The plastic bottom of an inflatable boat is a double-edged stick, on the one hand, it provides rigidity and puncture protection, on the other, it turns into an ice trap for the feet in cold weather and a slippery rink when wet. Mat in the PVC boat himself It's not just a matter of aesthetics, it's a necessity for maintaining health and comfort while fishing or cruising, and the constant contact of the feet with the cold surface quickly leads to freezing, which is critical when fishing in autumn or spring.
Self-manufactured flooring allows you to take into account all the individual specifications of your boat, including the location of cylinders, cans and spinning mounts. Unlike factory models, which are often versatile and do not always fit perfectly into a particular cockpit, homemade is created according to exact patterns, which provides an opportunity to save significant money, since the cost of ready-made EVA rugs or plywood decks in specialized stores can be unreasonably high.
In this article, we'll look at what materials are best for this purpose, how to cut and fasten them so that the coating doesn't slip or absorb water, and you'll learn about the benefits of different types of substrates, and you'll be able to choose the best option for your budget and operating conditions. A well-chosen material will be a reliable thermal insulation between you and cold water.
Flooring requirements for inflatable vessels
Before proceeding with the purchase of materials, you need to clearly formulate technical requirementsThe PVC boat is an aggressive environment: constant moisture, ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes and mechanical stress from shoes with soil or sand. The material must not rot, splash or lose its properties under the influence of sunlight. If the coating begins to absorb water, it will become heavy and a source of unpleasant odor, which will be almost impossible to get rid of.
The second critical parameter is weight: Inflatable boats often have to be carried manually to the water, and each extra kilogram is felt very strongly. Heavy plywood or massive rubber mats can significantly increase the overall weight of equipment, which is especially important for single or low-power models. However, the savings on weight should not come at the expense of thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity The material is a key factor in determining how quickly your feet freeze in cool water.
Also consider the way the mounting is handled. The rug should not be free to ride on the bottom, creating a risk of getting stuck between the coating and the balloon, which can lead to injury or even puncture. At the same time, it should be easy to remove for drying and cleaning from the sand. The ideal option is a tight fit in the shape of the bottom or the use of special fasteners, such as Velcro or belts, which will not damage the PVC fabric.
⚠️ Warning: Never use materials with sharp edges or a rigid structure that can push PVC under load. Any roughness on the underside of the mat will eventually wipe the bottom of the boat, which will depressurize the cylinders.
An important aspect is hygiene: fishing is often accompanied by the cutting of the catch, getting scales, mucus and blood on the floor. The material should be easy to wash with ordinary water and not absorb organic residues, which, when heated in the sun, will emit the smell of rotten fish. Smooth surfaces are preferable to fluffy ones, although the latter are more pleasant tactile.
Materials review: from EVA to plywood
Choosing a mat base is 90 percent of the success of the whole thing. The modern market offers many solutions, each with its pros and cons. EVA foam It's the same material that makes Crox shoes and rugs in the car, lightweight, completely water-free, highly insulated, and pleasant to the touch. EVA is easily cut with a knife, does not rot, and does not require any extra edge treatment.
The traditional solution remains waterproof. plywoodPlywood provides a perfectly flat and hard surface, which is convenient for standing, but it is much heavier than EVA. Moreover, even moisture-resistant plywood can over time layer if the ends are not protected properly. Linoleum, used as the top layer, must be anti-slip, otherwise the risk of slipping when the boat snatch increases many times.
The budget option is rubber mats, for example, from old car mats or special rubberized mats. They are durable and cheap, but they have high thermal conductivity - they will freeze the legs fastest. Rubber can also have a specific smell, especially in hot weather. Tourist foam mats are often used for insulation, but they wear out quickly and can tear against sharp objects.
- 🧊 EVA material: The best balance of weight, heat and price, is easy to wash, does not absorb moisture.
- 🪵 Plywood + coating: maximum stiffness and smoothness, but a high weight and risk of swelling if the coating is damaged.
- 🚗 Car mats: high wear resistance and low price, but cold and can slide.
- 🏕️ Tourist foam: excellent insulation and minimal weight, but low strength and service life.
When choosing the thickness of the material should focus on the size of the boat. For small inflaters with a bottom thickness of 5-7 mm, a too thick mat (more than 10 mm) can be redundant, but for boats with a low pressure inflatable floor (LDPT) or sleigh thickness of 25-40 mm, an additional layer of 5-8 mm will be very useful.
Tools and preparation of the site
You don't need complex industrial equipment to make a quality mat, you need a set of home tools. The main tool to work with EVA or dense rubber will be a sharp construction knife with interchangeable blades. A dull blade will tear the material, leaving ugly and uneven edges, so stock up on a few new ones in advance. Plywood will need an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with a small tooth.
As a measuring tool, a long roulette and a large angle are indispensable. Since the bottom of the boat often has a complex geometry with roundings near the cylinders, it is useful to prepare a flexible ruler or simply a tight cord that can be attached to the sides to take accurate measurements of curvature, you will also need a marker (better washed off or special for marking), scissors and possibly a grinding skin if you work with wood.
Preparing a work site is an important step. You'll need a flat, hard surface that's larger than a boat. A garage floor, a yard asphalt, or a large table in the workshop will be perfect. Don't try to cut material directly on grass or ground -- you won't be able to cut evenly, and you risk damaging the bottom of the mat against rocks or branches. Clean the bottom of the boat in advance of sand and dirt to take accurate measurements.
☑️ Tools for work
If you plan to make a composite mat of several parts (which is often the case for boats longer than 3 meters), think ahead of the docking points. The edges should converge tightly, without gaps into which garbage can be stuffed. The "docking" method is great for EVA, and decorative slats are sometimes used for carpet or rubber, although they can interfere with the boat.
Step-by-step instructions: cutting and manufacturing
The fabrication process begins with creating a precise pattern. Don't rush to cut the main material! Take old wallpaper, packing paper or cheap fabric and spread it out on the floor of the boat. Carefully circle the outline of the bottom, considering all the bends of the cylinders and the position of the seams. If the boat is complex, you can make a template of several pieces by gluing them with tape directly inside the boat, and then take them out and transfer them to the clean material.
Once the paper pattern is ready and checked for size, we go to the opener. Apply the template to the EVA sheet, plywood or rubber and circle the marker. When cutting EVA foam, hold the knife strictly perpendicular to the surface, driving confidently away from yourself. To get a smooth cut at long distances, use the metal ruler as a guide. If you work with plywood, drink with a small margin of 1-2 mm, which then grind.
Pay special attention to the corners and places of adjoining to the cylinders. Here the material must repeat the bending so that there is no void. If a rigid material (plywood) is used, its edges can be slightly rounded or beamed so that they do not rub against PVC when the boat moves. For soft materials (EVA, rubber), you can make small incisions in the corners, so that the material will fall tighter if the shape of the cockpit is very complex.
The Secret of the Perfect EVA Cut
To get a perfectly smooth edge on a thick EVA foam (over 8mm), heat the knife blade. This can be done by simply holding it over the lighter for a few seconds (carefully, don't overheat the handle!). The hot knife melts the foam, sealing the edge and making it glossy and flat like factory products.
If you make a multi-layered mat (like plywood + linoleum), first cut the base, then cut the upper coating with a small inlet (1-2 cm) over it. Wrap the edges of the upper layer on the back of the base and glue them with powerful glue or nail them with a stapler (for wood), carefully hiding the brackets so that they do not scratch the bottom of the boat.
Technology of fastening and fixing of the mat
The easiest, but not the most reliable, way is to lay the mat in size ("in spread"). If the mat is carved exactly in the shape of the bottom, it will hold on to the friction and pressure of the cylinders. However, when you row or move on the motor, it can shift. To improve the grip, the bottom side of the mat can be made rough. If it is EVA, you can make notches with a knife in the form of a mesh; If rubber, you glue strips of anti-slip tape.
A more advanced option - the use of Velcro (Velcro)The soft part of the Velcro sticks to the mat, and the hard (with hooks) to the bottom of the boat. To glue to the PVC fabric of the boat, use only specialized polyurethane adhesive (for example, for boat repairs), as ordinary superglue or shoe glue can dissolve or damage PVC! Apply glue carefully, in small points or stripes, so that in case of dismantling, the coating of the boat is not damaged.
Also popular is belt or sling attachment, where hinges are sewn or glued to the edges of the mat, which are then fixed to the design of the boat (for example, for rings for mounting cans or transom handles), which allows the mat to "breathe" and easily remove for washing, while remaining securely fixed while driving.
| Mounting method | Reliability | Difficulty of installation | Risk to the boat |
|---|---|---|---|
| In the spacing (no attachment) | Low. | Minimum | Missing. |
| Velcro (Velcro) | High. | Medium | Medium (needs special glue) |
| Belts/Stroops | High. | Medium | Low. |
| Double-sided scotch | Medium | Low. | High (glue residue) |
⚠️ Warning: Avoid using metal nails, screws or rigid brackets, the caps of which can protrude outwards. Any metal part that comes into contact with the bottom of the boat under the pressure of your weight will eventually wipe the PVC fabric, leading to a water emergency.
If you use glue to fix, be sure to let it fully polymerize before launching the boat. Drying time can vary from 24 to 72 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Test the strength of the joint by trying to move the mat with your hands with force.
The safest method of fixing is accurate cutting of the "traction" in combination with a non-slip lower surface of the mat, which eliminates the need to glue anything to the boat hull.
Care, drying and storage of coatings
Proper maintenance of the mat will extend its life and preserve the neat appearance of your boat. After every fishing, especially if you fished or just walked on wet grass, the mat should be rinsed with clean water. If you used EVA or linoleum, just wipe them with a wet cloth or pour them from a hose. Foldy coatings (carpet) require more thorough drying, as they can accumulate moisture at the base.
Dry the mat in the shade, straight sunlight, especially when combined with heating from the dark color of the material, can accelerate the degradation of certain types of plastic and rubber. If the mat is composite or multilayered, make sure that moisture does not get between the layers. When stored in winter, it is better to roll up the mat (if the material allows) or leave it flat, avoiding cracks that can turn into cracks in the cold.
Periodically check the bottom of the mat and the bottom of the boat underneath. Sand and small pebbles between the mat and the bottom work like an abrasive. Regularly cleaning the bottom of the boat from debris before laying the mat is the best prevention of mechanical damage. Also watch for mold in the corners if the boat has been wet for a long time.
To remove persistent spots of fish mucus or oil from the EVA mat, use a weak solution of household soap or special products for cleaning PVC products. Avoid aggressive solvents (acetone, gasoline), they can damage the structure of the material.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you use conventional linoleum without a base for a boat mat?
It is not recommended to use thin linoleum without a base, as it has very low thermal insulation and cools quickly. Also, it can be too slippery. If you want to use linoleum, choose options on a foam basis or combine it with a insulation (for example, foam), but be aware of the risk of absorbing moisture with the ends.
What thickness of EVA mat to choose for a boat 3.2 meters long?
The optimal thickness for a boat of this size is 8-10 mm. This will provide sufficient comfort and thermal insulation, not greatly increasing the weight of the equipment. thicker mats (12-15 mm) will be more comfortable, but will take up more space during transportation and may interfere with the installation of cans.
What is the best way to cut EVA foam so that the edges are smooth?
The best way to use a sharp knife is to use a new blade. For the ideal result, the blade can be slightly heated (carefully!), then the cut will melt and seal, becoming smooth. There are special electric knives for the foam, but for one-time work they are not necessary.
Do I need to make holes in the mat to drain water?
The mat itself doesn't need to be filled with holes if it's tightly attached to the bottom. Water should drain into the regular drain holes of the boats. If the mat has holes, it will be stuffed with garbage, scales and sand, which will make cleaning difficult. The main thing is that the mat does not block the drain holes of the boat itself.
Could a rug cause a boat to puncture?
Yes, it can be if it's made of hard material with sharp edges, or if it's hit by sand/rock, and metal attachments are also a risk, so it's important to use soft materials, round corners, and keep the bottom of the boat clean before laying the coating.