Completion of navigation or preparation for winter storage requires special attention to detail, because the life of the vessel depends on how competently you pack your boat. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)The silk that most modern boats are made of is a durable material, but it fears mishandling at low temperatures or in a compressed state. Many owners make the mistake of just rolling off a wet vessel, which inevitably leads to fungus and breaks the seams.
The preparation process for storage begins long before you pick up a pump or a packing bag, a set of measures designed to keep the material elastic and the valves tight. rowboat It has been in existence for decades, and you need to strictly follow the algorithm of actions for its conservation, and in this article we will discuss each stage to eliminate the risk of damage to expensive property.
Do not ignore even small nuances, such as air temperature or the cleanliness of the surface on which the assembly is made. Residual moisture in the folds of the fabric when stored for more than 3 months is guaranteed to lead to microbiological damage to the material. Proper installation of cylinders allows to minimize the amount of space occupied without creating a critical stress in the folding places.
Preparation and cleaning of the surface before packaging
The first and most important step is to thoroughly clean the case of all kinds of contaminants. Sand, silt, algae and fish mucus are abrasives and organics that, if exposed to PVC for long periods of time, can cause a chemical reaction or mechanical damage to the tissue structure. Use a soft sponge and warm water with the addition of a neutral detergent, avoiding aggressive chemistry that can dissolve the protective layer.
Special attention should be paid to the bottom, as this is where the greatest amount of dirt accumulates. After washing, you should thoroughly rinse the boat with clean water to remove the residue of soap solution. If there are fat spots from gasoline or oil on the surface, they should be carefully removed with a special PVC cleaner, without using metal brushes or scrapers.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use solvents based on acetone or chlorine for surface cleaning, as they make the material brittle and can disrupt the tightness of the seams.
After water treatments, it is important to let the body dry completely. Even a slight humidity inside the rolled-up cylinder will be the ideal medium for mold reproduction, which corrodes the fabric from the inside. It is better to dry in the shade, since direct sunlight can lead to overheating and deformation of the material if exposed for a long time.
Rules for drying and dismantling of equipment
Before deflation begins, all removable elements must be removed. Seats (banks), inflatable keel cylinders, stringers and fishing rod holders must be removed, washed and dried separately. Metal parts, such as motor mounts or transom wheels, are better lubricated with conservation lubrication to prevent oxidation in storage conditions.
The process of drying the hull itself takes time and space, and it is recommended to place the boat on a flat surface in a well-ventilated room or under a canopy, it is important to straighten all the folds and lift the cylinders so that the air circulates from all sides, including hard-to-reach areas near the valves and in the cockpit area.
If you keep a boat with an inflatable keel installed, it also needs to be taken out and dried separately. When assembled, the moisture between the keel and the bottom will evaporate for a very long time, which increases the risk of a musty smell. Make sure the valves are open during drying to ensure maximum ventilation of the internal cavities.
You can use soft rags to speed up the process, but you don't have to rub it with effort. You have to be patient, because rushing at this stage can negate all the effort to care for the craft. Only a fully dry vessel is ready for the next stage, which is deflation.
Technology of proper deflating of cylinders
Blowing is not just opening the valve, it's a process that requires a sequence of actions to preserve the geometry of the product, starting with the bow compartments, gradually moving to the stern, or vice versa, depending on the design of your model, the main rule is to release air slowly, without creating sudden pressure changes that could displace the internal partitions.
Use the pump in the pumping mode only in the final stage, when the main pressure has already been released. Complete vacuuming can lead to adhesion of the inner walls of the cylinders, which will make it difficult to pump later. Optimally leave the cylinders with minimal residual pressure so that the fabric does not collapse completely.
Use a special air collection bag or vacuum cleaner with low power blowing function to speed up the process of blowing large volumes of air without excessive physical exertion.
After deflating each cylinder, it is recommended to smooth it carefully with your hands, removing large clamps, this will help to avoid the formation of persistent folds that can eventually turn into cracks. If the boat has a hard bottom (HBB), it should be removed before the sides are completely blown away, so as not to damage the fabric on the edge of the sleigh.
It is important to keep the valves in position during deflation so that dust or insects don't get inside. Some models have protective caps that need to be twisted immediately after air is out, a simple precaution that will save time cleaning the valve group before the next season.
Algorithm of folding and packaging in a bag
Boat folding is an art of compactly placing a bulky piece of paper in a transport bag. There are several proven methods, but the most effective is the "envelope" or sequential twisting method, first folding the sides inwards to the central axis, then the boat folds from nose to stern or vice versa.
When you stack, keep the seams from falling on top of each other, creating double thickening at one point, which creates uneven stress on the material when stored. If the kit comes with special packaging fabric or plastic film, use them to lay between the layers of PVC, especially if the boat will be stored for a long time.
☑️ Checklist of correct packaging
When you put the boat in a bag, don't force it. If it doesn't come in, it means it's not folded properly or there are extra items left in the bag. zip up your zippers or tie your shoelaces carefully so that you don't pinch the fabric, which can cause the package to depressurize and get moisture.
For models with high pressure inflatable floor (HPD), the process is slightly different: first the sides are twisted, then the bottom itself is carefully turned. It is important not to overburden the hard bottom sleigh at an acute angle unless they are designed to do so, as this can lead to breakage of the internal bulkheads.
Requirements for storage conditions of PVC products
The choice of storage space is critical to the maintenance of the boat: the room should be dry, with good ventilation and stable temperature; the optimal option is a heated garage, storage room in the apartment or a special warehouse. The temperature should be in the range from -20 to +30 degrees Celsius, although for long-term storage, room temperature is preferable.
It is strongly recommended not to store inflatable boats near heating appliances, open flames or sources of ultraviolet radiation. High temperatures can lead to material stratification, and ultraviolet radiation destroys the chemical bonds in the structure of PVC, making it brittle.
| Parameter | Optimal value | Critical significance | Consequences of violation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature. | +5...+25 °C | Above +50°C | Deformation, stratification of sutures |
| Humidity | 40-60% | Above 80%. | Mold, fungus, corrosion of fittings |
| Light | Lack of direct sun | Direct UV rays | Fading, destruction of PVC structure |
| Neighborhood | Inert materials | Chemicals, FSM | Chemical corrosion of tissue |
If you keep the boat in an unheated room in winter, let it warm to room temperature before unpacking and pumping. A sharp temperature swing can cause condensation inside the material or make it too rigid for safe straightening.
Common Errors and How to Prevent Them
One of the most common mistakes is to pack a wet boat "on a one-time basis." Owners often think that nothing will happen in a couple of weeks, but the processes of rotting begin almost immediately. Even if you plan to use the boat in a week, it is better to let it dry than then fight the unpleasant west and sticky raid.
Another common mistake is using inappropriate valve lubricants. Some try to lubricate threads or seals with regular engine oil or Vaseline, which causes rubber seals to swell and lose leakiness. Use only the manufacturer's recommended silicone lubricants.
What to do if the boat is already mouldy?
If you find mold, you need to thoroughly wash the boat with water with soap, then treat the affected areas with a weak solution of vinegar or a special antifungal agent for PVC. After processing, the boat should be completely dried again before packaging.
You should also not neglect protection from rodents when stored in garages or sheds. Mice and rats often chew PVC, mistaking it for food or just sharpening their teeth. Decompose the poison or use ultrasonic repellents in the room where your property is stored.
⚠️ Warning: Never keep the boat assembled and pumped under load (for example, putting heavy objects on it) - this will lead to irreversible deformation of the seams and loss of shape.
Check the condition of the boat regularly during storage, especially if the room is unheated. Ventilation and visual inspection will help to notice problems in time. Proper care is the guarantee that at the beginning of the next season you will be waiting for a ready-to-fight boat, not a set of problems.
Compliance with the rules of drying and temperature regime during storage increases the service life of a PVC boat by 1.5-2 times, maintaining its tightness and appearance.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I keep an inflatable boat in the cold?
You can keep the boat at low temperatures because modern materials (PVC) can withstand frosts up to -40...-50 degrees. However, it is strictly forbidden to unpack, unwrap or try to pump the boat in the cold. The material becomes brittle as glass and can crack when bending. You need to apply the boat to heat 10-12 hours before use.
How often should I pump the boat during storage?
If you keep the boat assembled (inflated), which is not recommended for a long period, you need to check the pressure once every 1-2 months. However, for seasonal storage, it is better to completely blow the boat away. In the deflated state, pressure control is not required, it is enough to monitor the integrity of the package and the absence of rodents.
How to lubricate the valve before storage?
Silicone lubrication is best used to lubricate valves, it does not react with rubber and plastic, it does not wash off with water and maintains the elasticity of seals. Conventional petroleum products (oil, solidol) can destroy the structure of rubber gaskets.
What to do if after storage there was a smell of mold?
You have to wash the boat thoroughly with warm water, using special cleaning products for PVC or a weak soap solution, and then the boat needs to be completely dried. If the smell is left, you can treat the inner surface with a solution of vinegar, and then dry again. You can not store the wet boat.
Can I dry the boat with a hairdryer?
The use of a building dryer is strictly prohibited due to the high temperature that can melt the material. Household hair dryer can only be used in cold air mode and at a distance of at least 30-40 cm from the surface, but natural drying in the shade is still preferable and safer for the PVC structure.