Polyvinyl chloride inflatable boats have long since ceased to be just a means of crossing a river, becoming full-fledged boats for serious fishing. It is critical to successfully catch a predator or peaceful fish at depths to understand the bottom relief and structure of the reservoir, which is impossible without quality sonar. However, mounting electronics on a soft side or transom requires a different approach from installing on a rigid hull.
Unlike metal or fiberglass vessels, where sensors are often slammed into the hull, the owners of the boat are not. PVC Failure to install can not only lead to the loss of expensive equipment, but also damage to cylinders when faced with obstacles. In this article, we will discuss in detail all the nuances, from the choice of location to the final calibration of the device.
Choosing the optimal location for the sensor installation
The first and most important step is to determine where the water flow will be most laminar. On PVC boats, the main anchorage is a transom, because it is highly recommended not to drill soft sides for the installation of sensors-passers without special skills and reinforcement of the design. The sensor must be in the water constantly while driving, but not create undue resistance.
If you are planning to use a boat with electric-motorThe ideal solution is to put the sensor on a special rod that attaches to the engine's daydude, avoiding unnecessary holes in the transom and removing the sensor from the screw. For gasoline engines with external suspension, the sensor is usually mounted on the bracket next to the deadwater, strictly observing symmetry or shifting away from the jet from the screw.
- 📍 The sensor must be submerged in water to a depth of at least 30-40 cm from the bottom for stable operation at speeds above 10 km / h.
- 🌊 Avoid aeration zones where the motor screw creates air bubbles, as they completely block the ultrasonic signal.
- ⚓ Consider the possibility of removing the sensor when pulling the boat on a gentle shore, so as not to damage the emitter against stones or sand.
It's important to understand that the location of the sensor affects the depth readings, and if you set it too high, you get a cavitation effect on the speed, and the device starts to show random numbers or loses the bottom, and if you lower it too low, you increase the risk of damage if you hit a snag. The middle ground It is selected experimentally for each specific model of the boat and motor.
Types of anchorages for inflatable vessels
The market offers several sonar fixation options, and the choice depends on your boat's design and frequency of use. transducer The most common plastic brackets are spring-loaded brackets, which allow the sensor to be thrown upward when hitting an obstacle, which saves both the device and the transom of the boat from serious damage.
There are also specialty anchorages designed specifically for inflatable vessels that are fixed to a cylinder or stringer. velcro Or clamps, which allows you to quickly dismantle the equipment after fishing, but it is worth remembering that any mount on the cylinder must have a perfectly smooth surface in contact with PVC, so as not to rub the material when rubbed against water.
⚠️ Warning: Never use homemade mounts with sharp corners or metal elements that may come into contact with the sides of the boat. PVC under pressure of water can lead to depressurization of the balloon.
When choosing a bracket, consider the material: Plastic is less durable but safer for a boat to strike; stainless steel is stronger but requires careful handling of the edges; For most fishermen, a universal transceiver holder is the optimal solution, which can be quickly moved from one boat to another.
Use insulation or thermal shrinkage on all metal parts of the mount that can theoretically touch the side of the boat in strong roll or wind.
Required tools and materials
Before you start installing, you need to prepare the workplace and the toolkit. A good installation requires not only accuracy, but also the right materials for sealing, because water and sun are the main enemies of electronics. You should not save on consumables, because repairing wiring on water is a thankless task.
You'll need basic locksmith tools and specific chemicals to work with, and you'll need to pay special attention to the sealant you're looking for: ordinary silicone from a construction store can't withstand UV light and crack over time. sealant based on polyurethane or MS polymers.
☑️ Preparation for installation
If your boat has a hard transom (plywood or aluminum), drilling holes is permissible, but requires careful sealing. In the case of soft transmolence (inflatable balloon), drilling is strictly prohibited, and all attachments are carried out only by external clamps or glue methods that do not violate the integrity of the chamber.
| Materials | Appointment | Features of application |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane sealant | Sealing of openings and inlets | High elasticity, resistance to UV |
| A4 stainless steel | Fastening elements (bolts, washers) | It doesn't rust in salt water. |
| Glue-filled shrinkage | Wire roll protection | Hermetic compound, protection against oxidation |
| Acrylic ribbon | Temporary anchorage fixation | Strong adhesion to PVC, removed without traces |
Step-by-step instructions for installation on a transom
The installation process begins with the mounting position marking on the outside of the transom. If the transom is rigid, drill a hole with a diameter corresponding to the bracket mount bolt. For a soft transom, use clamping mechanisms that cover the upper edge without requiring any violation of the material integrity.
Strip the cable from the sensor to the head unit. The cable should have a margin of length for maneuvers, but not hang loosely so as not to catch the tackle or legs. The wiring is best laid along the side, fixing it with special clips or gently gluing PVC strips.
Sequence of action:Mark the anchorage centre on the transom.
2. Install the bracket using pads for tight fit.
3. pass the cable through the hole (if any) or throw over the side.
4. Connect the wires to the head unit according to the color marking.
5. seal all connections and places of cable input.
When connecting wires, observe the polarity indicated in the instructions for sonarUsually red wire is a plus, black wire is a minus. Make sure to seep the wires and insulate them with adhesive shrinkage, because the regular tape will eventually unstuck from the moisture.
Nuances of working with soft transcen
If you have a boat with an inflatable transmessel, use lightweight plastic brackets. Heavy metal can deform the balloon on the wave, creating a permanent skew of the sensor and distorting the depth readings. In such cases, it is better to consider the option of mounting on a removable platform that is placed on the bottom of the boat and pressed by the weight of the fisherman or cargo.
Setting and calibration of the sounder on water
After the physical installation, you need to do the initial setup on the water, and the static position at the berth will not give you a complete picture, because it is important to evaluate the sensor's performance in motion and at different speeds of the engine.
The first parameter that requires adjustment is sensitivity: too high sensitivity will cause noise and false fish, and too low will not show small fish or bottom structure. Start with automatic mode, and then manually adjust the value so that the bottom is displayed in a clear red or orange stripe.
- 🎛️ Set the depth range (Range) in automatic mode to begin with, so that the device itself adjusts to the changes in the terrain.
- 🚤 Check the work at different speeds: from idling to maximum revolutions, watching for the disappearance of the signal.
- 🐟 Enable zoom mode to consider the (details) of the bottom layer and the structure of the bottom.
If the signal is lost at speed, try lowering the sensor slightly or changing the angle of its inclination. The sensor should be parallel to the surface of the water (horizontally) when the boat is in motion with normal loading. Often the boat's nose is up and the angle of the sensor changes, so it is better to adjust with a full crew on board.
⚠️ Warning: When testing at speed, always keep your hand on the tiller or steering wheel, ready to deflate. If the sensor hits a floating log or a submerged obstacle loaf at high speed, the consequences can be fatal to the emitter.
Equipment care and winter storage
Operating electronics in an aggressive aquatic environment requires regular maintenance. After every fishing, especially in salt water, the sensor and mounts must be washed with fresh water. The salt is shrivelled in the mechanisms of the rotary bracket, which can lead to it jamming or corrosion of metal parts.
The equipment must be removed in the winter. PVC Boats Often stored in deflated form or in heat, but the sonar sensors are better kept at room temperature in disassembled form. The cables can not be twisted into tight rings - this can damage the internal structure of the conductor and disrupt the signal transmission.
Before the new season, make a visual inspection of the cable for cracks and scuffs. Even microscopic damage to the insulation can short-circuit and cause the head unit to fail. Grease the movable parts of the bracket with silicone grease that does not break down the plastic and rubber.
Proper preservation for the winter extends the life of the sonar by 2-3 times, maintaining the accuracy of measurements and tightness of the sensor body.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I glue the sensor directly to the cylinder of the PVC boat?
It is not recommended to glue the sensor directly onto the inflatable cylinder. The elasticity of PVC as the temperature and air pressure changes will constantly change the position of the sensor, which will lead to an unstable signal. In addition, the glue can damage the protective layer of tissue. It is better to use removable attachments on Velcro or clamps.
Why does the sonar show "porridge" instead of the bottom at speed?
This is called cavitation, and the air bubbles that come from the screw or the transom bumps hit the emitter and they scatter the signal, so the solution is to lower the sensor deeper, move it further away from the propeller jet, or put the sensor on a separate bracket on the side, in the clear water flow zone.
Do I need to lubricate the entry point of the cable into the sensor case?
Factory sealing is usually reliable, but over time the oil oil can dry out. Once a season, it is useful to treat the cable entry point with special silicone lubricant for rubber seals to keep them elastic and prevent moisture from entering.
Does the thickness of the transom affect the sounder?
Yes, it's indirectly. If the transom is too thick and the bracket is short, the sensor may be too close to the bottom, getting into the turbulence zone, in which case you need to use an extension bar or a large-outlet bracket to pull the emitter into the clean stream.