The onset of cold weather for a water motor is not just an excuse to remove the boat into the garage, but a critical stage, on which the life of the power plant depends directly. Many owners make a fatal mistake, leaving the technique "as is" until spring, unaware that the processes of oxidation and aging of materials continue even at rest. boat-motorization avoids costly repairs of the piston group and fuel system after winter hibernation.
Ignoring the preparatory procedures can lead to the fact that gasoline will turn into a viscous substance that clogged the carburetor, and moisture residue will cause deep corrosion inside the cylinders. Properly carried out procedure takes only a few hours, but saves hundreds of hours of work of the mechanic and significant financial resources. In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of preparing equipment for winter storage.
There is a myth that modern engines do not require special care, but statistics service centers say the opposite: up to 40% of breakdowns at the beginning of the season are associated with improper storage. Four-stroke and two-stroke They have their own nuances, but the basic principles of preparing for winter are the same for them. It is important to approach the process systematically, without missing a single step from the algorithm below.
Essential tools and supplies
Before you start, you need to prepare the workspace and buy consumables, and you don't have to start halfway through the process finding you don't have the right oil or funnel, and you need to have the standard toolkit that every boat owner usually has, plus specific chemical compounds, to do the job well.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice conservatory-oil The use of poor-quality chemicals can negate all efforts, and two-stroke engines also require a special mixture or pure oil to lubricate the cylinders before being stored.
- 🛠️ A set of wrenches and screwdrivers for dismantling candles and access to nodes
- 🧪 Fresh engine oil of the appropriate viscosity (for four-stroke) and oil for the mixture (for two-stroke)
- ⛽ Fuel stabilizer and funnel with filter for safe refueling
- 🧼 Preservation lubrication (spray or thick) for external metal parts
⚠️ Warning: Never use used engine oil to preserve the internal cavities of the engine. It contains acid compounds and wear products that will accelerate corrosion during downtime.
Check for old oil and spent fuel discharge tanks. Environmental safety is a requirement for recycling technical fluids. Prepare a rag that leaves no pile and protective gloves in advance.
Drainage and Fuel Stabilization: Key Stage
The most common cause of launch problems in spring is spoiled gasoline. Modern fuels with environmental additives tend to oxidize and delaminate after 30 days of storage. The gasoline left in the tank and carburetor turns into a resin that clogs the jellyberries.
There are two main strategies for action: complete discharge or stabilization of the fuel, the first option is preferred for long-term storage (more than 3 months), the second is if you plan to occasionally start the engine in the winter or store it for less than 2 months. fuel-system It must be handled correctly.
If you've chosen the stabilization path, add the additive to the gasoline tank, following the proportions specified by the chemical manufacturer. Then start the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes at idle speeds. This is necessary so that the stabilizer-rich mixture gets into all channels. carburetor Or nozzles.
When the fuel is completely drained, it is recommended to develop residues from the float chamber. To do this, close the fuel crane and let the engine run until it stops. In injection systems, it may be necessary to relieve pressure in the ramp through a special valve if the instructions to the pump are model It prescribes a full drain.
Oil Replacement and Lower Maintenance
Replacement of oil in gearbox It's a mandatory procedure that you can't ignore, and even if you change it in the middle of the season, you have to do it again before the winter, and the waste oil contains the wear products of gears and, most dangerously, microscopic particles of water that get through the glands.
The process of replacing the old fluid is simple, but requires care, first unscrew the bottom drain screw, then the top one (air one). After the old liquid is completely drained, wash the gearbox with a small amount of fresh oil if it is milky, which indicates that water is injected.
For four-stroke engines, oil replacement in the crankcase is also mandatory. The acids produced by combustion aggressively affect the crankshaft bearings and cylinder walls during idle time. Leave the motor with new oil to protect the interior parts from oxidation.
☑️ Checklist of reducer maintenance
Anti-corrosion treatment and cylinder protection
Internal engine preservation is what distinguishes professional from amateur: the cylinder mirror and the piston that are left in the air will quickly become rust-covered due to the condensation that comes from the temperature changes, and to prevent this, you need to create a protective film.
Unscrew the spark plugs and pour about 10-15 ml into each cylinder. conservatory-oil Then, make a few turns with the starter (electric) or manually (low power) so that the oil spreads across the walls. Don't screw the candles back in right away, let the excess drain or wipe the cylinders with rags if too much oil is poured.
Can you use regular engine oil to preserve cylinders?
Yes, you can use fresh engine oil that matches your engine type, but special conservatory sprays have better adhesive properties and contain powerful corrosion inhibitors, which is preferable for long wintering.
External processing is also important, especially for motors that will be stored in an unheated room or outdoors. Carefully wash the engine from salt (if operating in the sea) and dirt. After drying, apply a layer of anti-corrosion lubricant to metal surfaces, except for rubber and plastic parts.
⚠️ Warning: Avoid preservative sprays and oils on rubber seals, coils and electrical connectors. Aggressive chemical components can cause rubber to swell and lose leakage.
Storage specifications depending on the type of engine
The approach to conservation depends on the design of your motor. Two-stroke The models require special attention to lubricating the crank-shaking mechanism, because they are lubricated with oil mixed with fuel, and if the fuel evaporates or oxidizes, the rubbing vapors will be left unprotected.
Four-stroke motors have a closed lubrication system, but a more complex valve design and often water-cooled with a thermostat. It is important to make sure that there is no water left in the cooling shirt that can break the cylinder block when frozen, although modern antifreezes and design usually prevent this from happening unless the motor is removed from the transom into ice.
Below is a comparative table of key differences in the preparation of different types of motors:
| Parameter | two-stroke motor | four-stroke engine |
|---|---|---|
| Cylinder lubrication | Be sure to go through the candle hole | Be sure to go through the candle hole |
| Fuel system | Critical (Gicklers are clogged) | Critical (risk of corrosion of nozzles / carburetor) |
| Oil in the gearbox | Change is mandatory. | Change is mandatory. |
| Oil in the crankcase | Missing. | Change before wintering |
Keep the engine upright. If the design does not allow, make sure that this is allowed by the instructions, as some models may disrupt the outflow of oil or get water into the exhaust system.
Storage and packaging conditions
The ideal place to winter a outboard motor is a dry, heated room with a constant temperature, but the reality often dictates storage in garages, sheds or even outside under an awning, the main rule is to protect the equipment from direct precipitation, ultraviolet light and rodents.
Use a special case for the motor that breathes. A plastic film wrapped tightly around the engine will create a greenhouse effect: during the day the condensate will evaporate, and at night it will settle back on the metal, causing corrosion. If you use a cover material, leave the vents.
Take care of protection from rodents who like to chew wires and insulate. Place repellents around the motor or use ultrasonic repellents in the storage room. (regular inspection) the condition of the shelter will also not hurt.
The main enemy of the engine in winter is not cold, but moisture and temperature changes that cause condensation. Dryness and stability are the key to a successful winter.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to close the holes of the muffler and carburetor?
Yes, this is recommended to prevent moisture, dust and insects from entering the engine. Use clean rags or special plugs, but do not seal tightly to ensure minimal ventilation.
How often should I start the engine in winter?
If the engine is properly conserved, it is not necessary to start it in winter, and in fact, short-term starts without full warming up and operating temperatures are harmful, as they contribute to the formation of condensation, it is better to leave it alone until spring.
Can I store the motor horizontally?
Most manufacturers recommend storing the engine strictly vertically, and horizontal storage is possible only in the special transport position indicated in the instructions, so that oil does not get into the combustion chamber or exhaust system.
What to do if an emulsion is found in the gearbox oil?
The presence of a mayonnaise emulsion indicates a violation of the tightness of the ossels. It is not enough to replace the oil - you need to replace the ossels and check the splints of the paddle shaft for production, and operation with such a malfunction will lead to a jamming of the gearbox.