Navigation is complete and the water is sealed off by the first ice, marking the beginning of a dormant period for water transport. Many swimmers mistakenly believe that it is enough to just get the equipment out of the water and put it in the garage before spring, but ignoring the procedures for preparing the power unit for prolonged downtime can lead to serious and costly breakdowns.
Moisture, fuel residues and combustion products are the main enemies of internal mechanics, capable of destroying a piston group or fuel supply system in a matter of months. boat-motorization This is not just a recommendation, but a mandatory technical requirement for the extension of the service life of the unit, and properly carried out work will avoid acidification of moving parts and corrosion, ensuring a confident start at the beginning of the next season.
The preparation process requires a systematic approach and an understanding of the physical and chemical processes that occur inside the engine as temperatures and humidity change, and in this article we will take a detailed look at all the steps from washing the cooling system to sealing the carburetor, so that your technique will last for many years.
Why you should not ignore winter preparations
The engine, left unattended, is aggressively exposed to the environment and internal residues. Gasoline left in the float chamber or fuel lines, eventually oxidizes and turns into a resinous substance. This slurry can seal the jellies and needles dead, resulting in inability to start or unstable operation. carburetor after wintering.
The second critical factor is condensation, and when you have temperature changes inside the tank and the engine, you get water that settles on the metal parts. boat-motorization With the use of corrosion-resistant oils, rust can affect the cylinder walls and crankshaft bearings, and corrosion can occur even in dry rooms if there is moisture left inside the unit.
⚠️ Warning: Trying to start the engine in the spring without prior inspection can lead to a hydraulic shock if water hits the cylinder, or to bullies in the piston group due to lack of lubrication.
In addition, the water in the cooling system, when it freezes, expands and can break the cylinder block or damage the impeller pump, which is why completely removing the liquid from the cooling circuit is a priority before storage, and ignoring this stage often causes major repairs.
Required tools and materials
To do the job well, you'll need to prepare a set of supplies and tools in advance, and you don't have to rely on everything you need when you start, because the lack of even small parts can delay the process.
- ⚙️ Fresh engine oil of the appropriate viscosity and a new oil filter (for four-stroke models).
- ⛽ Fuel stabilizer or special conservation oil for the fuel system.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches, screwdrivers and candle key.
- 🧴 Lubricant-spray (WD-40 or analogues) and thick lubricant for bearings.
- 🧼 Waste oil discharge capacity and washing capacity.
Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the liquids used. Cheap analogues of oils may not have the necessary anti-corrosion properties, which will negate all efforts to reduce the risk of corrosion. boat-motorizationIt is also recommended to have rags on hand, which absorbs oil well, and gloves to protect your hands.
If you own it. two-strokeYou may also need a syringe or a pear to pump oil into the cylinders through candle holes. For four-stroke units, it is critical to have a long-nose funnel for a convenient change of oil in the gearbox.
Primary cleaning and washing of the cooling system
The first step should always be a thorough washing of the external surfaces and washing of the cooling system. Salt, silt, algae and sand, trapped inside, are abrasives and catalysts for corrosion. The engine should be washed with fresh water, connecting it to a barrel or water supply through special connections or using an adapter to the screw.
Let the engine run at idle speeds for 5-10 minutes so that the water is fully circulated through the system and washed away all contamination. During the flushing process, carefully inspect the water control hole: the jet should be flat and powerful. If the pressure is weak, you may need to replace the impeller of the water pump or clean the thermostat.
Use warm water for washing - this will help to dissolve salt deposits more effectively, especially if the motor was operated in sea water.
When the engine stops, you need to let the water drain completely, and for this, the motor is recommended to be slightly tilted in different directions to remove the remaining fluid from the channels. Full drainage is the key to preventing water from freezing and rupturing parts in the case of negative temperatures.
Replacement of technical fluids and fuel system
One of the most important steps is to change the oil. Used oil contains wear products and acid compounds that can erode engine parts during the winter. For four-stroke engines, replace the oil in the crankcase, as well as in the gearbox, even if the motorcycle clock has not yet required replacement. For two-stroke engines, it is important to drain the remnants of the fuel mixture from the tank.
The fuel system requires a special approach. The remaining gasoline loses its properties and turns into varnish. You either have to completely decompose the fuel or add it to the tank. stabilizer And let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, so that the mixture can go through the system, and then the engine must be made dry (for carburetor models) or left filled with stabilized fuel (for injections, following the manufacturer's instructions).
| Type of engine | Fuel action | The action with butter | Candles. |
|---|---|---|---|
| two-stroke | Pour the mixture or develop | Put it in the cylinders. | Twisting and canning |
| four-stroke | Add a stabilizer. | Replace in the cartridge | Clean and install |
| Injector | Leave it with the stabilizer. | Replace the filter and oil | Clearance check |
Don't forget to lubricate the gas control cables and gear shifts, as well as the slit joints. The thick lubricant will protect them from moisture and ensure that they are easy to run in the spring. Check the condition of the lower unit bearing and add lubrication if necessary.
Conservation of the cylinder-piston group
To prevent corrosion of cylinder walls and piston rings, you need to create an oil mist inside the engine. To do this, twist the spark plugs. In two-stroke engines, pour about 20-30 ml of special conservation oil or a mixture of oil and gasoline through candle holes. In four-stroke engines, oil is poured directly into the cylinder.
After pouring the oil, you need to slowly turn the crankshaft several times, this can be done manually by rotating the propeller (removing the stopper beforehand), or by a starter (short-term inclusions), the main thing is to distribute the oil film over the entire surface of the cylinder, then the candles should be turned back, but not tightened to the end to create pressure when scrolling, or simply close the holes with a rag.
⚠️ Warning: When scrolling the engine with a starter, be sure to turn off the ignition coil or remove the caps from the candles to avoid sparking and ignition of fuel vapors.
The spark plugs themselves also require maintenance, clean them from the stain with a metal brush, check the gap and canned by dipping in oil, or replace them with new ones before wintering, and store the candles separately, wrapped in rags.
Do I need to remove the motor from the transom?
Removing the engine from the boat for the winter is recommended, not only will the transom be free of load, but also will conduct an audit of the lower unit pipe and anti-cavitation stove, and storage in an upright position in a warm room is preferable for glands.
Storage and positioning rules
The correct position of the motor during storage is crucial in the preservation of the osteoils and seals. The motor must be strictly upright. Bending or storing it lying down can lead to oil leaking into unintended cavities and drying cuffs.
The ideal storage space is a dry, heated room with a constant temperature, and if this is not possible, and the engine winters outside or in an unheated garage, it should be covered with a breathable case. Plastic film is not suitable, because it creates a greenhouse effect and contributes to the formation of condensation.
☑️ Final pre-storage check
It is recommended to check the condition of the motor periodically, once a month, especially if it is in conditions of high humidity, make sure that rust does not appear on metal surfaces, and if necessary, wipe them with rags moistened with oil.
Vertical position and absence of humidity drops are two main factors that preserve the resource of the osteoils and prevent corrosion of electronics.
Frequent errors in the preparation of equipment
When you look at the breakdown statistics after winter, you can see a number of common mistakes that owners make: often, engines are left with a full tank of regular gasoline without a stabilizer, which is guaranteed to lead to problems with starting. Another common mistake is keeping the engine horizontally, which is detrimental to lower unit.
Some users forget to lubricate the outer metal surfaces with silicone lubrication, resulting in chrome parts and aluminum alloys being covered with white oxide coating by spring, and often overlooking the need to replace the oil in the gearbox, which could have been absorbed by water through worn-out glands.
⚠️ Warning: Never store the motor near open fire sources or heaters, especially if there is fuel left in the system, gasoline vapors are heavier than air and can accumulate in lowlands, creating an explosive mixture.
Avoid using aggressive chemicals to wash the engine. Acid and alkaline products can damage rubber seals and paint coatings. Use only specialized cleaners or regular water with a mild detergent.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Do I need to completely drain the fuel from the tank and carburetor?
For two-stroke carburetor engines, it is recommended to run out of fuel completely or drain it, as the old fuel loses its properties. For injection systems and four-stroke engines, modern instructions often advise leaving the tank full with the addition of a stabilizer to prevent condensation on the walls of the tank.
How often should I start the engine in winter for prevention?
Experts do not recommend starting a canned engine in the winter without real need. Short start does not warm the engine to operating temperature, which leads to the formation of a large amount of condensation inside the exhaust system and crankcase, accelerating corrosion.
Can the engine be stored at low temperatures?
Yes, you can, if you do the right thing. boat-motorizationThe main thing is that the cooling system and the crankcase are not water and oil is replaced with fresh, sharp temperature changes are more dangerous than stable frost.
Do I need to remove the battery from the outboard motor?
If your motor has an electric starter and a battery pack, it should be removed; the battery should be stored in a cool (but not freezing) place, pre-charged fully. Once a month, the battery is recommended to recharge.