Operation of inflatable watercraft is impossible without reliable fixation on the water, whether it is fishing on the current or resting in a pin. Anchoring the PVC boat It's not just about tying a rope to the nose, it's a complicated process that requires the right seating and reinforcement, and mistakes at this point can cause balloon damage or, worse, the loss of a boat in a gust of wind.
Unlike metal vessels, where welding the pome is not difficult, with PVC materials You have to work delicately, using special adhesives and fittings. anchorage allows you to quickly pit and choose the shed, without getting tangled in gear and maintaining the balance of the boat.
In this article, we will discuss all the nuances, from the choice of the type of anchor to the final sealing of the seams, you will learn why you can not attach the anchor strictly in the center of the nose and how to distribute the load on the transom and the board for maximum safety.
Choosing the Right Anchor for an Inflatable Boat
Before you start installing the mounts, you need to decide on the type of shipper. For inflatable boats, weight is critical, because each extra kilogram reduces the payload and increases the risk of puncture of the balloon to the bottom. cat anchor folding structure, which is compactly retracted into a funduk and does not take up much space.
There is a common misconception that the heavier the anchor, the more secure it holds. In practice, a boat up to 3.5 meters long is enough weight of 4-5 kg, if the type of paws is correctly selected. Heavy cast iron castings can simply fall into soft silt, whereas cat-legs or anchor They provide better grip on the ground.
- 🌊 Folding cat - a versatile option for sandy and rocky bottom, easy to clean.
- ⚓ Danforth's anchor is a great holding force on soft ground, but can get stuck in snags.
- 🪨 Mushroom anchor – ideal for a muddy bottom, but requires considerable weight for efficiency.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp-faced anchors without protective linings near cylinders. PVC fabric Even without direct contact, just through vibration and friction.
Definition of installation site and attachment scheme
The most common mistake of beginners is to place a bolt strictly in the nose end along a diametrical plane, and in high winds or currents, the boat will stand nose to wave, which can be critical for PVC vessels with their high sailing and soft bottom. anchorage involves the displacement of the mounting point in the side or the use of two points for stabilization.
If you plan to fish alone, it's more rational to shift the anchor 15 to 20 cm sideways from the center, allowing the boat to lag towards the wind, creating a more stable position for throwing tackles. Large boats often use a scheme with two anchors, one on the nose, the second on the stern, which allows you to rigidly lock the vessel in the desired position.
It is important to consider the location stringer The fastener must rest on the hard surface of the transom panel or reinforced part of the cylinder, but not press on the joints of materials. The force application point must be calculated so that the tension vector of the anchor rope passes as low as possible, closer to the waterline.
Required tools and materials
The quality of the installation depends on the materials used. Cheap solvent-based adhesives can dry out over time, and poor fittings can rust after the first season. PVC materials.
You also need to prepare a degreasing agent (acetone or special solvent), a roller for rolling seams, a construction dryer for activating the glue and a marking tool. Don't forget about a sealant for external seams, which will provide additional protection against moisture penetration under the reinforcing pen.
- 🔧 A drill with a set of drills (including a feather drill of the desired diameter).
- 🔩 Stainless steel rim bolts (AISI 304 or 316).
- 🧴 Degreasing and two-component PVC glue.
- 📏 Roulette, marker and scissors.
⚠️ Attention: Use only stainless steel brand AISI 316 Normal stainless steel or saltwater galvanizing will quickly become corrosive, weakening the structure.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a rim bolt
The installation process requires accuracy and compliance with the temperature regime. Work is better done at air temperatures from +15 to +25 degrees Celsius. First, the marking of the installation site is done. If the boat has a transmutation board (wooden or plywood) glued into the cylinders, you need to drill through it, previously reinforcing the place with reinforcement cloth.
The surface of the balloon is marked under the heel, the surface is carefully degreased, then a pen is cut out of PVC fabric, the first layer of glue is applied to it and the balloon, after drying (usually 10-15 minutes), a second layer is applied, and the pen is tightly rolled with a roller, expelling air bubbles, and a hole is drilled into the center of the pen and the transom board (if any).
☑️ Checklist of anchor-rim installation
A bolt is inserted into the finished hole, wide washers are placed on the inside of the balloon (or on both sides of the transom) to distribute the load and prevent the tissue from being pressed. The nut is tightened with effort but no fanaticism, so as not to deform the balloon excessively. The final step is to smear the joint of the bolt and the penet with sealed waterproofing.
Table of selection of drill diameter and size of rims
To ensure the reliability of the connection, it is important to choose components that match the thickness of the material of your boat and the expected load. Below is a reference table that will help avoid errors in the selection of fasteners.
| Boat type/Load load | Hole diameter (mm) | Size of bolt thread | Recommended material of washers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Boats up to 2.5 m (light) | 6-8 mm | M6 | Stainless steel |
| Boats 3.0 - 3.5 m (medium) | 8-10 mm | M8 | Stainless steel + plastic |
| Boats 4.0 m+ (heavy) | 10-12 mm | M10 | Reinforced steel |
| transom anchorages | 10-14 mm | M10-M12 | Wide washers d=40mm |
Nuances of work with glue at low temperature
If you have to work at temperatures below +15 degrees, the polymerization time of the glue increases by 2-3 times. It is recommended to use a building hair dryer for preheating the glued surfaces to +40 degrees, but do not overheat the PVC, so as not to deform it. In cold weather, it is better to leave the boat to dry for 24 hours before loading.
Organization of anchor rope and rope
The rope itself (falin) must be floating so that when it breaks or needs to anchor, it does not go to the bottom. Ideally, a polypropylene cord is ideal. The length of the rope should be at least two depths at the fishing site, but for inflatable boats, 15-20 meters are often enough, since at depths greater than 5-6 meters it is risky to anchor from PVC boats.
For the convenience of controlling the rope, special coils or anchor seals are used. Anchor end It has to be fastened to the nose so that it can be quickly released with one hand if necessary. Often the "free end" method is used, where the rope is not tied tightly to the snag, but is passed through it and fixed to a weak thread at the stern, which allows the anchor to pull at the aft end and release it from the back.
- 🧶 Use a bright colored cord (orange, yellow) for visibility in the water.
- 🔗 At the end of the anchor rope, be sure to make a loop or carbine for fast fast fastening.
- 🚫 Do not store a wet rope in a sealer - it can sprinkle and lose strength.
Tip: Tie a small buoy on a thin cord to the anchor ring, and if the anchor gets stuck in the snags, you can pull it by the back of the armature and release it without diving.
Safety Techniques and Frequent Errors
Safety on the water is priority number one. The main danger when you use an anchor on an inflatable boat is the possibility of tipping over when you jerk hard on the nose, it can draw water on the side, so never tie the anchor end to the ditch if you are on a strong current.
Another critical mistake is the use of thin cords that can cut your hands when you're putting them on, or the absence of gloves, and it's also dangerous to anchor alone in deep water or in unfamiliar places with strong bottom relief.
The golden rule is that the anchor end should never be wound around the arm or body, and if you jerk abruptly, it can cause injury or falling overboard.
Regularly check the condition of the crum bolts and glue seam. Microcracks in the adhesive layer may be invisible visually, but when you load will cause the mount to break off. If you notice that the rum has started to "walk" or the seam has become lighter, repair immediately.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can the anchor be attached only to the transom board without strengthening the cylinder?
The anchor can be attached directly to the transom board without the output to the cylinder or without special reinforcement only if the board has a significant thickness and rigid attachments to the cylinders. However, when a strong jerk is made, the load can tear out the board mounts. It is recommended to always duplicate the mounting over the side or use special stickers.
What is the optimal weight for a 3-meter long boat?
For an inflatable boat with a length of 3 meters, the optimal weight of the anchor is considered to be in the range of 3-4 kg. A heavier anchor (5-6 kg) may be required only when fishing on a strong current or wind, but then the risk of damage to the bottom of the boat during lifting increases.
How to replace a special glue for PVC in the field?
In the field, there is no full replacement for two-component polyurethane glue, and the use of "Moments" or other household adhesives will only give a temporary effect that will not withstand the load and water. For emergency repairs, it is better to have a ready-made remake from the boat manufacturer.
Do I need to lubricate the bolt thread before installation?
Yes, the thread is recommended to be lubricated with lithium lubricant or graphite lubricant before screwing in, which will prevent the metal from boiling and make it easy to unscrew the bolt in the future for replacement or maintenance, and also creates an additional barrier to moisture.