Proper installation sounder inflatable floor boats (BBBs) are critical stages in preparing for fishing. Unlike rigid hulls, PVC soft side is prone to deformation, vibration and impacts on the water surface, which requires a special approach to equipment installation. An error at this stage can lead not only to incorrect depth readings, but also to the loss of an expensive device during movement.
The specificity of the inflatable floor creates additional difficulties, since the sensor must be immersed in water deep enough to avoid capturing air bubbles, but not interfere with the landing of the fisherman and not be damaged on the bottom when pulling the boat ashore. transducer It must operate in a stable flow of water, which at speeds above 15 km/h becomes a challenge for inflatable boards. Below we will discuss proven methods that will ensure the reliable operation of your sonar system.
Choosing the optimal location for installing a transducer
The first step is always to carefully mark the side, and on boats like NDNDM, it is important to consider not only the geometry of the balloon, but also the location of the internal partitions, which can create turbulent flows. propeller Or the engine, where the water has already calmed down, but not yet saturated with bubbles from the operation of the engine.
Step away from the bow of at least one-third of the length of the balloon to avoid air capture when driving against the wave. If you plan to use a boat with both motor and paddles, the central tunnel or area under the seat should also be considered when planning the cable route.
It's important to check the location for internal seams or thickening of the material. The sensor should be as tight as possible to the surface, without gaps that could fill air pockets. Air is the main enemy of ultrasonic waves, reducing the sonar efficiency to zero.
- ⚓ Look for a smooth section of the side without folds and inflections of the material.
- ⚓ Make sure that there are no internal power elements of the boat in the installation area.
- ⚓ Check that the jet of water from the screw does not fall directly on the working surface of the sensor.
Comparison of fastening methods: glue, clamps or suction cups
There are several basic ways to fix the equipment on the softboard, and each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. The choice depends on whether you are ready for a permanent change in the design of the boat or prefer to do so. detachable.
The most reliable, but also the most risky method is to glue the site, using a special glue for PVC, similar to that used in repairing boats. However, this method requires perfect surface preparation and skills, because it will be extremely difficult to tear the sensor off without damaging the tissue, the alternative is mechanical clamps and clamps that cover the cylinder.
Suction cups and magnets (if there is a metal plate inside the board) are only suitable for temporary use at low speeds. On inflatable sides, magnets are often useless due to the large thickness of the material and the presence of an air layer that weakens the magnetic field.
| Mounting method | Reliability | Difficulty of installation | Risk of damage to the boat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sticking the site | High. | High. | Medium (during dismantling) |
| Mechanical clamping | Medium | Low. | Low (possible scuffling) |
| Velcro straps/Suckers | Low. | Very low. | Missing. |
Manufacturing and installation of a tidal platform
If you choose the adhesive method, you'll need to make or purchase a special area (tide) of hard PVC or textolite, which serves as an interface between the soft side and the rigid body of the sensor. Area of adherence The wind and water loads must be distributed evenly.
The process starts with degreasing the surface of the boat and the site itself. Use acetone or a special PVC cleaner. Once dryed, the first thin layer of glue is applied to both surfaces and aged until it is stuck, and then a second, thicker layer is applied, and the parts are combined with the force, squeezing out the excess glue.
⚠️ Attention: When gluing, make sure that there are no air bubbles under the platform. Any air pocket will become a point of tension and will detach the sensor at the first serious shock to the wave.
After polymerization of the adhesive (usually 24 hours), a fastening bolt is screwed into the site or a quick removal mechanism is installed, and it is important not to overtighten the mount so as not to deform the soft side, as this will change the angle of the sensor.
Cable protection and wiring organization
The sensor cable is the most vulnerable part of the system, and on a PVC boat, it is subject to constant friction against the side, ultraviolet light, and mechanical stresses when the cylinders are blown and inflated. Wire laying shall be so designed as to avoid accidental engagement by the feet or fishing gear.
It is recommended to use a corrugated tube or spiral braid on areas where the cable comes into contact with the sides or seats. sealant or valve, if the design of the boat allows, or gently skip under the stringer, fixing the tape.
Never leave the cable loosely dangling. When you wind the boat down, you can accidentally pinch it or cut it with sharp edges of the package. Make some locking points with plastic clamps or Velcro straps, but don't clamping the wire so as not to disturb the integrity of the insulation.
- 🔌 Use Cambricks to protect the connection points of wires.
- 🔌 Lay the cable along the seams or existing structural elements for camouflage.
- 🔌 Leave a small margin of length at the sensor to compensate for the stretching of the material during pumping.
Depth adjustment and testing on the water
After physical installation, the adjustment stage begins: the angle of the sensor tilt relative to the horizontal should be approximately 90 degrees, but in practice it is often thrown back a little to compensate for the boat's ambience on the move. Depth of immersion The working surface shall be such that the upper edge of the sensor is below the water level by at least 5-10 cm.
The first run is better done on standing water. Turn on the sonar and make sure it shows the bottom. If the screen is a lot of noise or the picture is unstable, try slowly changing the angle of inclination or depth of immersion. At speed, the picture may deteriorate due to cavitation, in which case the sensor should be lowered deeper.
⚠️ Attention: Do not test the sonar simply by putting the sensor in a bucket of water inside the room. Ultrazuk does not pass through the thin walls of the bucket and air, the results will be incorrect. Test only in the water.
Operation and winter storage
After every fishing trip, especially in salt water, the sensor and fasteners must be rinsed with fresh water, and salt and silt can accumulate on the working surface, degrade the signal, and corrosion of the metal elements of the fastener.
When preparing the boat for winter storage, it is better to dismantle the sensor if a removable mount was used. If the sensor is glued, make sure that the boat is kept in an unstretched state, without clamps at the installation site.
Regularly check the condition of the cable for microcracks, especially in the exit points of the sensor case. Timely replacement of the damaged section of the cable or the use of waterproofing tape will prevent short circuit and failure of the entire device.
- ❄️ Keep the sensor in a warm room, avoiding direct contact with the heaters.
- ❄️ Lubricate the threaded joints with silicone lubrication before assembly.
- ❄️ Check the tightness of the cable entering the boat hull before each season.
Can I attach the sensor with tape?
Using regular tape, even reinforced tape, is a temporary solution for one time. Under the influence of water, sun and vibration, the adhesive base will quickly lose its properties. For reliable fixation, use only specialized materials or mechanical fasteners.
At what height from the bottom of the boat to put the sensor?
The optimum height is the minimum possible to avoid obstructing fishing, but deep enough for stable contact with water, usually 5-15 cm below the waterline, and it is important not to put it too low on the NDNDM so as not to penetrate the tank when you touch the bottom.
Does the color of the sensor affect the stick?
It's been suggested that bright colors can scare fish away, especially in clear water. But the sensor is under the boat, in the shade and turbulence zone, so the fish can hardly see it, and yet many people prefer black or dark gray models.
What if the sensor starts to “glutch” at speed?
This is a sign of cavitation. Try lowering the sensor down, changing its angle of inclination, or moving it closer to the stern, away from the active whirlpool created by the transom or motor.