Successful fishing on a PVC outboard boat depends largely on the quality of the echo signal, which in turn is directly related to the correct installation of equipment. sounder It can give a distorted picture of the bottom, pass fish or lose signal because of cavitation and air bubbles. For owners of inflatable floaters, the task is complicated by the lack of a rigid transom in the classical sense and the need to protect the cylinders from damage.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of installation, from the selection of the location to the final configuration of the device. avoid common mistakesThe newcomers can do this, and how to keep sonar running smoothly, even at high speeds, and if you can get it right, you can not only improve the quality of fishing, but you can also extend the life of expensive electronics.
We'll focus on safety and tightness, because water and electricity are dangerous combinations, and we'll look at the different types of fasteners that are suitable for the soft sides and trunks of inflatable boats. It is critically important to understand that for PVC boats you can not use standard rigid brackets designed for metal boats, without special adaptation.
Choosing the optimal location for the sensor installation
The first and most important step is to determine the zone where the signal-emitterPVC boats with a motor have limited space, and you have to balance the ease of operation with the quality of the device, and the sensor has to be in the water at all times, even when the boat is standing still or moving at a minimum speed.
The ideal place is the lower part of the transom, but with a mandatory indentation from the propeller jet, if the sensor falls into the zone of active water bubbling created by the propeller. propellerThe air bubbles that saturate the water flow from the motor completely block the ultrasonic waves, making the device useless.
You also have to consider the angle of the bottom of the boat, and when you're moving, an inflatable boat can pick up your nose a little bit, changing the angle of attack of the sensor, and it's important that the surface of the emitter is parallel to the water, not going to the depth or, on the contrary, not coming to the surface when you set speed, you can temporarily attach the sensor to the suction cup or scotch and do a test swim.
The sensor should not be placed too close to the edge of the cylinder, where there is a high risk of mechanical damage to the rocky bottom when landing on shore. The optimal distance from the side or center of the transom is selected individually, but always strive for maximum distance from the sources of aeration of water.
⚠️ Attention: Never place the sensor directly in the engine exhaust stream. The exhaust creates a powerful cavitation zone that completely "muffles" the echo signal, regardless of the power of your sonar.
Types of inflatable boat anchorages
The market offers several solutions for fixing equipment on soft sides, and the choice depends on the design of your boat and the type of engine. The main requirement for any PVC fastening is the absence of sharp edges that could damage the tank material when friction or vibration.
The most popular option is a special bracket with soft linings or belts, which allows you to fix the sensor on the transom or on board without drilling and leakage, such structures often have an adjustable height, which is convenient when changing the load of the boat or fishing conditions.
There are also universal suction cups and scooters with wide sponges protected by rubber, but it is worth remembering that suction cups are less reliable at high speeds and can unstuck when hit by a wave. Strubkins require a rigid element, such as a wooden transom liner or a special area.
- 🛠️ Tranza brackets: Fixed directly to the board of the transom, providing rigid fixation, but require careful adjustment of height.
- 🎣 Onboard holders: Installed on the inflatable side with belts, convenient for boats without a hard transom, but can be displaced by strong pitching.
- 🔩 Soft sponge rods: Universal solution for temporary installation, easy to remove and transfer, but take up space on the runduk.
When choosing a fastener, pay attention to the material of manufacture. Plastic should be frost resistant and resistant to ultraviolet light, and metal elements should have an anti-corrosion coating, since salt water quickly disables ordinary steel.
Instructions for installation: step-by-step algorithm
The process of installing the sonar requires care and consistency of actions. First, you need to prepare all the tools and components: the sensor itself, the cable, the fasteners, the sealant and possibly additional clamps. Before starting work, you should inflate the boat and set it horizontally.
Start by fitting the bracket into the selected position. Make sure that the belts or clamps do not overly clamp the cylinder, but also do not hang loosely. If you use a tray board, check whether the sensor will not touch the screw when you turn the motor. The cable should be free-range, but not hang with loops that can wind on the screw.
Then, attach the sensor to the bracket using screws and nuts. It's important not to pull the plastic case of the sensor so as not to damage it. The angle of the emitter should be such that its working surface looks strictly down when the boat moves. To adjust the angle, pads are often used to adjust the washers, which come with a kit.
☑️ Checklist of installation
After mechanical fixation, move to the cable laying. On PVC boats, this is a critical point, as the cable should not rub against the side or be stretched. Use special clips or soft screeds to fix the wire along the side or inside the boat, if the design allows.
⚠️ Attention: When pulling the cable through the side or transom, be sure to use rubber sleeves or corrugated. A sharp edge of the hole in the fabric or plywood can cut the insulation, which will short circuit and the device will fail.
Cable laying and power connection
The quality of the image on the sonar screen depends on the condition of the cable track. The sensor cable cannot be extended by conventional twisting, as this violates the resistance of the line and creates interference. If the length of the regular wire is not enough, it is better to purchase an extension cable with ready-made connectors or use specialized connectors.
When connecting the power to the battery, be sure to use a fuse installed as close to the current source as possible, this will protect the wiring from ignition in the event of a short circuit. The wire cross section must correspond to the power consumption of the device, although for modern sonars, a standard cross-section is usually enough.
To protect the joints from moisture, use shrink tubes with adhesive layer or special marine sealants. Conventional sealants on the water do not last long and eventually unstuck, baring the contacts. All connectors that can contact water should have a protection class at least lower than the previous one. IP67.
Carefully stow wires inside the boat so that they do not interfere with the movement of the angler and are not accidentally hit by gear. It is best to fasten them along the inner circuit of the balloon or under the seats using Velcro or plastic clips. Do not allow the cable to sag in the center of the boat, where it can step on it.
How to properly seal the connectors?
To seal the connectors reliably, use a combination of methods. First, wrap the connection tightly with insulation, then apply a layer of silicone sealant and put a heat shrink tube on top of it. When heated, the tube will tightly clamp the connection to create a waterproof cocoon. It is important not to save on sealing, since the penetration of moisture into the connector causes contact oxidation and loss of signal.
Customization and calibration after installation
After you physically fit it, you need to set the device up properly to get a clear picture. First, you need to set the sounder up and wait for the signal to appear. If the boat is standing still, you need to see a flat bottom line. As you move, the picture may change, and you need to adjust.
Pay attention to the sensitivity settings (sensitivityToo high sensitivity will result in noise and false targets, and too low will result in the loss of small fish and relief features. The optimal value is usually a level at which the bottom is clearly visible and the noise arches are minimal.
| Parameter | Recommended value | Impact on the picture |
|---|---|---|
| Frequency (Frequency) | 200 kHz (details) / 50 kHz (depth) | High frequency gives a detailed picture in shallow water, low penetrates great depths. |
| Sensitivity (Sensitivity) | 60-80% (depending on the model) | It regulates the number of visible objects, and the excess creates noise. |
| Range (Range) | Auto or manually in depth | Determines the scale of the display, put less in shallow water. |
So, an important step is to calibrate the speed of sound, especially if you're fishing in waters with different salinity or water temperature, and in fresh water, the speed of sound is lower than in salt water, which affects the accuracy of the depth mapping. Lowrance or Garmin Often have automatic correction, but manual adjustment gives the best result.
Tip: To fine-tune the depth, lower the loader to a known depth (e.g., 5 meters) and compare the sounder readings. If there is a discrepancy, use the depth calibration function in the instrument menu.
Typical errors and ways to fix them
Even with the instructions, anglers often experience operational problems, and one of the most common is periodic loss of signal, which may be caused not by poor contact, but by the formation of algae on the surface of the sensor, and regular cleaning of the emitter is necessary for stable operation.
Another common mistake is to set the sensor too high, so that when the boat moves under the sensor, air is sucked into the sensor, and the device will go blind, and the solution is one: lower the sensor lower, but not so much that it creates additional resistance and brakes the boat.
And the problem of interference is also worth mentioning, if you have an electric motor or a second sonar on the boat, and the power cables and the signal wires don't have to be parallel to each other, and you can only cross them at right angles to minimize the tips.
- 🌊 Cavitation: Occurs at too high speed or incorrect angle, is treated by scoring the sensor.
- 🔋 Unstable nutrition: Voltage surges from the motor can reboot the device, you need to install a interference filter.
- 🧵 Weed winding: Long algae can stick to the mount, changing the angle of operation of the sensor.
If you notice fish arcs becoming intermittent or disappearing on the go, check the bracket's mounting strength. The vibration from the motor on PVC boats is very good and can unwind connections. Periodically check the tightening of all screws and nuts.
The main secret of success is a regular check of the sensor and mounts before each release to the water, as the soft side of the PVC boat is prone to deformation.
Can I install a sonar on a PVC boat without drilling a transom?
Yes, it's possible and even preferable to conserve the life of the boat, there are suction cups, Velcro straps or belts that cover the balloon, but for high-speed fishing, it's recommended to use a transom board that is inserted between the motor and the soft transom, providing a rigid platform.
At what height from the bottom of the boat should there be a sensor?
The working surface of the sensor should be submerged 10-20 cm below the bottom of the boat when it is static. When moving, the boat can rise, so a margin of depth is necessary so that the sensor does not leave the water and capture air.
Is it harmful to leave the sonar turned on in the parking lot?
Yes, it's undesirable. First, it consumes battery power. Second, if the boat is in shallow water, the emitter can overheat due to the lack of water circulation for cooling, which will damage the crystal.
How to protect the cable from rubbing on the side?
Use a corrugated tube or spiral braid in contact with the fabric, and you can also stick a strip of self-adhesive PVC or fluoroplastic tape on the side of the cable, creating a smooth and slippery surface.