Finishing a fishing trip or a water trip is the moment when the emotions of time on the water are gradually replaced by the routine but necessary work of assembling equipment. It is how competently and carefully you pack your boat that determines its durability and readiness for the next season. Many beginners underestimate the importance of proper drying and styling, believing that the main thing is just to flush the air and push the cylinders into the bag, but this approach often leads to deterioration of material, the appearance of microcracks and the unpleasant smell of dampness.
The process of folding a boat requires patience and a certain sequence of actions, which we will discuss in detail in this article. mold We've got a lot of experience with the fabric, the seam strain, even the valve depressurization at the worst possible time, and wet-engineers know that a few extra minutes of being put ashore during assembly will save you hours of repair and significant financial resources in the future.
In this guide, we will look not only at the basic algorithm of actions, but also at the subtleties of various models of inflatable vessels. We will discuss how weather conditions affect packaging, whether to use talc and why it is important to pay attention to the condition of valves before long-term storage. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) durable material, but it also requires careful treatment, especially when it comes to bending and storing it in a compressed state.
Preparation of the boat for packaging: drying and cleaning
The first and most critical step before the immediate folding is to thoroughly clean the shell from external contaminants. The dirt, silt, sand and fish mucus left on the surface of the cylinders and floor, when drying, turn into an abrasive, which, when the layers of material rubbing against each other, can damage the protective layer. PVCIt is recommended to rinse the boat with fresh water immediately after being removed from the reservoir, even if it appears clear visually, as salt deposits or river mud may not be noticeable.
After washing, there is a drying phase that is often ignored in the field, but is mandatory for long-term storage. The wet fabric inside the cocoa is the perfect medium for bacteria and fungi to multiply, which leads to a persistent smell of rot and destruction of the material structure. If you are fishing and you do not have the opportunity to dry fully in the sun, try to at least wipe the surface dry with absorbent rags and let the boat “ventilate” before packaging.
⚠️ Warning: Never pack a wet boat in a sealed bag for long-term storage (more than 2-3 days) and this is guaranteed to lead to mold formation, which is extremely difficult to remove from the fabric without the use of aggressive chemicals.
Special attention should be paid to the bottom if it is made of plywood or aluminum. Wooden flooring should be completely dry, otherwise moisture is preserved inside the cylinders, which will cause plywood swelling and corrosion of metal fasteners. Aluminum elements also require drying to avoid oxidation. Ideally, if time and weather permit, the decomposed boat should lie on the shore for 30-40 minutes under the influence of wind and sun.
Dismantling of removable components and preparation of valves
Before deflating cylinders, all removable components must be removed, including cans (seats), flooring, transpant racks and, if available, windscreens or awnings, removing these elements not only frees up space inside the cocoa, but also prevents damage to the inner surface of cylinders by sharp angles or fittings during the folding process.
The cans and flooring elements should be folded separately, having previously wiped them from moisture. NDMAIt also needs to be completely deflated, and the key is not to put too much pressure on the adjacent compartments when you're working on one of them.
The key is to work with inflatable valves. Before you start releasing air, make sure that the valve petals are open. Complete air removal often requires light pressure on the cylinder in the valve area to drive out the residue of gas. After deflating, it is recommended to blow the valve or wipe it with a dry wipe to prevent moisture from entering the chamber.
Lubricate the valve thread with silicone lubrication before long-term storage to prevent them from "feeling" and ensure easy opening the next time.
When dismantling the squirrel board, be careful with metal hinges and fasteners. Their sharp edges can easily pierce a deflated but not yet packed cylinder if you carelessly throw the board inside the cocota. It is best to fold all the rigid elements into a separate case or carefully place them on top of already rolled cylinders before the final packaging.
Blowing technique and primary folding
The process of deflating the boat requires care so as not to damage the valve system and drive dust inside. You should not use powerful compressors to pump air, as they can deform the valve or suck in small debris. The best way is to use a mechanical pump in blowout mode (if the design allows) or simply gently extrude air with your hands and feet, controlling the process.
Once the cylinders are blown away, the boat must be rolled into a tourniquet, and the sides are folded towards the center, forming a long cylinder. At this stage, it is important to ensure that foreign objects such as branches, stones or tools do not get inside. If you use a boat with an inflatable keel, make sure that it is straightened and lies flat, without creating unnecessary folds that can become places of crevices.
| Element of the boat | Action before packaging | Risks of ignoring |
|---|---|---|
| inflatable tubes | Lower pressure to 0.1 atm, fold to the center | Deformation of the seams, bloating in the sun |
| Valves. | Open, wipe, leave in the open position | Condensation, mold, souring of the mechanism |
| Flooring (plywood) | Dry, wipe, stack. | Swelling, rotting, bottom damage |
| transom board | Remove, remove metal loops inside | Puncture of the cylinder, metal corrosion |
And folding into a tourniquet is only half the story, and then you roll that tourniquet up into a roll, starting at the bow and moving towards the transom, and you have to squeeze the air out of the forming roll, and some boat models have straps or Velcro straps to fix the folded state, which makes it much easier to put it into cocota.
☑️ Checklist before rolling off
Cocota Stacking: Algorithm of Actions
The final stage is to lay the rolled-up boat in a transport bag, or cocota, which requires some skill, because the volume of the deflated boat can be close to the maximum capacity of the bag. First, the cans and the transomboard are usually placed in the cocota, forming a kind of "bottom" or rigid base that will hold the shape.
Then a rolled-up cylinder roll is placed neatly in the bag, and if the boat is fitted with an inflatable floor, it is placed last or in a separate pocket, if the design of the bag permits. It is important to distribute the mass evenly so that the straps do not crash into the shoulders, and the bag itself does not sway. zip the zipper should be carefully zipped so as not to grab the fabric of the balloon, which can cause damage.
If the boat doesn't fit in the bag the first time, don't use excessive force. It's better to straighten the roll again, let out some more air and try to roll tighter. Excessive pressure on the seams when packed can cause them to dissect when temperatures drop during storage.
⚠️ Attention: You can't zip the zipper on the cocot by force, and if it doesn't close, it means the boat is not stowed properly or there are some extra items left in the bag, and if you force it, it will break the runner or tear the fabric of the bag.
The cocoa should also be fitted with paddles, pumps and remixes, often with special pockets or compartments on the sides of the bag, heavy items (pump, battery) should be placed down to the back for ease of transportation, and light and bulky items on top.
Seasonal storage and conservation
If you're preparing a boat for winter storage, the requirements for its preparation become even stricter. In addition to thorough drying and cleaning, it is recommended to treat PVC fabric with special protective compounds that prevent the material from drying out and microcracking. Keep the boat in a dry, cool room, away from heating appliances and direct sunlight.
The optimal storage temperature is from +5 to +20 degrees Celsius. Sharp temperature changes and high humidity can adversely affect adhesive seams. It is not recommended to keep the boat in a rolled-up state under heavy loads, as this creates a static load on the material, which can lead to irreversible deformations in a few months.
Can I keep the boat in the cold?
Storage at negative temperatures is allowed, but the PVC material becomes brittle, and the boat must be kept at room temperature for at least 24 hours before inflating.
Periodically, every 2-3 months, it is recommended to check the condition of the boat even in a preserved form, you can slightly gyrolyvat the package or check the pressure in the cylinders if the boat is stored in a semi-inflated state (although PVC prefers storage in a deflated form), this will help to notice possible problems, such as the appearance of rodents or leaks.
Common mistakes in the packaging of boats
One of the most common mistakes is to try to pack the boat by eye, without respecting the geometry of the folding, which leads to the fact that in some places the fabric lies in one layer, and in others it forms thick, rigid clumps, such "clumps" create stress points that, when transported or stored, can burst or wipe.
Another mistake is ignoring the valves: Forgotten valves when the air cools down (for example, in the evening after a hot day) creates a vacuum, and the boat itself sucks in moist air through the looseness, which leads to condensation. Always leave the valves open when packing.
Some users try to stuff wet things into the cocoa, believing that the bag is sealed and nothing leaks, but the inside of the bag creates a greenhouse effect, and during the night things not only do not dry out, but also become covered with mold, which then spreads to the boat. The only way to safely pack a slightly damp boat is to use a breathable mesh bag to transport you to your home where full drying is possible.
The main secret to the longevity of the boat is absolute dryness and cleanness before packaging. No protective sprays will save the material preserved with dirt and water.
Also worth mentioning is the mistake of using aggressive chemicals for cleaning: gasoline, acetone or strong solvents can damage the protective layer of PVC, making it sticky or brittle. Use only specialized means or soap solution to clean.
Questions and Answers (FAQ)
Can I fold the boat if it's a little wet to get home?
Yes, but only for short-term transport, the boat must be fully unpacked, decomposed and dried immediately upon arrival, and it is strongly discouraged to leave the wet boat in a rolled-up state for more than a few hours.
How often should the boat be repackaged for long-term storage?
It's recommended that you change the folding lines every 2-3 months, which means that you take the boat out, you spread it slightly, you roll it around so that the folds don't fall in the same places, and that prevents the material from forming permanent clamps.
What to do if the lightning on the cocot is stuck?
Try to treat the lock with silicone lubricant or graphite. If the cloth is stuck, carefully release it with a thin object (for example, a nail file), slightly pulling the cloth in the opposite direction from the movement of lightning.
Do I need to lubricate the boat before storage?
Yes, the use of special PVC air conditioners (for example, silicone-based) before winter storage prolongs the life of the material, maintaining its elasticity and protecting it from ultraviolet light and drying.
Can I keep a boat in the garage at sub-zero temperature?
PVC materials can withstand low temperatures but become brittle. You can store them, but you can only inflate or actively move them after they have warmed up to room temperature for a day.