The end of the navigation period is not just a signal to fold the fishing rods and put the boat in the garage, but also a time for critical maintenance procedures for the power plant. Many owners make the fatal mistake of leaving the equipment βas isβ until spring, without thinking about the fact that it is during the downtime that the most destructive processes occur inside the engine: corrosion, fuel system acidification and degradation of technical fluids β this is what awaits a carefree boating.
Proper preparation for winter storage of the outboard motor can increase its life for years to come, maintaining the factory traction and economy. Ignoring the elementary rules of conservation often leads to expensive repairs in the spring, when instead of fishing you have to restore the knots. In this article, we will discuss all the stages of preparing two-stroke and four-stroke engines for long-term downtime.
It is important to understand that the storage conditions (heated space or unheated garage) dictate their adjustments, but the basic algorithm of actions is the same for all. Quality conservation It starts with the last launch, and ends just before the first launch of the new season. Yamaha, Tohatsu or Mercury They have served faithfully and faithfully for many years.
Preparation of the external part and gearbox
The first step after removing the motor from the water should be a thorough wash. The salt, tin, sand and algae left on the lower unit and anti-cavitation stove are an aggressive environment that continues to destroy the metal even on land. Wash the engine with fresh water, paying special attention to the cooling system and internal channels to remove the remnants of salt water that causes it. galvanic.
After drying, you need to do a visual inspection of the lower unit. Paint chips, scratches and scuffs are open gates for rust. All damaged areas should be cleaned, degreased and painted with anti-corrosion enamel. Pay special attention to anodes: if zinc or aluminum plates have worn more than 50%, they must be replaced, because in the next season they may not protect expensive knots.
β οΈ Warning: Never wash a hot engine with cold water! A sharp temperature difference can cause cylinder heads to deform or microcracks in the block.
Lubrication of external mechanisms is the next important step: all friction points, gas and humming cables, and the rotary mechanism must be treated with a consistent lubrication, which will prevent movable parts from souring and ensure easy control at the beginning of next season. Remember to lubricate the shaft slits before installing the screw.
Special attention is required gearboxMany experts recommend replacing the oil in the gearbox in the fall, before storage, so that there is no emulsion (water + oil) that could get there through the omentums, and if you notice a milky shade on the probe, then the sealing is broken, and you need to replace the omentums.
Conservation of the engine fuel system
The fuel system is the Achilles heel of any internal combustion engine in long-term downtime. Gasoline has the ability to oxidize and break down into fractions, forming a resinous plaque that clogs the jellyfish of a carburetor or injector injector nozzles. For two-stroke engines, the situation is aggravated by the fact that oil mixed with gasoline also loses its properties and can fall into precipitation.
There are two main approaches to fuel system conservation: one is to completely drain the fuel from the tank, hoses and float chamber of the carburetor; the other is to fill the tank with a special preservative or high-octane gasoline and stabilizer, followed by the production of fuel inside the engine until it stops, depending on the type of engine and the manufacturer's recommendations.
For injection systems such as Yamaha FET or Mercury EFIThe addition of an additive to a full tank prevents oxidation and preserves the fuel properties throughout the winter, an empty tank in an injection engine can rust from the inside, and the corrosion products will be fed into an expensive fuel pump.
If you choose a complete drain method, after you've generated the remaining fuel from the carburetor, you need to blow the system with compressed air, which will remove the remaining gasoline that can evaporate, leaving a sticky plaque. In two-stroke engines, it is also recommended to pour a little bit into the cylinders. preservative through the spark plugs and turn the crankshaft to create a protective film on the cylinder mirror.
Use only quality fuel stabilizers from proven brands. Cheap alternatives can contain aggressive components that destroy rubber fuel seals.
Cooling system and corrosion protection
The residues of water in the cooling system are the main cause of freezing and rupturing of pipes or pumps in winter. Even if the motor is stored in heat, the humidity inside the channels contributes to corrosion. After the last wash, allow the motor to dry completely upright. Pulling the system with compressed air through the control vent plug will help remove moisture from hard-to-reach areas.
To protect the interior from corrosion, many water-engines use special aerosol spray preservatives, which are sprayed at the intake when the engine is running at idle speeds (on a barrel or in a reservoir), creating a thin oily film on all internal surfaces, which is especially true for regions with high humidity.
External metal parts, especially if the motor is stored in an unheated room, should be processed. corrosion-proofPay special attention to the places where the motor is attached to the transom, because there is often moisture accumulated there. Aluminum alloys, which are made of most lower units, are subject to oxidation, which looks like white coating.
| Type of node | Materials | Recommended remedy | Frequency of processing |
|---|---|---|---|
| lower unit | Aluminum alloy | Anti-corrosion spray / WD-40 Specialist | Before storage |
| The propeller | Aluminum/Nerge. Steel | Paddleshaft lubricant | Every season. |
| Ignition plugs | Ceramics/Metal | Preservative oil | For the winter. |
| Control cables | Steel/Polymer | Silicone lubricant | Before storage |
β οΈ Warning: Do not use conventional motor oil to preserve external surfaces! it attracts dust and dirt, turning into an abrasive mass that will make maintenance difficult in the spring.
Features of storage of two-stroke and four-stroke engines
Although the basic principles of conservation are similar, there are significant differences in maintenance between two-stroke and four-stroke engines.two-stroke) is simpler structurally, but requires careful treatment of the cylinder-piston group from the soot. The soot left on the pistons and in the exhaust windows is hygroscopic and actively absorbs moisture, causing corrosion.
Four-stroke engines (four-stroke) have a full lubrication system with an oil crankcase. Before wintering, these engines must be replaced with engine oil. Waste oil contains combustion products and acid, which during the winter can eat the crankshaft liners and other rubbing vapors. Fresh oil has a neutral environment and protects parts.
Also in four-stroke engines, it is important to check the condition of the air filter, if it is paper and heavily polluted, it is better to replace it. If foam is washed and soaked with special oil, but not overdo it so that oil vapors do not enter the intake tract during storage. In two-stroke engines, the air filter is usually combined with a carburetor and requires cleaning from oily deposits.
Do I need to take the engine off the boat for the winter?
Removing the motor from the boat is highly recommended. First, it relieves the load on the PVC transom of the boat, preventing deformation. Second, it is easier to maintain and wash the engine upright. Third, it eliminates the risk of theft if the boat is not kept indoors. If it is not possible to remove, ensure that the lower unit is firmly supported so that it does not hang on the transom.
When storing a two-stroke motor in a horizontal position (which is undesirable, but sometimes necessary), make sure that the carburetor is on top, this will prevent the residue of fuel and oil from leaking through the drainage holes.
Storage conditions: temperature and humidity
The ideal place to store a outboard motor is a dry, heated room with a constant temperature, but the reality is that most of the equipment winters in unheated garages, sheds or even under canopies, the main condition is the absence of direct precipitation and sharp temperature changes that cause condensation.
Humidity is the main enemy of electrics and metal surfaces. If the motor is stored in a damp basement or garage, use moisture absorbers. You can place silica gel or calcium chloride tanks next to the motor, which will help reduce local humidity and prevent rust on contacts and fasteners.
The position of the motor in storage also matters, and it's best to store it vertically, on a deidvile stand, or in a special stand, so that the glands are positioned properly and prevents the knots from deforming, and horizontal storage is only allowed on special stands that exclude pressure on the carburetor and exhaust system.
βοΈ Checklist for winter preparations
Preparation of the battery and electricians
The electric part of the motor, especially in models with electric starter and EFI system, requires special attention. The battery is the first candidate for wintering in the heat. Lead-acid batteries do not tolerate deep discharge and negative temperatures in the discharged state.
Remove the battery, clear the terminals of oxides, and put it on a charger with a desulfation or charge maintenance mode. If there is no such device, charge the battery once a month until full saturation. Store the battery at a temperature of at least 0 Β° C, but not in a too hot place.
The contacts on the motor itself, the rummel connectors and sensors, are recommended to be treated with a contact cleaner spray, which will displace moisture and create a protective film to prevent oxidation. Check the integrity of the wire insulation: cracks can lead to a short circuit on the first start.
Properly preserved battery and processed contacts of electricians guarantee a confident start of the engine at the beginning of the season, eliminating the search for reasons of failure of electronics.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I store the outboard motor at sub-zero temperature?
Yes, if you can preserve it properly, the key is to make sure that the cooling system, gearbox and carburetor are water-free, metal parts are not afraid of frost if they are dry and lubricated, plastic in the extreme cold can become brittle, so avoid mechanical impacts on the engine at temperatures below -20 Β°C.
Do I need to remove spark plugs for the winter?
This is recommended, but not strictly required, if you have oiled the cylinders. However, the twisting of candles allows you to visually assess the condition of the cylinder-piston group (bait, bullies) and accurately dose the canning oil. If you do not remove the candles, be sure to make several turns of the crankshaft after pouring the oil.
How often should I start the engine in winter for prevention?
Starting the engine in winter without the need not recommendedShort-term start does not warm the engine to operating temperature, which leads to condensation in the silencer and cylinders, and does not charge the battery fully. It is better to preserve the engine once efficiently and do not touch it until spring.
How to lubricate the propeller and shaft before storage?
Use a special water-resistant lubricant for paddle shafts (usually lithium or disulfide-molybdenum-based). Conventional solidol or litol can wash out or lose properties. Lubrication is applied to the shaft slits before installing the screw to prevent staggering and corrosion.
What to do if water gets into the gearbox?
If the butter in the gearbox is "coffee with milk," it means that the water has gone inside. You need to drain the emulsion completely, rinse the gearbox with solar or special washing oil, replace the glands (if necessary) and pour fresh transmission oil. You can not leave the water in the gearbox for the winter, this will lead to corrosion of the gears.