Moving a heavy outboard motor, especially if it exceeds 15 horsepower, is often a serious problem for the owner of the boat. To drag a unit weighing 30-40 kilograms on your hands along a rocky shore or across a grassy shore is not only inconvenient, but also traumatic. boat-car Simple but ingenious device on wheels.
This accessory makes it easy to transport the engine from the car to the launching site, significantly reducing the load on the back. Many PVC boat owners mistakenly rely on regular transport wheels, which often come with a bundle, but their efficiency on rough terrain leaves much to be desired. A homemade gurney, made with the weight of your particular engine, will be a reliable assistant for long seasons.
In this article, we will take a closer look at the process of making such a device from available materials, paying special attention to the reliability of the mounts and the geometry of the frame, you will learn what tools you will need, how to calculate the load correctly, and why some ready-made solutions are losing out to self-made structures. Competent approach to assembly It ensures that your motor reaches the water intact, and you save the strength for the fishing.
Why do you need a gurney and whether it is worth doing it yourself?
The main function of the gurney is ergonomics, the outboard motor has a shifted center of gravity, and it is extremely inconvenient to carry it in your hands for long distances. When using a wheel trolley, the load is distributed evenly, and maneuverability allows you to easily bypass obstacles. carriage It becomes not a luxury, but a necessity.
Self-manufacture has a number of advantages over buying finished models, and first, you can tailor the dimensions to a specific model of motor, whether it's lightweight. Yamaha 9.9 heavy-handed Mercury 60Second, the quality of materials in low-end factory variants is often questionable, whereas for yourself you will choose steel of proven thickness, and also the cost of homemade products is usually two to three times lower than the store counterpart.
However, it is worth considering that for one-time trips to the equipped shore with a hard surface, the manufacture of complex construction can be redundant. In such cases, you can limit yourself to a purchase universal model. But if you value reliability and plan to actively operate, a homemade option will be the best solution.
Selection of materials and preparation of tools
The foundation of any quality gurney is a strong frame, and the best fit for its manufacture is a profile tube of square or rectangular cross-section, the best choice is a steel pipe the size of the steel pipe. 20x20 mm or 25x25 mm The use of thinner metal is unacceptable, since vibrations and jerks when moving on irregularities can lead to the destruction of welds or deformation of the frame.
The wheel axis will require a round steel pipe with a diameter of about 20-25 mm, which can withstand the weight of the engine without bending. Wheels are better to choose inflatable, with a diameter of 260 to 300 mm, as they provide better cross-country sand and grass than cast plastic counterparts. mounting-piece (usually used from older motors or made of 4x40 mm strip steel) and bolts with a diameter of at least M8.
The site for the installation of a lower unit (bottom of the engine) is often plywood plywood 15-20 mm thick or a metal plate. The plywood must be treated with olive or painted to protect against moisture. The metal plate is longer-lasting, but heavier. The elements will require bolts, nuts with growers and a welding machine.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling the frame
The assembly process starts with cutting the workpieces according to the drawing. The standard design consists of two vertical pillars, a crossbar for the motor attachment and a lower frame with axle. It is important to observe symmetry so that the trolley does not fall to the side when moving. First, the main rectangular circuit is welded, which will rest on the ground in the folded state.
☑️ Preparation for frame welding
Then you weld the frame with the lower unit stops, and they have to be the height of your engine's lower unit, so that you can move the motor upright, without touching the wheels or the ground, and the angle of tilt of the frame when you're transporting it is usually about 70 to 80 degrees relative to the ground, which ensures that the load is stable.
Pay special attention to the attachment points of the clamps, which should be reinforced with additional metal headscarves, which will be the main load when rocking the trolley. If the clamps are welded to a thin pipe without strengthening, the metal can lead under the weight of heavy weight. Tohatsu or SuzukiAfter welding, all seams must be cleaned with a Bulgarian and covered with anti-corrosion primer.
⚠️ Attention: When welding thin-walled pipes, use a minimum current to avoid burning through the metal. Calcinate the electrodes before working for a quality seam.
Installation of the wheel axle and fasteners
The axis of the wheels is a critical assembly that experiences maximum stress on the kink. Use a single round pipe that passes through the frame or is welded to it from the outside. In the second case, the structure is rigid. The distance between the centers of the wheels should be wider than the widest part of the motor (usually a screw or a lower unit) so that the motor does not hit the ground on the sides when traveling the track.
The easiest way to fix the motor is to weld two vertical plates with bolt holes into which the lower unit is inserted, or to use ready-made clamps. The main condition is that the motor must be rigidly fixed and not hang out. Luft can damage the lower unit frame when driving.
For quick installation of the motor, use quick-removal bolts or nuts-lambs, so as not to look for the keys every time on the shore.
Some of the masters add to the design adjustable-height This is done by drilling a series of holes in vertical racks, which is useful if you have multiple engines of different lengths of lower unit or you plan to carry engines from different manufacturers, but for simplicity of design, most often you make a fixed mount under the same model.
Comparison of wheel types and their impact on passability
Wheel selection has a direct impact on where you can use a gurney. There's little difference on asphalt or hard ground, but fishing conditions are often harsh. Let's look at the main specifications of the different types of wheels in the table below.
| Type of wheel | Diameter (inches) | Permeability | Weight. | Recommended load |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Inflatable (pneumatic) | 10-12 | Tall (sand, grass) | Medium. | 80 kg |
| Cast polyurethane | 8-10 | Medium (gravel, asphalt) | Highly | 100 kg |
| Plastic (with spikes) | 6-8 | Low (hard only) | Low. | 40 kg |
As you can see from the table, large diameter inflatable wheels are the best fit for fishing tasks, they cushion irregularities, which is especially important for preserving the integrity of a lower unit. Cast wheels are good because they can't be pierced, but they can be buried on soft ground. The best choice is wheels with a diameter of 260-300 mm with a camera, designed for garden carts.
When installing the wheels, make sure they have bearings or quality bushings. Cheap plastic bushings quickly break from sand and water, after which the wheel starts to sway and rub against the frame. Regularly lubricate the wheel axis with solidol or lithium lubricant to prevent corrosion.
Refinement and reinforcement of the design
The basic version of the gurney is functional, but it can be improved for greater comfort. For example, welding a small shelf to the bottom of the frame will give you space to store a can of gasoline or a box of tools. This will free up your hands and allow you to carry everything you need at a time. The shelf is better done removable or with sides so that objects do not fall out when moving.
Another useful development is to install stops to prevent the motor from slipping downwards, which can be simple pins or curved edges of the clamps, and also provide space for fastening the datadvut in the raised position, if the gurney design allows it, some anglers weld a hook to the gurney handle for a suspension lock to leave the motor on the shore without the risk of theft.
How do you protect paint on a gurney?
To protect the frame from chipping and scratching, use hammer paint, which creates a durable coating that hides small defects in welding, and is great against stone impacts. Before painting, degrease the surface and apply the soil over rust.
Don't forget the ergonomics of the handle. If you're planning long walks, wrap the upper bar with a tape, shrinkage, or put on rubber handles from your bicycle, which will save your hands from calluses and cold in the off-season. A metal pipe can freeze to your hands in winter, and heat up in the sun in summer.
Frequent errors in manufacturing
When self-assembling, beginners often make mistakes that reduce the life of the product. One of the most common is the savings on metal. Using a 15×15 mm profile pipe with a thin wall for a 40 kg motor will cause the frame to bend with a boat after several trips. Safety margin It should be at least twice as long.
The second mistake is the wrong center of gravity calculation: if the axis of the wheels is too close to the motor, the cart will try to tip over backwards. If too far, you will have to carry the bulk of the weight on your hands, and the meaning of the gurney is lost. The experimentally selected distance is usually 1/3 of the length of the lower unit from the bottom cut.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use only rubber belts for the motor attachment without rigid metal fixation. If you jerk sharply or hit a stone, the belt may burst, and the heavy motor will fall on the screw.
The third mistake is to ignite corrosion protection. The aquatic environment is aggressive, and rust can destroy a homemade gurney in one season. Be sure to use zinc-containing soil and quality enamel. Welded seams are the most vulnerable, and they need to be boiled completely and cleaned thoroughly.
The main secret of a durable gurney is the use of a profile pipe 25x25 mm and inflatable wheels of large diameter.
Questions and Answers (FAQ)
Can I make a gurney for an engine with a capacity of more than 50 hp?
Yes, you can, but such engines (weighing 80-100 kg or more) will require a reinforced design. Use a profile pipe 30x30 mm or 40x20 mm, as well as wheels with increased load capacity (up to 150 kg per pair), It is recommended to add a third support wheel or telescopic rack for stability in the vertical position.
Will a boat with a transom suspension be suitable?
The wheelbarrow is specifically designed to carry a separately removed motor. If you want to carry a boat with the engine without removing it, you will need a special trailer trolley under the boat, since the center of gravity of the boat + engine system will be completely different, and a standard gurney may not withstand the load or turn over.
What is the best wheel diameter for a sandy beach?
The diameter and width of the wheel are critical for sand, the minimum diameter should be 300 mm (12 inches), and the width of the tread should be at least 80-100 mm. Narrow wheels will burrow into the sand, and pulling the cart will become heavier than carrying the motor on your hands.
Do I need to remove the screw before installing on the gurney?
Remove the screw is not necessary if the dimensions of the gurney allow you to place the motor without the screw touching the ground or elements of the frame. However, if you plan long transitions on a hard surface, the screw is better to remove to avoid blunting on the stones or accidental damage during maneuvering.