Preparing a boat properly for winter storage or transportation is not just a matter of convenience, but a critical step in determining the longevity of your property. Many owners underestimate the importance of proper packaging, believing that it is enough to just let the air out and throw the bag into the garage. polyvinyl chloride (PVC), from which the cylinders are made, requires special care, especially before a long period of rest.
Improperly folded material can "remember" unnatural clogs, and moisture residues are guaranteed to lead to mold and the destruction of glue seams. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to fold an inflatable boat so that in the spring it was ready to be launched without additional repairs. Safety techniques Cleanliness is your main ally in this process.
There is a common misconception that the less space a packed boat takes up, the better. In fact, excessive compression and twisting can damage the internal structure of the tissue. We'll look at optimal action algorithms that allow you to maintain compactness without compromising the integrity of the product.
Preparation of the boat for packaging: cleaning and drying
Before you start deflation, you need to do a thorough surface inspection, mud, sand, fish mucus and algae are abrasives and organics, which, when exposed to PVC for a long time, start a chemical reaction. Pollution They can eat into the structure of the material, making it porous and vulnerable. Use a soft sponge and warm water, if necessary, adding a specialized detergent for rubber products.
⚠️ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, solvents, gasoline or acetone to clean the boat, which destroy plasticizers in PVC, making the fabric brittle and dull.
Pay special attention to the bottom. This is where the most sand accumulates, which, when folded, will act as sandpaper, rubbing the bottom layer of cylinders. fully dryEven the minimum amount of moisture inside the package will lead to a fungus that is almost impossible to get rid of.
Drying the boat is best in the shade by spreading the cylinders. Direct sunlight can cause uneven air expansion and material overheating, which is undesirable before packaging. Make sure that not only the outer surfaces, but also the inner cavities of the valves are dry.
The drying process can take anywhere from hours to days depending on the humidity of the air. Don't rush to pack a wet product hoping it will "come" in a bag. This is a fatal mistake that shortens the life of the boat by many times.
Dismantling of attachments and transom
The next step is to remove all removable elements: Track, seats (banks), rod holders and anchor rings must be removed. Tracks made of plywood or aluminum, when blown out of cylinders can push the fabric or shift, causing mechanical damage. transom board It is always stored separately or placed on top of already folded cylinders, but never inserted between them.
If your model is installed stationary, such as arrows or stringers, make sure they do not interfere with even deflation. Remove all belts, carbines and safety ropes if the design allows them to be unfastened. Metal parts during storage can oxidize and rust, leaving traces on the light PVC fabric.
The cans (seats) also need to be washed and dried. If they are soft, wipe them with dry rags. Hard plywood elements are better wrapped in a breathable cloth or folded in a separate case so that sharp corners do not damage the cylinders during transportation.
- 🛶 Remove the transom and put it aside for a separate package.
- 🪑 Remove all removable cans and seats from the cockpit.
- 🔩 Undo the additional accessories: holders, sonars, anchor anchors.
- 🧹 Wipe the places of fastenings from sand and salt deposits.
The correct procedure for deflating cylinders
Many people make the mistake of starting to blow the boat out randomly, opening all the valves at once. The correct algorithm of actions avoids the formation of pockets of air that interfere with dense stacking. Start with the bow compartment, then move to the aft compartment, and only at the end work with the central balon or keel.
Use the pump in reverse mode (if there is a blow function) or simply press the valve, gradually straightening the fabric. residual pressureBut you don't have to try to squeeze out all the air by flattening the cylinders to a vacuum, and that creates tension on the seams.
If your boat is equipped keel (HPD), it's the last thing to blow off after the main cylinders have lost shape, so you can straighten the bottom and remove the large folds, and it's better to close the high pressure valves with caps immediately after deflation, so that dust doesn't get inside.
Do I need to lubricate the valves before storage?
Silicone valve lubrication is a good maintenance tone, but it's not a requirement. If the valve is good and doesn't etching, just clear the sand. You might need lubrication if you notice the valve opening tightly or you're starting to heat the air. Use only specialized PVC lubricants.
Folding technique: harmonica method
There are several ways to stack, but the most effective and safest method for fabric is the "accordance" method, which avoids sharp cracks and evenly distributes the volume. First spread the deflated boat on a flat surface. Wrap the side of the cylinders inwards, towards the center, forming a rectangle.
Then start folding the boat across, moving from nose to stern (or vice versa). Each bend should be about 25-30 centimeters wide. Don't try to make the folds too narrow - this will create a critical stress in the material on the bend. PVC elasticity high, but constant inflections in the same place lead to microcracks.
Pay special attention to the bottom. float-bottomTry to keep the folds of the cylinders from matching the folds of the bottom. Multidirectional clamps increase the total volume, but maintain the integrity of the structure. The flat plywood bottom (plywood or aluminum) is laid with the last layer on top.
| Type of boat | Feature of folding | Risks of error |
|---|---|---|
| inflatable floor (NDB) | Stack carefully, avoiding sharp keel cracks | Thringer damage, uneven deflation |
| With a floorboard bottom | First the balloons, then the floorboard sheets on top. | Puncture of the balloon at the edge of the paiola when shaking |
| Rowing (double-balloon) | Stack across, trawl in | Rooms in the transcosm area |
☑️ Checklist before packaging
Packaging of floorboard and transcoat board
Rigid designs require a separate approach. Paiola sheets (floor sections) have sharp edges, which are the main enemy of packaged cylinders. Before laying, wipe each sheet with a dry cloth. If there are scratches or burrs on aluminum, they must be ground or taped.
Stack the paioles in the order they come together, and they usually have a numbering system or a groove system that dictates the sequence. transom board fits on the top of the pile of paiola or in a separate pocket of the bag, if the design of the bag provides for it.
The ideal option is to use separate floorboard and transom covers, if they are not available, you can use a dense fabric or old sheets, the main thing is to exclude direct contact of metal or untreated wood from the surface of the surface. cylinder-surfaceVibration during transportation can cause even a smooth sheet to wipe a hole in PVC.
⚠️ Warning: Never keep the floorboard inserted between the sides of a deflated boat. When the temperature or pressure changes, the air residue can expand, and the hard floorboard will tear the fabric from the inside.
Final stowage in the bag and storage conditions
When the boat is folded into an accordion, fold it neatly into a roll or fold it in half to fit in the bag. Don't use force to push it. If the boat doesn't come in, it's not folded properly or there's too much air left in it. Packing bag It should be fastened easily, without strong tension of lightning.
Place the rolled-up boat, floorboard and transom in the bag. Spread the weight evenly. Small accessories (pump, remix, paddles) are better placed on top or in side pockets so that they do not press on the cylinders point by point. zip up the zipper and check if there are external damage to the bag itself.
Choose a dry, dark place with temperatures ranging from +5 to +25 degrees to avoid proximity to heating appliances and direct sunlight. Ultraviolet And temperature changes are the main enemies of PVC storage, and once a season (even in preserved form) it is recommended to check the condition of the product.
The main secret of long service boats - storage in the spread or semi-assembled form, but if this is not possible, proper drying and the absence of sharp rims is more important than compact packaging.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I keep an inflatable boat assembled but deflated?
Yes, it's even preferable if you have space, and keeping it straightened (not in the bag) eliminates the need to fold and unpack the boat all the time, reducing the wear and tear of the cloth on the folds, and protecting it from dust and light.
What to do if the boat wintered in the cold?
PVC becomes brittle at low temperatures, and if the boat freezes, you can't bend it, twist it, or try to inflate it, put it in a warm room, let it warm up to room temperature for 12 to 24 hours, and then you can start manipulating it.
How often should the boat be repackaged for long-term storage?
It's recommended that you change the folding lines every 2-3 months, so if the boat was folded one way, then fold it differently the next time you check it, and that prevents the buildup of permanent curtains and memory.
Do I need to lubricate the boat before storage?
There are special PVC preservative sprays that create a protective film, which is desirable if storage is planned in imperfect conditions (garage, shed), and conventional silicone lubricants are best avoided on large surfaces, as they can collect dust.
When packing a boat in a bag, put a small bag of silica gel (moisture absorber) inside, which will help absorb residual moisture and prevent the appearance of musty odor during storage.