Ignoring the preparation stages can lead to the fact that instead of the first spring release, the owner is waiting for the disassembly of the carburetor or the replacement of the fuel pump. Moisture remaining in the cooling system, when frozen, can break the cylinder block, and old gasoline will clog the nozzles. Below we will discuss in detail the algorithm of actions that will save your engine from premature old age.
Preparation of the fuel system and selection of preservative
The first and most critical step is to work with the fuel system, because modern gasoline tends to decompose and oxidize within a few months. Old fuel leaves a sticky coating after evaporation that clogs the carburetor's jellyboxes and fuel injectors. First, you need to drain the remnants of old gasoline from the tank and fuel lines to avoid the breakdown products from the combustion chamber.
The next step is to decide whether to leave the fuel system empty or filled with stabilized fuel. Experts recommend filling the tank to the brim with quality gasoline with added fuel. fuel-stabilizerTo minimize the amount of air and prevent condensation on the walls of the tank, condensation, in turn, is the main cause of rust inside the tank and water entering the engine.
It is important to use only specialized additives designed for long-term storage, and not just mix gasoline with oil in arbitrary proportions. After adding a preservative, you need to let the engine work for a few minutes so that the processed mixture passes through the entire fuel line, carburetor or injector, ensuring that the inner surfaces are protected from oxidation.
⚠️ Attention: Never leave fuel in the tank without adding a stabilizer if you plan to store the equipment for more than 30 days. The resulting resin may require ultrasonic cleaning of the carburetor or replacement of fuel injectors.
Use a transparent hose to visually monitor the passage of dyed stabilized fuel through the system before the engine stops.
Oil Replacement and Cylinder Group Protection
Motor oil accumulates combustion products, acid compounds and metal shavings during operation, which, when idle for a long time, aggressively affect the engine parts. Therefore, engine preservation necessarily begins with a complete change of oil and oil filter, if it is provided by the design. Fresh oil has a neutral acidity and contains a package of additives that protect the metal from corrosion during parking.
Particular attention should be paid to the cylinder-piston group, since this is where most often occurs. bully For two-stroke engines, you need to twist the spark plugs and pour about 10-15 ml of special conservation oil or a mixture of gasoline and oil in high concentrations into each cylinder, and then you need to slowly turn the crankshaft with a starter or manually several times so that the oil mist covers the cylinder mirror and piston rings.
For four-stroke engines, the procedure is similar, but often requires the use of aerosol lubricants, which are sprayed through the candle hole when the shaft is turned. Remember to twist the candles after processing, wash them or replace them with new ones, and insert old or special process candles into the cylinders so as not to damage the thread in the block head during storage.
☑️ Lubrication system control
Conservation of cooling system and water pump
The most dangerous enemy of the engine in winter is the water left in the cooling system. When it freezes, it expands and can split the cast-iron block or damage the aluminum cylinder heads. Complete engine conservation involves the guaranteed removal of all liquid from the cooling shirt, water channels and pump.
After draining water, experts recommend blowing the system with compressed air to remove moisture residue from hard-to-reach cavities. In some cases, especially for stationary closed-loop engines, the method of filling the system with antifreeze with an increased concentration of ethylene glycol is used, but for outboard motors operating in off-board water, this is not applicable - only thorough draining and drying.
And don't forget to lubricate the water pump glands, which can crack when drying out, and to start the engine with paint (if the design permits) or treat rubber seals with silicone lubrication will help to maintain their elasticity until next season.
What to do if the water does not drain completely?
If the design features do not allow the water to drain by gravity, use a compressor to blow out the exit holes of the cooling system. In extreme cases, store the engine in a heated room, but this does not guarantee complete drying of the internal cavities.
Protection of external elements and electrics
The external environment also spares the technique: salt, moisture and temperature changes destroy the paint coating and cause oxidation of contacts. Before storage, you must thoroughly wash the engine with fresh water, especially if it was operated in salt water. After washing, all metal surfaces that have no color should be treated. corrosion-proof Or a lubricant that creates a protective film.
Electric connectors and candle caps require special attention, it is recommended to treat the contacts with an electrician cleaner spray, and then apply a conservation lubricant that repels water, this will prevent oxidation of contacts and ignition problems in the spring, and it is also worth checking the condition of high-voltage wires for cracks and damage to the insulation.
To protect the lower unit and propeller from fouling and corrosion, you can use special protective lubricants. The screw is better removed, cleaned of dirt and windings, inspect for damage and lubricate the shaft with solidol or graphite grease before being re-installed or stored separately.
| Component | Action. | Materials | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel tank | Completion | Gasoline + stabilizer | 1 time in season |
| Carter engine | Replacement | Motor oil | 1 time in season |
| Cylinders | Lubricant | Conservation oil | 1 time in season |
| Electrician. | Processing | Contact spray | 1 time in season |
Rules of storage and packaging of the motor
Choosing the right storage space is as important as technical training, and engine preservation is useless if the engine is in the open air or in a damp, unheated shed where drafts walk, and the ideal is a dry, ventilated room with a constant temperature, protected from direct sunlight, which destroys plastic and rubber seals.
The motor should be kept upright to avoid deformation of the lower unit and dust entering through the exhaust hole. If the motor is removed from the boat, it is better to install it on a special stand that comes with a kit, or make a reliable base. It is not recommended to cover the motor with a dense cloth or plastic "slowly" because this creates a greenhouse effect and promotes moisture condensation.
Use breathable covers made of special fabric that allow air to pass through but trap dust. If the motor remains on the transom of the boat, be sure to cover it with a cover, but ensure that the space under the casing is ventilation to prevent condensation inside.
The main enemy of the stored motor is not cold, but temperature changes that cause moisture condensation inside the units and assemblies.
Common errors in conservation
Many owners make common mistakes that negate all care efforts, and one of the most common is trying to pump the engine before winter by running it at idle speeds without loading, which causes unburned fuel and carbon to accumulate in the cylinders and silencer, because when idling, the temperature is not enough to completely burn the mixture.
Another mistake is using used oils or inappropriate greases for preservation, some trying to fill the cylinders with ordinary engine oil, not designed for long downtime, or using solidol to treat external surfaces, which by spring turns into a sticky mass that collects dirt.
The battery is also often ignored: If the motor is equipped with an electric starter, the battery must be removed, fully charged and stored in a cool place, periodically recharged, and the battery left on the engine, the discharged battery can become completely unusable by spring due to sulphation of the plates.
⚠️ Attention: Don't store the engine indoors with the fuel in plastic canisters. Gasoline vapors are flammable and toxic, and plastic breaks down over time, which can lead to leakage and fire.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to start the engine during the winter?
No, starting the engine for the sake of "prevention" in winter is not recommended. Short start does not warm the engine to operating temperature, which leads to condensation of moisture in the exhaust system and crankcase, as well as washing oil film from the walls of the cylinders with new fuel. It is better to preserve the engine in the fall and not touch it until spring.
Can I keep the engine on my side?
Side storage is only possible in extreme cases and only on a specific side specified in the instructions (usually the right to keep oil from leaking into the carburetor or air filter). However, prolonged storage in this position can lead to deformation of the lower unit or seals.
How do you know if the conservation has been successful?
Successful conservation is confirmed by easy start of the engine in the spring, no smoke (except for the burnout of the preservative in the first seconds) and stable operation in all modes. If the engine smokes blue smoke for a long time or Troit, it is possible that the preservation was carried out with irregularities.
Do I need to lubricate the propeller?
Yes, the propeller shaft must be lubricated with water-resistant lubrication to prevent the screw from sticking to the shaft due to corrosion, and it is also recommended to rotate the screw manually periodically (every 1-2 months of storage) so that the lubricant is evenly distributed.