The approach of cold weather is not only a signal for fishermen to finish the season, but also a critical moment for owners of water equipment. Conservation of the outboard motor 2 bars for winter It is a mandatory procedure, which can lead to costly repairs or complete replacement of the components in the spring. Unlike four-stroke engines, two-stroke engines have their own specifications of lubrication and fuel mixture, requiring special attention during long-term downtime.
An unprepared engine risks piston group acidification, carburetor corrosion and rubber seals collapse. Water left in a water jacket can expand when it freezes and split the cylinder block, which is why preparing for winter storage is not only a matter of saving budget, but also of operating safety next season.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of preparation, the necessary tools and chemicals. preserve The process requires consistency and precision, but it is not too difficult to perform on its own.
Workplace preparation and necessary tools
Before you start to do any technical manipulation, you need to organize a comfortable space, and the best thing to do is to do it in a dry, well-ventilated room or under a canopy, and you need a stable stand that will be mounted on the motor, because it is inconvenient and unsafe to do conservation on the transom of the boat.
To properly prepare a two-stroke engine, you will need a set of basic tools. You should not start working if you do not have the necessary tanks for draining technical fluids and rags.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches and screwdrivers for removing candles and covers.
- 🛢️ Capacity for draining waste oil and old fuel mixture.
- 🧤 Safety gloves and glasses for chemical safety.
- 🧼 A soft bristling brush and solvent for cleaning external surfaces.
Pay special attention to the cleanliness of the working area. Dust and dirt that get into the engine when removing candles or lids can cause abrasive wear of the cylinders. Conservation of the engine It should be carried out in sterile conditions as far as a garage or workshop allows.
⚠️ Warning: Never discharge fuel or oil in the vicinity of an open flame or sparkling appliances, and gasoline vapors are explosive even at low concentrations.
Prepare all supplies in advance. You'll need fresh butter for the gearbox. preservative (spray), new fuel mixture and possibly new spark plugs if the old ones have significant charcoal or production.
Fuel drain and cleaning of the carburetor system
The first and most important step is working with the fuel system, which is that the gasoline left in the winter is prone to oxidation and the formation of resinous deposits that clog the carburetor's jellyfish, and this is especially true for two-stroke engines, because the fuel mixture contains oil that, when gasoline evaporates, leaves a sticky coating.
The process begins with the detachment of the fuel hose from the engine. Let the engine generate the remaining fuel in the float chamber to a complete stop. If the engine does not start on the residues, carefully unscrew the drain screw on the float chamber (if the design pre---WIDGET:spoiler: Why can not leave old gasoline?: Oxidation of gasoline leads to the formation of resins that cement the carburetor needles and jells. Clean them will be extremely difficult in spring, often require complete disassemblying and ultrasonic cleaning of the fuel or liquid replacement).
After the system is completely empty, it is recommended to blow the fuel lines with compressed air, which will remove the smallest drops of the mixture that can evaporate and leave the film, and if your motor is equipped with a fuel filter-sludge, it must be removed, washed in pure gasoline and dried.
To reliably protect the internal channels of the carburetor, experts recommend the use of special aerosols-fuel stabilizers, which are sprayed into the intake manifold and create a protective film that prevents corrosion and sticking parts.
☑️ Checklist of fuel system preparation
Replacement of oil in the gearbox and checking the tightness
The bottom of the outboard motor, the gearbox, is operating in an aggressive aqueous environment, and even a microscopic crack in the omentum can cause water to enter the mechanism, and when it freezes, the water will expand and rupture the body or damage the gears. gear-shift Before wintering is a mandatory point.
Pour the old oil through the bottom drain hole. Carefully examine the leaking fluid. If it is a "coffee with milk" or emulsion color, then the water has already entered, in which case it will require defective omentation and possibly changing the oil several times to dry the node completely.
Pour the new oil from the bottom up until it starts to flow out of the top hole, which ensures that there are no air traffic jams. Use only specialized transmission oils designed for marine gearboxes, as they have the necessary anti-wear and anti-corrosion properties.
| Parameter | Normal. | Signs of malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| The butter | Transparent, amber or greenish | Muddy, white, "coffee with milk" |
| Consistency | Uniform, unswept. | Presence of metal shavings or emulsion |
| Smell. | Specific oily | Smell of burning (overheating) |
| A magnet in traffic. | Minimum powder plaque | Large metal shavings or chips |
After replacing, check the osteoils visually, they should not be cracked, bulldozed or leaky, and grease the sponges with thick lubrication to protect against drying out during downtime.
Conservation of the cylinder-piston group (CPG)
The most vulnerable part of a two-stroke engine is the cylinder-piston group, where the mixture burns, and where it most often corroses when stored in wet conditions. It is critical to create an oil mist inside the cylinder that will cover the cylinder mirror, piston and crankshaft bearings with a protective film.
First, turn the spark plugs out. Through the candle holes, look at the condition of the piston and exhaust windows. If there is not much of the coal, you can leave it, but if there are bullies or heavy deposits, you better clean it up. Then you need to inject the preservative inside.
The ideal solution is to use a special spray-preservative for two-stroke engines (Winterize), which is sprayed into the cylinders in the amount of 3-5 seconds (depending on the volume), after which you need to slowly turn the crankshaft (hand or starter) several times so that the oil is evenly distributed over all surfaces.
If you don't have a special spray, you can use a 1:2 mixture of gasoline and oil for two-stroke engines, but the effectiveness of this method is lower. Pour about 10-15 ml of the mixture into each cylinder and also turn the engine.
The main goal of CPG conservation is the complete displacement of moisture and the creation of a stable oil film on all rubbing surfaces, preventing metal from contact with oxygen and moisture.
After processing, the candles are better to clean or replace with new ones, but screwing them back in for the winter is not recommended to avoid condensation in the threaded joint. Leave the holes closed with clean rags or plugs until spring.
External treatment and corrosion protection
Salt (if operated in the sea or salt lakes), mud and fish mucus are powerful catalysts for corrosion. rinse your lower unit and lower unit foot thoroughly with fresh water using a mild detergent.
After washing and full drying, all metal surfaces that are not coated with paint, anti-corrosion spray should be treated.
- 🛡️ lower unit's foot attachment to the lower unit leg.
- 🔩 Bolt connections and nuts.
- 🚤 Gas control and gear shift cables.
- 🔌 Electrical connectors and contacts (use WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner spray).
For a lower unit leg, which often has chipped paint, you can use special wax polishes for outboard motors, which create a hydrophobic layer that repels water.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use aggressive solvents (acetone, solvent) to clean plastic casings. This will lead to clouding of the plastic and destruction of the material structure.
Rules of storage and transportation
The final step is to properly store the motor, and the motor must be upright so that the residues of oil or preservative do not leak out of the exhaust windows or the sapoons, and it is ideal to store it on a special rack or suspended behind a lower unit.
The storage room should be dry, with minimal temperature changes. The sharp temperature surges cause condensation within the nodes, which negates all conservation efforts. Cover the engine with a breathable cover to protect against dust but leave air.
If the motor is stored on a boat, be sure to remove it from the transom. Prolonged stress on the lower unit can deform the transom board or the lower unit itself.
Common mistakes in winter conservation
Many owners make mistakes that only become apparent in the spring, and one of the most common is to try to "save" the engine by keeping a full volume of fresh gasoline in the tank, which is a mistake, because modern fuels have a limited shelf life even with additives.
Another mistake is ignoring the water pump, which doesn't work in winter, but rubber impellers can "remember" the compressed shape if the motor has been in place for years without moving, and it's recommended to rotate the pump scale manually once every couple of months (if you have access).
Also often forgotten to lubricate the slits of the lower unit. This compound must be abundantly lubricated with lithium lubricant, otherwise by spring, lower unit can "stick" to the lower unit leg, and disassemble them without heating and sledgehammer will be impossible.
Take a picture of the preservation process and the condition of the nodes before assembly, and in the spring, these images will help you remember what parts needed attention or replacement.
Compliance with all stages of preparation ensures that your two-stroke Don't be lazy to waste time on prevention now, so you don't have to spend money on repairs later.
Do I need to take the engine off the boat for the winter?
Yes, it is strongly recommended to remove the engine, storage on the transom puts a strain on the boat's lower unit and trawler, and in addition, in the upright position on the rack, the best drain of condensate and oil residues is ensured, as well as the convenience of access for periodic inspection.
Can the engine be stored at low temperatures?
Yes, you can if you have properly preserved (water drained, oil replaced, cylinders treated), but extreme temperature changes (thaw-freeze) are undesirable, as they cause active condensation within the nodes. Ideally, a stable temperature above 0 ° C, but an unheated dry garage will also work.
How often should you start the engine in winter to warm up?
It is NOT recommended to start the engine in winter without loading (in the air or in a barrel), short-term warming does not have time to warm up the entire engine to operating temperatures, which leads to the accumulation of moisture and acids in the oil, increasing corrosion, better quality preservation and complete rest until spring.
What to do if water gets into the gearbox?
You need to drain the emulsion completely, wash the gearbox several times with a special wash oil or spindle oil, warm the knot (not open fire!) to 50-60 degrees to evaporate moisture, and only then pour fresh oil. If the water gets constantly, you need to replace the ossils.