How to properly remove the valve on the PVC boat

Every inflatable boat owner is faced with the need to maintain their vessel sooner or later, and the most common problem is the loss of tightness in the area. balloonThe ability to quickly and competently dismantle this element can save your fishing or cruising, and also prolong the life of the entire product.

Removal of the valve by PVC Not only does it require a specialized tool, but it also requires an understanding of the design of the knot itself. Mistakes can cause tissue damage, seams to depressurize or break threads, which will require professional intervention in the workshop. In this article, we will examine all the steps of the work, from preparation to finishing.

There are many types of valves used by different manufacturers, such as: Nord., Bravo. or CorsardDespite the differences in appearance, the principle of attachment and dismantling often remains similar, based on the threaded joint and the down nut, and knowing these nuances will allow you to confidently take up repairs in the field or in the garage.

Valve types and their design features

Before you start active action, you need to clearly identify the type of valve installed on your boat, which determines the choice of tool and method of dismantling. The vast majority of modern boats use threaded lobe valves, which consist of the outer and inner parts.

The outer part usually has a corrugated surface for easy grip with the hands or key, and also the inner thread, which is visible when the boat is inflated. The inner part is a response thread with a wide pressing pad that contacts the fabric of the balloon from the inside. Between these two parts, the layer is clamped. PVC.

Some models may have additional fixation elements, such as locking rings or special slots under keys of a certain shape. Latex gasketsThese are often found inside the mechanism, but they are not the main element of the cylinder attachment, and understanding the structure of the assembly helps to avoid gross errors.

What is the difference between old and new model valves?

Older models often had a more complex perimeter screw system, whereas modern solutions tend to be minimalist and use a single large diameter central thread for uniform pressing.

Necessary tool and workplace preparation

You can't have a good repair without the right tools, and you don't need a set of wrenches to remove the valve, you need specialized tools that don't damage the plastic parts, and you can't have a pliers that you can use because they can easily chop up fragile plastic.

First of all, get a special key for the valves, which often comes with a boat or repair kit. If there is no regular key, it can be made independently from textolite or dense plastic, cutting out a profile that exactly repeats the protrusions on the valve.

You'll also need:

• 🔧 Special key or its homemade analogue of durable plastic
• 🧴 Silicone lubricant or soap solution for cleaning threads
• 🧹 Soft bristles brush to remove sand and dirt
• 🔦 Lantern for inspection of the inside of the cylinder

The workplace should be clean, dry and well-lit. Any grains of sand or small stones caught between the valve thread and the fabric may cause future leakiness. Prepare all tools in advance so that you don't get distracted in the process.

Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the valve

The process of removing the valve begins with a complete etching of air from the cylinder. Pressure. inside the chamber creates a strain in the tissues, which can make it difficult to unscrew or lead to a sharp cotton when the thread breaks.

Put the key in the slots of the outside of the valve. The movement should be directed counterclockwise. If the valve does not respond, do not use excessive effort immediately - try to swing the key from side to side to disrupt the possible acidic A sharp jerking force can break plastic teeth.

Once the outer part is unscrewed, it's removed. Now your task is to get to the inside, and you need to gently stick your hand inside the cylinder through a valve hole or a process cut, if the design of the boat allows it, and feel the inner nut and, holding it, finally twist the outer part, if it's not already removed, or just remove the inner part outside.

It's important to keep track of the position of the tissue around the hole, and when you twist the inside, it should not get jammed or twisted, and if you feel resistance, stop and correct the position of the tissue with your fingers from inside the balloon. It is critically important to prevent the tissue from getting between the turns of the thread during reverse twisting.

Typical problems in removal and methods of their solution

Boat owners often face situations where the valve simply does not want to unscrew, which can be caused by prolonged unmaintenance, salt water or sand, in which case the standard key effort is not enough and a more delicate approach is required.

One of the common problems is licking the edges on plastic, and this happens when you use inappropriate tools, like metal screwdrivers or passages, and if the edges are slithered, you use a thin drill or a hot needle to make new hooks carefully, but you need to be very careful not to damage the valve itself.

Let’s look at the main reasons for the difficulties in the table:

Problem.	Probable cause	Decision-making
The valve doesn't turn.	Sandcarving pollution	Alcohol washing, neat loosening
The slime-faces of the key	Use of a metal tool	Making a new key from textolite
Fabric interferes with extraction	Closure during installation	Careful spreading of fingers from the inside
Cracks on the hull	Mechanical impact or aging of plastic	Complete replacement of the valve with a new one

If you find cracks in the valve body itself, you can't use it again, and the plastic loses its elasticity over time, because of ultraviolet light and temperature changes, and then the only solution is to replace the valve completely.

Maintenance and replacement of sealants

Once the valve is successfully dismantled, it is a great opportunity to perform its full maintenance, and often the cause of etching is not the thread itself, but worn or polluted. sealerInside the valve system, rubber or silicone rings, springs and petals may be present.

Wash all the parts thoroughly in warm water with a mild detergent. Remove all the plaque, sand and mucus. Pay special attention to the petals that are responsible for retaining air. They should be clean, elastic and fit tightly to the saddle. If the petals show cracks or cracks, they should be replaced.

⚠️ Warning: Never use aggressive solvents, acetone or gasoline to clean the inner parts of the valve, which can break the structure of rubber seals and make plastic brittle.

When assembled, it is recommended to lubricate the thread with silicone lubricant. This will not only facilitate_future_ unscrewing, but also improve the tightness of the joint. The lubricant fills microscopic irregularities and prevents corrosion (if there are metal elements) and oxidation of plastic.

Pressure check

Once the valve has been removed, cleaned and re-mounted, you have to make sure that the work is done correctly, and just inflate the boat and wait is not the most reliable method, especially if you're far from the reservoir. There are several ways to quickly diagnose.

The first and easiest way is to use a soap solution, and you can apply a lot of foam to and around the valve, and you can watch the surface very carefully, and even small bubbles can indicate that there's a leak, and then you can blow the air again, and you can check the puff or the condition of the seals.

You can also use the (auditory) method in a quiet room, blow into the valve, create an excess pressure, and listen. A characteristic whistle will indicate the place of etching. However, the soap method is more informative and allows you to see the exact location of the defect.

• 🫧 Apply soap foam to the valve and wait 2-3 minutes
• 👂 Listen to the characteristic sound of the outgoing air.
• 👐 Check the reliability of the hand fixation (the valve should not stagger)

If the test is successful and the bubbles don't appear, you can consider the work completed, your boat is ready for operation again, and you have acquired a useful skill that will be useful in the future, regular inspection of the locking valves is the key to safe navigation.

What if the soap solution shows a leak?

Tighten the valve with a key, and if that doesn't work, maybe the thread or the seal is damaged, then you'll need to replace the parts.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I remove the valve without a special key?

In theory, you can use improvised tools, like a coin of the right diameter or pliers with soft sponges, but the risk of damage to the plastic faces is very high. It is better to make a temporary key from a piece of plywood or plastic that repeats the shape of the grooves.

How often should I change the valve on the PVC boat?

When operated carefully and regularly, valves last for years, often outliving the boat itself, and replacement is required only when the valve body is mechanically damaged or the thread wears off, not after a certain period of time.

Why does the new valve poison after installation?

The most likely causes are insufficient puffing, dirt or villi of fabric getting under the seal, or damage to the sealing ring itself during installation.

How do you lubricate the valve thread?

Silicone lubricant in spray or gel is ideal, it is inert to PVC and rubber, it is not washed away with water and it retains elasticity, and it is not recommended to use petroleum petroleum or litol, as they can corrode some types of rubber.