A homemade aluminum boat is a great start for fishing or relaxing on the water, but the standard equipment often leaves much to be desired. aluminum-boat And that's why installing a full-fledged console is the first step to real comfort on the water.
Building a steering console yourself not only saves you a lot of money, but also perfectly adapts the pilot's landing to your anthropometric data. Unlike the general-purpose purchase solutions, you determine the angle of inclination of the dashboard and the location of the tumblers. small-seaEvery centimeter of the area is worth its weight in gold.
In this article, we will discuss all the stages of creating a reliable design, from the selection of materials to the final sealing of the wiring. You will learn how to correctly calculate the load on the transom so as not to disturb the centering, and what tools are really necessary to work with the wiring. aluminum-profileGet ready to turn your simple "kazak" into a full-fledged boat.
Selection of materials and tools for construction
The basis of any quality homemade is the right materials. For an aluminum boat, it is strongly recommended not to use conventional plywood or steel, as they are prone to corrosion and rotting in an aggressive aquatic environment. sea-aluminum (AMG or analogue) with a thickness of at least 3 mm, which will provide the necessary rigidity and durability.
For the front of the panel, where the appliances will be attached, plastic or composite materials are often used, but the frame must be metal, and you will need high-quality stainless steel for the fastener to avoid electrochemical corrosion when different metals come into contact. It is important to choose sealed materials for insulation, because water will find any gap.
Use only stainless fasteners (A2 or A4) and be sure to apply insulating pads between aluminum and steel to prevent galvanic corrosion.
The list of tools required includes not only the standard set of home craftsmen, but also specific tools for working with metal. Without them, it will be extremely difficult to create a neat and durable design, and the result can be disappointing.
- 🛠️ A grinding machine with metal discs and petal circles for cleaning the seams.
- 🔩 A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills for metal and a zenker for secret hats.
- 📏 Roulette, coal mine and core for accurate marking of holes for devices.
- 🔌 A set of tools for electrical installation: stripper, crimping mites and soldering iron.
⚠️ Note: When welding aluminum, use argon (TIG), as conventional arc welding can burn through thin metal or create brittle seams that burst on the wave.
Design and construction of drawings
Before you cut metal, you have to make a detailed drawing. A boat console is not just a box of holes, but an element that affects aerodynamics and ergonomics. An incorrectly calculated angle of inclination of the windshield can create sailing or, conversely, blind the pilot with glare from the water. Preliminary draft This will help to avoid costly mistakes.
Start by measuring the dimensions. The width of the console is usually limited by the width of the cockpit, but it should not interfere with the passage to the nose or the side. The height is individually selected: when sitting, the hands should be free to lie on the tiller or steering wheel, without requiring the shoulder lift. aluminum-boat It is also important to take into account the height of the plantain so that the structure is securely attached.
When designing, consider the location of the navigation devices, the sonar, the GPS and the sensors should be positioned so that they can be seen in any position of the body on the wave, often making a small visor that protects the screens from direct sunlight and splashes.
Optimal dimensions
The width of the console is 60-80 cm, the height of the working surface is 40-50 cm, the angle of inclination of the instrument panel is 15-20 degrees for better readability.
Manufacture of the frame and mounting panel
The fabrication process starts with cutting the sheet aluminum from your drawings. You can use a profile pipe or corner for the frame, but it is easier and more reliable to bend the sides from a single sheet or weld a box from strips. Strength of construction Priority number one, as vibration from the motor will quickly destroy weak connections.
The mounting panel that the instruments are slamming into must be removable, so that you can maintain the equipment or replace it without removing the entire console, so that the frame is made in the form of a U-frame, and the panel itself is attached to the bolts on the inside. makeshift-boatwhere access to the back side may be restricted.
When building the frame, be careful of the geometry. All angles must be straight, otherwise the windshield will be curved and the appliances will look sloppy. Welds must be cleaned and polished, after which it is recommended to conduct anodizing or high-quality painting.
- ⚙️ Cut the sidewalls and the lower platform according to the dimensions in the drawing.
- 🔨 Cook or crypt the main box, reinforcing the corners with scarves.
- 📐 Mark and cut holes under the steering gearbox and appliances.
- 🎨 Treat the surface with a primer for non-ferrous metals.
⚠️ Attention: Sharp edges of aluminum after cutting are extremely dangerous. Be sure to remove the chamfers and grind all the faces so as not to cut during installation or operation.
Windscreen installation and spray protection
Windscreen is an important safety and comfort feature, not only protecting against the oncoming airflow, but also saving the face from flying insects and splashes. For a homemade console, it is best to use a 4-6 mm thick, transparent polycarbonate or Plexiglas (acrylic), which is easily processed and highly impact-resistant.
Glass fastening should be reliable, but elastic. Aluminum and plastic have different thermal expansion coefficients, so rigid fixation with screws without rubber pads will lead to cracks. Ideally, use a special aluminum profile with a rubber seal that is sold for boat windows.
The glass can be any shape, but the most functional is a V-shaped or slightly curved shape that pulls water to the sides. Straight vertical glass creates more resistance and noise. When installed, make sure that the top edge is above the eye level of the seated operator.
Use polycarbonate instead of regular glass – it is 200 times stronger and will not break when a wave or object hits.
Installation of electrical equipment and instrument panel
The hardest part is the electrical work, and the console becomes the center of the power system of the boat, so the installation quality is very high, and all the wires must be stacked in corrugated hoses or cable channels to protect them from rubbing and ultraviolet light. Use only copper multicore wires with a cross section corresponding to the load current.
Toggles, fuses and indicators are installed on the panel. For ease of maintenance, it is recommended to mount a separate one. switchboard And inside the console, where all the lines from the motor, running lights and pumps come in, that will allow you to quickly find a malfunction without the vertebrae of the entire boat.
All the holes in the instrument panels must be carefully sealed with silicone sealant or special rubber cuffs, and water must not get inside the console housing where the contacts and electronics are.
Below is a table of recommended wire sections for different power consumers on the boat:
| Consumer | Max. Current (A) | Recommended section (mm2) | Type of fuse |
|---|---|---|---|
| Navigator/Earthrower | 2-5 | 1.5 | 5 A |
| Side lights | 5-10 | 2.5 | 10 A |
| Pump (pump) | 10-15 | 4.0 | 15 A |
| Charging the battery | 20-30 | 6.0 | 30 A |
☑️ Electrical checks
Mounting the console to the boat hull
Final stage - installation of the finished product on aluminum-boatThe mounting must withstand not only the weight of the structure, but also the dynamic loads when hitting a wave. Usually the console is fixed to the floorboard (floor) or directly to the sides through reinforced brackets.
If the boat has a flat bottom, you can screw the console through rubber shock absorbers, which will reduce the vibration transmission to the instruments. In the case of cider boats, the mount is often made to longitudinal rigidity beams, which ensures maximum strength.
It is important not to overload the transom or stern if the console is massive. The shift of the center of gravity can adversely affect the driving performance. After installation, be sure to test the launch at a safe depth, checking the reliability of all mounts and the absence of leaks.
⚠️ Warning: Do not attach the console to a sealant or glue only. Mechanical connection with bolts or rivets is mandatory for safety.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What thickness of aluminum is best for a frame?
For the frame of the console is optimal thickness 2-3 mm. a smaller thickness (1.5 mm) may not be rigid enough for large structures, and a thicker sheet (4 mm +) will significantly weight the boat without much need.
Can I use regular car wiring?
Technically possible, but not recommended: Car insulation may not withstand prolonged exposure to salt water and ultraviolet light, it is better to use specialized marine cable or double-insulated wires.
Do I need to paint the console from the inside?
Even if the inside is dry, condensate can cause corrosion, so that the interior surfaces are treated with soil or painted to extend the life of the product.
How to protect the devices from vibration?
Use rubber dampers when attaching the appliances themselves to the panel, and a porous material gasket between the panel and the console body will also help.