Operating an inflatable boat with an outboard motor of over 5 horsepower becomes a real test of physical strength if the hinged ramp has to be held by hand for hours. Wind, oncoming wave and water resistance put a tremendous strain on the steering wheel's hands, making fishing or cruising tedious. steering for PVC boat It is not just an element of comfort, but a prerequisite for a safe and long stay on the water.
Self-assembly of the remote control system (DU) saves a significant amount of money, as ready-made kits from well-known brands are expensive. Moreover, factory solutions are often versatile and require adjustment to the specific configuration of the cockpit or transcloth of your inflatable boat. By making a system yourself, you get the opportunity to perfectly adapt the length of the cables, the location of the tube and the mounting of the console to your anthropometric data.
In this article, we will take a look at all the steps in building a reliable control system, from the selection of components to the final setup, which materials are best suited for marine conditions, how to properly lay cables to avoid backlashes, and what mistakes beginners most often make when installing a well-assembled system will make controlling a boat easy and accurate, comparable to driving a car.
Principle of operation and selection of system components
The basis of any remote control system is the mechanical connection between turning the steering wheel and moving the engine's crank. cable-system Push-pull, where a wire rope in a rigid braid transmits force, and the key element here is the cable itself, which should have a high tensile strength and a minimum tensile coefficient.
The second important component is the steering wheel mechanism, which converts rotational motion into translational movement of the cable. There are gearbox and gearless models. For PVC boats with engines up to 30-40 hp, simple mechanical units are most often used, where one rotation of the steering wheel corresponds to a certain stroke of the cable. Systems with gearing provide a smoother course and the absence of backlashes, which is critical with accurate maneuvering.
The third element is the motor attachment, known as transom-holding It must hold the end of the cable firmly to the engine's tiller, but still allow the motor to lean freely upwards when hitting an obstacle (the clearance function), and the use of poor-quality materials for the bracket can lead to its destruction and loss of control.
⚠️ Warning: Never use steel cables without plastic or Teflon shell inside the braid. Direct contact of metal with metal in conditions of constant friction and salt water will lead to rapid jamming of the system and corrosion.
When choosing components, you should also pay attention to the diameter of the cable. The standard size for most amateur systems is 3/16 inches or 5 mmIncreasing the diameter adds stiffness, but requires a proper steering mechanism with great effort. For light inflatable boats, excessive rigidity is not necessary, but rather ease of travel and reliability of fixation.
Required tools and materials for assembly
Before starting the assembly, you need to prepare the workplace and the entire list of required materials. tool-base This will allow you to do the job carefully and avoid spoiling expensive components, and the main emphasis should be on tools for working with metal and plastic, since the system will be subjected to vibrational loads.
The list of necessary materials includes not only the main components, but also consumables for their fastening. Pay special attention to fasteners: all bolts and nuts must be made of stainless steel brand. AISI 316 Or, at the very least, AISI 304Ordinary ferrous metal will rust in one season, which can lead to a break in the mount at the most inopportune time.
- 🛠️ A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills for metal and wood (for drilling a transom timber).
- 📏 Roulette, bar and marker for accurate marking of holes.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches, pliers and cutters for working with the cable.
- 🔩 Stainless steel fasteners (bolts M6, M8, nuts with grovers, washers).
- 🧴 Sea sealant or silicone for insulation of drilling sites and contacts.
Additional elements, such as brackets or adapters, may require sheet aluminum at least 3-4 mm thick or textolite, which are water resistant and strong enough to be used, and the use of conventional plastic or thin plywood is unacceptable, as they will not withstand the forces that arise when turning the engine at full speed.
Prepare in advance, too. insulationAll the cable entry points and anchor points must be protected from moisture, water caps and shrink tubes will help extend the life of the system, and don't skimp on trifles, because water repair is often impossible.
When buying a cable, take a stock of 20-30 cm more than the design length, which will allow you to properly close the end and have a margin in case of an error during the first installation.
Manufacture of transom mounting for the motor
The most important part of the whole system is the attachment of the cable to the outboard tiller, and that's where all the effort to change the thrust vector is transmitted. The backbone is often a clamping clamps that cover the rumble, or a plate that is screwed to it. press-plate.
First, you need to measure the geometry of your motor's humming wheel. It's important to determine the mounting point so that the rope is as fast as possible. Getting too close to the rotation axis will require a long rope stroke, too far will create excessive force. The optimal distance from the axis of rotation of the rummel to the mounting point of the cable is between 100-150 mm.
The process of manufacturing the bracket is as follows:
- A rectangle approximately 60x40 mm in size is cut from the aluminum plate.
- In the center of the plate drilled hole under the bolt attachment to the tiller (usually M6 or M8).
- From the edge of the plate is made an eye or welded (screwed) sleeve to fix the tip of the cable.
- The surface of the part is grinded and covered with an anti-corrosion composition.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to link the rope to the tiller without the possibility of free running upwards. The design must allow the motor to recline back when run aground, otherwise the cable will be torn or broken the steering wheel mechanism.
To implement the recline function, you can use a hinge joint or an elastic insert, but the simplest solution is to use the fume It's a brace that unbuttons at a critical angle of deflection, but in practice, for low speeds, it's easy not to pull the rope into the string in a neutral position, leaving a small range.
Installation of the steering wheel and laying of cables in the cockpit
Installing an assault vehicle (control console) on a PVC boat requires careful planning. Unlike rigid hulls, you can't just drill a hole anywhere. squirt-board (Trans) or a special removable console that is fixed in the cockpit, and the use of a transom board is preferable, because it is rigid.
The cables should be laid along the sides of the boat, so as not to interfere with the movement of passengers and fishing equipment. The cables are fixed with plastic clamps or special clips to the liner cable or elements of the hard floor. It is important to avoid sharp bends of the cable: the radius of the bend should not be less than 20 cmOtherwise, the internal friction will increase sharply, and the control will become tight.
When installing, make sure that the cable braid does not rub the (sharp) corners of metal parts or boat accessories. In places of contact with aluminum profiles, it is recommended to wear additional Cambrians or use them. corrugatedThis will prevent the outer shell from being rubbed and water from getting inside.
☑️ Pre-launch checks
The length of the cables is calculated based on the dimensions of the boat. For a standard PVC boat with a length of 3.2-3.6 meters, a cable 3 meters is usually enough. If the boat is longer or the console is far ahead, lengthening may be necessary. Extended joints are extremely recommended, it is better to use a single piece. If build-up is necessary, use special couplings that ensure alignment.
System setting and elimination of backlashes
Once all the components are installed, the adjustment stage begins, and the main task is to ensure synchronization and smoothness of the course. luft In the system, it's the enemy of precision control, because of gaps in the connections or a weak stretch of the cable, and to eliminate the backlashes, you need to check all the threaded connections and install spring washers if necessary.
The adjustment is done in the following order: first the motor is placed in a neutral position (strictly in the center), then the steering wheel is also placed in the "straight" position. In this position, the cable tips are fixed in the mounting mechanisms. The tension must be such that the cable does not sag, but also does not create pre-stress.
| Problem. | Possible cause | Elimination |
|---|---|---|
| Tight steering | Small radius of cable bending | Increase the radius of the gasket, lubricate the cable |
| The engine's not on course. | Big backlash in the joints | Replace the sleeves, replace the worn-out sleeves |
| Screaming at the turn | Lack of lubrication, metal friction | Lubricate the nodes with Lithol or silicone |
| Moving jerks | Damage to the inner vein of the cable | Replacement of cable assembly |
For lubricating rubbing parts it is best to use lithium-grease Or special sprays for marine applications that are not washed away with water, regular maintenance (once a season) will prolong the life of the system, pay special attention to the mechanism of the steering wheel: it is desirable to periodically disassemble and clean from sand and dirt.
How do you lubricate the cable without removing it?
Remove the protective cap from the end of the cable braid at the helm. Sprinkle the WD-40 inside for flushing, then squeeze the thick lubricant with a syringe. Rotate the steering wheel several times to distribute the lubricant.
Testing and safety on the water
The first watering with the new steering system must be done in calm conditions, away from heavy shipping and dangerous areas, initial tests are conducted at low engine speeds, and your goal is to test how the boat responds to steering turns and make sure there are no jamming.
Notice how the motor behaves when you turn abruptly, if the motor starts to "scour" or the cable slips, it means that the system is not configured correctly, and also check the operation in reverse: when you move backwards, the force on the ramp can change, and the cable should not pop out of the guides.
Security Always carry a spare tool kit and, if possible, a spare cable or a way to temporarily fix the rummel (for example, a strong rope) so that you can reach the shore in case of a breakdown.
⚠️ Warning: After the first 30 minutes of work, make sure to stop and check for the tightening of all bolts. Vibration and load can weaken fresh connections. This is a critical step that cannot be ignored.
Keep an eye on the cable as you operate, and if you notice it's starting to fumble or rust, replace it immediately, and the water that gets inside the braid will quickly disable the cable, and the tightness is the key to your long-term service. steering.
Self-made steering saves up to 70% of the cost of a factory kit, but requires strict adherence to installation technology and regular maintenance to ensure safety.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use the gas pipeline cable (Bowden) to control the engine?
Technically, this is possible if the diameter and stroke of the cable are in line with the requirements of the steering wheel. However, gas cables often have a smaller stroke and a different design of the tips. Specialized control cables have a stiffer braid designed to work in pull-pull mode, while gas cables are mainly stretching. Using the wrong cable will lead to rapid wear.
What is the maximum angle of rotation of the engine provided by the standard system?
Standard PVC boat systems typically provide a steering angle of about 30-35 degrees each way from the center, enough for confident maneuvering, increasing the angle of rotation requires a longer cable stroke, and may require reworking the motor bracket to keep the cable from hitting the dead-wheel or the transom.
Do I need to remove the control system for the winter?
It is advisable to dismantle the assault machine and the cables for storage in a warm dry room. Frost and ultraviolet destroy the plastic and rubber seals of the cable braid. If dismantling is not possible, be sure to treat the metal parts with preservative lubrication and cover the steering wheel with a case.
Why is the steering wheel too easy and the boat not obeying?
This is a sign that the cable slips in the mounting clamps or the steering wheel mechanism has an internal defect (sliced teeth), also the reason may be too long the lever on the motor, which causes the effort is not enough to turn the screw in the water.