The question of reliable fixation of the boat on the water rises before every owner of an inflatable boat, whether it is fishing, hunting or just relaxing in nature. Anchorage It's not just a load that's lowered, it's a complex process that requires taking into account wind, current and design, and a mistake in the calculation or the choice of staging pattern can lead to the boat being demolished from a fishing spot or, more dangerously, to the boat being turned over on the wave.
Inflatable boats from PVC They're very buoyant and lightweight, and they're vulnerable to the elements even in small winds. Unlike heavy metal boats, lightweight inflatable boats respond to the slightest change in external conditions, so the standard maritime rules need to be adapted. You need to understand the physics of the process: the anchor must not only lie on the bottom, but also hold it securely. anchor-lining at the right angle.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the nuances of anchorage, from the choice of cargo type to staging schemes that will ensure your safety. You will learn why the classic “nose” method can be dangerous for an inflater, and how to use it correctly. anchorCompetent training will allow you to focus on fishing without worrying about drifting or risking your life.
Choosing an anchor for an inflatable boat
The first step in preparing for the launch is to find the right anchor, and for inflatable boats, the anchor mass should be approximately 1/10 of the displacement of the vessel, but it should be compact and safe for cylinders. Heavy cast-iron cats or bulky Admiralty anchors can damage the vessel. PVC when lifted or stored, so their use is not recommended without special protection.
The ideal solution for lightweight inflatable boats is Denforth or Grapple folding anchors, which have sharp legs that go deep into the ground, and when folded, take up minimal space. It is important that the anchor's legs do not have sharp barbs that can puncture the balloon.
- 🛑 Anchor Grapple. - universal folding version with four legs, perfectly holding on a rocky bottom.
- ⚓ Denforth anchor It has a high holding power on sand and silt, but requires a long spindle.
- 🪨 Lead "Plancake" - safe for the boat, as it has no sharp corners, but worse keeps on hard ground.
- 🧱 Concrete weight is a budget option, but extremely fragile and can crumble from a blow to the bottom.
When choosing, pay attention to the availability cock-wheel This element prevents anchor rope from twisting, which is especially true when the wind or current changes direction, and if the vertebra does not exist, the anchor may begin to rotate with the boat, leading to entanglement of the line and loss of control over the position.
⚠️ Attention: Never tie an anchor shaft directly to a ring on your paw or spindle without using a burst insert. If you get stuck anchoring in the snags, you risk losing not only the load, but also flipping the boat over when you try to snatch.
Preparation of anchoring and line
The basic element here is anchor line, which must have a certain elasticity and strength, synthetic cables made of polypropylene or nylon are preferable to chains, because they are lighter, do not rust or scratch cylinders. anchor-chain (stack-rope) length of 1-1.5 meters between the anchor and the main line is welcome: it presses the legs of the anchor to the bottom, improving the hook.
The length of the anchor line should be calculated from the depth of the reservoir. The golden rule of navigation says that the length of the line should be 3-4 times the depth in the parking lot. This ratio provides the correct angle of attack of the anchor's paws. If you throw the anchor vertically down on the long end, it will just lie on the ground and not catch. When the wind blows the boat, the molt will stretch horizontally, and only then the anchor will start to work.
For ease of length management is used anchor-buoy Or just molting knots measuring meters, and it's also very useful to have a fixed blade knife on board, fixed in an accessible location, and in an emergency, when an anchor rope winds itself into a motor propeller or gets tangled in a snag, the ability to quickly cut the molt can save the boat.
Use stainless steel carbines to connect the anchor to the line - this will speed up the process of assembly and disassembly of the tackle on the shore.
Schemes of anchoring: bow and aft
There are two basic schemes for anchoring an inflatable boat, from the bow and from the stern, each with its own advantages and critical risks, which are unacceptable to ignore. anchor-royme.
Classic sea staging is done from the nose. The boat becomes lag to the wind and current, which provides maximum stability. However, for inflatable boats with flat bottom and high sides, this creates greater sailing. The wave that goes on board can easily spill over through the cylinder, and when a strong gust, the boat can turn around and even flip. So, the nasal staging on an inflatable boat is allowed only if there is a reliable nasal rump located below the level of the inflated balloon, and in calm water.
The safest method for inflatable boats is to be sterned, where the boat turns its nose against the wind and waves, cutting them with a sharp stem, which reduces sailing and the risk of water flooding into the cockpit. The stern is especially effective when fishing in the surf or on the current. feed-rip, able to withstand a jerk.
For inflatable boats, stern staging is a priority, as it reduces the risk of flooding with a wave and provides better stability.
If you plan to fish from anchor often, it makes sense to install additional rump rings on the sides of the bow, which will allow you to change the angle of the boat relative to the wind, which is convenient for throwing gear. But remember: never tie the anchor shaft to the keys for oars or to the handles for carrying - these elements are not designed for such loads and can come off.
Step-by-step instructions: how to properly anchor
The anchoring process requires a clear sequence of actions: first, you need to choose a location, assess the depth, nature of the bottom and the presence of obstacles, swim to a point, turn off the engine and let the boat turn in the wind, only then you can start manipulating the anchor.
☑️ Anchoring algorithm
Drop the anchor downwind so it doesn't get nailed to the boat. Slowly mow the molt, allowing the boat to retreat back under the influence of wind or current. When the required length is etched (3-4 depths), fix the phalt on the frock. Don't anchor "as usual" - it should touch the bottom, then select a slack to get the paws laid properly, and then apply the pull.
Once secured, check the safety of the parking lot. Pick a landmark on the shore and watch it. If the boat starts to shift, then the anchor will crawl. In this case, you need to lift the load, inspect it and try to re-arm somewhere else or increase the length of the line. vertebral.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to secure the anchor tile if you are in a place with a possible sharp rise in the water level or a strong current, in a critical situation, this can lead to the flooding of the boat by a wave.
Table: Dependence of line length on depth
For easy calculations of the required length of anchor rope, use the following table: the data are given for moderate wind and current conditions. In stormy weather, the length of the line should be increased.
| Depth of place (m) | Min. line length (m) | Optimum length (m) | Anchor weight (kg) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 6 | 8-10 | 1.5 - 2 |
| 4 | 12 | 15-16 | 2 - 3 |
| 6 | 18 | 20-24 | 3 - 4 |
| 8 | 24 | 30-32 | 4 - 5 |
| 10 | 30 | 40 | 5 - 7 |
As you can see from the table, as the depth increases, the demands on line length grow nonlinearly because of the need to provide a gentle angle of attack. Using a line too short at a deep place is a common mistake of beginners, leading to the failure of the anchor.
What if the anchor is stuck?
If the anchor is sucked into the silt or stuck between the rocks, don't pull the boat at full speed. Try to pick a slack, get as close to the anchor as possible and pull vertically upwards. If there's a second anchor, you can stand perpendicular to the first and select the tension sideways.
Security and Typical Errors
Safety on water is priority number one. The most common mistake is neglect. burst-inAs mentioned, the anchor must break away from the boat in the event of a dead hook, otherwise the boat may sink or overturn, using a line with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm or a string that will burst before the loaded boat overturns.
Another mistake is to use anchors that are too heavy "just in case." Excess weight makes it difficult to lift, especially on the current, and raises the center of gravity of the boat, making it roll. It is easier to lift two small anchors that are stretched than one huge one. Also, do not rely only on anchor in windy weather - always have a plan for going ashore.
- 🚫 Do not wind the anchor molt on your arm or leg - with a sharp jerk, this will lead to injury or drowning.
- 🔪 Always keep a sharp knife on hand to cut a tangled rope.
- 🌊 Consider the tide or change in water level due to hydroelectric power if you are on the river.
Remember that The inflatable boat has zero inertia compared to water.So it will always be willing to stand up in the wind or the current where it will turn, and your job is to use those forces competently, not to fight them.
Can I use a cat anchor for an inflatable boat?
You can use a classic four-legged cat, but with caution, its legs should be bent inward or protected by linings so as not to damage the cylinders when lifting, and it is better to choose models with a hinged joint of the legs that fold into a flat pancake.
Which is better, concrete or lead?
Lead is preferred because of its high density (less volume at the same weight) and inertness to water. Concrete is bulky, absorbs water, collapses over time and can stain clothes and boats with cement dust.
Do I need an anchor on a small river?
Yes, even on a small river, an anchor may be required, especially when fishing on high currents or in windy weather, to avoid being run aground or driftwood.
How to lift the anchor if it is sucked into the silt?
Get as close to the anchor as possible on the boat to pick up a vertical slack. Pull up sharply. If you don't, use the boat as a lever: fasten the slack on your nose, slowly back up, gradually increasing the force, but make sure that the boat doesn't flip over.