Operation of an inflatable vessel, whether it is a compact rowing model or a serious one PVC frigate It's always a bit uncomfortable, but standard inflatable cans are slippery, and plywood slate gets wet and rotten and heavy, and that's why many water-engineers come to the idea of making an EVA mat into a boat DIY to ensure their comfort and safety.
Materials EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) It is a foamed ethylene vinyl acetate that has unique properties: it does not absorb water, does not rot, is perfectly cushioned and retains heat even in the cold season. Creating a full-fledged coating for the cockpit on your own allows you not only to save a significant amount compared to buying ready-made kits, but also to perfectly fit the geometry to a specific model of the boat.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the entire process, from the choice of material density to the final edge edge edges. eva mats The gold standard of comfort on the water, and get a step-by-step algorithm of actions that will turn your boat into a cozy space for fishing or relaxing.
Selection of material and preparation of tools
The first step is always to purchase raw materials. There are many options on the market, but to create a quality floor in the boat, it is important to pay attention to the density and thickness of the sheet. The optimal choice is a material with a thickness of 10 mm, as it provides sufficient cushioning and thermal insulation. Thinner sheets (6-8 mm) can quickly be wiped or forged under the weight of equipment, and too thick (12 mm or more) will take up useful space in the cockpit.
The most important parameter is the density of the material, which is measured in kg / m3. For boat floors, EVA is best suited with a density of 180 to 220 kg / m3. Less dense versions are too soft and can be deformed, and excessively rigid sheets will be difficult to cut and glue. antibacterial, which prevents the reproduction of microorganisms and the appearance of an unpleasant smell of dampness.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use a low-density construction "tourist" foam to create a floor into the boat. It will quickly gain water through the micropores when in constant contact with the damp bottom and lose its thermal insulation properties.
In addition to the material itself, you'll need a specialized toolkit. To mark and cut, you need a sharp knife, preferably with replaceable blades, because a blunt tool will tear the structure of the foam. To glue the elements together, you'll need glue specifically designed for foam materials, or polyurethane compounds. Don't forget about a roulette, marker, metal ruler and possibly a grinder or sandpaper for processing the ends.
Measurement and layout design
Before you pick up a knife, you need to create a precise design of your future floor, and even one model boat can have individual fitting specifications of cylinders, so taking measurements directly from your boat is a must, and the easiest way to do this is by spreading out sheets of paper on the bottom (you can use old wallpaper or packaging paper) and encircling the contours of the interior space.
When designing, it is important to take into account all irregularities, cutouts for keys, mounting of cans and transom arc. EVA mat It should be snugly adjacent to the surface, but not resting on the cylinders with tension, so as not to create points of excessive pressure. It is recommended to make small gaps of 2-3 mm around the perimeter, since the material can change size slightly with temperature changes.
There are two basic approaches to layout: a single sheet or a multi-piece setup. A whole sheet looks more aesthetically pleasing and has no joints where dirt can be stuffed, but it is more difficult to transport and store. A 2-4-piece setup is more practical for small car owners, as it allows you to fold the coating into the trunk.
How do you make it easier to measure?
Use paint tape. Put a strip of scotch cross-over on the bottom of the boat, right on top of the cylinders (neatly, without a strong press), create a "web." Then, directly on the scotch marker, draw the outlines of the desired area, cut this pattern with scissors and transfer it to the EVA sheet. This is faster and more accurate than messing with large sheets of paper in the wind.
Technology of cutting the sheets of EVA
The cutting process requires precision and a firm hand. Put a sheet of material on a flat, hard surface — it's best to use a sheet of plywood or chipboard to avoid damaging the floor or table. Move the contours from the paper pattern to the EVA using a marker. For straight lines, a metal ruler is indispensable, and complex curvilinear sections are best cut by hand, constantly monitoring the angle of the knife.
The knife should be pointed strictly perpendicular to the surface or with a minimum inclination, so that the cut is smooth, without "blockage." If you make a composite floor, the joints of adjacent parts should be perfectly smooth. Any flaws when cut will lead to the formation of gaps into which water and sand will fall, which over time can disrupt the geometry of the entire coating.
- ✂️ Use only new blades for the final cut so that the edges are smooth.
- 📏 Make allowances of 1-2 cm on difficult areas, which can then be trimmed in place in the boat.
- 🔄 For symmetrical elements (e.g., left and starboard), use one side as a template for the other.
If you boat-floor It involves the presence of technological holes (water drains or fasteners), they are better cut after preliminary fitting in the boat. Map the centers of the holes when the material is already in place, and then cut out. This will eliminate the error of several centimeters that can occur when you move the dimensions from the drawing.
Sticking elements and creating joints
If you've chosen a modular design or you need to build up a sheet, you can't do without gluing. EVA is best suited for polyurethane-based adhesives or specialty foam formulations (often labeled as EVA glue or sneaker soles). A conventional "moment" or PVA is not suitable here, as they can eat the structure of the foam or not provide the proper elasticity of the seam.
The gluing technology is simple, but it requires time intervals, a thin layer of glue on both surfaces that are glued, and then you have to wait a certain time (usually 10 to 20 minutes, according to the tube instructions) until the glue stops sticking to your fingers, but still sticky, and then the surfaces are tightly pressed against each other.
Type of connection Recommended glue Drying Time Stitch strength (direct) Polyurethane joint (Desmocoll and analogues) 24 hours to full load High Skip (wedge) Special glue for EVA (88 series) 12-18 hours Medium swagger (not recommended) Any contact 24 hours Low (step interferes)For maximum strength and aesthetics, joints are often made with a bevel (at an angle of 45 degrees), although for the floor in the boat, where the tightness of the lower layer is important, a direct joint with a tight fit of the ends is often preferable. The main thing is to ensure that there is no gap. After gluing, it is desirable to press the joint with a load or use a roller to roll the seams.
☑️ Verification of gluing quality
Edge treatment and finishing
A fresh slice of EVA material has a porous structure that can eventually crumble or accumulate dirt. To prolong the life of your coating, the edges need to be treated. The easiest way is to gently scorch the edges with a building hairdryer or lighter (at a distance) so that the melted layer seals the pores. However, this method requires skill to avoid blackening the material.
A more professional approach is to use a edging, where thin strips of the same EVA or a special PVC canopy are glued around the perimeter of the mat, which not only protects the end, but also gives the product a finished, factory-like appearance. You can also use the method of grinding the ends with fine-grained sandpaper, creating a soft, rounded profile that is pleasant to the touch.
An important element of finishing is to create an anti-slip relief if you use a smooth sheet. Although the EVA material itself has good friction properties, the extra texture won't hurt, especially if you plan to fish in the rain. The relief can be applied with special stamps or simply make notches with a knife in the form of diamonds or scales.
To clean the porous slices of EVA from dust and crumbs after cutting, use a rigid shoe brush. It perfectly sweeps the contamination from the structure of the foam without damaging it.
Styling and features of operation
Ready. eva carpet It's placed directly on the bottom of the boat, or on plywood slate, if you have one, and because of the cellular structure of the material, the water flows freely down to the lowest point of the cockpit, where it's easy to remove it with a sponge or just flip the boat, and it doesn't absorb moisture, so after fishing, it's enough to rinse with clean water and dry it.
When stored in winter, it is not recommended to roll the mats into tight rolls or leave them under heavy loads in a compressed state. Although EVA has a shape memory, prolonged deformation can lead to clatters that will stretch for a very long time.
The coating is minimally maintained and it is recommended to wash it periodically, once a season, using a mild soap solution. Aggressive chemicals, solvents and gasoline can destroy the structure of ethylene vinyl acetate, making it sticky and brittle. Avoid contact with open fire and sparks from the engine, as the material is combustible.
Properly made and laid EVA mat lasts 5-7 years, retaining its properties even when used in salt water and under direct sunlight.
The advantages of self-manufacture
Doing. EVA mat in the boat You get a product that's often better than the store, you control the density, the thickness and the configuration, and you save a lot of money, and you can cost 2 to 3 times more than the cost of the materials you've used to make it yourself.
In addition to the utilitarian benefits, it improves safety: you stand confidently on your feet, even when the boat is rocking on the wave; the warm floor allows you to fish in early spring and late autumn without the risk of hypothermia, which is especially important for the health of the legs and back. A homemade product is the pride of the owner and a real step towards improving the ergonomics of the boat.
- 💰 Budget savings of up to 60% compared to ready-made solutions.
- 🎯 The perfect geometry that replicates the contours of your boat.
- 🛠 The ability to combine colors and create a unique design.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use EVA with regular PVC glue?
No, it's not recommended. PVC adhesives work on a different chemical principle, dissolving the surface. EVA is an inert material, and a standard boat adhesive may simply not grasp or break the structure of the foam. Use only specialized compounds for EVA or polyurethane adhesives.
Do I need to remove the EVA film before laying?
Yes, it will. New sheets often have a protective plastic film, if you don't remove it, the adhesives won't hold, and the material will slide, and before you open it, make sure that the film is removed from all sides.
How long does the glue on EVA dry?
The primary polymerization (snatching) time is 15 minutes to 1 hour depending on temperature and humidity. Full strength is gained after 24 hours. You don't have to operate the boat immediately after gluing, let the seams get fully strong.
Can I paint EVA mats?
The usual paints on EVA don't hold and crack when deformed. There are special dyes for foam materials (EVA dyes) that penetrate the structure. However, for the boat floor, this is rarely necessary, because the material comes in a wide range of colors.
Is the smell of the new mat harmful?
The new material can have a specific odor that weathers out in 2-3 days in the fresh air. A quality certified EVA is non-toxic and safe for humans and pets after airing.