Buying an inflatable vessel is just the first step in the world of boating recreation, and over time, every owner comes to the conclusion that the basic equipment consisting of two benches and a transompane becomes insufficient. boat-sideIt's a solution that transforms a simple rubber band into a fully ergonomic, small-scale water transport that fundamentally changes the way we go fishing and cruising, freeing our hands and ensuring that navigational devices are fixed.
A well-designed console allows steering and instrumentation to be brought to the eye level of the operator, which is especially important when driving the engine through a remote tube-to-tether or electric drive. However, before taking up the saw and glue, you need to carefully think about the design so as not to disturb the balance of the vessel and keep it unsinkable. In this article, we will discuss all the stages of creating and installing the control post, from the selection of materials to the finishing.
The problem is that the inflatable sides are not rigid supports, like in boats made of aluminum or fiberglass. control-console It should be attached to either the plyol floor, or the transom board, or have its own inflatable support. Incorrect calculation of the center of gravity can cause the boat's nose to burrow into a wave, or, conversely, the transmolator will begin to rise, reducing the efficiency of planing.
Before we go into design, it's important to decide on the functionality: Will it be just a sounder stand, or a full-fledged remote control with room for batteries and gas tanks? Inflatable boat It is extremely sensitive to overload, so every gram of the console weight should be justified.
Selection of materials for the manufacture of the control post
The first thing to decide on is the material of the frame, and the traditional and most affordable option is plywood, but it's not the most durable choice for the aquatic environment unless it's perfectly protected. sea-aluminum Or composite materials that are not afraid of moisture and ultraviolet, and the weight of the structure is crucial, because the installation of a heavy fast will require a review of the boat's carrying capacity.
If you are staying on a wooden basis, use only moisture-resistant plywood of the brand FSF with a thickness of at least 10-12 mm. The thin material may not withstand the vibration of the engine and the weight of the equipment, which will lead to the destruction of the structure on the water. For aluminum profiles, the optimal wall thickness should be at least 2 mm to ensure rigidity when fastening the steering mechanism.
- 🛠️ FSF phanera - Budget option, requiring thorough impregnation with epoxy resin and pasting with fiberglass.
- ⚙️ Aluminum profile Lightweight, durable, does not rot, but requires special tools for processing and connection.
- 🧱 Composite panels Modern material, combining the lightness of plastic and the strength of metal, is ideal for marine conditions.
You have to pay special attention to the coating, even the best quality. sea-aluminum It can be subjected to electrochemical corrosion when in contact with salt water, if you do not use anode protection or special varnishes. For wooden structures, multilayer treatment is required: impregnation with antiseptic, coating with epoxy soil and finishing layer of polyurethane varnish or paint for yachts.
Use a foamed PVC (compact panel) for the console’s bezels – it is easy to cut, is not afraid of water and looks aesthetically pleasing without additional paint.
Metal can get very hot in the heat, and cool in the cold, so it's better to finish the contact areas with your hands with plastic or rubber, which is a small thing that greatly improves the comfort of operation in the field.
Design of design and drawings
Creating a sketch is a stage where you can not save time. Boat console The standard height of the remote usually varies from 40 to 60 cm, which allows you to comfortably control one hand, holding a fishing rod or binoculars in the other. The width of the base depends on the type of boat: for narrow-hull models, 30-40 cm is optimal, for wide ones - up to 60 cm.
When designing, consider the angle of inclination of the top panel. If you plan to use the solar screens of navigators, the panel is better made horizontal or with a slight tilt back. If the emphasis is on reading the readings of the instruments, the slope of 15-20 degrees to the operator will be most ergonomic. Consolidation drawing It should provide internal partitions to increase rigidity, especially if the structure is high.
Do not forget to provide cable channels. Wiring from the sonar sensor, GPS antenna and battery should be hidden inside the hull, to eliminate the risk of catching it when moving on the boat. The output of the wires should be sealed, it is desirable to use special sea connectors or osluga inputs.
| Parameter | Optimal value | Minimum value | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|
| Remote height | 50 cm | 35 cm | Depends on the operator's growth |
| Breadth of base | 40-50 cm | 30cm | For stability on floorboard |
| Panel angle | 15-20° | 0° (horizontal) | For screen readability |
| Structure weight | 3-5 kg | - | Without regard to equipment |
When designing, think of a windscreen, a transparent plastic (plexiglas or polycarbonate) mounted on the front of the console will save the face from oncoming airflow and splashes at speed, especially for boats that are speeding more than 30 km / h.
How do you calculate the center of gravity?
To calculate the CG, add the weight of all the elements (console + equipment) and multiply by the distance from the transom, then divide by the total mass. Shifting the CG forward by more than 15% of the boat's length can impair driving performance.
Instructions for assembly and installation
The assembly process begins with cutting materials according to the drawings prepared. If you work with plywood, all the ends should be perfectly cleaned and glued, because it is through them that moisture penetrates into the most quickly, and it is better to assemble on stainless screws using water-resistant glue (for example, polyurethane or epoxy) that will fill all the microslits.
Mounting the finished structure to the floor of the boat is the most critical moment. You can't just screw the console to the floorboard, because when you move along the wave, there are significant dynamic loads. The anchorage system It's supposed to spread the weight and force of the jerks over a large area, and it's often used to stick the console to the floorboard with additional straps attached through special rings on the sides.
If your boat has a hard floor (NDH or aluminum floorboard), you can use a bolt connection, but be sure to use wide washers or response plates from below, so as not to push the floor material. In the case of an inflatable floor, the only option is sticking to the floorboard or using a separate inflatable support, which is included in some console models.
☑️ Checklist of installation
After the physical installation, the electrical phase begins: all wire connections must be soldered and insulated with adhesive heat shrinkage. Conventional insulation on water will quickly become unusable. Use fuses installed in the immediate vicinity of the power source to protect the wiring from short circuits to connect to the battery.
⚠️ Warning: Never attach the console to the inflatable cylinder of the boat! This will lead to deformation of the cylinder, violation of the geometry of the vessel and possible rupture of the material under load.
Protecting equipment from water and vibration
Water is not only aggressive to the body materials, but also to electronics, and even devices with declared IPX7 waterproofing can fail if they are exposed to long-term conditions of high humidity and salt mist. boat-side It should provide additional protection for expensive gadgets.
The ideal solution is to create sealed niches with transparent covers or use protective covers that can be quickly thrown when you stop. However, the most effective method is the correct organization of the interior space. The devices should not lie in a puddle, even if the console is closed. The drainage holes at the bottom of the electronics compartment will allow water to leak out if it does get in.
- 🌊 Silicone sealant Use neutral silicone to seal all joints and wire inputs, it remains elastic in the cold.
- 🔌 Sea outlets Install connectors with a protection index not lower than IP65 for connecting external devices.
- 🧽 Moisture absorbers Place silica gel bags inside the closed compartments to prevent electronics from fogging.
Vibration is the second enemy of electronics. The internal combustion engine creates high-frequency vibrations that can break the soldering inside the appliances or loosen the mounts. Use vibratory insulation pads made of porous rubber or special foam under the base of sonars and navigators, which will prolong the life of your devices.
Sealing is not a one-off action, but a process. Check the status of silicone seams and seals at the beginning and end of each season, updating them when cracks appear.
Ergonomics and equipment placement
The location of the instruments on the panel must follow the logic of use, and the most important data (speed, revolution, depth) must be in the line of sight of the operator without the need to bend or turn his head. Steering wheel. or the control tube should be located so that the hand lies on them naturally, without unnecessary tension in the shoulder joint.
Often owners make the mistake of placing the battery inside the console without access. This is a gross mistake: the battery requires ventilation (especially acid batteries) and periodic maintenance or replacement. It is better to take the battery in a separate sealed box to the bottom of the boat, leaving only the terminals or power connector for quick change.
Think of the little things. Having a small shelf or a recess for a phone, keys or fishing gear will make the boat much more enjoyable, but make sure that the niches don't get water and the items that lie there don't roll around the boat when rolling.
⚠️ Warning: Do not place the GPS antenna in close proximity to a running motor or high-voltage wires. Magnetic fields and sparking can interfere, reducing positioning accuracy.
Maintenance and care of installed console
After installation console Regular maintenance will extend the life of both the structure and the equipment installed, and after each release, especially in salt water, you need to wipe the console with fresh water, removing the salt plaque, which accelerates the corrosion of metals and destroys the lacquer coating of the wood.
Once a season, you have to audit the fasteners. Vibration has the ability to unwind even the most reliable connections. Check the tightening of the bolts, the condition of the adhesive joints and the integrity of the wire insulation. If you notice a blurring of the varnish or bloating of paint on the wooden elements, immediately clean this area and cover with a new layer of protection.
Winter storage also has its own peculiarities: remove all electronics and put them in a warm dry place, and the console itself, if it is removable, is better dismantled and stored horizontally to avoid deformation under its own weight or the weight of other items.
How do I wash the console?
Use only a soft sponge and special care products for boat plastic or wood. Aggressive chemistry (acetone, gasoline, solvents) can damage the coating and make the plastic matte or sticky.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install a console on a boat without a hard floor?
Technically possible, but it would require a special inflatable platform or frame that rests on the sides, but this design would be less stable and can shift in sharp maneuvers, while it is more reliable to use boats with floorboard floors (NDH or aluminum) to install a full control post.
How much weight will a standard console withstand?
Homemade fan console