A transomoon-powered inflatable boat is the perfect trade-off between mobility and functionality for the angler, but installing navigational electronics requires a special approach. Unlike rigid hulls, the soft side and transom create constant vibration, and the running engine generates powerful electromagnetic interference that can turn a sonar image into a porridge. Proper installation of the sensor (transducer) becomes a critical task on which not only the quality of the bottom display, but also the safety of the equipment during movement.
Many owners PVCThe boats make the mistake of simply sticking the sensor to the balloon or mounting it on a temporary plate, which leads to permanent demolition and loss of signal. To work reliably in conjunction with the outboard motor, you need to consider the hydrodynamics of the water flow, the angle of entry of the beam and, most importantly, the ability to quickly dismantle when you go ashore. In this article, we will discuss proven installation methods that will ensure a stable picture and protect your equipment.
Selection of type of inflatable board anchorage
The first step is always to determine the installation site, and here the fisherman has several proven options, each of which has its advantages. The most common solution is to use special suction cups or brackets that are fixed directly to the cylinder, but for speeds above 10 km / h this may not be reliable enough. A more advanced solution is to install on a remote bracket mounted on a transom or on a special site, which allows you to remove the sensor from the air bubbles created by the engine screw.
If you're planning an active fishing trip with frequent relocations, consider a quick-removal mechanism that allows you to unfasten the sensor in seconds. fixation It has a direct impact on signal clarity: the smaller the sensor's oscillation amplitude in the water, the more detailed the image of the bottom structure will be. PVC Often use combined methods, where the base is attached to the transom, and the sensor is carried out on a flexible or adjustable rod.
- 🔹 Suction cups with screw clip - suitable for calm water and low speeds, are easily mounted.
- 🔹 transom brackets - provide maximum rigidity and stability of the position in the flow.
- 🔹 Remote bars on the cylinder - allow you to position the sensor in the zone of clean water flow away from the motor.
⚠️ Warning: Never place the sensor strictly in the center of the transom for an outboard motor, as cavitation bubbles from the screw completely block the ultrasonic signal, making the sonar useless.
Required tools and materials
To do the installation work properly, you'll need the minimum toolkit that any homemaker has, but there are also specific materials that you can't save on. The basis of success will be the right glue and sealant that can withstand constant contact with water, ultraviolet light and temperature changes. Using inappropriate chemistry can lead to detachment of the mount at the most inopportune moment or even damage to the material of the boat.
Special attention should be paid to laying the cable, which often becomes the weak link of the entire system. You will need high-quality insulation, shrink tubes and possibly a corrugated pipe to protect the wire from rubbing on the side or transom. epoxy and two-component adhesives must be prepared degreasing, sandpaper fine grain and clean rags.
☑️ Checklist for preparation for installation
Be sure to prepare a place in advance for the sonar display, as the cable from the sensor should have a sufficient margin of length, but not hang loose. It is often useful to have small wooden bars or plastic plates at hand, which will serve as transition platforms for the distribution of load on the soft side. Lowrance, Garmin Other manufacturers often complete their devices with basic fasteners, but for the harsh conditions of Russian fishing, they often have to be reinforced or modified.
Step-by-step instructions for installation on a transom
Mounting the sensor directly onto the transom board is the most reliable way to ensure that the emitter is stable in water. Start by fitting the bracket: it must be positioned so that the plane of the emitter is parallel to the surface of the water when the boat is in motion. Stick or fasten the mounting pad to the transom, after thoroughly degreasing the surface, and let the composition be fully polymerized according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Once the base is fixed, install the sensor itself, using an adjustable connection to be able to change the angle of inclination. It is critical to set the angle so that the beam goes vertically downwards as the boat moves, compensating for the stern differential. This may require several test trips to the water and twisting the fixing nuts or screws.
| Parameter | Recommended value | Effect on signal |
|---|---|---|
| Depth of immersion | 10-20 cm below bottom | Reduces the number of bubbles |
| Inclination angle | Parallel to the bottom | Maximum reflection |
| Removal from the engine | Minimum 30-40 cm | Reduced interference and cavitation |
| Stiffness of fixation | High. | Clearness of picture |
Use growers (spring washers) when fastening the bracket with bolts - the vibration of the motor over time unwinds the usual nuts, which leads to the loss of the sensor.
The final stage will be the organization of cable management: the wire must be reliably fixed with screeds along the transom and the side, excluding getting into the rotation zone of the screw. The cable cannot be pulled into the string.Always leave a small loop at the boat's entry point to compensate for vibrations and jerks, and check the tightness of all joints before the first full swim to ensure that no moisture enters the connectors.
Installation on the inflatable side: nuances and risks
The sensor installation on the balloon is often chosen by those who do not want to drill the transom or use removable transom boards. PVC fabric Special screw-pressed suction cups work well, but require a perfectly smooth and clean surface of the balloon, which is not always possible in the field with sand and dirt.
An alternative is adhesive pads that stick to the balloon and have a response part to quickly remove the sensor. This method requires careful surface preparation: the installation site must be cleaned with fine sandpaper, degreased and applied a special glue for PVC. An error in the choice of glue can cause the site to break off along with a piece of the cylinder fabric or, conversely, stick firmly, making it impossible to dismantle without damage.
- 🔹 Wash and dry the installation site carefully before gluing the site.
- 🔹 Use only specialized adhesives for polyurethanes and PVC (for example, Texacol or Desmodur).
- 🔹 Avoid installation on rounded parts of the balloon - choose the most flat areas.
⚠️ Attention: When attached to the board, make sure that in calm the sensor does not float to the surface and does not beat against the balloon, creating parasitic illuminations on the sonar screen.
How to remove the glue pad without harming the boat?
To dismantle the adhesive pad, gently heat it with a hair dryer to 50-60 degrees, which will soften the glue. Then slowly, with a thin line or plastic spatula, pop the edge of the pad while simultaneously spraying the joint with alcohol or a special adhesive solvent. Do not use sharp metal objects so as not to cut the PVC fabric.
Protection against electromagnetic interference of the motor
A running outboard motor is a powerful source of interference that can completely drown out a useful sounder signal, especially two-stroke units with a system. CDIThis can be manifested in the form of chaotic stripes, ripples or the complete disappearance of the bottom on the screen, which makes fishing impossible, the main reason lies in poor grounding or poor-quality insulation of high-voltage wires of the engine ignition system.
To minimize interference, the first thing you need to do is check the candle caps and high-voltage wires: they need to be crack-free and sit securely on candles. Often, it helps to install additional grounding between the motor and the transcreant, and the use of ferrite rings on the power cable and the sonar signal cable. Ferritas work as filters, suppressing high-frequency tips that go through the wires.
If interference persists, try to change the position of the sonar cable: lay it as far away from the wiring of the motor and battery as possible. In some cases, only shielding the cable with copper foil or buying a more expensive cable with a reinforced (screen) saves. Battery It should also be serviceable, as the old battery can produce a “dirty” voltage that increases interference.
90% of problems with the “loss” of the bottom on the go are caused not by a faulty sonar, but by poor contact of the mass of the motor or a breakdown in the insulation of high-voltage wires.
Customization and calibration after installation
After the physical attachment of the sensor and launching the boat into the water, the stage of software adjustment occurs, without which even perfectly installed equipment will not show its capabilities. The first thing to do is to choose the correct mode of operation of the sonar depending on the type of bottom and depth: shallow water mode or manual sensitivity selection is suitable for shallow water, so as not to “clog” the screen with lights from the bottom.
Be sure to calibrate your speed if your sonar supports speed determination through the Doppler effect or has a built-in speed thermometer. Make sure the radiation frequency (200 kHz or 83 kHz) is right for your tasks: high frequency will give a detailed picture in shallow water, and low will penetrate large depths, but with less detail. Remember to periodically check the temperature of the sensor, as some models are sensitive to overheating in the sun outside the water.
When you fish, pay attention to the behavior of the fish arcs: if they're intermittent or blurry, it's possible that the sensor still vibrates or the angle of entry of the beam is not optimal. Sensitivity (Sensitivity) and Noise Filter (Noise Filter) It can cut off the extra and produce a useful signal, and regular cleaning of the working surface of the sensor from algae and plaque is also necessary for stable operation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I attach the sounder sensor with tape or tape?
It is strongly recommended not to use regular tape or tape for permanent fastening. Under the influence of water, sun and vibration, the glue will quickly lose its properties, and you risk losing expensive equipment. Use only specialized brackets or two-part adhesives.
Why does the sonar show the bottom only in the parking lot, and on the move loses the signal?
It's likely that the sensor is in the cavitation zone (air bubbles) from the engine propeller or has too large an angle of inclination, which causes the beam to bounce off the water surface rather than from the bottom. Try lowering the sensor below or moving it further from the diametric axis of the motor.
Do I need to remove the sensor when storing the boat?
It is advisable to remove the sensor or unfasten it from the bracket to avoid accidental damage during transportation or storage, and prolonged exposure to water can lead to fouling of the working surface, which will worsen the signal quality next time.
What is the maximum speed allowed for the sensor on the suction cup?
For most models on suction cups, the maximum speed is 10-15 km / h. If this value is exceeded, the risk of suction cup tearing off due to increased water pressure and vibration increases, so it is better to use rigid transom fasteners for high-speed boats.