Effective fishing or bottom exploration is impossible without a high-quality sonar, but even the most expensive instrument will only show noise if its sensor is installed incorrectly. Inflatable boat owners often face the dilemma of how to fasten sensitive equipment on a soft and flexible transom so as to get a clean picture and not damage the boat with a sharp propeller of the engine.
There are several proven ways to fix the emitter, each of which has its advantages depending on the design of your boat and the type of motor. In this article, we will discuss the nuances of location, brackets and cable mounting techniques that will ensure the stable operation of the sonar in all conditions.
Choosing the optimal location for installation
The first step is to visually inspect your tanning board. PVC boatsThe sensor should be in an area where the flow of water around the bottom is laminar and does not contain air bubbles, usually the central part of the transom, but the shift to the left or right can be dictated by the design of the motor or the presence of drain stoppers.
It is important to consider the inclination angle of the transom, which inflatable boats often vary depending on the pressure in the cylinders and the load of the vessel. If you set the emitter too high, on the plane it will "catch air", interrupting the signal. Too low position increases the resistance of the water and the risk of impact on underwater obstacles.
⚠️ Warning: Never place the sensor directly in front of the propeller of the motor or in the zone of active turbulence from the gearbox, as air bubbles will make the sonar readings useless.
When choosing the side of the installation (left or starboard relative to the engine), be guided by the convenience of access to the device and the length of the regular cable. Most often, the installation is done on the side opposite to the vomiting of the engine to minimize the risk of cable overlap.
Types of inflatable transom anchorages
The stiffness of the boat's PVC transom board is far inferior to that of the aluminum or fiberglass transom, so standard drilling methods are rarely used. The most popular solution is to use specialized brackets that cover the top edge of the transom.
- 🔩 Clip-pin brackets: universal clamps with rubber pads that are fixed by screws directly to the board, without requiring drilling through holes.
- 📏 transom wheels with padMultifunctional devices combining a focus for transportation and a platform for mounting the sensor.
- 🧲 Magnetic holders: suitable only for boats with hard transensee, PVC is used extremely rarely due to the risk of slipping and tissue damage.
If you use a removable bracket, make sure that the bottom of the pintog, which is the sensor itself, is vertically adjustable, and this will allow you to experimentally adjust the depth of the dive depending on the speed of movement and the excitement on the water.
For soft-transcent boats (without a hard insert), the only option is to use remote brackets attached to the board or an inflatable balloon system, however, this is a less stable option, subject to fluctuations.
Technology of mounting the bracket
The installation process begins with a thorough surface preparation, and if you choose the down screw option, the metal must be perfectly clean, and any grain of sand can become a stress point and damage the material with prolonged load.
Hold the bracket in the center or according to the chosen scheme, pre-positioning rubber or silicone gaskets. They not only protect the material of the boat from abrasion, but also extinguish vibrations that can be transmitted to the sensor and distort the sounder signal.
☑️ Checking the bracket installation
After fixing the main part, check the reliability of the connection on land, applying a lateral force. The design should not stagger or luft, as the amplitude of vibrations will increase on water, which will lead to unstable operation of the device.
Customization of depth and dive angle
The key is to properly align the sensor's working surface, which should be strictly parallel to the water surface in the static position of the boat, and if the boat is standing on a flat keel, the radiator's heel should also look vertically down.
The depth of immersion is learned by experiment. Start with minimal submergence, where the top edge of the sensor is just slightly protruding into the water. Start the motor and gradually increase the speed. If there is a gap or noise on the screen, lower the sensor below.
| A symptom. | Probable cause | Decision |
|---|---|---|
| Loss of signal at speed | Sensor too high, captures air | Lower down by 1-2cm |
| Severe noise and interference | Cavitation or propeller bubbles | Move further away from the motor or deeper |
| Fuzzy picture of the bottom | Incorrect angle of inclination of the working surface | Line parallel to the keel of the boat |
| Sensor knocks back. | Weak pull of the bracket spring | Pull up the adjusting screw |
The optimal position is when the sensor is immersed in water 3-5 cm below the bottom level, which ensures stable contact with the aquatic environment even when passing through a small wave.
When adjusting the depth, use a transparent water tank to visually assess the angle of radiation and the absence of bubbles under the sensor’s working surface before first starting.
Cable laying and protection
The cable track is a weak point of any echolocation system on an inflatable boat, and the wires must be protected from rubbing against the sharp corners of the transom, the fittings, or the bracket itself, and use a corrugated tube or spiral braid for added protection.
It is important to leave a small margin of cable length ("loop") before entering the sensor and before connecting to the head unit.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to lay the cable in close proximity to the power wires of the starter battery, as this will create strong electromagnetic tips.
The cable attachment to the sides of the boat is better done with special clips on adhesive basis or soft clamps that will not damage the PVC fabric when blowing the boat. Do not use wire or rigid screeds without insulation.
Seasonal maintenance and storage
Once the navigation is complete, the sensor must be removed, washed with fresh water and thoroughly dried, and residues of salt, silt or fish mucus can erode the radiator coating or cause corrosion of metal parts of the attachment.
It is better to store the pintog in a horizontal position, avoiding impacts on solid objects. The working surface of a ceramic or plastic emitter is sensitive to chips that can disrupt the acoustic picture.
What to do if the sensor is covered with fouling?
If algae or shells appear on the sensor during operation, do not clean them with a knife or abrasive sponges. Use soft fabric soaked in a weak solution of vinegar or a specialized echo sounder cleaning tool to avoid damaging the sensitive layer.
Regularly check the condition of seals and the entry points of the cable into the sensor case. leakage is the most common reason for the failure of expensive equipment in the off-season.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I attach the sensor to the inflatable part of the balloon?
Technically, this is possible with special suction cups or adhesive platforms, but this method is not recommended for active fishing. The inflatable surface is constantly vibrating and changing geometry, which causes severe interference in the sounder signal.
How does the thickness of the transom board affect the sonar work?
If the sensor is installed inside the boat (through the bottom), the thickness of the plywood or aluminum is critical. transmutation However, PVC boats are more likely to use an external mount, where the thickness of the board does not matter, only the angle of inclination is important.
Do I need to lubricate the axis of the rotary mechanism?
Yes, the moving parts of the bracket and the sensor axis itself are recommended to be periodically lubricated with silicone lubrication, which does not destroy the rubber elements and prevents the mechanism from acidifying in salt water.
Why does the sonar show "porridge" when moving?
Most often, this is cavitation, and the sensor picks up air bubbles that reflect the signal, and try lowering it deeper or moving it further away from the motor to get out of the turbulent flow zone.
The main secret of success is not to save on the quality of the bracket and devote 80% of the time to adjust the depth of immersion, since this parameter determines the stability of the picture on the go.