in one season and leak rust, spoiling the appearance and structure of the material. stainless-steel Or brass.
Another common mistake is to ignore vibrations, and a rigidly attached sensor with no damping pads on a thin plastic will transmit the vibration of the motor directly to the sensitive elements, which causes noise on the screen and can cause micro-cracks in the emitter body.
⚠️ Warning: Never drill holes in inflatable tubes unless absolutely necessary and without the use of special repair patches sealants.
Also worth mentioning is electrical safety. All wires must be securely secured and insulated. Accidental wire hitting the propeller can cause a cliff, short circuit, and even damage to the motor. Always leave a small margin of cable length at the screen to be maneuverable, but don't let it slosh.
Check the condition of the mounts regularly. Vibration and temperature changes can weaken the nuts. Before each season and preferably after each active fishing, visualize the installation sites. Timely detection of the backlash will save your sonar from falling into water or rocks.
⚠️ Note: When using PVC glue, strictly observe the temperature regime. Applying glue at temperatures below +15 C or above +35 C can cause the connection to not gain strength and unstick at the most inopportune moment.
These simple rules allow you to enjoy fishing with a reliable assistant at hand, and a properly installed sonar will open up new opportunities for finding fish and exploring the bottom of the sea, making each foray into the water more productive and interesting.
Can a sonar be fixed on a boat without drilling a transom?
Yes, there are special suction cups and brackets that are attached to the board or transom without drilling, but at high speeds or at high wave they can come off. For constant and reliable operation, it is better to use mechanical mounting through holes.
Which glue is best for PVC installation?
The best two-component polyurethane adhesives, specifically designed for PVC materials (such as those used in boats), are highly adhesive and remain elastic, and ordinary adhesives can become brittle in the cold.
Why does the sonar stop seeing the bottom at speed?
It's likely that air is being hit by the sensor (cavitation) or it's being set too high, and it could also be caused by a discharged battery, because at high speed, energy consumption increases, and at low voltage, the radiation power drops.
Do I need to take off the sensor for the winter?
The sensor itself can be left as long as it is securely secured and not subjected to mechanical shocks of ice. However, the head unit (screen) and the battery must be removed and stored in a warm dry room.